2013 honda civic lx cold temperature indicator
10-22-2016
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2013 honda civic lx cold temperature indicator
Because you do not have a real temperature gauge on the dash.
The blue light turns off when the engine coolant temp reaches 127.4*F. (53*C)
You may want to wait until the blue light goes out before you turn on the heater so you do not get a blast of ice cold air from the vents.
The blue light turns off when the engine coolant temp reaches 127.4*F. (53*C)
You may want to wait until the blue light goes out before you turn on the heater so you do not get a blast of ice cold air from the vents.
10-22-2016
#3
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Re: 2013 honda civic lx cold temperature indicator
Because you do not have a real temperature gauge on the dash.
The blue light turns off when the engine coolant temp reaches 127.4*F. (53*C)
You may want to wait until the blue light goes out before you turn on the heater so you do not get a blast of ice cold air from the vents.
The blue light turns off when the engine coolant temp reaches 127.4*F. (53*C)
You may want to wait until the blue light goes out before you turn on the heater so you do not get a blast of ice cold air from the vents.
Thanks again. You are always on the spot.
10-22-2016
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
10-22-2016
#5
Registered!!
Thread Starter
10-22-2016
#7
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2013 honda civic lx cold temperature indicator
Your maint minder probably has not given the #3 service reminder yet. It may or may not at the next 15% interval. IDK. You can go into the IMID maintenance menu and reset area and check your oil life % and see what the next suggested services will be.
I have been changing my own ATF every 10k....just because I can and it's free to me. I've only got 24k on it so far anyway. This car may rust away before 100k at the rate I rack up miles on it.
At work we still recommend ATF every 30k.
The maintenance minder may vary intervals depending on how you drive it.
Buy 3 quarts of DW-1. Drain fluid. How much comes out will depend on how long you let it drain. Measure how much drains out?
I dump some in then check the dipstick.
Dump in 2.5 then check level
Run engine then shut it off and then check level and add as necessary.
If you let it drain long enough I think it will be closer to 3.
I just checked the notebook on my car, I did not write down exactly how much mine took. I gave up trying to remember all this crap at work (I still remember some of the old Mazda stuff I never need anymore LOL), but nobody in our shop has made up a cheat sheet for trans capacities yet.
I have been changing my own ATF every 10k....just because I can and it's free to me. I've only got 24k on it so far anyway. This car may rust away before 100k at the rate I rack up miles on it.
At work we still recommend ATF every 30k.
The maintenance minder may vary intervals depending on how you drive it.
Buy 3 quarts of DW-1. Drain fluid. How much comes out will depend on how long you let it drain. Measure how much drains out?
I dump some in then check the dipstick.
Dump in 2.5 then check level
Run engine then shut it off and then check level and add as necessary.
If you let it drain long enough I think it will be closer to 3.
I just checked the notebook on my car, I did not write down exactly how much mine took. I gave up trying to remember all this crap at work (I still remember some of the old Mazda stuff I never need anymore LOL), but nobody in our shop has made up a cheat sheet for trans capacities yet.
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