11fa5

Does anyone know the ohm resistance specs for the stock injectors?
My mechanic said mine are testing at 10 and it may be high. Usually they are around 5-7 he said.

Thank yoy

jordan1794

Did it have a rough idle for a while, and loss of power?
Not sure where you were planning on going/what the mechanic suggested, but it's incredibly unlikely that all 4 would go bad at the same time...so if all 4 are testing at 10 ohms then the problem most likely lies elsewhere.

From googling I get that fuel injectors usually range rather low, between 3-7, and rather high, between 12 and 17...

wish I could be of more help than that, maybe someone with more technical information will swing by.

ezone

Jordan1794's reasoning here is sound IMO....

I did not find a resistance spec, but I think your mechanic is probably barking up the wrong tree.

11fa5

Hi guys:
Thank you for the response!
My mechanic told me the same thing that all 4 of the injectors going bad at once is rare, but it was the only road to take after he diagnosed the car.

Some background information about the car:

It use to be f/i and I put it back to stock (Yes, the ECU has been reverted back to stock)
There is a new fuel pump and new FPR inside the car. There are also brand new spark plugs and battery.
As of now, the only mods on it is the exhaust and a cold air intake (shouldn't affect starting)
The injectors (stock) was sitting in my garage for a good amount of time.

What the car does:
Fuel reaches the fuel rail
Cranks, but no start
Starts for 1/1.5 seconds if you spray fuel onto the throttle body

What the mechanic did:
Check if any fuses were blown
Check if the spark plug connectors (sorry don't know term im a noob! lol) that you shut the holes with were okay.
Check ohm of injector plugs

I Also want to add that the car had 0 problems starting before the mods were taken out

ezone

Oooh

Should have put this in the first post. Would have been a good clue for me. Resistance check on the injectors is not the problem.......

I used to see this often when doing used (junkyard) engine swaps, the injectors get stuck after the fuel evaporates out, the fuel dried out inside causing them to stick.

----

2 ideas here:
I assume the injectors can be accessed in the car somewhat easily without teardown.....

Someone needs to crank it while another person taps on each injector with a ......screwdriver or wrench or something......If it begins firing as you beat on one injector then move to the next one and repeat until it runs on all 4 cylinders again. If it will run by doing this, this is the easy way.

-----


If that doesn't get it, then unplug the wiring from the injectors, and connect 12v power and ground manually to each injector and see if it will click. If no click, it's stuck.
Do not keep them connected to the battery or you can burn them up, they can't sustain being on for any extended amount of time....and you can flood the intake with gas if you keep an injector open too long once it works.
Apply power, tap tap tap, disconnect power.
I wouldn't keep them powered longer than about 3-5 seconds at a time.

Beat on them until they free up and will click. You could even pull them off the engine to do this if you have to. Once you get them to click they should be ok.


HTH

11fa5

Thank you for the knowledge.

I will try the tapping method tomorrow.

I also want to add that I have tried to start the car with the injectors detached from the intake manifold to see if they would spray.

I'm not sure how a "normal" spray would look like but the amount that was being sprayed looked NOTHING like this video.


So maybe what you were saying about fuel evaporating clogged up the holes were correct? (I need use fuel injector cleans to spray through and tried using a tooth pick to clean it if it makes any difference)


Thanks again and much appreciated

ezone

Video looks good but that looks like it's manually activated, not being run by a computer while cranking the engine.
You are saying yours didn't spray at all?

No, it won't be clogging the holes (it may, but that's a secondary issue), it's got the pintle (like a plunger, it's the moving part inside an injector) stuck inside.
If the pintle can't move, it won't make the click sound.

Basic diagram:



^^Oooh it shows the pintle moving up and down in this pic!

The pintle can get stuck anywhere inside that it contacts gasoline, it may not necessarily be stuck at the tip....and I don't think you can see the actual tip at all on many injectors.


No, that won't help.. Gotta get the pintle unstuck in order to get fuel to flow through the injector first.
This is where the "tapping" has always worked for me, to get the pintle unstuck.

Injector cleaner can't do a darn thing if it can't flow all the way through the injector......and you can damage the injector if you stick things in the holes in the end.
Spray pattern is important, you don't want damaged holes.


YW, hope my ideas work for you

11fa5

Okay so I tried tapping on the injectors today.
I couldn't really tap it on the top because the fuel rail was in the way so I got a wrench and just tapped on top of the fuel rail and on the sides of the injectors.

I noticed that sometimes, the car would "catch" for like 0.25-0.5 seconds like its making that sound where it's about to start, but then it just goes back to cranking. This is with me tapping on the injectors.

I haven't tried your second method yet because I don't quite get it. (sorry I am a big big noob)
But I did order a set of used injectors from a crashed Si on Ebay just now.

ezone

I was hoping your mechanic would understand it and be able to get it running using the ideas.

This might be easier method for you if you did not understand the above.


Just hope the next set of injectors hasn't been laying around long enough to have the fuel evaporate out of them and be stuck too.

11fa5

Understood!
Hoping for the best.

By the way, can you "unstuck" the injectors by banging on them out of the fuel rail or will they only get unstuck while cranking

ezone

In the car or out, cranking or not, is not necessarily relevant.

The injector needs to be actuated (power and ground applied; TRYING to open the squirter) while tapping on the side of it to jar the stuck pintle.

Quickest and simplest way is to let the computer do it, i.e. cranking...During cranking the computer is pulsing the injectors on and off.
¿Comprende?

HTH

11fa5

Put the new injectors on and still same problem.
Here's a video of the new injectors spraying (Does this mean Injectors = Okay, no problem)
http://tinypic.com/r/inh99k/8
Here's a video of the engine catching or firing after spraying some carb cleaner onto the throttle body.
http://tinypic.com/r/qsk0pl/8

ezone

That video was taken using your own car?
So they are squirting fuel while cranking, but it is apparently not enough fuel to run?
It's got real gas in there, right? Not a contaminated fuel problem?

What is the reason you removed the f.i. and are going back to stock?

How was the ecm 'reverted back to stock'? If it's still set up for injectors that flow a lot (using a shortened pulse width), it might not run on the stock injectors now. (Try reinstalling the fat injectors?)

Stock MAP and MAF? Clean MAF?
ECT reading is accurate?


I really don't get into forced induction, I normally only deal with bone stock cars at work.

11fa5

The car was sitting for a good year in the garage and the gasoline turned into a orangish color so what I did was unplug the fuelrail and kept priming fuel out until the gasoline turned as white as it possible could. There is about 2-3 gallons in the gas tank atm.

The clutch gave out and I decided to go back to stock, the car was cranking/starting with no problems when I went back to stock last year.

The MAF (STOCK) may* be dirty? It was sitting in my toolbox for a year just collecting dust. How do you recommend I go about cleaning it?

The MAP is this one:
http://www.hondata.com/4barmap.html

It was set back to stock using a program called flashpro. It basically can make adjustments to the car, but since it was set to the stock map, it is how the car is out of the factory so it is set up to run with the stock 310cc injectors.

ezone

Put the stock MAP sensor back in it

11fa5

lol I went into Flashpro (Tuning program) and checked the 4bar map sensor and it started..
Thank you

11fa5

By the way a question,

I turned the car on for about 20 seconds and off (Had to turn it off, couldn't wheel it out yet because the wheel well wasn't bolted in yet, but basically there was this kind of like burnt smell. Is this normal for a car to have this smell after not turning on for a year?


Thanks!

ezone

YW. It would be nice to see some how flashpro (and others) works first hand once in a while, might give me a better idea of what's possible on them.

I'd expect damn near anything from a car that's been sitting. You never know what's been living under it or crawled in the tailpipe or spun webs all over it. Plus maybe some old fuel smell, maybe oil smell, and if you only ran it 20 seconds then it may smell of raw exhaust as the cat did not get heated up in that short time. IF it has a cat.
Oil and handprints on the exhaust pipes will stink too.

11fa5

Yeah flashpro is awesome it gives you readings from every sensor in your car and lets you tinker with the engine.
Sounds about right. I was just panicking like omg is something on fire lol.