ezone

So, you have no spare time and a grouchy spouse.

You have wrench experience.

Not much with gasoline engine theory?
Not much with electricity or electronics?

Todays episode is "What has been learned, cannot ever be unlearned".
This guy can go to great lengths to make something simple extremely difficult.

SpdySylvrEX

"one finger on nose, one pointing at ezone"
Lots...
Suck, squeeze, bang, blow? with a little spark mixed in there..injectors atomize fuel, which are timed with spark, etc...I have a good idea of it. unless you start talking about "stoich" and that stuff....
Speaking of fuel, what is Lambda, and would the fact that my AFR gauge has a wire for this help me? The AFR gauge has a wire that "sends" a signal for Lambda...
The only thing I really know about electricity is SAV PAA....Series Adds Volts, Parallel Adds Amps...Series is +-, +-...Par ++--....


That about sums me up too....

Well, let's add another problem to the mix. Without going into great lengths, not only do i have the previous problem (no fuel unless 70% throttle) but I can not accelerate above 3500 RPM. If I try to, the car bucks violently....Oil is good...VTEC issue now?

ezone

There's a bit more to it than the 4 cycles.

Stoich is the ideal air/fuel ratio for lowest emissions, 14.71:1 for straight gasoline. This is what the PCM strives to keep the ratio at during most normal driving conditions. 14.7:1 is the ratio that a regular O2 sensor switches at, and the O2 sensor is what the PCM has to use for feedback to control fuel delivery when it is in closed loop.

Lambda: C&P from IATN Lambda calculator page:
..... indicates the balance of air to fuel compared to the stoichometric point, where Lambda = 1.000. As an example, Lambda of 1.010 means there is 1% too much oxygen (1% lean) and 0.990 means there is 1% too little oxygen (1% rich) in the exhaust gas makeup. For gasoline, Lambda x 14.71 is the air/fuel mass ratio – as for gasoline, at the perfect stoichometric point the A/F mass ratio is 14.71.

Stoich for Ethyl Alcohol is around 9:1. Various concentrations of alky in the gas moves stoich around. 10% ethanol blend stoich is 14.13:1. The PCM has to raise fuel trims to compensate, so ST/LT trim numbers raise a little bit.

No idea what the wire is for, RTFM?

SAV, PAA....You know what it takes to make a complete circuit?

You can't accelerate past 3500, even if it is in boost? Does the engine have oil in it? Did it set codes for VTEC?

ezone

There's a bit more to it than the 4 cycles.

Stoich is the ideal air/fuel ratio for lowest emissions, 14.71:1 for straight gasoline. This is what the PCM strives to keep the ratio at during most normal driving conditions. 14.7:1 is the ratio that a regular O2 sensor switches at, and the O2 sensor is what the PCM has to use for feedback to control fuel delivery when it is in closed loop.

Lambda: C&P from IATN Lambda calculator page:
..... indicates the balance of air to fuel compared to the stoichometric point, where Lambda = 1.000. As an example, Lambda of 1.010 means there is 1% too much oxygen (1% lean) and 0.990 means there is 1% too little oxygen (1% rich) in the exhaust gas makeup. For gasoline, Lambda x 14.71 is the air/fuel mass ratio – as for gasoline, at the perfect stoichometric point the A/F mass ratio is 14.71.

Stoich for Ethyl Alcohol is around 9:1. Various concentrations of alky in the gas moves stoich around. 10% ethanol blend stoich is 14.13:1. The PCM has to raise fuel trims to compensate, so ST/LT trim numbers raise a little bit.

No idea what the wire is for, RTFM?

SAV, PAA....You know what it takes to make a complete circuit?

You can't accelerate past 3500, even if it is in boost? Does the engine have oil in it? Did it set codes for VTEC?

ezone

OOOh, double post. Nice. Oops.

SpdySylvrEX

Yes there is oil. That was the first thing I checked

I scanned the codes, again, and now I have a P1106 (is this a show stopper), P0132, and P0505 code. No VTEC codes. We reset the codes and everything came right back.

SpdySylvrEX

currently looking at craigslist...lol

ezone

Makes me wonder if whatever you have installed to alter or modify the MAP reading is screwing with the PCM.
Look below at how the PCM judges the BARO to check it, there's more to it than just cut and dry- good or bad..

Or maybe the PCM finally crapped the bed.
2 ways to tell: Capable scanner to read the BARO voltage (around 2.80v) in the datalist, and/or eliminate the aftermarket stuff.

Have you unhooked all of the aftermarket controls yet?

I still think the PCMs are reliable, but I have been reading of others that have claimed to replace them for various reasons not thoroughly explained.




I found this info...
This is C&P from Honda ISIS:
Applies To: ’98–02 Accords, ’98–03 Civics, ’97–03 CR-Vs, ’00–06 Insights, ’99–04 Odysseys, and ’97–01 Preludes
DTC P1106 (BARO sensor range/performance problem) Before you start troubleshooting, first check for a clogged engine air inlet. Leaves, paper, plastic bags, or a dirty or wet air cleaner element can cause an air restriction, which will cause this DTC to set.
To fix this problem, clear out any debris from the engine air inlet or replace the air cleaner element.



So the PCM must compare BARO value to MAP@WOT, and judge if there is a difference.
Will your scanner display the BARO PID?
Does it match MAP @ KOEO?
They should be exactly the same at KOEO.


General Description
The barometric pressure (BARO) sensor is built into the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) and monitors atmospheric pressure. When the throttle valve is wide open, the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor output is nearly equal to the BARO sensor output. Making use of this characteristic, a malfunction can be detected in the BARO sensor output.
If the throttle position is beyond a value previously stored in the ECM/PCM that is used to detect “wide-open throttle”, and if the difference between the MAP sensor output and the BARO sensor output is equal to or greater than a set value, a malfunction in the BARO sensor output is detected and a DTC is stored.

Malfunction Threshold
The difference between the BARO sensor output and the MAP sensor output is 27 kPa (199 mmHg, 7.9 in.Hg) or more for at least 3 seconds.

SpdySylvrEX

Today was the first day I have been able to look at the car since your last post. I did a little research on the AEM F/IC and it does a lot more than I thought. Apparently, the O2 sensors can be controlled/tricked by the piggy back. But this is where my understanding comes to a complete halt. There are a couple of forum posts on aempower.com that explain how to control everything but I still don't understand it. maybe someone else will read this and be able to help us/me.


I hooked up my laptop to my AEM FIC (piggyback). I wanted to see if the tune that was set on the dyno was still there. thankfully it was.

I am waiting on the admin to allow me access to post on the forums so I can ask some very needed questions.

Scanned the codes, the BARO one was gone (went away without clearing codes) and only the o2 high volt, and 0505 remained. Took it for a test drive and I was able to drive in the low RPMS (without boost).

There were some loose connections between the MAP and the box which talks to it in boost. I am thinking these wires were the reason the 1106 code came up in the first place. However, even after fixing them, I still had the code (which is why I was so worried). But it went away on it's own. Not right after I fixed the wires, but after it sat over night...does that make any sense? I know I have to get it back to stock for you to help me anymore...I am trying to set up the time to do it.

ezone

Yeah, you probably shouldn't monkey with anything unless/until you have some clear understanding and know what you are doing....and how what you do affects other things.


So, hopefully it will all work right again after you solve the original problem(s).
It is not a standalone control unit, it depends on the PCM to operate correctly.

Can you read any of the PCM data with the laptop?
Any clue how much of the PCM data is modified by the piggyback?
Can you see what parameters are being sent to the PCM from the piggy, that have been altered to fool the PCM, and would a real scanner see the same thing from the PCM that is being sent from the piggy?
Some of this is just me wondering how it is designed to work, and if it is still working as designed.



It probably set because the MAP and BARO values did not agree (like stated in the other post about it) at the times the PCM checked them. The code probably went away once the PCM ran its self test for that particular code and didn't find the problem anymore. It only runs its self tests for certain codes at certain times and under certain conditions.

And you now see what I meant about wiring? Poor wiring work can take an awful long time to surface and cause problems. Makes me wonder how much more wiring there is that might be contributing to any of the problems.

Once the electronics are back to stock, you could read data and do some checking.....You might be able to run it with the fat injectors, but I'd expect it to try to flood out or set rich codes...
If you have to run the engine, you will probably need to put the stock injectors back in, and you could drive it around as long as you don't get it into boost.

SpdySylvrEX

10-191 FIC Tuning Tips for 30-1910 080501.pdf

10-1910 instructions for 30-1910 FIC Ver3 080609.pdf

I have attached the 2 manuals I have for this thing. You were curious as to what it could do. I know it can do a lot for the right person. It's a good read when you're on the crapper...lol

SpdySylvrEX

EUREKA!!!! Pg 7 on the install manual says there has to be a resistor added in the signal wire for the o2 sensor. I am pretty sure mine does not have one (hence why I have 2.2v on that signal wire). This kit came with a wire harness already made up for plug and play. Unless they put a resistor in the middle of their wire harness (which doesn't make any sense), then that wire doesn't have one. If my memory serves me correctly, the signal wire for the o2 is white and is A6.

ezone

Yeah, but I thought this O2 high voltage code was new only since the sensor got replaced. If the code wasn't an issue prior to replacing with the Bosch sensor, then it all worked correctly at one time.

So just ohm check that single wire once both ends are unplugged. The test must be done with the resistor out of circuit--meaning nothing attached to its wires but wires. NO control units, other sensors, etc.

Which of the 4 O2 sensor wires is it installed in?

SpdySylvrEX

I just looked at the wiring and there is definitely NOT a resistor in the line. and Yes, A6 is the signal wire for the O2 sensor. I am still waiting to be approved for the AEM Forum so I can start asking questions.

So this is how the wiring is supposed to be set up for the o2 sensor signal wire.


See how the signal wire comes from both the ECU and the FIC?

Could this be why I am seeing 2.2v? If the FIC is sending 1v, and the ECU is sending 1v, then 1+1=2....which is why you would need the resistor in the line to reduce the voltage back to 1...Am I on the right road here? Would it be easier to just let ECU control the O2? or should I get a resistor and solder that baby in there...

Still trying to read the manual but it's like trying to read another language...

Sorry for the confusion but the High voltage was there before the new Bosch sensor was installed. I actually had both codes. (Heater and High voltage)...

SpdySylvrEX

Copy and Paste from the AEM Manual:

O2 Map (See Figure 27.)
At times, such as a track day or race event, you may desire to alter the closed-loop air fuel ratio(AFR) of the factory ECU to achieve better engine performance. This can be done using the O2 functionality of the F/IC. By outputting a different signal, the F/IC can alter the target AFR of the factory ECU. The O2 map “Load Input” can be based on MAP, MAF, TPS, or O2 sensors. The “O2 Map” also has four different operating modes, Fixed, Percent, Offset, and Voltage. The load inputs and modes are selected in the “O2” section of the “Setup” window.
• “Voltage” mode - The F/IC outputs a voltage, which is determined by the corresponding cells in the “O2 Map”. In the “Voltage” mode, for an “O2 Map” cell value of 2.5, the F/IC will output 2.5 volts. In “Voltage” mode, a cell value of 0 makes no change, NOT an output voltage of 0 volts.

The cells for the low idle all show 2v (which means the o2 sensor is seeing 2v). 2v is apparently to high, hence the High Volt code...After reading, It is my understanding that if I lower this number down to one, or maybe a little more, then my CEL should go away and my AFR should come up from 10:1 at idle.
Am I still on track here? Does it make sense at least? I know you are not a tuner guy but this seems pretty cut and dry....
Man I need someone to allow me access to ask questions on that stupid forum....

SpdySylvrEX

Okay, ignore all that crap...as a matter of fact, delete it if you want to. I have just finished reading a thread on the AEMPOWER.com forums and they say to not have that resistor in the line (it was only intended for the 03's "wideband" O2). I think my answers for my problems are in a re-tune of the car. Using the program I have for it, and taking it to a shop that specializes in the AEM F/IC.

ezone

I'll assume you don't have the resistor at this point.....

Had the piggy interrupted the O2 signal wire then maybe, but that's not the way this is wired.
Whatever you measure on the wire at the O2 sensor is what the PCM should show in its datalist.
Note here that merely connecting the voltmeter can change the voltage seen by the PCM, so you need to be able to read both datalist and the voltmeter at the same time.


I browsed several pages of the manual, I would need to see the entire setup to make any more sense out of it.


So it is programmed to feed 2v into the PCM?
That ain't right in my mind.
Yeah, the programming needs some tweaking.

I think the PCM should use the O2 sensor in its natural state as intended (in closed loop), for all situations except roughly 75%+ throttle, and/or boost. You really don't need any extra fuel until you are close to WOT and/or in boost.

Normal O2 should constantly and rapidly fluctuate anywhere between 0 and 1 volt, as long as the PCM has control of fuel in closed loop.
Once in a situation where the engine needs to be richer than the PCM normally is capable of, the O2 should max at 1v no matter how rich it gets, and the piggy takes over fuel enrichment....but I really don't know what has been programmed in the piggy. I know it runs the injectors based on what the PCM wants, but I don't know what else yours is set up to do.

Figure out the clicking main relay yet??

SpdySylvrEX

No, I think it is programmed to "add" voltage to the signal wire "from" the PCM. In other words, the PCM sends "X" amount of voltage, the FIC "adds" more voltage (i.e. piggy backs) the signal wire to the o2 sensor. That is how "I" think it works. (thank goodness I don't get paid to think).

My question to you: How does the PCM "read" the O2 sensor? Does that wire send a signal back and forth? I didn't think electronics worked like that, more like a one way road. Is that what the "ground" wire is for? Since it is grounded through the PCM? Don't hate me, I am just trying to comprehend it with how I think.

I believe it was only intended for the 2003's "wideband" O2. So, no, no resistor.
not, yet. That still hasn't acted up. However, sometimes when I try to start the car, it acts as if the clutch is not pushed in. Test lights, I know, I know...LOL

I am going to look at the wiring diagrams and see if I can figure out how to wire a light up for that. Oy Vay....

Maybe a light on the ignition, and maybe one on the clutch wiring?

ezone

They are wired in parallel according to your diagram. (You see how there is only one wire shown in the diagrams? They still have to share a common ground with the battery.)
The PCM reads whatever it sees on the wire. That will be the highest voltage. Until the O2 comes on line. Unless your piggy has enough amperage to overcome the O2 sensor.

The O2 sensor CREATES its own voltage when it is hot and operating. It is like a tiny battery when it operates. All common systems must share a common ground, whether it is a chassis ground or an internal ground within the PCM, they all have to use it for reference.
(It's basic theory, and I am not a teacher.)
The voltage sent by the PCM on that wire is a BIAS voltage, and is used for diagnostics. Bias is fed through a resistor, so it will show a voltage but there is almost no amperage. The O2 sensor easily overcomes the bias voltage, so there is zero added to the reading when it operates.
Once the O2 is operating, IT pulls that bias voltage DOWN. (Since the O2 creates its own voltage, the PCM would see the same readings even if it didn't apply a bias voltage on that wire.)

Back to work....alignment on a van with PAX tires....Grrrr.

SpdySylvrEX

heat from the exhaust, equals voltage? The more heat, the more voltage?
This would explain the reason for the resistor. "altering" "dropping" the O2 signal to the PCM....
This resistor is only needed if I wanted to modify the O2 signal. I wonder what would happen if I disconnect the FIC wire from the PCM wire. I bet it runs stoich all the time, and I don't have much power. But if I could change the voltage for when the O2 was setting the code, or if I just let the PCM control everything until I want to (in boost) it should work fine for me.

well, the full throttle driving only is back. Gonna try changing the plugs, it has worked in the past. I'm thinking the ones I had in there are not the right ones. They are out of an outboard Honda (the same motor as the Honda Odyssey)

I still have rpm's above 3400....Since I hooked up my laptop to the FIC the AFR's were better. In cruise it was in the 14-15 range and boost was in the 12's (just like it was tuned) however, idle was 10, but the rpm's were much lower than it has been in the past...

One guy I talked to, and many of the other turbo Honda guys, recommend the NGK spark plugs...I may go get some of those, I mean $8 for the set ain't bad...

Not really sure what else to write about....Kind of burned out

ezone

heat from the exhaust, equals voltage? The more heat, the more voltage?

No, not at all. It takes heat to get it operating, but heat is not what it senses. It senses Oxygen content in the exhaust stream, compares it to an outside air sample (fresh air) and the differential is output as a voltage.

Once it is hot and working, you could unplug the sensor, connect a voltmeter to it, and read a voltage (if the exhaust is in a rich state).



This would explain the reason for the resistor. "altering" "dropping" the O2 signal to the PCM....
No, the way it is wired to the PCM, it would override the real O2 signal.

The resistor was for use with a wide band sensor, right? I think they made the piggy to be capable of working with several types.
There are also LAF and AFR sensors that are used for the same purposes on different engines, and the PCM has different programming for each.

A wide band sensor (or LAF or AFR) operates differently from a regular O2 sensor, but its purpose is basically the same. It can sense a far greater range of fuel mixtures than a regular O2 sensor can.


This resistor is only needed if I wanted to modify the O2 signal. I wonder what would happen if I disconnect the FIC wire from the PCM wire.
I bet it runs stoich all the time,
I think it SHOULD run at stoich until it is near WOT and/or boost happens. THEN it needs to be far richer than stoich.


and I don't have much power.

Would have the same power as a non-turbo until it spools up, unless you put in lower compression pistons. (depending on the programming of the piggy). Once the turbo makes boost, you will damage something if it doesn't have enough fuel.


But if I could change the voltage for when the O2 was setting the code, or if I just let the PCM control everything until I want to (in boost) it should work fine for me.

That's the way I would do it, but the piggy still has to run the fat injectors the entire time.


well, the full throttle driving only is back. Gonna try changing the plugs, it has worked in the past. I'm thinking the ones I had in there are not the right ones. They are out of an outboard Honda (the same motor as the Honda Odyssey) So fouling plugs from running way too rich is what it sounds like.


I still have rpm's above 3400....Since I hooked up my laptop to the FIC the AFR's were better. In cruise it was in the 14-15 range and boost was in the 12's (just like it was tuned)

Sounds gooder


however, idle was 10, Sounds bad


but the rpm's were much lower than it has been in the past... Could be way too low and causing low vacuum, and the PCM sees a high MAP voltage and adds fuel for a load that isn't there. Just a guess.

One guy I talked to, and many of the other turbo Honda guys, recommend the NGK spark plugs...I may go get some of those, I mean $8 for the set ain't bad... NGK is proper for the stock app and works very reliably, but for a turbo app I may close the gap just a little bit, maybe down to .030-.035" Would take some experimenting.

Not really sure what else to write about....Kind of burned out
LOL

SpdySylvrEX

just an update for you (in case you care).
Since the plug change, I am still having the same issues with the idle and driving is a real pain. When I start the car in the morning, it idles anywhere from 850-1200 for a few minutes, then starts the surging idle. After a few minutes of this, I guess when the temp gets warm, it will settle out at 1500 and stay there. If while it is surging I unplug the IACV, it will sit at 1500 and then start surging again when I plug it back in.
If I stay between 20-30MPH, like trying to leave my neighborhood, the car just bucks extremely hard. I have to just take my foot off the clutch (no gas) and let the car run at 1500 rpm. I can go, no throttle, up to 3rd gear and will do 15-20MPH. I don't speculate the throttle adjustment because the car idles normal on occasion.
Also, after driving, when I come to a stop light or something, the car just idles at 1500...I have speculation to believe that a bottle of fuel cleaner helps with this issue if i use one at fill up.

This is one of those issues that is really hard to explain in typing.

ezone

I wonder what the TPS reads in the PCM datalist when it does this, it sounds like the 2000-1200 fuel cut @ closed throttle voltage. (CTP should be .49v and I don't know how much leeway there is in the PCM programming.) Does the piggy modify that too?

SpdySylvrEX

will get a scanner and fin out...

SpdySylvrEX

so, apparently, a bottle of gum out at fill up does "help" with the rough driving. The surge is still there (after warmed up), but the 1500 RPM, and cutting out feeling in cruise is not. The car still idles high when cold, and surges when warm. I am going to try to put the stock injectors back in and unplug the FIC this weekend...just to see what happens...

*roll the dice*

ezone

Will be interesting to hear about.

SpdySylvrEX

So interesting find yesterday morning. I was just simply curious and decided to see what would happen if I actually made a vac leak. I reset the ecu, and started the car and let it warm up. tried to adjust the throttle and the rpm's stayed the same (1300-1500). I then disconnected my boost gauge and the rpm's dropped to 750ish. (steady) If i put my finger over the hose the rpms went back to 1300-1500 range...

Also if I unplugged the IACV the rpms would just sit at 1500, (which is what it does at stop lights and such).

With the intake pipe off, I can hear the IACV trying to open and close at idle, is it closing and opening all the way? I don't know. Do you know what the voltages might be for the IACV open/closed? my manual doesn't say anything about that. I also put my finger over the hole for the IACV and the car still ran, very low rpm, but it ran, I am pretty sure I did this with the idle screw set at what it is supposed to be. so, maybe air was still getting past the throttle plate. Since adjusting the idle screw did nothing, there is no way to tell where I should set the screw at before trying this test again.

excuse my next rant, but I am feeling I need a brain dump:
okay, my blow off valve (BOV) is adjustable. if i turn the set screw one way, i can feel air coming out of the horn of the BOV. if I tighten it, it goes away. so this must have something to do with the idle right?

ezone

Where is the BOV located----between the turbo and the TB? Leakage shouldn't affect the idle.

If the BOV was attached to manifold vacuum, then it would be a problem.

Question is: Which control unit is operating the IAC valve?

SpdySylvrEX

I believe the IAC is controlled by the ECU alone...
The following is just more brain dump, but please, critique...
Some food for thought:
I have said many times that the car was tuned with a vac leak. with a vac leak, at idle there is more air coming into the engine. in boost, there would be less. right? so the MAP sensor was reading "X" amount of air. Then telling the FIC what it is reading. The FIC was also reading "X" amount of air since it also reads vac/boost via a vac hose connected to the Intake mani....

During the initial setup the FIC has to be calibrated to the car. Part of the cal is letting the car run at certain RPM's. During this, I am thinking that the FIC is setting it's "load" values. so with a vac leak, load would be different than it would without one, right? Since the FIC uses "load" as a main point of reference for tuning settings, this is why I believe that the vac leak at the initial tune was so detrimental.

Now that the vac leak is fixed, the MAP sensor and FIC are reading "Y" amount of vacuum. (less air)

"Leakage" may not effect idle, but what about to much air? if the "extra" air that is coming from the turbo, that air has to go somewhere...if the BOV is not set properly, then air is not escaping and therefore being forced into IAC, right? but then why does the IAC have an issue with idle when the charge air piping is not attached? Throttle plate allowing air through? Bad IACV?

Do you have any test ideas for the IACV? Do you know any tests for vac leaks? besides the throttle body cleaner...my buddy has mentioned a "smoke machine" that he has used for doing a vac leak test. but I doubt that you can get one of these as a tool rental...

ok, i'm done...for now

ezone

I have said many times that the car was tuned with a vac leak. with a vac leak, at idle there is more air coming into the engine.

Only for a given amount of throttle opening.

Honda uses "speed-density", and the MAP sensor is the main load detection device. As a vacuum leak is created, the MAP picks up the change in vacuum and compensates by adding fuel.
RPM raises because of the vacuum leak, and the engine runs fine because the PCM is adding fuel.
SO a vacuum leak doesn't really make the engine run lean (unless it has a leak very near a port/injector that would effectively lean a single cylinder).

This will continue until the RPM reaches 2000 with TPS at closed position voltage, then it shuts off fuel until RPM is down to 1200, then it turns fuel back on. This cycle repeats.

The turbo and BOV should have zero influence on all of this. I couldn't guess if the piggyback has any control over this though.




in boost, there would be less. right?
Any leakage should reduce available boost, or at least efficiency.



so the MAP sensor was reading "X" amount of air. Then telling the FIC what it is reading. The FIC was also reading "X" amount of air since it also reads vac/boost via a vac hose connected to the Intake mani....

During the initial setup the FIC has to be calibrated to the car. Part of the cal is letting the car run at certain RPM's. During this, I am thinking that the FIC is setting it's "load" values. so with a vac leak, load would be different than it would without one, right? Since the FIC uses "load" as a main point of reference for tuning settings, this is why I believe that the vac leak at the initial tune was so detrimental.

Now that the vac leak is fixed, the MAP sensor and FIC are reading "Y" amount of vacuum. (less air)

Except........um, nevermind. Depends on a few more things, and I really don't know how it was set up in the first place.

Garbage in, garbage out.
Now it was built around garbage, what do you get?
Sounds like it needs done over after all the problems are corrected.




"Leakage" may not effect idle, but what about to much air? if the "extra" air that is coming from the turbo, that air has to go somewhere...if the BOV is not set properly, then air is not escaping and therefore being forced into IAC, right?

No. The turbo is only a fan, and is not a positive-displacement pump. At idle it is like only a gentle breeze blowing into the throttle body.

BOV shouldn't have any bearing on the idle, leaking or otherwise.




but then why does the IAC have an issue with idle when the charge air piping is not attached? Throttle plate allowing air through? Bad IACV?

It has the same problem both with and without the pipes attached, right? It's a control problem, not a turbo problem.




Do you have any test ideas for the IACV?

You corked off the IAC port with your finger and the idle came waaaay down, correct?
You have a control problem.
The IAC isn't being properly controlled for SOME reason.

If/when equipped: You would have to study the passages for the IAB screw to see if it shares the same passage as the IAC valve. Usually you start at about one turn out from "zero" (bottomed out) and adjust from there. A PGM scanner is used to set do the procedure correctly, if it ever really needs it. Or experiment, just note the starting point so it can be put back later on.




Do you know any tests for vac leaks? besides the throttle body cleaner...my buddy has mentioned a "smoke machine" that he has used for doing a vac leak test.

That really only works for external leaks, like vacuum hoses and gaskets.

It won't work for an internal leak. A stuck IAC, for example, is an internal leak.



but I doubt that you can get one of these as a tool rental...

Build it.
Attach a big cheap stogie to a hose, shotgun it into the intake manifold thru a vacuum port. Install it into a gallon jug so you don't have to manually shotgun it.
Or just blow mouthfulls of smoke into a vacuum hose.

BTW I'm now at somewhere between day 3 and batshit crazy with nicotine withdrawls. Might be day 4 too, I can't tell anymore. I have 2 real cigs left and the electronic cig stuff, and I got sick on monday and figured this was the time to really try.