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I got a 96 EJ8, running a D16Y8. Just a couple days ago I noticed even when the gas was pressed all the way down, the car would go, kinda start slowing and bog out as if something was blocking or holding it back from accelerating, then after a few seconds it would bounce back and keep going. Could this have anything to do with a clogged fuel filter, bad tank of gas, letting the gas run too low, or added fuel injector cleaner? Also since this has been happening the idle has been acting up. It'll stay between 900-1000rpms, then at a dead stop (sometimes) it will slowly move down to where the car almost turns off then bounces back up to a normal idle. Don't know whats going on here. Any help is appreciated!!!!

 
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Have you checked you plugs recently? Any recent tune ups (distrib cap rotor wires, plugs) you might be due.

 
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Or, a mal-adjusted TPS.

 
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just swapped out the plugs yesterday. sanded down the points on the distributor cap, and planning on getting some NGK spark plug wires today. Already swapped the fuel filter and it made a difference but once in awhile still does that lag. Also the idle is still dropping then jumping back up. It will idle perfect for awhile then sometimes itll jus keep dropping to like 100rpms then jump back up to 1000. especially when theAC is on.

and where is the TPS located? so it might be bad?

 
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well there is a big difference between idle stall (rpm drops low and then recovers) and idle fluctuation (rpm goes up and down randomly). if your idle is just dropping low and then coming back to a normal level, its prolly an idle air valve problem (IAC). if rpm jumps around from 500-2000 rpms back and forth, then its a tps issue. i would clean the idle valve first, which is the small piece on the throttle body with two coolant lines feeding it. take the radiator cap off first to depressurize the cooling system, then remove the valve and clean with carb spray cleaner.

 
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yeah its not idle fluctuation its idle stall. and can u be more specific where that valve is? pics?

 
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its the piece with two coolant hoses. you will know when you try to remove em cause coolant will come out. if nothing comes out, its a vacuum line and you have the wrong sensor. its the lower left thing in the pic #9.

 
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its the one right behind the throttle body right? i took it off and theres 2 holes and one has a screen right? i didnt take the lines running to it off tho. ended up i didnt have carb cleaner lol. but i just threw some fuel injector cleaner that also cleans the intake valve when i filled up today. as of right now seems to be ok. guess im going to just have to wait and see. thanks for the pic tho man

 
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yeah try to spray carb cleaner in the ports. it is an air port so fuel additives will not reach there. you may also want to replace the screen gasket if the old one is flat and not sealing.

this is what my 01-05 iac valve looks like after cleaning.

 
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so spray it on the valve or into the ports on the throttle body? and there should only be one screen gasket right? and where would i buy it at?

 
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hello all. i'm experiencing the same issues with my d16y8 as well. After cleaning the idle valve, i've adjusted the idle using the RPM reading from my generic scanner. i did notice though, that my TPS is at 9.4% with the throttle plate closed. i disconnected the TPS and i got 0%. Is there a way to adjust the TPS, or i'll need to replace the throttle body along with it as stated in my Haynes repair manual? Would an ECU reset help at all? if so, how is an ECU reset done?

 
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you can get the gasket (#10) from honda, but only if its not sealing right. you want to spray mainly into the iac valve ports, where most of the buildup is. you can spray the throttle body side too, but its better if you remove it first.

the tps is hard to adjust and for many people its easier to just swap out the whole throttle body with a good used one for usually $50 on ebay. eliminates all the voltage calibration required for fixing the old tps, which usually is near impossible since the sensor is riveted to the throttle body and not movable unless you tap new screw holes. ecu reset will not help, thats only for when you install a new throttle body to correctly set the idle speed. and its done by warming up the motor, turning it off, removing battery terminal, reconnecting, starting car, and letting it idle for 10 mins without using any accessories or pressing gas. then turn off, then back on and go for a normal drive.

 
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i had the same problem on my 2000 ex and i finnally found it had an extremely small pin hole in the wires and that was causing all of my problems, id check into that first cause its cheap and easy to get too.

 
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thanks for the info gearbox. i'll have to shop around for a new throttle body. the surge is now more evident during cold starts and it revs up about 4-5 times then it settles at about 800 rpms. i also checked the end stop of the throttle plate disc (where the cable attaches) and its fully closed.

good point on that wire project sleeper. i did notice a slight kink on one of the wires for the tps connector. i'll have to look into that and see if it's anything serious.

 
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thanks to all for the info! especially gearbox! let you know how it goes!