nucivicowner

Hi gang. My daughter's 01' civic ex, 95,000 miles. It was time for new timing belt. Went to local Honda dealer,,,,$525.00 for new timing belt, water pump, and drive belts. Not a bad price. The dealer showed me the prices of all the parts seperate from the labor. I thought i could do better on line finding Honda parts. I did. Timing belt, Valve cover gasket, water pump with gasket, timing belt tensioner, camshaft oil seal, 1 gallon of Honda coolant plus 2nd day shipping for $202.00. I figured I was saving $300.00 and getting more parts for less $$$$...I didn't mind doing the work. Also I was planning to do valve clearance adjustment..... Started last Saturday morning, got everything completed by that same late afternoon. No major surprises,,, Not much room in that engine compartment to work in. Put the key in the ignition and stared her up.....not good. Rough rough idle, check engine light came on and max rpm was 3,000 revs,,,,,,,what the hell did i do????....I knew i was right with the timing marks,,,I felt like maybe the ECU crapped out after not having electrical power on for so long??? I didn't know for sure but i was pissed and not in the mood to tear it back down...so i said screw it,,,call the tow service Monday, get it to the dealer and they will dignose it. I figured I did all the grunt work and now some kid technician was going to do a scann/diagnostic on it and push some reset button,,,then charge me $100.00 to $150.00, No big deal I was still ahead..Sunday morning i was 10 seconds from going to local NAPA store and picking up cam position sensor and crank position sensor and replacing them. But i talked myself out of it,,,,, So Monday morning call the dealer to come pick er up. They call me back 2 hours later with a TDC code and some other mumbo jumbo,,, I said get it fixed,,,,trouble was caused by a bent tab on the camshaft position sensor. I must have bent it when i snapped the connector back into place after installing the timing belt covers. $276 for dignostics and labor, $76.00 for sensor, $70.00 for tow service and the rest is taxes and enviromental fee stuff.....I should have back tracked my install and checked that stuff myself. I could have had that sensor removed and checked out with a visual inspection in about 30 minutes. It runs great and i got rid of the little bit of lifter tapping when i did a valve adjustment.... Sooooo be patient and follow your gutt instincts when you tackle these projects. If anyone has any questions on this project i would be glad to answer them,,,

Alpha 5

iTrader: (8)

If you dont mind a quick DIY would be greatly appreciated.

DsevenEm2

iTrader: (6)

AGREED. Would you mind? Did you use a service manual? Please list the tools you used and any suprises you ran into. I have some rep availabe lol At least it wasnt that big of a mistake you did.. you could have done something stupid..really stupid.

Nighthawk7thGen

Yeah like me...

ignoring a bent lower control arm for about 4 months until it snapped on me doing 75 on the interstate. Broken lower control arm, axel shaft, sway bar link and light body damage from the tire going thru the front bumper.

Cost: $260 to fix DIY
Could have cost: My Life (missed the tractor trailer by 3 feet)

Note: Always Always Always make sure you're driving a safe, non-half-assed Civic. Please! Preventitive maintenece is the KEY!!!

TRIZ

iTrader: (14)

Whoa, good post.

Yeah a step by step walkthrough on how to do this would be pretty dope! I love reading new DIY's- ps, they get u lots of rep too.

Nates02EX

iTrader: (2)

Yea how hard is it to change a timing belt on the D17's? I'm nearing 85k so a new one is in order sometime soon, when do most people have them changed out?

Alpha 5

iTrader: (8)

I am going to be changing mine between 90 and 100k.

I am currently just over 75k so it aint too soon but still on my mind.

ultimatetuner10

iTrader: (5)

Mine only got me one

nucivicowner

I used a Haynes Repair manual,, pretty simple. Just follow the instructions. Like all repairs or replacing parts, the next time you do it you can probably do it in half the time it took you the first time. If you don't have an impact wrench for the crank pully bolt, just use a 1/2" drive pull handle with two good quality 10", 1/2" drive extensions. After you jack up the drivers side of the car remove the drivers side front tire. Place a jack stand under the frame for safety. Now you must put the pull handle with the extensions and a 19mm impact socket on the bolt head. Make sure the pull handle and extensions are perpindicular to the face of the crank pully. Set another jack stand (for support) under the extensions, opposite of the pully bolt, where the extensions are connected to the pull handle. This will allow you to use your foot to apply the needed torque to brake the bolt loose. MAKE SURE THE EXTENSION AND SOCKET IS IN ALIGNMENT WITH THE BOLT. Also you will need a chain wrench to place around the crank pully to keep the crank from turning. How to use the chain wrench is spelled out in the manual but it shows a chain wrench around the biggest diameter part of the pully. That is a long chain wrench. You may not find one that long. You can use a shorter chain wrench on the smaller diameter (front) portion of the crank pulley. The portion that drives your power steering pump. Just make sure you use a piece of scrap drive belt under the chain wrench to keep from damaging your grooves on the pully. I had to actually almost jump on the wrench to get the bolt loose...first time i thought i would twist the dang extensions to failure...but they will hold. The bolt made a cracking noise 2 times then broke loose...Don't freak out when you hear that. I thought i split the socket. For sure though go get a 19mm impact socket. It is harder steel and six sided. If you use a regular socket and it splits or spins on the bolt head, you are screwed. The crank bolt is (regular) right hand threads, which means looking at it, to loosen it, it must turn counterclock wise...Please do not use heat,,,you will melt your front crank main seal...

matthewinaz

Ok, I have the chilton manual and the haynes manual. I was going to do my timing chain on my 2001 ex in about 1 week.


Also I got an impact wrench...I'm not going to play around with the bolt and just get it done..

Hey, can you tell me why I would have to remove the valve cover if I'm not going to adjust anything in there?

Thanks

matthewinaz

Also if I may add on to my last question.

If the "UP" is to the top, wouldn't that mean that cylinder #1 is at TPC?


I also read if you have a cylinder compression tester and use it on cylinder #1. Once it starts to register compression the "UP" should be close to the top..

What you think??

Thanks

nucivicowner

The timing belt cover is in two parts...an upper half and a lower half.....the valve cover has a lip that covers the upper half timing belt cover...Oh yeah,,,its not a timing chain..its a timing belt.
Since you are already going to have to remove the valve cover,,,take the time to check and adjust each valve.. If your in spec leave them alone..

nucivicowner

Just like the manual says,,,if the "UP" is at the top of the cam pully you are at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. Also look closely on the camshaft (back) side of the pully,,you will see 2 marks/lines across from each other. These lines should be in line with the top of the deck of the head,,,(where the valve cover sits when it is in place). There should be a picture in the manual for reference.

matthewinaz

Hey. Thanks!

That explains it. There is a lip on the cover so it has to be removed. I did go to the dealer and picked up the gasket for the cover and I'm still waiting for the parts from majestic Honda. They have great prices. Also picked up Honda coolant fluid and taking back the Prestone coolant because of what I read. I'm going to hopefully do this next Friday. While I'm at it I'm going to replace the front struts (rear already done). Wish me luck!

MBison

iTrader: (16)

beautiful lesson learned post. i hope u'll have more luck from now on.

yelkceb

where did you order the stuff from?

matthewinaz

I ordered from myjestic honda. They are an actual honda dealer and the package came perfect.

here is the link

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/

matthewinaz

Ok

I started working on changing my timing belt. My civic has about 120,000 miles on it and i bought it used. I started with neg. battery, remove spark plugs and all the bolts for the valve cover, undone the power steering bolts and set it aside, loosened the alternator bolts and took that belt off, removed the valve cover, put a jack under the oil pan, loosened up the engine mount, put a chair wrench around the lower pulley (protected it with a piece of the power steering belt) tried for about 5 minutes to remove the crank shaft bolt by hand and couldn't. I was expecting that. The sun was going down so I was almost out of light. So I drained the coolant and called it quites for the day. It took me 2 1/2 hours to get this far.

I did break the rubber boot for the engine mount. I had to go to the dealer and buy another one! ouch.... 125.00 out the door. They say it is very common for the boot to break. Oh well.. you learn.


Tomorrow I'll finish the job. I'm getting out the air compressor with the 650 foot pounds of torque air wrench!

I'll letcha know what happens!

bomerman19

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't use a chain wrench but that is just me i would be afraid of damaging the crank pulley

If you don't have a Crank pulley holder then pull the starter and stick a big screw driver in the flywheel to keep the crank from turning it's an old trick that has been used in engine building for years

matthewinaz

Ok!!! It's all done! Started it up and almost perfect. I hear a little bit of a low hum/rubbing noise. I think it's coming from my power steering pump. I'll adjust the new belt I put on that one and see if that takes care of it.

Anyone have any questions?

I protected the crankshaft pulley with a piece of one of my belts that I was going to replace anyhow. I cut it to size. Held it in place with a piece of tape so it would stay on until I got the chair wrench around it and tight.

LT2004ever

iTrader: (2)

just hit 100k and im about to get a new one.... all i have to do now is wait for this holiday paycheck and im in business!!

reddawnman

Gratuitous plug... I did a DIY for the timing belt and coolant flush, with pics.

It is stickied in the 7th gen > maintenance section... HERE

hope everyone finds it helpful.

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

why did you through the whole post have this angle against the dealer that they are there to lie to you and that theyre just young punk kids, your the one with the punky attitude towards them it seems and your the one that messed the car up not them..... next time shell out some money and dont worry

matthewinaz

Hey don't feel so bad I broke a motor mount. The top nut wouldn't loosen and I put to much pressure on it and the internal part came undone and it tore the boot. Lesson learned. I did

1)timing belt
2)power steering belt
3)water pump (of course radiator flush)
4)A/C belt
5)timing belt tensioner
6)valve adjustment
7)Valve cover gasket
9)spark plugs
10)transaxle fluid (5 speed)
11)oil change and filter
12)motor mount
13)struts-front and rear
14)also new set of tires (discount tire) alignment also.

I'm not sure how much I saved but I enjoyed the work. Yes I could of saved $100.00 if I didn't break the motor mount and I bought about $50.00 in tools. All and all I'm happy!

Next I need to flush the brake lines and the hydraulic fluid in the clutch system. After that I should be all set.

d17acivic

Trust me you saved plenty, most of the **** heads at the dealership don't know more than the average do it yourselfer. at least by doing it yourself you are insuring it is done right

acrollet

I just replaced my timing belt on new year's day - coldest day of the week as it turned out...

It wasn't bad, just took a long time - 12 hours for me, counting going out for a chain wrench - I put it around the smaller pully like someone else said. I've done a lot of work on my own cars, but never owned a Honda before. I used the instructions in the Chilton, they're really pretty decent. That nut on the crank pulley is on TIGHT - I had to push as hard as I can with my feet braced, using a 2 ft. breaker bar. Borrowed that from autozone, keep that in mind if you don't own the bigger tools...

Wish I had adjusted the valves while I had the cover off

matthewinaz

Well congrats on replacing the belt. Yah, that nut is a pain. You can go back and do your valves. I did my valves a few days later. It was the 1st time for me and it took me two attempts to get it right. It seemed like I use the smallest gauge for each. .007 for the intake and .009 for exhaust. When I slid the gauge out it's suppose to be pretty snug and not like a slight drag. Just snug. It sounds so much quieter and runs smooth.

Only suggestion is that after you think you have the valves perfect go ahead and rotate the engine by the crank pully nut about 5 times and check all of the valves again. I don't know why but the #4 intake valves where so loose. Not sure why. It took me about 2 yours to take the cover off and adjust everything and put it back together.

Wolfgang5884

iTrader: (3)

Wow, some great info. I'll keep that in mind when I do my timing belt.

reddawnman

Absolutely. When adjusting valve clearance, I usually follow the following "****-retentive" procedure (Originally posted in the valve clearance too tight thread):

reddawnman's suggested procedure:

1: Loosen adjuster nut, adjust with "desired" gauge so it drags. It should take a bit of force to get the feeler out, but not so much that you need to use your whole arm strength. Tighten adjuster nut while holding the screw steady

2: Get the next thinner gauge and put it in - should have play and should take less force to move.

3: Get the next thicker gauge - should *not* be able to insert it at all.

4: Torque the adjuster nuts to the desired specs, and *Re-Inspect* using your desired feeler, the next thicker and the next thinner gauge. Again, if you can insert the next bigger gauge, you need to start over as the torquing can mess up the adjustment (generally makes the clearance a touch looser). if the next thinner gauge is really really hard to insert, you might also be too tight.

I can't stress enough the importance of taking some time to reinspect the clearances after you torque the bolts to 13 lb/ft (14 lb/ft for EX). The torquing tends to mess with the adjustment, and you don't want to have to wait another day for the engine to cool down after you've put the valve cover back together... Do it right the first time :-)

az's suggestion of turning the engine a couple times and re-inspecting is probably a good one, but I don't see why if you've torqued the adjustment nuts down correctly and verified you are still in spec it would go out of spec just with an engine turn - if that were the case the adjustment would go out a lot every time the engine ran. More likely that the torquing down process is messing up the adjustment, hence checking the specs after you torque to be sure you are correct.

Misbah

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