Thegtr

help

Hey guys, I'm new here and i have a few questions, I'm kinda lost as to what is the problem with the car at this point. 2007 civic hybrid.

It starts running rough and shuts off, throws a bunch of sensors codes, i replaced a few of them. The latest one was the map sensor and i replaced it today and stayed the same weird idle and super rich couldn't even move it kept stalling , i put the old map sensor back in and it magically fixed it self. Bottom line is that the car is throwing codes left and right at one point but then out of no where it would fix it self and run like new. My friend messed up and put 5w30 instead of 0w20 but i don't think that would make the car act like that, I'm actually thinking the ecu or pcm idk how you guys call it, might be faulty.

Hopefully you guys can point me in the right direction to get this fix the right way. The car has about 170k miles and runs like knew when it wants.

ezone

List all of the codes in standard OBD2 format...and freeze frame data if you can get it.

List all of them.....
and tell us where you obtained the parts.


That can kill some MPG but shouldn't make it run bad.

It's (almost) NEVER the PCM.

Thegtr

Maybe the main relay not sending enough power to the ecu.

I will try to get what you asked today or tomorrow

Thegtr

Keep in mind that these codes will disappear sometimes and the. Come back.

ezone

P0108 will make it run bad, the other won't. P0420 is cat efficiency.

And you say this is an intermittent issue....

If you have it running and wiggle the wires for the MAP sensor, will it act up or change the way it's running?
Got a scanner that can display live engine data? (while wiggling wires, you could watch the MAP value on a scanner if you have one)

If you can make it run bad by wiggling the wires there, google 'pin drag test', figure out if there is a terminal problem inside the connector

Thegtr

map sensor was replaced, and this car had music system on and I check and saw few wires spliced up. I will remove all those wires and reattach them to see if that fixes it. and tomorrow I will try what you said and follow up with you. thanks for the help

Thegtr

Hey man i wiggled it and nothing happened. One thing i did come accross today while doing the valve adjustment was that my friend had recently changed the spark plugs, he only replaced the 4 front ones because he didnt know these 1.3l engines use two per cylinder and he also used cheap autolite plugs which looked just as bad the old ones left on the rear which i believe are the oem denso plugs with 170k miles on them. I ordered the ngk iridium equivalent of oem and hope this sorts out the problem.

ezone

Ok, but plugs shouldn't cause a MAP circuit code.

mac25

It would probably help to run the vehicle as close to stock as possible.

If it was my car I would replace the plugs with OEM or aftermarket meant for your engine and use 0w20.

Also ask your friend if he has changed anything else, or, done any "maintenance" him self, because it sounds like he doesn't know exactly what he is doing.

Ask him if he did any intake cleaning systems, or things which could contact the MAP sensor/ intake system.

mac25

Also for the MAP sensor

you can directly check continuity using a multimeter



-Pin 3 on your MAP sensor should hook up the ecu at terminal c14
-Pin 2 should hook up to c11.

Thegtr

Update

I replaced the plugs with ngk oem equivalent, and adjusted the valves-to my surprise the map sensor code is gone and then mil came back on for the catalytic converter, i drove it for the day and floored it a few times and its threw codes for random misfire and misfire on cylinders 2 and 3. I park it for the day and turned it on today and everything is gone and the car is working normally with no misfires at all which leads me to believe the battery in the engine bay might be faulty and it looks to be an oem battery so it might have never been replaced, i will go to advance auto today to get it test out.

Thegtr

I do know that at this point it could be a clogged/bad injector, coilpacks related or fuel pump/filter related issue, but i know a bad battery can cause a misfire too and the one on the car looks old and i was told this car sat for a bit, i dont know how long though.

ezone

Varnished fuel can cause all sorts of nifty problems.

Thegtr

Update, i think i found what was the problem, misfires are now gone and the car is rrunning better than ever. The egr system was super clogged, it took me a while to clean it and a whole bottle of carburetor cleaner. Hopefully this is the end of it.

Thegtr

Guys im back at it again, so today its been raining all day and i tried to move the car and the D was flashing and threw code p0108, it didnt have any power and i had to move the car so i had to push it. Mind you i drove the car yesterday for about 250 miles without any problem. Anyone in CT i could bring it to, because it seems to be an obvious electrical problem.

ezone

You might try using a spray bottle of water to carefully and slowly wet wiring in the engine compartment, maybe you can narrow down an area that way

Thegtr

as of now I'm just trying to sell the car as is, the harness is the culprit I was able to replicate the problem by wiggling the harness that's around the ECU. I took part of it apart and couldn't find any visible damage while at it I managed to damage it some more have no idea how but now the car just clicks and the accessories inside aren't working and the car won't turn on at all now. I might replace the whole engine harness if I don't sell the car.

ezone

Oh damn...That sounds .....pleasant.