Should I get a torque wrench?
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So I put my Neuspeed strut bar in, and in the instructions it recommends to torque the bolts to 33lb/ft. I don't have a torque wrench, so I just tightened it down, and gave it a little extra pull, to make sure it stays. Is that good enough, or should I get a wrench? Or even use a little "loctite" on the bolts, to make sure they don't rotate loose? Or am I just worrying over nothing?
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You should be okay as long as the bolts are tight, which it sounds like they are. The three strut nuts arent that critical to torque settings as some other parts are. I would check them though in a couple of days to make sure theyre still tight.
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I'd still buy a tourque wrench. More accurate, down the road you'll be needing it. I didn't think it would be that useful, but after I bought it, I notice I use it all the time. The sockets are where the price starts to climb, see ya
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Go get yourself a beam-style torque wrench... the Craftsman one is $25 and I'm sure there's plenty cheaper. You don't need one of the fancy clicky ones to get most things done right.
i work at an automotive repair shop and people come in all the time and just want stuff torqued, we charge like 5 bucks to torque a couple bolts or nuts, im sure someone in your area would do the same
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My torque wrench cost me $180 and it was worth every penny. I have since used it so many times.
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Get a torque wrench. Better safe then sorry. If you do a lot of DIY stuff on your car, it's worth buying. If it's a one time deal, i'd say no...you could always barrow one from a neighbor or friend.
The beam type wrenches are ok. There are some places though where you can't see it to read the pointer. I think there are wrenches out there for $15 and on up. I ususally just borrow one from work when I need to torque something. If you get one, you will find uses for it. Like lug nuts have a torque spec so if you change wheels you need to torque and then check again after driving some. If you already have the sockets, then a torque wrench isn't gonna cost that much more.
This prevents the old "shade tree mechanic" syndrome of "tighten it till it breaks, then back off 1/4 turn".
This prevents the old "shade tree mechanic" syndrome of "tighten it till it breaks, then back off 1/4 turn".
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Originally posted by Friedrice
How accurate are those "beam style" torque wrenches compared to the clicky expensive ones? I have one, but I don't use it much because I really don't think its very accurate.
How accurate are those "beam style" torque wrenches compared to the clicky expensive ones? I have one, but I don't use it much because I really don't think its very accurate.
The clicky ones are also easy to knock out of calibration (all you gotta do is drop it) and it's so expensive to get them reset, you might as well buy another one. Sears charges $85 to re-calibrate their $89 torque wrench and recommends you do it every year. If the torque is supercritical, to be absolutely perfect... then take it somewhere that has a clicky... but if the tie bar is torqued down to 35 instead of 33, it won't matter.
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