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I have been trying to find these at the auto parts stores, no luck.

where can i find them, any suggestions would be great.

Changed the stock rotors but i had to drill out the screws.

 
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You'll need to get them at the dealer. Next time try a speed handle, impact driver, or air tools with a high torque rating. I had the same problem, but they come right out with the speed handle.
Good luck.
P.S. they aren't necessary, the rotor will stay on without them.

 
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I had no problem with mine with a screwdriver, never had a single problem at all with the countless brake jobs that I have done. Although an impact driver is a nice thing to have handy just in case. The dealer will have the screws though, or *shiver* maybe a junk yard.

 
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dude come to think about it and i dont even have screws and never have[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG] since i bought it with 7 miles in october 2000

 
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that is the sad part, I did have a Impact Driver with the correct size philips head; wouldnt budge. Air tool striped the screw. I had to drill them out. I am currently riding around with out them. I know you dont need them, but I feel that I should have them there, why i dont know.

this was the first time I have ever had this problem.

 
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Those screws in the rotors are mostly for the manufacturing process, when the car is coming down the assembly line the last thing to go on are the wheels/tires. The screws are there to keep the rotors from falling off the car as its being built coming down the line. Some people think that the screws are for holding the rotor on if you have the rotors resurfaced/turned on the car. This isn't true because every "on car brake lathe" requires that the lug nuts hold the rotor in place, because this "seats the rotor" against the hub. Its just my 2¢[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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not true, we have floating roTORS

 
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Exactly!! I never said the rotors weren't "floating". Thats why the manufacturer puts the screws in so the rotors don't fall off on the assembly line. As far as turning the rotors on the car, some shops like to do this because it takes the runout out of the hubs if they're slightly warped. Its like have the wheels balanced on the car; it not only balances the wheels but also the rotors and hubs.

 
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Its all good to hear.

I know we dont need them. Since, knowing once the rims are on it's in place, we have floating rotors wouldn't our brakes wear out rapidly compared to having them in there? (just wondering, this question was asked, to me, along time ago, I ansered no. Could i be wrong??)

 
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Basically all that "floating rotors" mean is that there just "hanging" on the hub, so the rotors aren't acually floating they're just sandwiched between the wheels and hubs. Some front wheel drive car have rotors that are part of the drive assembly and you can't remove them with out removing part of the drive assembly. So a lot of times shops will have those type of rotors turned on the car because its cheaper, easier and takes less time.

If you remove your front wheels your rotors won't come off unless you remove the calipers first and then the screws if you have them. Like I said in a earlier reply, "The screws are just to keep the rotors in place when the car is being built on the assembly line"

 
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A tip for anyone doing their rotors and have problems with those studs...

A good thing to have is a little of the old PB Blaster...soak the screw for like 30 minutes by drenching it every 10, and that sucker will come out with an impact driver like it was loose...I had to do that to mine since my car is 6 years old and the rotors were never touched.

It's cheap, it works, and it really works itself into the thread...



The crews are kinda cheap...my dealership will sell them for 1.14 each....I got more than I needed just in case too.