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I'm going to use two additional 450cc Mitsu DSM injectors for extra fuel under boost (controlled by GReddy E-Manage).

My shop tells me that the two injectors will be installed in the IC piping, close to the throttle body.

Is this correct?? It just seems odd to me to be spraying gasoline into the IC piping before entering the throttle body.

So what about when the BOV sprays? Won't there be gasoline in the purged air? And it's purging to atmosphere too!!

Please advise.

--J.

 
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ok you really don't need two injectors. one would be sufficent. just place the injector about 8 inches from the throttle body. dont sray the fuel directly into the throttle body because it won't atomise as well. place it just a little waysdown from the bend in the intake pipe. this way it is in between the blow of valve and the throttle body. a haltech F-5 would be sufficient instead of the e-manage unit. it is alot cheaper, but if you have it then i guess that is out of the question. hope this helps.

 
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Thanks, that makes sense.

So then I guess it's normal to place the injectors in the IC piping before the throttle body.

What happens when the BOV purges? Won't the purged air charge contain fuel traces? Isn't that bad since the BOV purges to atmosphere, all up in my engine bay?


--J.

 
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well your blow off valve should be placed about midway between the throttle body and the intercooler. look at RiceBrnrEx's setup. look at where his blow of valve is. that is where yours needs to be. the injector will be between that and the throttle body. so no you shouldn't be venting any unused gas into the atmosphere. with the injector being placed farely close to the throttle body all of the fuel will enter. and it won't completly evacuate all of the pressure, just enough so it doesn't create a back surge.

 
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You probably can't see the injector in my pictures, but it's located just before the final bend in the piping, pointed straight across at the other side of the pipe. That's VERY important, do not angle it into the pipe, put it at a 90 degree angle so the fuel sprays and hits the other side of the pipe, this helps the fuel to atomize better.

The BOV should be before the injector, so you won't be venting anything but air when it blows off.

You only need one injector, I'm using a GReddy 460, and it's more than adequate. I'd advise against buying the e-Manage, but if you already have it, then it'll work. Just not worth the money when compared to the Haltech if you're buying.

 
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Ya, I already have the e-Manage with the additional software and harnesses for controlling ignition as well.

I know everyone says that ignition need not be retarded, but I'm skeptical, so I want the piggyback system to adjust both fuel and spark.

As for the extra injector -- I also already have 2x450cc DSM injectors and a larger Denso fuel pump. Might be overkill for 8psi, but just in case I later on decide to do internals and increase boost.

So RiceBurnrEX, how's your setup running? Everything is still 100% in check, at 8psi? No problems/failures at all? So seriously, what does 197whp feel like? Is the difference from stock like night and day?

I'm pretty damn excited about all this. I still have to wait a month or so though to get the manifold from South Florida Performance. BTW, they say that they will be producing a kit later on too.

Looks like a lot of turner shops are going to make kits. I guess HKS just didn't want to do it for CARB legalities.

 
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Haven't had any problems yet, and I drive it just about every day. Put about 2500 miles on it since the turbo was installed. Done compression/leakdown tests and even took the block apart once since, no visible damage whatsoever.

Stick with just installing one injector now, and if you need it later, it's not hard to weld another injector bung to the charge pipe. Makes it easier on you for now. Fuel pump is good, let me know how that goes. Stock is good for now, but I'm not staying at 8psi very much longer. Let me know how the e-manage system works, I've been curious as to how that will work on our cars.

The difference even at 4psi (about 160hp) is huge, 8psi is night and day. It's great.

If you've got any more questions, I'd be glad to help, you can PM me for my email and phone numbers if you need them.

 
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I dont thin you would need it maybe if you are going to run alot of boost but our motors cant handle it

 
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Never dealt with a turbo i'm guessing... ANY amount of additional air means you need a corresponding amount of additional fuel. Cars can run up to about 3psi without blowing, but it's not safe in the long term. Our blocks themselves can handle 12psi no problems, that's been tested a few times by different shops.

 
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The block and stock internals can really handle up to 12psi boost?

Then why do you keep yours at only 8psi?

Hmmmm, I'll see how things go. Maybe I'll run it at 10-12psi if it's safe, with proper tuning of fuel and spark.

 
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RiceBurnerEX I noticed that on your rev-hard manifold you have a sensor on top but when rev-hard sent me mine it did not have a bung for that sensor to plug into. Did joetech weld that bung in for you or did your's allready have it?

 
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JohnyBlaze: It's kept at 8psi because I still have a stock fuel pump, and that's where the fuel pump's limits are. Rather safe than sorry anyways.

Atl01: That's my EGT probe, Jotech welded it in.

 
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Does the Haltech use that EGT probe? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]

 
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No, it's for my EGT gauge on the a-pillar. More accurate than the o2 sensor, and I don't have my wideband on there yet. The Haltech uses it's own MAP sensor and rev sensor to compute fuel based on what you tell it to do.

 
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RiceBurnrEX: so you know for SURE the D17 internals max out at 12psi? How do you know this?

So do you think if I have a larger fuel pump, can I safely run 10psi safely, properly tuned (fuel and spark)?

Also keep in mind that my Mitsu 16G has a smaller cfm rating than your T3, so is 10psi for you the same as 10psi for me?

 
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This is information taken from a shop owner on Honda Tech, so weigh the information as you wish (I trust him through previous dealings)... but he has said after pressure testing a block on a stand, that it could handle 12psi with the appropriate fuel additions. So basically, go to 10psi, and stop there, to be safe. All previous d-series since about '95 can handle this as well, and our block is built with the same quality standards as the previous blocks, so I see no reason to not believe this. But, as always, be careful. Start at 5 psi.. inch it up to 10.. and I wouldn't run 10 all the time. Mine runs daily 5 psi, 8 when I really need it, not every day. It's just a button for me to switch to high boost.

If you have the larger pump, I see no reason you can't run 10.. just be careful on the tuning and watch everything closely, as you should with any turbocharged vehicle.

10psi for me and for you should be the same... or pretty close to. But it's Honda, a car can be + or - 10hp from another car produced a week later in the factory, and there are a lot of other variables such as rim weight and other modifications to the engine. Your turbo will spool a little faster, but when I rebuild the block, my turbo will be able to push a higher PSI rating than the 16g. But for now, about the same.

 
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Maybe the block is okay at 10psi, but I heard that the head gasket blows out at 10psi. I would replace the head gasket with something tougher than the stock one. Then I would try 10psi. I heard this from Boosted (the moderator). He heard it from a dude who was working on a turbo kit for the 7th gen civic.

 
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So did you totatly do away with you O2 sensor and use a sensor similutaor or does the haletech come with a sensor that plugs in there and is pretty much the same as an O2 sensor?

 
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Atl01: Haltech has nothing to do with the o2 sensor. My stock o2 sensor is there in my downpipe, working like always.

Grey: did he actually test anything, or just his opinion? Our engines are made of the same materials, the same quality control, and the same tolerances as the previous engines, and the guy I talked to actually disassembled a block and ran pressure tests. He said the block itself, with proper tuning, is good up to 12psi. Doesn't mean it could handle 12psi all day, but then again no Honda block can without a little modification. But you'd be safe using 10 or 12psi as a high boost setting, then 5 or 6 as a low boost daily driving setting.

 
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Forget what i just posted i read wrong Ok the haltech has nothing to do with the EGT, so where do the wires from it go to. and where can i get one, and whats its main purpose. I am almost finished buying everything for my set up now all im buying is gaskets,silicone hose's,clamps,and sensors I just want to do it RIGHT that way when I take to my guy he will have everything he needs to put it together. My main concerne is the check engine light comeing on.
Check engine light =[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-puke.gif[/IMG]

 
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Use Missing Link check valves to keep the check engine light from coming on when you go into boost. If it comes on other than that... you've got a problem.

The EGT probe goes to my Autometer EGT gauge, it's useful for making sure your timing isn't off, or that the engine is overheating or detonating.

 
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Yeah, I heard that he tested it and that it blew out at 10psi and that he lost compression in one or more of the pistons.