DIY: CapYoda's PreciseShift Shifter Progress Kit
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Rep Power: 395 DIY: CapYoda's PreciseShift Shifter Progress Kit
This kit is exactly the same as the KumoSport bushings, except that it's not anodized. To get it, go here: PreciseShift Shifter Progress Kit It's not visible when it's installed, so the anodization really does nothing. CapYoda's kit is also way cheaper than KumoSports.
Tools Needed:
- Socket Wrench
- 12mm socket
- Phillips Head Screwdriver
Optional Tools:
- Torque Wrench
- Grippy Gloves
The instructions supplied with the kit are good, but I do a few things differently. You may want to read over the instructions supplied with the kit first and then take a look at my DIY for further reference. Those instructions cover the installation in a 2001 Civic. 2002 Civics and 2003 Civics will have a slightly different installation because of the different cup holders and the integrated arm rest.
Here's what I got in the mail. A nice little package and three sheets worth of instructions.
First you remove the shift ****. Pull down the silver trim ring until it comes off. Then unscrew the shift ****. Lefty loosey, righty tighty.
Now, pull up on the center plastic piece that surrounds the emergency brake. Pull straight up. Use as much force as possible. Grip it wherever possible, but not on the edges there it goes in. You can grip it in betwean the emergency brake and the plastic. That's a good place to grip if you can get a finger or two in there. Also gripping it betwean the pocket and the little tray might work. Wear gloves with a lot of grip if your hands are slipping.
Now move the seats up to gain access to the two screws in back. Unscrew them using a Phillips head screwdriver. Whoopsie... This picture was taken before I removed the plastic piece around the emergency brake. Oh well, you get the point.
Now there are two screws inside where the plastic cover around the emergency brake used to be. Remove these with a Phillips head screwdriver.
Now there are a couple of plastic clips up front. What you do is stick your finger in back to pop out the little inside of the clip. You can do it two ways, you can pop it out or you can push it in. Pushing it in is harder IMO and if you use something hard to push it in you'll scratch up the plastic and your hand might slip and you might scratch up something else.
Here's how the assembly looks like. Locate the four bolts holding down the shifter assembly and use a 12mm socket to unbolt them. Unbolting these and bolting these in is probably the most time consuming part of this DIY.
Now take out the metal part of the stock rubber bushings by simply pressing it down with your finger. Make sure that it doesn't get lost as it's pressed out. Then simply push out the stock rubber bushings.
Here are CapYoda's bushings. Put one under each mounting location and one on top. The flat side of the bushings that are on the bottom should be in contact with the metal under the shifter assembly. Make sure to line everything up so that when you go to put in the bolts, they go through both bushings.
Now put the bolts in and tighten them down to 16 foot pounds. I didn't bother with a torque wrench, I went by feel alone. Just make sure that you don't overdo it! Shift everything around as you're tightening to seat everything properly.
You're done! The shifter should feel more stable and you should feel each gear engaging more than before. These are a good alternative to the KumoSport bushings since they're cheaper. They do exactly the same thing. Props go to CapYoda for making a good product that is actually cheaper than what is already out there.
Tools Needed:
- Socket Wrench
- 12mm socket
- Phillips Head Screwdriver
Optional Tools:
- Torque Wrench
- Grippy Gloves
The instructions supplied with the kit are good, but I do a few things differently. You may want to read over the instructions supplied with the kit first and then take a look at my DIY for further reference. Those instructions cover the installation in a 2001 Civic. 2002 Civics and 2003 Civics will have a slightly different installation because of the different cup holders and the integrated arm rest.
Here's what I got in the mail. A nice little package and three sheets worth of instructions.
First you remove the shift ****. Pull down the silver trim ring until it comes off. Then unscrew the shift ****. Lefty loosey, righty tighty.
Now, pull up on the center plastic piece that surrounds the emergency brake. Pull straight up. Use as much force as possible. Grip it wherever possible, but not on the edges there it goes in. You can grip it in betwean the emergency brake and the plastic. That's a good place to grip if you can get a finger or two in there. Also gripping it betwean the pocket and the little tray might work. Wear gloves with a lot of grip if your hands are slipping.
Now move the seats up to gain access to the two screws in back. Unscrew them using a Phillips head screwdriver. Whoopsie... This picture was taken before I removed the plastic piece around the emergency brake. Oh well, you get the point.
Now there are two screws inside where the plastic cover around the emergency brake used to be. Remove these with a Phillips head screwdriver.
Now there are a couple of plastic clips up front. What you do is stick your finger in back to pop out the little inside of the clip. You can do it two ways, you can pop it out or you can push it in. Pushing it in is harder IMO and if you use something hard to push it in you'll scratch up the plastic and your hand might slip and you might scratch up something else.
Here's how the assembly looks like. Locate the four bolts holding down the shifter assembly and use a 12mm socket to unbolt them. Unbolting these and bolting these in is probably the most time consuming part of this DIY.
Now take out the metal part of the stock rubber bushings by simply pressing it down with your finger. Make sure that it doesn't get lost as it's pressed out. Then simply push out the stock rubber bushings.
Here are CapYoda's bushings. Put one under each mounting location and one on top. The flat side of the bushings that are on the bottom should be in contact with the metal under the shifter assembly. Make sure to line everything up so that when you go to put in the bolts, they go through both bushings.
Now put the bolts in and tighten them down to 16 foot pounds. I didn't bother with a torque wrench, I went by feel alone. Just make sure that you don't overdo it! Shift everything around as you're tightening to seat everything properly.
You're done! The shifter should feel more stable and you should feel each gear engaging more than before. These are a good alternative to the KumoSport bushings since they're cheaper. They do exactly the same thing. Props go to CapYoda for making a good product that is actually cheaper than what is already out there.
#2
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Rep Power: 344 oooh those are better pictures than the ones I took for the instructions...
trying to be better eh?? jk.
thanks for the DIY. its relatively easy though. but yeah everyone should have the skill to be able to take out the center console of their car. so Honda wont charge you $50 bucks to take it apart.
your sister's car looks very clean.
trying to be better eh?? jk.
thanks for the DIY. its relatively easy though. but yeah everyone should have the skill to be able to take out the center console of their car. so Honda wont charge you $50 bucks to take it apart.
your sister's car looks very clean.
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[hr]Originally posted by: CapYoda
your sister's car looks very clean.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: CapYoda
your sister's car looks very clean.[hr]
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Rep Power: 0 Thats a great idea, but I have a question: won't the aluminum bushings put more stress on the plastic shifter mount, since it can't flex and reduce torque from your shifts, and possibly crack the shift mount? Also won't more road vibration be teligraphed through the shifter and cause something to vibrate loose? I rest my hand on the shifter on long trips at times and thought that with those bushings I'd feel more vibration. Just wondering.
(BTW I do know the rule of not resting your hand on the shifter, but that only applies to shifters connected directly to the tranny.)
(BTW I do know the rule of not resting your hand on the shifter, but that only applies to shifters connected directly to the tranny.)
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Rep Power: 344 good questions.
yeah I have concerns about that too thats why I initially wanted polyurethane bushings instead of aluminum... to make sure there are some flex allow but overall a solid connection.
but I also kinda of smacked the assembly a bit and the plastic is pretty firm.. so you shouldn't worry about that... I have been driving with this for over a year now? So I dont think its an issue.
as for vibration.. there's actually quite an amount of dampening around the assembly already, the stock dampening (for sound and vibration).. it doesn't increase the vibration at all IMO. I can't remember what it feels like before though. lets just say you wont see the shifter moving at all (like u do in shifters that connects directly to the tranny)
but yeah lets say you're driving over a bumpy road, you might feel a very small bit of increase in vibration compared to when you were using the stock one.
but you wont notice it cuz I think you'll feel the road bumps more than the tiny increase in vibration (if any) from the shifter.
hope that answers your questions.
yeah I have concerns about that too thats why I initially wanted polyurethane bushings instead of aluminum... to make sure there are some flex allow but overall a solid connection.
but I also kinda of smacked the assembly a bit and the plastic is pretty firm.. so you shouldn't worry about that... I have been driving with this for over a year now? So I dont think its an issue.
as for vibration.. there's actually quite an amount of dampening around the assembly already, the stock dampening (for sound and vibration).. it doesn't increase the vibration at all IMO. I can't remember what it feels like before though. lets just say you wont see the shifter moving at all (like u do in shifters that connects directly to the tranny)
but yeah lets say you're driving over a bumpy road, you might feel a very small bit of increase in vibration compared to when you were using the stock one.
but you wont notice it cuz I think you'll feel the road bumps more than the tiny increase in vibration (if any) from the shifter.
hope that answers your questions.
#7
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Rep Power: 395 Yeah, it would take a really strong arm to break anything in that shifter assembly. I suppose that it's possible, but you'de actually have to want to break it in order to break it IMO. I've had the KumoSport bushings on my Revo Technica SS for something like a year now and there's no increase in vibration and nothing bad has happened to the shifter assembly.
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This may sound like a really dumb question, but how does replacing those bushings actually change the shifting action? That hole plastic assembly doesn't move when you shift right? So how does putting alum. bushings in there change anything? I'm really confused on this one[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG]
Someone please enlighten me......
This may sound like a really dumb question, but how does replacing those bushings actually change the shifting action? That hole plastic assembly doesn't move when you shift right? So how does putting alum. bushings in there change anything? I'm really confused on this one[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG]
Someone please enlighten me......
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[hr]Originally posted by: fuledya
Ok,
This may sound like a really dumb question, but how does replacing those bushings actually change the shifting action? That hole plastic assembly doesn't move when you shift right? So how does putting alum. bushings in there change anything? I'm really confused on this one[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG]
Someone please enlighten me......[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: fuledya
Ok,
This may sound like a really dumb question, but how does replacing those bushings actually change the shifting action? That hole plastic assembly doesn't move when you shift right? So how does putting alum. bushings in there change anything? I'm really confused on this one[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG]
Someone please enlighten me......[hr]
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I just ordered a set for my 01
Do you think I can install those without taking off my shifting ****?
I just put a momo shift **** on ( I know, poor timing)
And don't want to have to fool with it again. I'm sure I could lift the hole console up enough to access them with someones help, whatta ya think?
I just ordered a set for my 01
Do you think I can install those without taking off my shifting ****?
I just put a momo shift **** on ( I know, poor timing)
And don't want to have to fool with it again. I'm sure I could lift the hole console up enough to access them with someones help, whatta ya think?
#11
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[hr]Originally posted by: fuledya
Capyoda,
I just ordered a set for my 01
Do you think I can install those without taking off my shifting ****?
I just put a momo shift **** on ( I know, poor timing)
And don't want to have to fool with it again. I'm sure I could lift the hole console up enough to access them with someones help, whatta ya think?[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: fuledya
Capyoda,
I just ordered a set for my 01
Do you think I can install those without taking off my shifting ****?
I just put a momo shift **** on ( I know, poor timing)
And don't want to have to fool with it again. I'm sure I could lift the hole console up enough to access them with someones help, whatta ya think?[hr]
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Rep Power: 0 no, it slides over the shifter, then attaches with 3 set screws. I lock tighted the set screws so they wouldn't back out, causing the **** to loosen, I think I can get those bushings replaced without haveing to take it entirly off.....
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Rep Power: 344 oooh doh.
yeah u might be able to. I know u can take the shift boot cover off without the rest of the console... but its easier to slide the bushings underneath the shifter assembly with more room.. if you can slide it with the opening you get from the shift boot.. then I guess it'll work.
be pretty hard though, might drop it too and not be able to reach for it.
hmm. didnt know the momo **** is like that.
yeah u might be able to. I know u can take the shift boot cover off without the rest of the console... but its easier to slide the bushings underneath the shifter assembly with more room.. if you can slide it with the opening you get from the shift boot.. then I guess it'll work.
be pretty hard though, might drop it too and not be able to reach for it.
hmm. didnt know the momo **** is like that.
#14
on the EX coupe models, how did you remove the center console completely out? it seems blocked in because it is either hitting the armrest or the shifter when i tried to take it out. it doesn't seem like there is enough room to take it out cause of the armrest.
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Rep Power: 0 Yea, this just inspired me to (finally) put my pieces from capyoda in. Did it in about 20 minutes just cause I couldn't find a socket extension that fit right into the holes, so I ended up using a needle nose pliar instead. Took (why does this seem really wierd way of spelling the word to me) me about 5 minutes to rip some of the metal bits out, it was really hard with the needle nose pliars! Anyway, did it and it's great now. Thx Cap!
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Rep Power: 0 compare this with a dc sport short shifter??? Is it better?is it the same??? I have the DC one but, it seems like 1,3,5 are shorter but 2,4 are the same as stock??? but anyways, it is shorter, so which one is better???
please relpy if you DO actually know the difference
please relpy if you DO actually know the difference
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Rep Power: 408 Originally posted by hangoooknamja
compare this with a dc sport short shifter??? Is it better?is it the same??? I have the DC one but, it seems like 1,3,5 are shorter but 2,4 are the same as stock??? but anyways, it is shorter, so which one is better???
please relpy if you DO actually know the difference
compare this with a dc sport short shifter??? Is it better?is it the same??? I have the DC one but, it seems like 1,3,5 are shorter but 2,4 are the same as stock??? but anyways, it is shorter, so which one is better???
please relpy if you DO actually know the difference
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Rep Power: 0 Damn these make a huge difference
I have to say that these bushings make a huge difference and the shift feels so much better. I can feel no vibration at all in the shifter and it has made some of my friends go out and get them now cause my Civic shifts better than their RSX's do.
I guess I will have to get the short shifter from you next.
I guess I will have to get the short shifter from you next.
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Rep Power: 344 ooh yeah. i dont have instructions for 04+ cuz well.. I dont know how too.
there's a DIY for 04+ console removal..
search for it.. I'll see if I can find it too.. the concept is the same though..
there's a DIY for 04+ console removal..
search for it.. I'll see if I can find it too.. the concept is the same though..
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Rep Power: 0 I just put in a Neuspeed adapter, and it was the exact same for my '04 as in the DIY: Take aout the 2 front plastic retainer clips by pressing in the middle, then taking out the 2 back screws, removing the centre tray (it's a bit tricky, but you just have to pull up), then taking out the 2 screws under that tray. It was my first time taking out the console, and it only took me about 15 minutes.
Also check out http://neuspeed.com/data/installs/66.20.77.pdf for a different set of instructions.
CapYoda: Your bushings will fit on the oem assembly, right? Do I order them through http://www.freshbacon.com/139/ ? Any downsides to having a solid mount as opposed to the somewhat isolated rubber bushings? Thanks.
Also check out http://neuspeed.com/data/installs/66.20.77.pdf for a different set of instructions.
CapYoda: Your bushings will fit on the oem assembly, right? Do I order them through http://www.freshbacon.com/139/ ? Any downsides to having a solid mount as opposed to the somewhat isolated rubber bushings? Thanks.
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Rep Power: 344 yeah if u want them just order thru my site listed above, and yeah it fits stock assembly. its made for stock assembly, heh. it wasnt meant for revo, but it works on revo too.
only downside is.. you might feel engine/body vibration more thru the chassis.. since assembly is bolted down now onto chassis now.. but honestly, u'll have to be super sensitive to feel that.. or to let it bother u.
and.. if you shift hard enough (i'm talking about shifting to try to break it).. or accidentally like slam kick the shifter (how? i dont know).. the assembly might break at the corner cuz there's no rubber to absorb the impact.
honda probably went with the rubber bushing cuz.. its there already, as in, its within their inventory and list of parts to use to build cars.. it works in all cars.. fits many different assembly.. plus, rubber absorb impacts, less chance of failure or assembly housing breaking.. and the main reason, is probably cuz its cheaper, and less vibration.
but fear not.. using the aluminium ones are fine.. u'll have to seriously seriously slam it hard... and attempt to break it.. then it might break. but things that may break first is the shift stick itself.. the shifter cable may bend.. before the housing crack.
and like mentioned, these are just simple mods. shouldnt expect them to work miracles.
after awhile u may not even realize they're there (just like how u get use to the short shifter after awhile).. unless u go right into another stock car, then u may feel the difference.
they work best on EP3/Civic Si though.. because the Si's shifter bracket is mounted only on these.. and they're floating there sorta. plus the location of the shifter has more impact too (on top center console)
any other questions? heh.
only downside is.. you might feel engine/body vibration more thru the chassis.. since assembly is bolted down now onto chassis now.. but honestly, u'll have to be super sensitive to feel that.. or to let it bother u.
and.. if you shift hard enough (i'm talking about shifting to try to break it).. or accidentally like slam kick the shifter (how? i dont know).. the assembly might break at the corner cuz there's no rubber to absorb the impact.
honda probably went with the rubber bushing cuz.. its there already, as in, its within their inventory and list of parts to use to build cars.. it works in all cars.. fits many different assembly.. plus, rubber absorb impacts, less chance of failure or assembly housing breaking.. and the main reason, is probably cuz its cheaper, and less vibration.
but fear not.. using the aluminium ones are fine.. u'll have to seriously seriously slam it hard... and attempt to break it.. then it might break. but things that may break first is the shift stick itself.. the shifter cable may bend.. before the housing crack.
and like mentioned, these are just simple mods. shouldnt expect them to work miracles.
after awhile u may not even realize they're there (just like how u get use to the short shifter after awhile).. unless u go right into another stock car, then u may feel the difference.
they work best on EP3/Civic Si though.. because the Si's shifter bracket is mounted only on these.. and they're floating there sorta. plus the location of the shifter has more impact too (on top center console)
any other questions? heh.
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Rep Power: 0 N/m, i figured it out, tricky screw inside the console underneath the rubber pad. Thanks guys
Later
Btw, ,just finished with the short shifter and bushings install, and it makes a world of difference. Shifting is 20 times tighter, i LOVE IT.
Later
Btw, ,just finished with the short shifter and bushings install, and it makes a world of difference. Shifting is 20 times tighter, i LOVE IT.
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Originally Posted by civicguy1xxxxx
N/m, i figured it out, tricky screw inside the console underneath the rubber pad. Thanks guys
Later
Btw, ,just finished with the short shifter and bushings install, and it makes a world of difference. Shifting is 20 times tighter, i LOVE IT.
Later
Btw, ,just finished with the short shifter and bushings install, and it makes a world of difference. Shifting is 20 times tighter, i LOVE IT.
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Rep Power: 273 Well Capyoda I have had your bushings in my car for a while now. I broke a shift cable from shifting like an ahole one time lol. So I wouldnt worry about the plastic breaking, the cable will first. I also cut my stick down and moved the lever bracket up an inch or so. Then I TIGed it all back together. My throws are only about an inch from front to back. That solved the whole broken cable thing. Faster shifts with less momentum. Just letting everyone know that these things are fine for agressive drivers. Order with confidence