JohnyBlaze

What do you guys think of this choice of parts:

Mitsubishi 16G
Mitsubishi BOV
O2 Housing
Turbo Oil and Water Lines (black rubber)
Misc Flanges and Gaskets
GReddy e-Manage Fuel + Ignition Controller
South Florida Performance Exhaust Manifold
Down Pipe (mild-steel, BBQ painted black)
Ceramic Coating (Manifold, Turbine, O2 Housing)
Intercooler (+ mild-steel pipes, painted black)
Clamps and Couplings
Spark Plugs (Denso Iridium colder plugs)
Hi-flow Cat
Fuel Injectors (2 x 450cc DSM injectors)
Fuel Pump (Denso)
Flex Pipe (stainless-steel, braided)
Autometer Boost Gauge
Autometer EGT Gauge
Electronic Boost Controller (most likely GReddy Profec B)
MAP Bypass Valve
K&N Cone Filter

That's the parts list that a shop spec'd out for me. No need for turbo-timer since the 16G is water cooled.

I'm wondering about the Denso fuel pump though -- are there any issues with that being that we have returnless fuel systems? Also, do you think it'll be too loud?

I'm also not sure yet the exact details on the IC tank. Should I go with type 31 or 24, and how big? What manufacturers do you recommend?

I'm going to let the e-Manage unit retard ignition under boost. I don't know how all these people with turbos can not do anything about their ignition timing!! If it's working for you so far, it's prolly because the stock knock sensors are firing telling the ECU to retard ignition timing -- but that's not a good way to achieve that, is it?

Anyways... still gotta see if I can afford this project (it'll run about $8000 installed and tuned), but I wanted to ask you guys about the parts first.

Please, no comments about whether or not it's worth it, or that I should do a swap instead!! ;-)

--J.

AEMcivic

That sounds like a pretty good list.
The turbo will quiet things down if anything.....shouldn't make anything louder.
And you can probably go with the smaller IC since you're not runnin a drag turbo (t3/t4). But.....if you did go with the bigger IC it would be less work if you wanted to upgrade things later on. And $8000 for everything including the fuel management software, installed, tested, and tuned? That sounds like a pretty good price to me. Just remember to post lots of pics when you're done.

Nuts

iTrader: (1)

you forgot the wategate.

JohnyBlaze

I was also thinking of a smaller IC since we're running low boost. A larger IC would make things less efficient at low boost due to the greater loss in charge pressure.

As for the noise, I was referring to the fuel pump -- do you think a larger Denso pump will be too loud? I've heard they are noisy and idling quality might be bad. That's also why I asked if anyone knew if the Denso pumps are good for our application. Maybe I can use an RSX-S pump, but not sure how much $$ that is, or if it'll even flow enough.

As for boost levels -- I know everyone is saying 8psi is all our engines can handle. What about with proper tuning (BOTH ignition and fuel) -- can we handle a bit more?

How did people come up with 8psi anyways? Has anyone tried more and blown their motor?

[BTW, the 16G is internally gated.]

--J.

theguysmiley

I heard that on the HKS project car they made it to 10 pounds of boost before it blew. Maybe people think of 8 pounds as a safe limit for our car. I'd just be careful.

JohnyBlaze

Did the HKS car blow at 10psi because that's the absolute most the internals can handle even if fully tuned?

Or is it because they didn't delay ignition timing and parts started to melt?

BTW, does anybody know what the emissions requirements for custom turbo'd cars are in Toronto, Canada? Do I need to maintain the ULEV rating???!??

--J.

4drcivic2k1

iTrader: (2)

he didnt forget the wastegate....its built into the turbo

emmc

iTrader: (2)

8000????

swap!!!!!

riceburnrex

iTrader: (2)

I see 2 injectors, guessing you're going to use them as additional injectors? Because if you replace 1, you gotta replace all 4. If you are using them as additional, 1 460 injector is more than enough for 10psi.

Our fuel pump and lines are good up to 10psi, and that's about where the block's limit is, so unless you're building the block now, save some expense and get the fuel pump later.

As for ignition timing.... for 10 psi... you don't need to retard at ALL! I've had aftermarket knock sensors on mine while on the dyno at 10psi, and absolutely NO knock was heard (of course I'm using 91 or 93 octane). You'll only need to retard ignition timing for higher boost levels or if you're not going to run a higher octane. My OEM knock sensors have never activated (yes, you can download the stock ECU to find this out), and I've had the turbo for a few months now. This is yet another turbo myth, like people thinking you have to lower compression for boost. Just not true.

kjgracing

iTrader: (3)

can you provide the link where I can download the ECU?

riceburnrex

iTrader: (2)

There is no 'link'. You have to get your hands on the Honda Diagnostic Tuner and use that. Some dealerships will let you use theirs, otherwise you can order one through the parts department.

chefjnr

iTrader: (1)

$8000.00!!!! I know you have had to have been told this by now- IF YOU HAVE $8000 TO SPEND, DO A ENGINE SWAP!!!

sorry to yell, but seriously, you can get a rsx-s engine with under 10K for like $4500, installed with everything needed, and be faster than that turbo setup and still have change left over.

kjgracing

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I have seen some rsx type s engines for that pricing at Car Parts

mykungfuisthebest

iTrader: (1)

current k20 price is average of like 7500 but you need mounts another 650 labor so its be a bit more than the turbo, about the same outcome though... although you can turbo that too wahahahah!!! anycase im more of a turbo fan and thats the way i am going with mine so good luck.

bbguy5

it probably blew because of the nice "compositie" manifold......whoo hoo go plastic

chris