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Hey everyone, over the weekend I changed the oil myself for the first time. I used Mobil 1 5W-30 and a bosch oil filter. For those people that use mobil 1 and have a EX, does your civic drive alot smoother than it did with regular oil. It is hard to explain, but when I go into VTEC, the engine activates vtec smoother than with regular oil. Maybe I am just imagining things, but maybe not. Thanks!

 
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i think your just proud

 
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I don't have v-tec, but it does run smoother[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/IMG]

 
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i dont know about yalls engines, but in my 00' Si that mobile 1 oil is crap. every time i hit vtec it eats the oil like candy and i have to add some like every few days. but if n e ov yall are true racers you should use like "redline oil" or that "green oil , stuff" thats the best for high performance engines with vtec motors.

 
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OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOK

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Anyways, I want to change to synthetic, and I meant to today when I took the car to the dealer for the oil change, is it going to be too late at 20,000 miles?

 
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i used synthetic on my car for the first 12,000 miles, but it adds up and the dealership just started to put dura-life in. i think they're trying to tell me something, hmmmmmm

 
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I do find that the engine runs smoother overall also on my VTEC engine with Mobil 1 5W30.

 
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i have an ex and i use mobile 1 has far as running smoother my car always runs smoother when i change the oil. and the vtec thing i never really paid that much attention.

 
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[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]
Is it bad to use a 5w-30, all the tests I see that use a thicker oil than stock weight decrease horse power?

Would you guys recomend AMS oil 5w-20 or Mobil 1 %w-30, the Mobil is easier to get, but I would just order a case of AMS off line?

What do you guys think?

 
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Are you talking about Amsoil? If so, I used to use it in my Jeep, the 300z shop around here says it is the best oil out there, and I found it to be true. Unfortunately, their 5w20 isn't their really good stuff (the stuff you have to change every 15-20k miles like the 0w30 was that I used to use in my jeep). Either way, if your going 5w20 go amsoil, if not I would just stick to plain old synthetic.

 
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Why do these oil related threads always sound the same ? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG] It's gets old... (Just my take, I could be wrong)

 
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I changed my oil this weekend to Mobil1 5w 30... it does feel alot smoother when it hits VTEC and overall. I'm gonna stick with Mobil1 for the rest of the year until next summer when summer comes and alot of racing begins. Then I'll be changing oil from Mobil 1 to racing oil... MOTUL!!

 
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i read somewhere on here that you should switch to synthetic before 10k miles. is that true? i have almost 35k and i want to switch, but i don't know if i should or not.

 
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you only "need" synthetic oils for turbo and supercharger systems where the turbine units draw oil from the engine oil reservoir, this is becaues synthetic oils can stand higher temperatures and friction levels than organic based oils (example....synthetic oil can stand up to the 15k plus rpms turbines undergo vs. the 7k plus rpms that engine bearings undergo) after about 9-10k organic based oils break down rapidly....don't believe me?? do this....change your oil and run down the road in first gear at redline for about 100 miles (if your engine can handle it hahaha) with both a synthetic oil and an organic oil and see which one is blacker at the end....it'll be the organic oil.

Now, the reason your engine feels like it is revving faster and smoother with the 5weight oil vs, 10weight or 15 or 20 weight oil is...duhhhh the weight of the oil....it's got less viscosity to it so it's more fluid....think of it like this...try to dip a long as.$ stick with shirt wrapped around the end into a vat of baby oil and swing it around (similiar to 5 weight oil)...less will stick to the shirt on the end thus the stick will weight less and be easier to swing.....now if you dip that same stick with a shirt around the end into a vat of dam maple syrup and swing it around then it's like a barbell on the end and a pain in the *** to swing (same as with 20 weight oils)....even though they coat more and offer more protection they give more parasitic loss on the rotating assembly since they are heavier and move more slowly. it's one extreme vs. another.....basically. As the crank shaft contacts the oil in the oil pan it picks up the oil....the more the oil acts like water the less drag thus the smoother the engine feels if that makes some more sense...now if you have a crank scraper attached to the main bearing caps and/or a baffle system built into the oil pan then by all means go with a higher weight oil as they offer nothing less than added protection against wear and a wider temperature range for the car.

-stackz