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Edit: read my last post on page two.

Hello, ok, So I just got done with the biggest work on my car I've ever done...

I pulled the transmission out, split it, pulled the gears out, replaced the Input shaft bearing, put it all back together.

After I was done, and the car was off, I slid the shifter through all the gears. They moved perfectly like they should. Ok so I was glad, I also pressed on the clutch pedal, and it went straight down to the floor with almost no resistance.

Right after I did that I realized like "Oh crap, I don't think I was supposted to push the clutch down or something, anyways. I started the car up (after a jump start, the battery was dead) and the clutch is still really soft, goes down the the bottom with almost no resistance, except at the very bottom, it seems like there's some resistance. When I hold the clutch down, and shift through the gears, It seems a little chunky, almost like it's have a slight problem getting into gear.

Does anyone have any idea what this could be? Something to do with the clutch pressure or whatever?

Lastly, (I still have the car jacked up on stands, I just wanted to be safe, glad I did) when the shifter is in the neutral position, and the clutch pedal is not pressed down to the floor, the front wheels started rolling slowly forward! I was like wtf? It doesn't seem to be doing that anymore though.

Anyone have any input whatsoever would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 
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did u disconnect the slave cylinder at any point? if u did, u need to bleed the clutch fluid

 
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^^^WHat he said.

 
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Agreed

 
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Ha ha, I know this might sound wierd, but where is that located? I took apart and put together so much stuff....

I'm assuming that I did, because I took apart anything that had to do with the trans. I wonder if there's a diy around here for bleeding the clutch.

 
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lol its kinda like bleeding the brakes.

 
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that's cool, I've never bled the brakes before. I think I will try doing this, this week. Hopefully it'll solve the problem.

 
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the clutch slave cylinder is the small looking thing close to the rubber boot on the front of the tranny. it has a little rod that pushes on a lever when the clutch pedal is depressed (under the rubber boot).

there should be a 8 or 10 mm (cant remember) on the end of the slave cylinder used to bleed the system.

you loosen that bolt a 1/2 turn or so until the fluid starts to come out of the hole. press the clutch 10 times with the bolt loose. tighten the bolt back up and then press the clutch 10 times. redo the entire process until you have your regular clutch pressure back. a good indicator of when to stop bleeding is when the fluid coming out of the hole is a constant stream, and not shooting out like a machine gun lol... sorry dont know how else to explain it.
NOTE: keep replacing the clutch fluid as you bleed it out, if you let the the system suck in air you have to redo the entire process.

and it is normal for your front wheels to spin while in the air. it is supposed to be that way. thats a good sign that your tranny is working. bleed the clutch system and i think you should be good. the process will be a lot faster with a friend to pump the pedal for you.

 
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and if you didnt know, clutch fluid is aka brake fluid.

 
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When you pump the clutch pedal, do you push it to the floor? Does it matter? (I'm only asking because I think I read somewhere that when you bleed the brakes you're only supposed to pump it to the half way.)

Awesome! I'm excited to do this, Then I think I'll be all set! +1 for you sir! Thanks everyone for the suggestion, I'll do it and then post the results here.

 
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all the way to the floor thank ya sir! repped you back.

 
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OK Ryan, I just went through this as well - panicked when the clutch pedal went to the floor, couldn't build pressure back up, it was awful. Andy (andyman97) taught me a neat trick on how to bleed the system.

Get a piece of vacuum line or windshield washer fluid line - any type of flexible line that will go over the slave cylinder nipple - the on there at the front of the tranny with the line going to it. Get three bottles of Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid (either one, doesn't matter).

Pour 3/4 of one down the storm drain.

Crack open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and put the hose over the nipple, run that hose into the half-full bottle of brake fluid. Make sure the hose is in the fluid.

Open the clutch reservoir and fill it. Now have your friend add fluid to the reservoir while you pump the pedal with your hand because you will have to pull the pedal back up to the top. Just keep pumping until you feel resistance. It won't be as much as when you normally push the pedal but you'll be able to tell the difference. Once you feel resistance, pump the pedal a couple more times to be safe, and then bring the pedal all the way back up.

Go around to the front of the car and close the bleeder valve with the hose still on it. Once it's closed, pull the hose off and you're done!

By running the hose into the 3/4 empty bottle, you eliminate the chance of air getting into the system while you pump it. I recommend getting rid of the fluid because that way you don't run the risk of contaminating your fluid with some other container. Either do the pour out method, or use a clean, dry glass jar to add fluid to and put your hose in.

 
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i saw a shop do brakes with hoses on all the calipers. and it works so i would do what foos said

 
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this happens to the best of us. ive seen justin's face go white after working for like 12+ hours on his car and when he tried to step on his clutch and it just went STRAIGHT into the floor. it was freakin hilarious but i didnt want to laugh at him at the time. i helped andy bleed it. it was pretty simple.

 
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Sweeeeeet, thanks foos, this method sounds more like what I would be interested then what civicsrcool suggested, just because it sounds quicker.

Curiouz, I know what you mean, well first of all, my battery died, so the car wouldn't start, then after I got jumped I pushed the clutch, and was like aww man....

ha ha, Good learning experience, but In my mind im not 100 percent done yet, so I'm not celebrating just yet, but soon.

 
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ok another dumb question,where is the resevior located? Is that the little tiny resevoir that's just to the left of the drivers side strut tower? It says only dot 3 or 4 brake fluid.... I wanna do this right now, so if anyone knows, lemme know.

im just about one hundred percent sure this is right, ive never accessed it before.

 
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So i bled the clutch, got the car back down on the floor, put the wheels on, drive down the street, everything seemed fine.

I drove down further, turned right and drove down, and my transmission made a popping/cracking/slamming kinda noise, it came out of gear, and stopped driving. i pulled around the corner, another right turn, and stopped on the side of the road. The clutch pedal still feels fine, the shifter moves through the gears fine, when I put the shifter in first gear, and let the clutch in to try to move forward....nothing. I could let the clutch in completely, while the shifter is in first gear and the car moves nowhere. Same thing for second. I tried third and it made a slight grinding noise of some sort. Same for fourth. At that point I just walked home and called a tow truck. They'll be here in about a half an hour.

I don't know what else to say, besides "I'm not going to be driving my car any time soon because I don't have any money to get it fixed."

Comments, questions welcome.

 
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well when i had an 88 hatchback my clutch let go, i could put in first and lift the clutch and it wouldnt stall... then some guy bought the car and he had to put a whole new transmission in it.. Not sure if that little story will help in anyway

 
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if u took all that time to take the tranny out why didnt u put a new clutch in while u were right there? might as well right? just a thought

 
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Well I'm not sure, I don't think it has anything to do with the clutch, because I didn't touch that at all. I think it's going to have something to do with the gears themselves.

edit: plus I just got a brand new clutch and flywheel put in a couple months ago. It's an exedy racing clutch.

The worst part of everything, is that it seemed fine, like I drove the whole thing like a quarter of a mile, and it seemed fine, even shifting between first and second.

I donno, I want to get it fixed, but I kinda don't want to pull the trans out again, although I think I have to. Either that or take it somewhere. I donno what to do.

 
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go to a honda dealership and talk to one of the mechanics and see if he can tell what the problem is or if there any shops around there and you can ask them

 
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Yeah I could do that, only problem with that is I know that regardless of what's wrong, I know that it's going to involve removing the transmission.

Who knows, maybe I can find someone that can get me a good deal to fix it. I guess it was worth a shot.

Edit: I keep thinking to myself, in some other dimension I correctly fixed the transmission, and am out driving it right now. So my loss is my gain in another dimension.... heh crazy, whatever.

 
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hey its a good practice.. If it happens again you know what to do or if someone needs it done you can do it for them for some cash

 
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That sucks big ***** Ryan. I'm sure you already know this, but you must have put something back together incorrectly and that's why it broke. It has nothing to do with the clutch.

What I would do is pull the tranny back and take it apart. That way you can assess the damage and see if it's just a needle bearing or you didn't seat the ISB correctly and it broke. Hopefully it's an easy (read: cheap) fix and nothing that will completely bombshell the tranny.

 
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yeah i think the tranny is gone. what amazes me is where you got the idea of doing that work yourself. to be honest i dont think you would be qualified to do transmission work if you dont know where the clutch slave cylinder is and the clutch resevoir is. but your in luck. d17 trannys dont go for more than 300 normally so you can probably just buy a new one.

 
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I never said that I was qualified, but there is the possibility of saving a whole heck of a lot of money here, even if I don't get it right the first time.

anywho, I'd like to know where you're getting a trans for 300. Seriously! That sounds like a good deal to me!

 
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Most junkyards will have them for that price all day long. It really doesn't matter if you get an EX or LX tranny really. The gear ratio is a little "longer" for the LX tranny but that's it. They both bolt right up to either D17 block.

 
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I'm also looking at it this way, I can't drive my car anyway, so if I pull the trans out on sunday, and then wait a week as Im fixing it, then put it back in the following sunday, I think It would be best.

Personal lives aside, It's been too long, something like almost two years too long where this damn bearing has been screwing with me, I'm ready to turn things around for the best.

 
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i see you were asking about tranny lock up. self explanatory it means the transmission wont spin anymore. say you were driving and your tranny locked up, your car would come to a violent stop because the tranny doesnt spin anymore. i doubt you broke that bearing.

 
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Nice, thanks for the explanation. Ha ha, it does sound self explanatory.

Hm, the car didn't come to a violent stop it like just broke, then stopped driving. I can still push it around like while it's in neutral. Strangely, Im anxious to find out what it is.

I'm going to pull it again on saturday.