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Alrighty then, lets get started

First...
When I went to change my brakes about 2 months ago I wanted to put on new rotors as well, but I couldnt get the old ones off. I decided to leave them on since they werent too scored, and I knew I was going to change them out sooner or later anyway. The 2 screws that hold them on...well they wouldnt come loose. I tried PbBlaster, WD40, a hammer to get them loose, and they just refuse to come out. I dont have air tools, and my mechanic who we have used for many years is being a ***** because my car doesnt get on the lift and hes too lazy to jack it up an inch to make it clear on, and besides, I dont want to take it anywhere else because I dont trust others with my car, and generally dont want to pay for something I can do myself. How can I get these pieces of *** out of their damn place...I dont have a blowtorch either.

Next up...
When I pulled my old pads out, they were unevenly worn. By this I mean going horizontally, one side had about 1/2 life left, and as you went to the other side, it got more and more worn...kinda like camber wear. Some said its a pin inside of the caliper, and that the cyliner isnt pressing on flat, and said it could be rebuilt, but I am thinking just to get new calipers used since they really dont cost much...whats your take on this, I dont think its normal. I have them in the garage, can snap pictures tomorrow if needed.

3rd question...
Rear disk conversion. Need something that will clear 14 inch steelies in the winter time, dont know if ep3 ones will do the trick for me. Need to know if I can use the EP3 ones of if I am stuck with using EX rears although they seem tiny and dont know what the benefit would be over the stock drums with them. I also need a complete list of the parts I will need from the donor car so I can get everything at the junkyard in one shot, since the only good yard is about 2 hours away.

4th question...
What are good rotors to use. I want to get as much stopping power as possible, currently opting for Hawk HP pads since they seem to be a good balance of performance and price, but am stuck on rotors. Dont want to shell out big money for a set. Some have told me that ebay slotted/drilled ones work great, some said to stick with Brembo Blanks...anyone have any experience here?? There are also rotors on ebay that are "zinc coated" to prevent corrosion...real deal or just another ebay lie?

5th question...
Brake lines...have stockers now, have seen the SS ones for our cars, but whats the benefit and whats the drawback to them...there must be something to justify them being 100 dollars and change. Also, if I get a rear brake conversion to disks, will the same line kit work with the new parts?


I know I am throwing a lot out into the open right now, but brakes are important, and I want to make sure that I do everything right on the install day, so I need someone to take me under their wing and help me figure whats what, recomend me some parts, or at least give an explanation so I can make a decision on my own. Please only those with experience answer, if you have as much of a clue as me about the subject, I dont need your advice (no offence).

Thanks in advance.

 
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have u heard of the search button?
your second question is the only one that i havent seen from browsing the forums. seriously wtf?

 
Rep Power: 291

impact wrench should do the trick for the screws... if not u can just drill them out.

 
Rep Power: 266

What do you mean drill them out??

 
Rep Power: 237

get a drill, drill the centers out, then re-tap em?

or try heating them up real hot, then use an impact gun?

 
Rep Power: 266

Dont have a friggin blow torch...should really get one though. I think my buddy has air tools at his house so we can try it

 
Rep Power: 254

those screws are irrelevant, they are only used to hold the rotor on during the assembly of the car. you can drill the screws out and call it a day. the rim will hold the rotor on. or if you really feel like using the screws still get an impact screwdriver. an impact screwdriver is a screw driver that spins (tighten or loosen) when you hit the butt of the screwdriver with a hammer(etc). works wonders on those hard screws. rep me if this helped you.

 
Rep Power: 297

easiest way to remove those 2 screws are to get those cheap drill bits you get with these changable drills. put it in there and hammer it in until its staying on its own in there firm. then get a socket wrench with the fitting for that drill bit and turn. works every time for me.

the rest of the stuff is mostly opinions on the rotors and the lines. what people own they will praise, just search around for the answer.

 
Rep Power: 297

like this basically but tap that screw bit into the rotor screw first.

 
Rep Power: 293

1)Use an impact screw driver like civicsrcool said. It has worked for me the last 6 times I've had to get those screws out.

2)I can't help you on this one sorry.

3)I can't say from experience but if the front brakes clear 14inch steelies than I don't for see a problem with ep3s in the back. There's a parts list in the DIY section with everything you need.

4)IMO buy blanks. You are wasting your money if you're buying anything else.

5)The benefit of SS lines is increase pedal feel ie you'll be able to better modulate the brake pedal. Google it if you want more info. If you do the conversion just buy SS lines for the ep3.

Not all from experience like you wanted but hopefully some of it will help you. If Boilermaker or zzyzx or robclark don't respond to this thread PM them. They should be able to answer all of these.

 
Rep Power: 0

Impact screwdriver: $9 from Ebay. Right here: 330198244558

Works every time. **** drilling them out or all the other nonsense. Two whacks with a hammer and they are loose. I think I picked mine up from Autozone for like $12. You can put the screws back in or not, they don't do anything aside from hold the rotors on during assembly like civicsrcool said.

I rolled Ebay cheapie D/S rotors and cheap pads for three years and they were fine until I started putting the car on the strip. Then the brake fade was ridiculous. Now I run D/S Brembos (yes I know, Brembo does not D/S them from the factory) and PBR Metal Master pads (aka Axxis). The rotors are zinc coated and it does help keep the rust off the center of the rotor. The braking surface gets taken care of by the pads. Oh, I don't have brake fade anymore.

 
Rep Power: 311

I never understood cross drilling rotors. It is completely useless.

Like everyone else said, the EP3 discs bolt right on. You dont necessarily need them for a DD, but if your just wanting 4 wheel discs, thats the ticket.

For rotors, use Brembo blanks and leave them alone.

Stainless braided lines have no drawback. The advantage of going this route is that when your on the brakes hard, the braided lines will not expand like the rubber ones do, and give you a stiffer pedal as well as better clamping force.

 
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hope this help....

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...ics-pg4-4.html

as for slot/drilled rotors, ppl who says it HELP alot...i have no idea why. i have power slots and hawk pads plus SS lines. i felt no difference after installing them for more then a couple of months now. wen my pads wears down, i'm going to brembo blanks and OEM pads. hope the link help and my experience with the slotted rotors. o yeah if you plan to still get the rotor or drilled, be ready to clean your rims.

 
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Yeah, the D/S rotors are definitely only for looks, no improvement there over regular Brembo blanks. The reason I love my new brakes so much are the pads. They grip like mad. They definitely don't fade at all like my Ebay kevlar-metallic pads that I paid $30 for.

 
Rep Power: 311

Well the reason slotted rotors became popular in the 1st place was when people were running brake pads with asbestos there would be a build up of gas between the pad and the rotor and when you would step on the brake, you would get a false pedal for a second. By cross drilling the rotors, it would allow the gas to escape and solved the problem. Now that brake pads dont contain asbestos, there is no need for them. They actually weaken the rotor and as the rotor gets hot, it becomes prone to cracking.

See...you learn something new every day. lol