AutoX/Daily Driver..Is this possible??
AutoX/Daily Driver..Is this possible?? Lets face it, most of us can't have two cars, at least for now.. 
Seeing how many ppl have their cars tuned for the street & "the real deal" racing, not to confuse it with "street racing"..Is it possible to drive tuned for autoX along with daily street commute? Apreciate comments..
Seeing how many ppl have their cars tuned for the street & "the real deal" racing, not to confuse it with "street racing"..Is it possible to drive tuned for autoX along with daily street commute? Apreciate comments..
Last edited by cubanmike26; Oct 10, 2005 at 12:24 PM.
Nothing works better than a Chris except a Honda.
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Yes, you'll have to drive one of those extreme cars that are great for auto-x'ers but give up some of the functions and features that commuter cars have.
examples: S2000's are great stock, and they make great auto-x'ers but I wouldn't reccommend one as an everday ride, more likely a weekend car but some people manage to use them as daily rides.
or if you get a modded car, it is probably going to be on the aggressive side, so you'll just have to get used to it if you want it as a daily ride also.
examples: S2000's are great stock, and they make great auto-x'ers but I wouldn't reccommend one as an everday ride, more likely a weekend car but some people manage to use them as daily rides.
or if you get a modded car, it is probably going to be on the aggressive side, so you'll just have to get used to it if you want it as a daily ride also.
Our cars.
What sort of functions and features you mean exactly?
Originally Posted by CivicsRdBest
Yes, you'll have to drive one of those extreme cars that are great for auto-x'ers but give up some of the functions and features that commuter cars have
Last edited by cubanmike26; Oct 10, 2005 at 01:58 PM.
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From: Spokane, Washington
Rep Power: 330 hm, i think Boilermaker1 and zzyzx have some pretty good setups and are daily driven. my setup is in my profile, its daily driven (i deliver pizza), and i do pretty well at autocross, especially for being a novice (a few guys told me this). i had one event last month, i took 1st in my class out of 6 cars, and i had 2 events this weekend, on sat i got 2nd outta 3, and yesterday i got 1st in class outta 3.
and my setup isnt that extreme (at least i dont think it is). my suggestion would be to try autocrossing with what you have and become a good driver first, then spend money on parts as you need them, then become better. im sure that some of the suspension forum moderators will tell you the same.
and my setup isnt that extreme (at least i dont think it is). my suggestion would be to try autocrossing with what you have and become a good driver first, then spend money on parts as you need them, then become better. im sure that some of the suspension forum moderators will tell you the same.
Nothing works better than a Chris except a Honda.
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From: Baltimore, MD
Rep Power: 347 ie; air-conditioning is a big thing, a lot of people want that in a daily driven car, but it adds extra weight to a car for auto-x.
Suspension components that would normally absorb imperfections in roads are tuned to be stiffer for better handling and cornering. So ride quality goes from cruiser to bruiser.
There are some ways to keep a car in good commuter shape (and not go too extreme), but like mandangalo said, its best to become a good driver.
Suspension components that would normally absorb imperfections in roads are tuned to be stiffer for better handling and cornering. So ride quality goes from cruiser to bruiser.
There are some ways to keep a car in good commuter shape (and not go too extreme), but like mandangalo said, its best to become a good driver.
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 we all DD our cars. STS rules are intended to keep cars in "Run what you brung" form, i.e. stock + Suspension and sticky tires. There's no reason why you can't DD your car.
You trade off a little bit of bumpy ride for the handling, but if you keep the stock 185/65s around for DD, its deciently comfy, just strap on the sticky tires for races (most of us do that too). The thing that may cause the most problems is the alignment.... my advice is to DD on very hard tires that last a while so the negative camber doesn't eat at them too badly, and don't care about the sticky ones, you'll trash them anyways.
You trade off a little bit of bumpy ride for the handling, but if you keep the stock 185/65s around for DD, its deciently comfy, just strap on the sticky tires for races (most of us do that too). The thing that may cause the most problems is the alignment.... my advice is to DD on very hard tires that last a while so the negative camber doesn't eat at them too badly, and don't care about the sticky ones, you'll trash them anyways.
Originally Posted by mandangalo
hm, i think Boilermaker1 and zzyzx have some pretty good setups and are daily driven. my setup is in my profile, its daily driven (i deliver pizza), and i do pretty well at autocross, especially for being a novice (a few guys told me this). i had one event last month, i took 1st in my class out of 6 cars, and i had 2 events this weekend, on sat i got 2nd outta 3, and yesterday i got 1st in class outta 3.
and my setup isnt that extreme (at least i dont think it is). my suggestion would be to try autocrossing with what you have and become a good driver first, then spend money on parts as you need them, then become better. im sure that some of the suspension forum moderators will tell you the same.
and my setup isnt that extreme (at least i dont think it is). my suggestion would be to try autocrossing with what you have and become a good driver first, then spend money on parts as you need them, then become better. im sure that some of the suspension forum moderators will tell you the same.
jw, whats a " "drift bible" front brake light "?
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Originally Posted by fuzzylogic426
jw, whats a " "drift bible" front brake light "?
Originally Posted by Boilermaker1
we all DD our cars. STS rules are intended to keep cars in "Run what you brung" form, i.e. stock + Suspension and sticky tires. There's no reason why you can't DD your car.
You trade off a little bit of bumpy ride for the handling, but if you keep the stock 185/65s around for DD, its deciently comfy, just strap on the sticky tires for races (most of us do that too). The thing that may cause the most problems is the alignment.... my advice is to DD on very hard tires that last a while so the negative camber doesn't eat at them too badly, and don't care about the sticky ones, you'll trash them anyways.
You trade off a little bit of bumpy ride for the handling, but if you keep the stock 185/65s around for DD, its deciently comfy, just strap on the sticky tires for races (most of us do that too). The thing that may cause the most problems is the alignment.... my advice is to DD on very hard tires that last a while so the negative camber doesn't eat at them too badly, and don't care about the sticky ones, you'll trash them anyways.
You mentioned the camber as it being one of the main concerns for a DD/race car, but how much are we talking about here?
Something like: -1 in the front, -2 in the rear?
Autocross Junky
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada, US
Rep Power: 380 The tokicos will survive... problem I see with your setup is the same one I have... Soft Progressive rated springs. in the beginning they'll be fine, as you learn to drive the car better and better, they will start hampering you more and more. (I for example tend to hit the bumpstops on the front end on long sweepers.... not a good thing and only adds in understeer) Other then that, i'd definitly be nice to have an adjustible damper, helps with fine tuning.
for the alignment.... given your soft springs.... get as much negitive camber on the nose as you can get. (for handling) but for DD.. some where between -1 and -2 on the nose would be good, a bit less then that on the rear (more negitive camber on the nose = less understeer)
for the alignment.... given your soft springs.... get as much negitive camber on the nose as you can get. (for handling) but for DD.. some where between -1 and -2 on the nose would be good, a bit less then that on the rear (more negitive camber on the nose = less understeer)
