streetglower

iTrader: (13)

is the check engine light still on?

AlienX

iTrader: (2)

same thing hpned to be w/old tranny...
i had incorrect gear ratio, i think same code u pointed out. whole tranny was dead, but main cause was solenoids...
test them.

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

i am about to the point of just finding a wrecker that can tow a lowered car(if possible not taking the front bumper off) and sending it to honda and let them scan it and see what they can do. Everyone i have talked to says its got to be something electrical.

On my old tranny the check engine light code that came up was torque converter, pump and solienoid. Now its the shift control system code. What next? LOL

Has anyone ever had a lowered car towed before on a roll back or something?

Injen

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

no, it hasnt come on since i took it back to the mechanic and he reset the ecu. Strange huh!?

Injen

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

you think the solenoids could go bad on the tranny quick. When he installed it he said it ran perfect then when i got it, 3 miles is all it lasted till it slipped

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

ALSO, i can take i noticed after he had it installed and i drove it, that when the tranny slipped i could park it, shut it off, put it in gear but it wouldnt go far.

I dont know what to do really.

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

how hard is it to test them? I seen that FAQ you posted.

Injen

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

yea I have had mine towed while being lowered. Have it towed on a flat bed. And most tow places will ask you if you are lowered or not.

Anyway, I think your problem comes down to either a bad tranny or some bad soleniods. Because with the code that you are getting, it gives alot of diagnostics for the soleniods. And if it isnt that, it is a bad tranny or a problem with the hydraulic system in the tranny.

I say either get the dealer to look at it or another tranny shop. Sorry you are having bad luck.

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

ya, it sucks... if its the whole tranny then i will be really suprised and i will just rebuild my old one and sell this one lol.

Wonder how much honda will charge me? I dont think i can get a loan lol.

Thanks for you guys' help so far.

Injen

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

well I dont know how your honda does labor, but mine charges $45 to look at your car and tell you what the problem is. $45 is for each problem.

Call them and ask them, maybe they can tell you, and you put on the parts.

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

i pray its just bad solenoids and nothing else like a ecu or tranny... Please pray with me!!!

Since the tranny worked fine at first and will go into every gear after a few seconds do you think the tranny is good and its just an electrical problem Alien or Street?

injen

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

I want to tell you its just an electrical problem, but I really dont know. I dont have much training with automatic trannies, so I dont know much about them, just some stuff here and there, but it could be anything. I am still stuck on the trouble code you gave me, but other then that, honda might be able to best tell you. It could be as simple as just programming the tranny to the ECU. Best bet is to have someone look at it. And whoever looks at it, remind them you did have a check engine light on.

AlienX

iTrader: (2)

doesnt seem elect to me. Have a tranny specalist test the solenoids, i might be some work for u if u dont have the equipment`

AlienX

iTrader: (2)

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2001/techtotechpf.htm

good read and it seems like whats happening to u

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

hmmm, looks like i will just take it to honda, or would you recommend a tranny shop?

injen

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

find out who is cheaper to look at it. Also some tranny shops do better work then dealers because they specialize in trannys. But at the same time, Honda might have the right equipment to do whats needed. If it was me, I would call honda and see how much they charge to look. And do the same with several tranny shops. Whoever is cheapest would be who I would go to.

dj02

iTrader: (8)

thats what i do when looking for a shop. once i get a couple of prices, i call them back and tell them this place is chargeing me cheaper, and see if they can match them. kind of trick them.

ex:ill call 4 tranny shops and get a prices of. 250, 260, 270, 280 (this is just a example) then ill call the most expensive shop and move my way down and say hey some one just quoted me 240 can u match it? at the end of it if no one can match it. i just go to the cheapest one of 250. this works ive done it many times.

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

^ ya i have done that before. I am gonna call honda tomorrow and see what their labor rates are and some other tranny shops around here.

Injen

2k2civic

iTrader: (1)

For your sake, I do hope it's a sensor or solenoid. However, when I blew my trans, my ECU was throwing an "incorrect gear ratio" code. Not sure what the exact problem was, but Honda ended up replacing the entire trans with a rebuilt.

BTW, I had no 3rd, it would shift out of second and would just rev like it was in neutral. What was fun though was the fact that if I got up to speed in 2nd and let of the throttle and got back on it ever so gently it would get into 4th and stay there. Interesting stuff.

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

do you guys think the the solenoid could have gotten so hot that its caused it to malfunction?

Injen

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

who knows, its a possibility. Now I did look in the manaul and found the section on how to test all the solenoids, if you want I can post how to test them all if you want?

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

alienx posted one up but i dont have a voltage meter, so if this one requires it dont... well ya go ahead it might shed some light for me.

Can you believe honda didnt even give me a manual or floormats when i first got my car and i to go get floormats and still dont have a manual.

Injen

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

well yes it does require a volt meter because you need to check the resistance on the solenoids. Give me a little bit and I will post them up in the thread and when you get a meter you can possibly check them.

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

^ i can steal ***cough***cough***; borrow one from work.



Injen

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

streetglower- did you get that info yet? I plan on testing them tomorrow

Injen

injencivic

iTrader: (7)

would it downshift when you came to a stop? Mine will downshift.

Injen

2k2civic

iTrader: (1)

Ya, it would downshift when I came to stop. You just may have the same problem. Just not sure what could have caused this. I could see it being possible if your mechanic didn't put enough fluid in the trans and possible screwed something up. But transmissions are not my area or expertise and I'm just speaking from my experience and thought maybe it would help you.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

Yes I have it I just forgot to post it. Let me get my manaul and I will post it here in a few minutes when I fully wake up.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

ok here are the test procedures fo some of the solenoids.

Shift Solenoid Valve A and B test:

Measure the resistance between the #1 terminal of the shift solenoid valve A and B connecter and body ground, and measure the resistance between the #2 terminal of the shift solenoid Valve B connecter and body ground. Should be between 12-25 ohms. this is the connecter coming off of the valve. Not the one that plugs into the connecter on the valve.

If the resistance is out of standards replace the solenoid valve. It is one valve for both A and B, they are connected.

If the resistance is within spec, connect the number 1 terminal of the shift solenoid valve A to the battery positive terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. connect the number 2 terminal to the battery positive terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. If a clicking sound isnt heard on either terminal, replace the solenoid valve.


Torque Converter Clutch solenoid valve test:

Measure the resistance between the #1 and #2 terminals of the torque converter solenoid valve connecter. Should be between 12-25 Ohms. If not, replace.

If it is within specs, connect the number 2 terminal to the battery positive terminal and the number 1 terminal to the battery negative terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. Replace the valve if no clikcing sound is heard when connecting the battery positive terminal.



A/T Clutch control solenoid valve A and B test:

measure the AT clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B resistance between each solenoid valve connecter terminals No. 1 and No. 2. there are 2 connecters so measure the resistance on both between each terminal of the valve connecter. should be between 3-10 Ohms. If either is out of spec, replace both valves.

If it is within standard, connect the battery negative terminal to AT clutch pressure solenoid valve A and B connecter terminal No. 1 and connect the battery positive terminal to the terminal No. 2 clicking should be heard.

If no clicking is heard remove the solenoid valves A and B.

remove the mounting bolts and remove the valve, it is one valve with 2 connecters. Then connect the battery negative terminal to the valve A and B connecter terminal no. 1 and connect the battery positive terminal to the terminal no.2. Make sure the AT clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B move.

Disconnect one of the battery terminals and check valve movement at the fluid passage in the valve body surface. If it binds or moves slugishly, or if it does not operate, replace it. If there is dirt, clean it and repeat the diagnosis.


Ok now let me explain where all of these are located to the best I can. And how you can determine which terminal is no. 1 or no. 2.

On the shift solenoid valve A and B, look for a valve on the tranny that has 2 cap looking things on it with 1 terminal. and 3 mounting bolts. that will be it. Now to determine which terminal is which, when you pull the connecter off of the valve connecter, the top of the valve connecter has the ridges in it where the opposing connecter slids and connects into it. the left terminal is 1 and the right terminal is 2.

Make sure if it needs to be replaced, that you use a new gasket/filter.

The torque converter clutch solenoid valve, to detrmine which one it is, this valve has one cap looking thing with one connecter. the same thing with the connecter, the top will have ridges where the opposing connecter connects to it and the left terminal is 1 and the right terminal is 2. this valve is close somewhere to the intake resonator.

Now for the AT clutch pressure control solenoid valve, look for 2 connecters connected to a square block looking ordeal. that will be the valve, 2 connections on 1 valve. now when looking at this valve on the tranny, the top connecter is valve B and the bottom connecter is valve A. Valve B has a black wire while valve A has a brown wire. same thing when looking at the connecter of the valve, the top has ridges on it and the left terminal is 1 and the right is 2.

With all valves the gasket needs to be replaced if replacing the valve.

Hope this helps you, if you have any other questions, let me know.