AMSOil Drain interval and product
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AMSOil Drain interval and product
Hey everybody,
I just bought some AMSOil Synthetic oil and an AMSOil filter.
According to the specs - the AMSOil Synthetic is supposed to go 25,000 and the filter is supposed to go 12,500 miles. I plan on changing the oil and filter at 12,000 - much shorter than the recommended drain interval but it STILL seems like a loooooong time between oil changes.
FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT USE AMSOil ....
How often do you change oil. And which product do you use?
From what I can see - they seem to have 3 products:
XL-7500 = 7500 miles
100% Synthetic = 25,000 miles
Series 2000 = 35,000 miles
I just bought some AMSOil Synthetic oil and an AMSOil filter.
According to the specs - the AMSOil Synthetic is supposed to go 25,000 and the filter is supposed to go 12,500 miles. I plan on changing the oil and filter at 12,000 - much shorter than the recommended drain interval but it STILL seems like a loooooong time between oil changes.
FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT USE AMSOil ....
How often do you change oil. And which product do you use?
From what I can see - they seem to have 3 products:
XL-7500 = 7500 miles
100% Synthetic = 25,000 miles
Series 2000 = 35,000 miles
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http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
Do an oil analysis at 7500 and just keep checking it and watching the levels.
Do an oil analysis at 7500 and just keep checking it and watching the levels.
Here's a good site to read about it;
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php
From what I've read, you'd be pressing your luck waiting that long. And you really do need to do oil analysis if you're goint to try to go that long. Since our cars don't really hold alot of oil, it wears out faster then other vehicles.
I use the the 100% synthetic, and change it every 10,000 miles, and the filter every 5,000.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php
From what I've read, you'd be pressing your luck waiting that long. And you really do need to do oil analysis if you're goint to try to go that long. Since our cars don't really hold alot of oil, it wears out faster then other vehicles.
I use the the 100% synthetic, and change it every 10,000 miles, and the filter every 5,000.
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Synthetic oil viscocity does last mush longer than "dyno" oil, but what a lot of people fail to realize is that any type of engine oil becomes contaminated with water and other polutants. So running any oil over 8,000 miles isn't a good idea, there's no oil filter out there that can remove polutants and contaminates. Plus its always a good idea to change all the oil and filter at the same time, because if you don't you're mixing new oil with dirty oil.
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thanks for the replies - i'm running this in a VW passat v6 - 6 quarts of 5w30 - not on a civic with 4 quarts of 5w20 (if that makes any difference)
im definitely not going to run it to the max of 25,000. I'm gonna cut it short at 12,000 which is a little less than half - 2000 miles more than you MarkM01. Remember this is not Mobil1 or Syntec. This is AMSOil 100% synthetic - not the mix stuff xl7500 from AMSoil. Its the middle product that is supposedly made to last 25,000 miles and really expensive. If i don't run it 12,000 its not worth it for me. Hmmmm. And that oil analysis place - woa - $20 each time?
I've been running "dyno" on this baby faithfully changing it every 3000 for $15 each time for 122,000 miles so far. I've been avoiding synthetic because of the cost. I just realized tho that if I can run AMSoil for 12,000 miles - the cost is a few bucks less than "dyno" AND I dont have to change it as often (at my rate im changing oil every 4-5 weeks)
Anybody else have an opinion?
im definitely not going to run it to the max of 25,000. I'm gonna cut it short at 12,000 which is a little less than half - 2000 miles more than you MarkM01. Remember this is not Mobil1 or Syntec. This is AMSOil 100% synthetic - not the mix stuff xl7500 from AMSoil. Its the middle product that is supposedly made to last 25,000 miles and really expensive. If i don't run it 12,000 its not worth it for me. Hmmmm. And that oil analysis place - woa - $20 each time?
I've been running "dyno" on this baby faithfully changing it every 3000 for $15 each time for 122,000 miles so far. I've been avoiding synthetic because of the cost. I just realized tho that if I can run AMSoil for 12,000 miles - the cost is a few bucks less than "dyno" AND I dont have to change it as often (at my rate im changing oil every 4-5 weeks)
Anybody else have an opinion?
Originally Posted by solar
Synthetic oil viscocity does last mush longer than "dyno" oil, but what a lot of people fail to realize is that any type of engine oil becomes contaminated with water and other polutants. So running any oil over 8,000 miles isn't a good idea, there's no oil filter out there that can remove polutants and contaminates. Plus its always a good idea to change all the oil and filter at the same time, because if you don't you're mixing new oil with dirty oil.
Originally Posted by wawacito
thanks for the replies - i'm running this in a VW passat v6 - 6 quarts of 5w30 - not on a civic with 4 quarts of 5w20 (if that makes any difference)
im definitely not going to run it to the max of 25,000. I'm gonna cut it short at 12,000 which is a little less than half - 2000 miles more than you MarkM01. Remember this is not Mobil1 or Syntec. This is AMSOil 100% synthetic - not the mix stuff xl7500 from AMSoil. Its the middle product that is supposedly made to last 25,000 miles and really expensive. If i don't run it 12,000 its not worth it for me. Hmmmm. And that oil analysis place - woa - $20 each time?
I've been running "dyno" on this baby faithfully changing it every 3000 for $15 each time for 122,000 miles so far. I've been avoiding synthetic because of the cost. I just realized tho that if I can run AMSoil for 12,000 miles - the cost is a few bucks less than "dyno" AND I dont have to change it as often (at my rate im changing oil every 4-5 weeks)
Anybody else have an opinion?
im definitely not going to run it to the max of 25,000. I'm gonna cut it short at 12,000 which is a little less than half - 2000 miles more than you MarkM01. Remember this is not Mobil1 or Syntec. This is AMSOil 100% synthetic - not the mix stuff xl7500 from AMSoil. Its the middle product that is supposedly made to last 25,000 miles and really expensive. If i don't run it 12,000 its not worth it for me. Hmmmm. And that oil analysis place - woa - $20 each time?
I've been running "dyno" on this baby faithfully changing it every 3000 for $15 each time for 122,000 miles so far. I've been avoiding synthetic because of the cost. I just realized tho that if I can run AMSoil for 12,000 miles - the cost is a few bucks less than "dyno" AND I dont have to change it as often (at my rate im changing oil every 4-5 weeks)
Anybody else have an opinion?
Doing the oil anaylsis is kind of a pain, but you'd only have to do it a few times. Once you learn your car can go "X" amount of miles on an oil change, your done with them. Assuming you engine stays in good running condition.
wawacito,
I'm not saying that Amsoil misrepresents the interval changes to sell you something but instead, I'll call it, um, marketing.
What kind of shape will the oil be in at 25k? It'll still be called oil, but what kind of crude will be in it? What will the TBN be? Will it have thickened up to an unacceptable level? Will fuel dilution have eliminated any advantage you thought you had? The filter will still be working but if the filter is full of crude then the bypass will kick in and you'll have unfiltered dirty oil running through your engine. I doubt this is what you had in mind but these are the type of questions you need to ask before jumping blindly into long change intervals.
I'd strongly recommend that you do not start off with 12k intervals based on Amsoil marketing alone. As others have suggested, your car may not like Amsoil and the only way to tell is through UOA. It's kind of an inverse relationship - the longer the want to keep the oil in the more important UOAs become. I'd even go so far as to say that they are critical for extreme intervals. On the other hand if you're changing oil every 3-5k science tells us that almost any oil will still have service life left in it and a UOA will be worthless.
Amsoil is a good product but don't put blind faith in their marketing hype. Their oil wasn't tested in your engine for the interval you want before they recommended 25k changes.
I don't think I'd poo-poo M1 or Syntec. On BOBITG you can find many references, backed up by UOAs, for German Syntecwhich is probably one of the most remarkably superior oils you can currently buy. It works extremely well in a variety of applications. M1 is also another excellent oil that I'd use in a heartbeat.
You mentioned cost. Since M1 or Syntec is about half the cost of Amsoil, you could change your oil twice as often for the same price. You'd have the benefit of fresh oil and a clean filter and this would be my suggestion if you're not inclined to do UOAs.
Bottom line for me: Buy M1 at WalMart for the good price, use the Purolator PureOne filter, change it every 6k, screw the idea of UOAs and smile admirably at yourself in the mirror because you've got better protection than 99% of other drivers. With the savings buy beer to consume while changing oil.
I'm not saying that Amsoil misrepresents the interval changes to sell you something but instead, I'll call it, um, marketing.
What kind of shape will the oil be in at 25k? It'll still be called oil, but what kind of crude will be in it? What will the TBN be? Will it have thickened up to an unacceptable level? Will fuel dilution have eliminated any advantage you thought you had? The filter will still be working but if the filter is full of crude then the bypass will kick in and you'll have unfiltered dirty oil running through your engine. I doubt this is what you had in mind but these are the type of questions you need to ask before jumping blindly into long change intervals.
I'd strongly recommend that you do not start off with 12k intervals based on Amsoil marketing alone. As others have suggested, your car may not like Amsoil and the only way to tell is through UOA. It's kind of an inverse relationship - the longer the want to keep the oil in the more important UOAs become. I'd even go so far as to say that they are critical for extreme intervals. On the other hand if you're changing oil every 3-5k science tells us that almost any oil will still have service life left in it and a UOA will be worthless.
Amsoil is a good product but don't put blind faith in their marketing hype. Their oil wasn't tested in your engine for the interval you want before they recommended 25k changes.
I don't think I'd poo-poo M1 or Syntec. On BOBITG you can find many references, backed up by UOAs, for German Syntecwhich is probably one of the most remarkably superior oils you can currently buy. It works extremely well in a variety of applications. M1 is also another excellent oil that I'd use in a heartbeat.
You mentioned cost. Since M1 or Syntec is about half the cost of Amsoil, you could change your oil twice as often for the same price. You'd have the benefit of fresh oil and a clean filter and this would be my suggestion if you're not inclined to do UOAs.
Bottom line for me: Buy M1 at WalMart for the good price, use the Purolator PureOne filter, change it every 6k, screw the idea of UOAs and smile admirably at yourself in the mirror because you've got better protection than 99% of other drivers. With the savings buy beer to consume while changing oil.
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assuming 6 quarts for my VW
"dyno"
approx $2 per quart
filter approx $4
total cost of oil change = $16
interval 3000
"mobil1"
approx $5 per quart
filter approx ?
total cost of oil change = $30 + filter
interval 6000
"amsoil 100%"
approx $6 per quart
filter approx $11
total cost of oil change = $47
interval 12000
same interval with mobil1 = $60 + 2 filters
same interval with dyno = $64
If it really does go 12000 - then amsoil is the cheapest and most convenient (less frequent oil changes = more convenient). if it doesnt go 12000 then its the most expensive. if mark1M is right then you can definitely go over 8000 with this oil because other people HAVE done oil analysis past 8000. I'd like to see those articles or posts if you can find em.
the oil is supppposed to run 25,000 - but im not taking it that far - so even with "marketing" factored in -i think im safe. I'm not even going half of their "guaranteed" maximum (according to AMSoil - i know i need to take it with a grain of salt BUT - they guarantee, not recommend, 25000 miles). and the filter is rated for 12,500 miles. I'm under cutting that one by 500 miles. perhaps I might need to change the filter at 6,000 lets say. even so - AMSOil would be almost the same cost as dyno.
12000 miles - 6 quarts
AMS oil - $6 X 7 (one extra) + $11 + $11 = $64
(one oil change + top off oil + 2 filters)
Mobil1 - $5 x 12 + 2 filters = $60 + 2 filters
(2 oil changes)
Dyno - $2 x 24 + $4 x 4 = $64
(4 oil changes)
"dyno"
approx $2 per quart
filter approx $4
total cost of oil change = $16
interval 3000
"mobil1"
approx $5 per quart
filter approx ?
total cost of oil change = $30 + filter
interval 6000
"amsoil 100%"
approx $6 per quart
filter approx $11
total cost of oil change = $47
interval 12000
same interval with mobil1 = $60 + 2 filters
same interval with dyno = $64
If it really does go 12000 - then amsoil is the cheapest and most convenient (less frequent oil changes = more convenient). if it doesnt go 12000 then its the most expensive. if mark1M is right then you can definitely go over 8000 with this oil because other people HAVE done oil analysis past 8000. I'd like to see those articles or posts if you can find em.
the oil is supppposed to run 25,000 - but im not taking it that far - so even with "marketing" factored in -i think im safe. I'm not even going half of their "guaranteed" maximum (according to AMSoil - i know i need to take it with a grain of salt BUT - they guarantee, not recommend, 25000 miles). and the filter is rated for 12,500 miles. I'm under cutting that one by 500 miles. perhaps I might need to change the filter at 6,000 lets say. even so - AMSOil would be almost the same cost as dyno.
12000 miles - 6 quarts
AMS oil - $6 X 7 (one extra) + $11 + $11 = $64
(one oil change + top off oil + 2 filters)
Mobil1 - $5 x 12 + 2 filters = $60 + 2 filters
(2 oil changes)
Dyno - $2 x 24 + $4 x 4 = $64
(4 oil changes)
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Originally Posted by MarkM01
People that use this oil, and have it analyzed have proved your statement to be wrong. You absolutely can run this oil longer then 8,000. Yes, if you have anti-freeze mixing in with your oil, then the oil is comprimised. But you should know if this is happening, and have it fixed.
Oh Boy, you're not getting the point here, NO oil, none, can resist contamination, the water I was talking about was condisation. If you've ever got into your car in the morning and all the windows are fogged up on the inside with a bunch of moisture, the same thing is happening inside your engine. Plus you're also getting pollutants from the crankcase ventalation system. So if you go 25,000 miles or even 12,000 miles the oil is very contaminated.
I'm sure the maker of Amsoil is going to say it can resist this, but any company is going to say great things about their product. If you really want to keep your car for a long time, change the oil evry 5,000 miles or less. I have a old Ford van with 234,000 miles on it and a 90 Mustang GT with 130,000 miles. Both have used nothing but dyno oil with oil changes every 3,000 miles or 6 months, with no problems. Plus my Van gets beat on hard, its pulling trailers and other equipment, and I've never touched the engine, and it still runs fine.
Just because oil CAN go 12k or 25k or whatever they claim, doesn't mean it ALWAYS will in your application. I agree with solar, and we've got hundreds of thousands of miles on our datsuns on dyno every 4k. In the long run, it will be more convenient for you to just get Mobil1 and change it every 5k or so. I get 6qts for $22 at Costco btw.
ps. I forgot this was for a Vdub. If it's anything like my brother's old GTI, keep a close eye on the oil and definetly don't push any oil in that thing for that long.
ps. I forgot this was for a Vdub. If it's anything like my brother's old GTI, keep a close eye on the oil and definetly don't push any oil in that thing for that long.
Last edited by Sickboy; Dec 17, 2004 at 10:45 AM.
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ok i got a can of the stuff and it seems i read the label wrong - it says "up to 25,000" - not guaranteed 25,000.
"Provides exceptional protection over extended drain intervals of up to 25,000 miles or one year*, whichever comes first when used in gaoline fueled personal passenger vehicles"
The footnote (*) reads: "When used in mechanically sound engines. Replace AMSOIL oil filter at 12,500 miles or six month intervals, whichever comes first (other brands as specified by the vehicle manufacturer)."
hmmm so basically you're all telling don't believe the 25,000 mile recommendation
don't even trust the 25,000 mile recommendation to go less than half - 12000.
that sucks.
i was hoping i could believe it.
for you - 3000 miles might be 6 months.
if that were true in my case I wouldnt even care about this issue - i would just use dyno.
but i do 3000 miles in 1 month. which means i have to change my oil every month. the mere thought of being able to go 4 months without an oil change (12000 miles) was so frigin awesome that i believed i found a miracle.
well i already bought a setup so im gonna give it a shot. i'll report back as the miles rack up.
maybe - maybe - if im a bit better off financially i'll do the oil analysis. but if not - do you think that i could use oil color and feel to see if the oil is still good? i know its not as accurate as a real oil analysis, but at least it will tell me if i even NEED to do an oil analysis at that point.
ps = sickboy - can i borrow your costco card?
"Provides exceptional protection over extended drain intervals of up to 25,000 miles or one year*, whichever comes first when used in gaoline fueled personal passenger vehicles"
The footnote (*) reads: "When used in mechanically sound engines. Replace AMSOIL oil filter at 12,500 miles or six month intervals, whichever comes first (other brands as specified by the vehicle manufacturer)."
hmmm so basically you're all telling don't believe the 25,000 mile recommendation
don't even trust the 25,000 mile recommendation to go less than half - 12000.
that sucks.
i was hoping i could believe it.
for you - 3000 miles might be 6 months.
if that were true in my case I wouldnt even care about this issue - i would just use dyno.
but i do 3000 miles in 1 month. which means i have to change my oil every month. the mere thought of being able to go 4 months without an oil change (12000 miles) was so frigin awesome that i believed i found a miracle.
well i already bought a setup so im gonna give it a shot. i'll report back as the miles rack up.
maybe - maybe - if im a bit better off financially i'll do the oil analysis. but if not - do you think that i could use oil color and feel to see if the oil is still good? i know its not as accurate as a real oil analysis, but at least it will tell me if i even NEED to do an oil analysis at that point.
ps = sickboy - can i borrow your costco card?
I'd suggest that you start off with 6k and spend the $20 for an UOA. This will tell you what you need to know.
If you're running 3k miles/month and it's almost all highway, I think your oil will meet your expectations but that's why you need UOA. My view is that your Amsoil will carry you to 7.5k miles but it should be analyzed at 6k.
Unfortunately, the "eye dyno" won't tell you when you need to change oil. The color of fresh oil can vary with each manufacturing lot. Contaminates change color. Feeling the oil doesn't do much except make your fingers messy. What criteria do you have in mind for the "feel" test?
We're all looking for the Holy Grail of oil but it isn't there yet. I applaude your decision to go with extended intervals because you're trying to be a smart consumer. It's all a balance, as is most of life, I suppose.
If you're running 3k miles/month and it's almost all highway, I think your oil will meet your expectations but that's why you need UOA. My view is that your Amsoil will carry you to 7.5k miles but it should be analyzed at 6k.
Unfortunately, the "eye dyno" won't tell you when you need to change oil. The color of fresh oil can vary with each manufacturing lot. Contaminates change color. Feeling the oil doesn't do much except make your fingers messy. What criteria do you have in mind for the "feel" test?
We're all looking for the Holy Grail of oil but it isn't there yet. I applaude your decision to go with extended intervals because you're trying to be a smart consumer. It's all a balance, as is most of life, I suppose.
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for color i would be comparing the color against new oil color.
for feel test i would be checking for loss of lubiness and also checking for grittiness.
when i put in fresh dyno - its cooking oil color. when it comes out its black. and in the oil drain pan - u get just a liiiittle bit of grit.
for feel test i would be checking for loss of lubiness and also checking for grittiness.
when i put in fresh dyno - its cooking oil color. when it comes out its black. and in the oil drain pan - u get just a liiiittle bit of grit.
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Oil in - 6 quarts - at 123400 miles
Oil out - 4.5 quarts - at 129700 miles
total miles - 6300
time - 71 days
burn off - 33%
color - black - but definitely much lighter than dyno after 3000 miles.
no oil analysis needed. They already fail in my book with the burn off ratio.
I decided to just go with just any synthetic that comes in a 5 quart jug from Walmart.
currently running Quaker State advanced engine full synthetic.
Will try valvoline, Mobile1, and Castrol when i see it.
Oil out - 4.5 quarts - at 129700 miles
total miles - 6300
time - 71 days
burn off - 33%
color - black - but definitely much lighter than dyno after 3000 miles.
no oil analysis needed. They already fail in my book with the burn off ratio.
I decided to just go with just any synthetic that comes in a 5 quart jug from Walmart.
currently running Quaker State advanced engine full synthetic.
Will try valvoline, Mobile1, and Castrol when i see it.
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