Vtec on my EX seems dosn't work???
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From: so cal djmota=oscar
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if your vtec is not engaging your car would be SUPER slow. I mean it would have a hard time reaching 60 mph. If this is the case the take it to the dealer.
Originally Posted by xproductionz
haha... are u kidding... the car would still run with the vtec off.. lol.. and would still reach 60 easily as if it were a dx/lx.... but....nevermind.. why bother
Originally Posted by Mistro
I thought that in the EX if vtec stops working the ecu goes into "limp home" mode and dosen't let your go past 3k or thereabouts. If Vtec stops working in an EX it dosn't just become an LX all of a sudden.
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From: OH-IO
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haha. vtec is so cool man. do you have the DOHC VTEC stickers yet? if not, i suggest you get them so people know not to mess with you cause you got the VTEC.
VTEC > All
VTEC > All
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From: NV
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No I want dohc like the Si. You can always install the vtec light and see if the ecu is switching over to hi cam. Otherwise, the cel would come on if it's mechanical.
ur vtec isn't broken, because if it was, you wouldn't be able to go past 4000rpm and ur CEL would turn on....your probably wondering why you can't "hear" vtec, it's because our cars have this thing called 3-stage vtec...kicks in 3 times..and i absolutely hate it! cause there's nothing you can do to change the vtec settings without the cel light coming on
Originally Posted by gtracing
ur vtec isn't broken, because if it was, you wouldn't be able to go past 4000rpm and ur CEL would turn on....your probably wondering why you can't "hear" vtec, it's because our cars have this thing called 3-stage vtec...kicks in 3 times..and i absolutely hate it! cause there's nothing you can do to change the vtec settings without the cel light coming on
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From: NV
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I think ours is a dual stage, meaning it gets activated by rpms (around 3k), or by how far the pedal is pushed down. There really isn't any any for it to activate multiple times, since it's only changing the cam from low to hi profile. Those are the only two profiles available.
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Yeah tuning the vtec engagement with vafcII is more complicated than just raising the engagement point. There are other corrections that need to be made (ones that I don't know how to set).
yea.. u also need to learn how to adjust the fuel correction.. which is a pain in the butt if you dont have a dyno for regular EX.. but if you do a head swap then u dont even have to mess around with that... just put in the vtec engagment and add more fuel cause my ecu doesnt know when to add more fuel when the vtec kicks in
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Originally Posted by Gotti
"Mommy! Mommy! I broke my vtec!!!
"
"Thats what I really had to say one day to my mom. I dunno why, but my car started acting up one day. The CEL came on. Then, the car wouldn't go past 4k rpm. Took it to my friends dealer and hooked it up to the diagnostics computer. "VTEC System Failure" was the code it read. It started working again soon after. It was weird though, I checked my oil, but the dip stick was dry. And I changed my oil less than 4k ago. My car doesn't burn any oil either. **** this Honda. I can't wait till I trade it in.
actually i know what he is talking about on the 3 stage vtec. but i didnt think the new gen's had it. i found out about it on a website called howstuffworks.com. what it is between idle-3k only one of the intake valves open up, between 3k-5k(or something like that) both intake valves open up and between 5k-redline both intake valves open with the higher lift. from the websites info it said they were only put in euro spec D15B2's or something like that. thats what i know about it, supposed to save gas, not be a real big performer.
If you think vtec is not working it could be possible. I just found out when I put on my PnP head, I never pluged the vtec seleniod back in. No check engine light and I was boosting the whole time. Just had no top end and ran ultra rich because the ecu was adding fuel for the vtec and the car was staying on the fuel economy lobe which only opens the exhaust valves helf way restricting air flow.
Originally Posted by gearbox
So that's why your numbers were so low with the head on. 

Yup. I had to lean my car out about 20% just to make a little top end. The ecu adds alot of fuel when it engages vtec and you have no vtec hooked up. I dont have a dyno. But it felt good. About 270whp good or lets hope close to that number. The only problem is the shop says the lift of the cam is at the limit for the valves (all the way open). Good for the ported head. But, my shop says the valve springs will need to be changed soon and the re-grind cam will be put to some extra stress do to the excessive lift. I think an upgraded turbo will put me in the 300whp area.


