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DIY estimated time: 20 minites
Tools Needed: Flat head screw driver, Hammer (preferably rubber head hammer), 2 Jack stands, and a jack.

Step 1: Take of rear wheels. Once you have removed the wheels you will see what is found in the picture below:



Step 2: Bang the cover with a hammer where it says honda S5A and MAX*DIA*201MM. This will loosen the cover. I found the rubber headed hammer after I used the normal hammer .



Step 3: Try pulling the drum cover off. If it still doesnt come off try hitting it a couple more times. I used the hammer to take the cover off as seen below.


If its still to tough to take the cover off use 8 x 1.25 bolts and place them in the two small holes as seen in the picture below and screw them into the hole clockwise. This will loosen the cover for sure.



Now take the cover off. You should see something that looks like the picture below:



Step 4: Clean the shoes by using a Brake Cleaner and Degreaser
Step 5: Loosen the screw circled in the picture below by turning it towards you. Make sure you make the screw move down. Down will loose the screw while Making the screw move upwards will tighten the screw. Loosening the screw makes the shoes expand slightly. Loosen the screw so the clip clicks once.


Step 6: Place Cover back on.
Step 7: Spin the cover by holding on to the bolts. The cover should spin 1-2 times completely around (I was told this by the Honda technician when I was at the shop for a headlight recall). If your drum cover spins more then 1-2 times, repeat step 5 & 6 until the drum cover rotates only 1-2 times completely.

 
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So the adjuster isn't opposite of the cylinder? Interesting.

 
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interesting!

however..

my problem right now is that when i PRESS down my brake pedal, the brake shoes/drum make a stretching noise..

is it possible that the screw are over-loosen??

 
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Did you adjust them after install?

 
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what do you mean by , " Spin the cover by holding on to the bolts?"

can you explain how to do step 7 again?

 
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i think my mechanic turned them clockwise before putting them back after he replaced the brake shoes....is that ok?

 
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Storm, on #7 didn't you mean to put the wheel back on and spin 1-2 revs, that's how we always do it. You should first step on the brake pedal to reset the shoes as well.

 
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When I was at Hersons Honda (in Rockville, MD) I got my headlights fixed due to a recall and next to my car was another 2001 civic EX getting his shoes replaced. When the mechanic was adjusting the shoes he didnt place the wheel back on, he just put the drum cover back on and spun the drum cover by the bolts instead. I asked him how many rotations should a specific bolt (one of the four on your wheel) spin, and he said between 1-2. Less then 1 and its on to tight which will cause to much resistance when your car is in motion. To many rotations will cause your car to not stop correctly/fast enough.

 
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Look at the picture below:



Spin the wheel clockwise by holding on to the bolts from your wheel. The wheel will spin. Hopefully not a lot.

 
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wait....

so how do you spin them?

by holding into one bolt and rotate them around?

so....u mean that after 1-2 rotation, the drum should STOP?

 
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Yeah, I've worked on more drum brakes than I'd like to remember so I know all about adjusting. However, I've always done it with the wheel on. My datsun's adjusters are external so I just jack it up and adjust until I feel the right amount of resistance. Datsun engineering>Civic engineering.

 
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correct me this: after 1 or 2 rev, the wheel (without applying brake/hand brake) should STOP?

 
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waitttttttt..

so you apply some force and let the wheel rotate by itself??

 
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ok damn, the driver's ok....two rotations..

the other side f*cked up, 5 rotations...

 
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I guess you could do it with the tire on as well. I just did it with the the tire off.

 
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I would suggest not using a hammer, use the two bolts and back the drum off...

 
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I have a rubber mallet, but found it AFTER completing the adjustment.

 
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BTW its called a drum not a cover. As for spinning it, slide the drum on over the studs apply the brake pedal then go spin the drum. Does it spin Very easy MANY rotations with out stopping? If so they are still need adjusted more. Rinse and repeat until the 1-2 rotations hes talking about. If you cant get the drum to spin on its own atleast SOME after the adjustment then you have made it to tight.

 
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Most likely your brakes are WAY out of adjustment and the points where the brake shoes contact the backing plate is DRY and should be lubricated

 
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In this picture i wouldnt recomend hitting the drum in the area that you are showing.


If you can see the rusted area between the wheel studs? Using LIGHT hitting with a hammer along with penetrating oil can break the drum free if you dont have the 8 x 1.25 bolts. And be careful if your only using the bolts sometimes the drums will be so rusted that you can SPLIT the face of the drum by tightening the bolts to remove the drum. So use care when screwing the bolts into those holes. Sometimes a combination of the bolts and tapping the drum with a hammer is needed

 
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thanks for the reply.

however, i figured out that this situation is NORMAL..

you might think that the noise happened when i was driving and braking?

No, the noise happened when i was in IDLE condition.......

so, the car was not moving, pull your hand brake...and hit that brake pedal to the lowest level......i think your car will do the same noise as mine...

 
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damn i hate drum breaks. its the 21 centry phaze out thoes dinosaurs

 
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There is an adjustment hole in the back plate covered by a rubber plug. You can access the star wheel from there. Removing the drum and wheel is totally unnecessary unless you are doing work to the brakes. If you wish to remove the drum, you back off the star wheel and the drum can be removed with your hands... No hammer nor prying requred as the shoes won't catch on to the lip of the drum.

 
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actually your wrong mine dont make any noise at all from the rear driving or stationary. The noise is most likely caused from out of adjustment and or no lubrication on the wear points on the backing plate

 
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The hammer isnt required to get past any lip that may be there on the drum. It's mainly needed if the drum is rusted to the hub. This is VERY common.

 
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this is what im concerned right now..

what is wrong?

lubrication on the backing plate? can you tell me which part and what grease should i use??

adjustment? i think it's perfect....it rotates 1-2 times when i do em..

what's wrong?

 
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After using brake cleaner to clean everything, use a pry bar or a large screwdriver to lift the shoe away from the backing plate. Pry against the backing plateYou will see raised portions of the backing plate which contact the brake shoe. Use brake lubricant or high temperature copper grease to apply a thin film to these areas. Do this with both the primary and secondary shoes. Also, needless to say, wear goggles. Springs are under a great deal of tension. I should add, you can also remove all the hold down springs and shoes to do the lubrication as well, but it's a bit more work. You do this before you mount the brake shoes on.

 
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he...............interesting..

any brand for the grease?

right now im debating with myself...

should i change the drum and shoes again with the OEM parts?

 
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behind the brake shoes where they contact the backing plate, there should be 3 , maybe 4 contact points per brake shoe. Use a heavy grease and put just a small dab at each point

 
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no real benifit to changing to OEM shoes or drums IMO, and the 1-2 rotations is a approximation of the addjustment. Its really a feel that you get with experince of doing A LOT of brake jobs