Radiator/ ATF flush
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Radiator/ ATF flush
Hey wats up guys havent posted in a long time... but i think im due for a radiator flush, and a Automatic Transmission fluid change
I was just wonderin if its possible to do these two thangs ur self. If so i was just wonderin if any of you can plz post a DIY on how to do it...
Thanks for your help guys!
I was just wonderin if its possible to do these two thangs ur self. If so i was just wonderin if any of you can plz post a DIY on how to do it...
Thanks for your help guys!
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^Yes, you would need the machine to do that or you need to change the oil, take it for a drive, change the oil again and repeat I think two more times.
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i remember for my friends integra he had to change tranny fluid by takin out all dis shiet...and i was just wonderin if u guys could give me an idea on how to flush ma radiator thanks!
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Auto trans fluid is easier than oil change. All you do is open a bolt without even jacking up the car, drain fluid into a pan, put bolt back on, and pour new fluid in. Those pumps and stuff is a bad idea. Draining gets most of it out anyway, and that's what the dealers use.
Coolant flush--I had mine changed and the guys just opened a plug under the radiator and let it drain. Then you can keep squeezing the big hose going from radiator to thermostat on the engine to get more out.
Coolant flush--I had mine changed and the guys just opened a plug under the radiator and let it drain. Then you can keep squeezing the big hose going from radiator to thermostat on the engine to get more out.
your not getting all the a/t fluid out, and your not getting all the coolant out by doing the ways you suggested. im pretty sure dealers use machines to do both..and i wouldnt trust a mechanic who just drained the radiator fluid, squeezed the hoses, and said thats all there is to it.
what about the fluid thats in the block. there has to be a bolt on it that you can drop to get that fluid out. and i completely refuse to believe that you get all the a/t fluid out by simply undoing the plug, and letting it drain out.
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As long as most of it comes out, that's fine. It can actually cause harm if you use a machine to get al the fluid out. What happens when you start the car and there's no fluid in certain areas? Even the manual says you should do a drain and refill only. You can even do it a few times if you have the money to burn on more fluid.
Forget about pressure flushes, you're more likely to run into long term problems than the little bit of old ATF left (if you flush twice). Like Gearbox said, drain and refill ATF method is best because old lube is still better than no lube. Plus, it's not even hard so DIY.
Dragoon is probably talking about freeze plugs that are very common on old cars, like my datsun, but I'm not sure about our 7thgen. It would be better to get everything out of the block, but not at the expense of introducing crappy hose water filled with minerals (think showerhead buildup) onto your water pump and in your water jackets. Once again, in the long run, you are better off draining and refilling. Use Honda Coolant (Type II I think its called), it's supposed to be very good at preventing aluminum corrosion. Oh, and change your thermostat while you're at it. Such a simple cheap thing can really ruin your day, trust me.
Dragoon is probably talking about freeze plugs that are very common on old cars, like my datsun, but I'm not sure about our 7thgen. It would be better to get everything out of the block, but not at the expense of introducing crappy hose water filled with minerals (think showerhead buildup) onto your water pump and in your water jackets. Once again, in the long run, you are better off draining and refilling. Use Honda Coolant (Type II I think its called), it's supposed to be very good at preventing aluminum corrosion. Oh, and change your thermostat while you're at it. Such a simple cheap thing can really ruin your day, trust me.
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can I flush the radiator with no pressure with a purified water? I mean it went to a reverse osmosis and all to eliminate all the residue, so it wouldn't hurt anything right? for 25cents a gallon probably a 5 gallon flush would get all that extra crap in the bottom of the radiator...
just a thought coz i'm flushing my radiator soon, I think I'll do the purified water flush
just a thought coz i'm flushing my radiator soon, I think I'll do the purified water flush
Last edited by pnoyster2k1cvic; Jul 5, 2004 at 05:04 PM.
Water would help push the old coolant out but won't break down corrosion that is already there. That's what most radiator "flushs" are, detergents. If you do that, make sure you get every bit out or it will neutralize your new coolant. By "pressure flush" I meant pressure flushing the transmission, not the coolant system. This is just a gimmick to speed the process up, but does more harm than good.
Check your manual and you will see that the first ATF change is at 60,000 for severe then 90,000. The dealer only drains and refills with Honda Fluid, leaving half of the fluid in the Tranny, thus requiring you to come back in 30,000 miles instead of another 60,000 miles. Sorry, just wanted to point out the obvious. As for the Radiator flush, just drain and refill the radiator every summer and you will save a lot of hassle in the long run.
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Your car won't last long listening to Honda maintenance. I've already done my atf change at 18k miles, and again at 24k miles. I'd rather spend $20 for fluids rather than $4000 for a new tranny.
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