More Airbox Ramblings...
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More Airbox Ramblings...
Ok... well first off, my attempt to build a cold air box didn't go so well. It fits where I want it to go, but running the plumbing is gonna cause problems... the transmission, the clutch hardline and the battery are all in the way. I thought for sure I could get something through there, but nothing will go through in a way thats really effecient or clean.
So, moving right along... Plan B... put a stock ITR box into the car. Now... I'm sure someone out there's thinking, "Boiler, where the **** are you gonna get a stock ITR airbox?"
And I'm going to remind you that most ITRs aren't running around with stock boxes anymore, so there's a few floating around.... that and I think the GS-R box was the same.
Now the why....
you've all seen what our intake track looks like... tiny pipes, lots of turns, and my lawnmower uses a bigger air filter.... now, the teg box looks like this....
More importantly, it already uses a conical element (with bundles of options for high flow replacements), the piping is easy to re-rig, and the orientation of the inlet to the box allows for easy cold air extension attachment.... I have no plans on using the in-fender resonator.
Now basically this is what I'm thinking...
Obviously there has to be a 90 deg bend to the throttle, but beyond that, there shouldn't be much joging of the piping, just an extension to connect the the throttle to the stock Integra pipe (which would normally connect to a side mounted throttle body). If this fits, then there leaves open the possiblity to adapt this box into a cold air box, or just drop in the Integra Comptech Box.
In order for this to happen, I think the battery has to come out... and take a trip to the trunk. Not that thats really a bad thing, its just 40 lbs not in the front of the car anymore.
Surely someone is out there thinking this is charmingly ghetto, I assure you its not. Its already obvious that the filter on a stick intakes throw your low end right out the window... and obviously leaving the filter element closed in a box helps lessen that effect. So this would be the best of both worlds, and its basically a straight shot from the filter to the back of the engine bay (then over and down). I think this should work out pretty good, but as of now its just a theory.
I'm gonna at least poll the audience, has anyone made an attempt yet at rigging something like this up; using another stock intake or adapting anything else into the car in a similar fashion (dryer tube intakes don't count). And did it work?
I'm aware of a couple bracketing issues that need to be dealt with.... I'm prepared to fabricate a bracket to set the air box on. Other than that, no other new mounting points should be necessary.
I'm done now... who thinks I'm insane? And who thinks this could be genius?
So, moving right along... Plan B... put a stock ITR box into the car. Now... I'm sure someone out there's thinking, "Boiler, where the **** are you gonna get a stock ITR airbox?"
And I'm going to remind you that most ITRs aren't running around with stock boxes anymore, so there's a few floating around.... that and I think the GS-R box was the same.
Now the why....
you've all seen what our intake track looks like... tiny pipes, lots of turns, and my lawnmower uses a bigger air filter.... now, the teg box looks like this....
More importantly, it already uses a conical element (with bundles of options for high flow replacements), the piping is easy to re-rig, and the orientation of the inlet to the box allows for easy cold air extension attachment.... I have no plans on using the in-fender resonator.
Now basically this is what I'm thinking...
Obviously there has to be a 90 deg bend to the throttle, but beyond that, there shouldn't be much joging of the piping, just an extension to connect the the throttle to the stock Integra pipe (which would normally connect to a side mounted throttle body). If this fits, then there leaves open the possiblity to adapt this box into a cold air box, or just drop in the Integra Comptech Box.
In order for this to happen, I think the battery has to come out... and take a trip to the trunk. Not that thats really a bad thing, its just 40 lbs not in the front of the car anymore.
Surely someone is out there thinking this is charmingly ghetto, I assure you its not. Its already obvious that the filter on a stick intakes throw your low end right out the window... and obviously leaving the filter element closed in a box helps lessen that effect. So this would be the best of both worlds, and its basically a straight shot from the filter to the back of the engine bay (then over and down). I think this should work out pretty good, but as of now its just a theory.
I'm gonna at least poll the audience, has anyone made an attempt yet at rigging something like this up; using another stock intake or adapting anything else into the car in a similar fashion (dryer tube intakes don't count). And did it work?
I'm aware of a couple bracketing issues that need to be dealt with.... I'm prepared to fabricate a bracket to set the air box on. Other than that, no other new mounting points should be necessary.
I'm done now... who thinks I'm insane? And who thinks this could be genius?
Last edited by Boilermaker1; Mar 27, 2004 at 08:31 PM.
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Rep Power: 812 It could work. You're suggesting something similar to the volant intake that never came out of production. A box with a filter, then a pipe straight to the engine.
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I still intend to go behind the bumper, cut the fog light out and get a semi-ram effect going, but I guess the concept is similar. For what reason did that thing not come out?
I still intend to go behind the bumper, cut the fog light out and get a semi-ram effect going, but I guess the concept is similar. For what reason did that thing not come out?
Originally posted by player
What i want to do, is find some of that black pipe, and just hook it up streight from the throttel to behind the fog lights, why bother with the box in the middle
What i want to do, is find some of that black pipe, and just hook it up streight from the throttel to behind the fog lights, why bother with the box in the middle
Its already obvious that the filter on a stick intakes throw your low end right out the window... and obviously leaving the filter element closed in a box helps lessen that effect
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Rep Power: 0 i did a ghetto intake once, removed the resonator and made a PVC pipe that connected the stock air inlet tube and the stock airbox. PVC pipe wont melt, ive had it in there for two months and NO problems whatsoever.
so are you gonna use the stock integra air box AND the stock integra intake pipe between the filter and TB??
if you use JUST the box, you could just do the volant thingy, use a custom bracket to secure the integra airbox, then run a custom set of PVC piping and elbows to the throttle body, while drilling a whole for the air inlet directly into the head.
so are you gonna use the stock integra air box AND the stock integra intake pipe between the filter and TB??
if you use JUST the box, you could just do the volant thingy, use a custom bracket to secure the integra airbox, then run a custom set of PVC piping and elbows to the throttle body, while drilling a whole for the air inlet directly into the head.
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Rep Power: 0 I made my own intake, and I think it's just as good as anything on the market for an automatic car.
I removed the big silencer box, but I kept my stock filter, filter housing. There is a rubber grommet inside the housing, I took this out and turned it around so the angle part of the gromment was on the outside of the housing, this put a perfect 45 degree angle or so for an intake tube clamp onto. The 45 angles the tube exactly where it needs to go. I used a hose clamp to hold the tube to the grommet.
I then use a "shop-vac" black plastic hose extension, it's about a 2.5" hard plastic tube, and it's about the perfect length. I just had it off an old vacuum, so it was free. The color matches the rest of the engine, and it's plastic so it wont absorb and hold heat like a metal tube. The inlet of the tube is behind the battery near the inner fender.
I can post a pic sometime if anyone wants to see it,
.
I removed the big silencer box, but I kept my stock filter, filter housing. There is a rubber grommet inside the housing, I took this out and turned it around so the angle part of the gromment was on the outside of the housing, this put a perfect 45 degree angle or so for an intake tube clamp onto. The 45 angles the tube exactly where it needs to go. I used a hose clamp to hold the tube to the grommet.
I then use a "shop-vac" black plastic hose extension, it's about a 2.5" hard plastic tube, and it's about the perfect length. I just had it off an old vacuum, so it was free. The color matches the rest of the engine, and it's plastic so it wont absorb and hold heat like a metal tube. The inlet of the tube is behind the battery near the inner fender.
I can post a pic sometime if anyone wants to see it,
. 
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Thanks! I got a shop vac hose and th corrugated hose fits perfectly into the airbox opening. The other end fits perfectly into the square hole off to the side of the battery behind the headlight. I never thought of the part you put on though.
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by CuRiOuSfIsH
Wow, 90K miles... would be nice to wash it once in a while...
Wow, 90K miles... would be nice to wash it once in a while...
Red, you may want to try the strait tube if you get a change. Should work better as it would cause less turbulance.
Also, since you saw the pic, I went ahead and removed it, I didn't need anymore comments from these "experts". LOL, yeah right.
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Rep Power: 424 I don't see the point. You only solved half the problem. The resonator is now gone, so the airflow theoretically has sped up, but your flow is still limited by the lawnmower filter, and you still don't have a directed line of airflow into the throttle. Just pulling the resonator doesn't solve much.
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And what's the point in that Ace? I keep the outside in perfect shape and the engine running like new. Who gives a Fu@k what it looks like under the hood (well other then you wanna be's)? The onlyone looking under there is me!
Red, you may want to try the strait tube if you get a change. Should work better as it would cause less turbulance.
Also, since you saw the pic, I went ahead and removed it, I didn't need anymore comments from these "experts". LOL, yeah right.
And what's the point in that Ace? I keep the outside in perfect shape and the engine running like new. Who gives a Fu@k what it looks like under the hood (well other then you wanna be's)? The onlyone looking under there is me!
Red, you may want to try the strait tube if you get a change. Should work better as it would cause less turbulance.
Also, since you saw the pic, I went ahead and removed it, I didn't need anymore comments from these "experts". LOL, yeah right.
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by Boilermaker1
I don't see the point. You only solved half the problem. The resonator is now gone, so the airflow theoretically has sped up, but your flow is still limited by the lawnmower filter, and you still don't have a directed line of airflow into the throttle. Just pulling the resonator doesn't solve much.
I don't see the point. You only solved half the problem. The resonator is now gone, so the airflow theoretically has sped up, but your flow is still limited by the lawnmower filter, and you still don't have a directed line of airflow into the throttle. Just pulling the resonator doesn't solve much.
Never tested it, but I'm sure that sized filter is more then enough to feed an engine of this size, even in the paper type version. Or you could switch to a drop in oil gauze type of it'd make you fell better.
But if you need to justify the expense of the aftermarket intak, I understand,
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But if you need to justify the expense of the aftermarket intak, I understand, .
You can always get more air in, and a direct line increases the speed of the airflow going in since its directed flow and not passing through the filter, collecting again in the box, then going in the throttle. More speed = more air per given time. Not to mention my integra piping is conical, so it functions as a nozzle and makes the flow even FASTER. The filter can only pass so much air in. More surface area, MORE FLOW. More flow + more speed = More air in the combustion chamber = MORE POWER.
I thought this through, I knew what I was doing when I started doing it. You need to dump the whole system to get anything to work well.
Last edited by Boilermaker1; Apr 28, 2004 at 10:55 AM.
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I thought this through, I knew what I was doing when I started doing it. You need to dump the whole system to get anything to work well.
The bottom line is, they're both still SUCKING air in. If the air speeds up, it due to increased throttle, period. There's no "forced induction" going on here with these set ups. The restriction is the filter, and the engine doesn't care where it's at! It also doesn't care if it's conical or not. If it did, don't you think cars would come that way?
Regardless, if you think there is that much of a difference between the two, stick with what you've "thought out". I'd be totally amazed if there was so much as a 1hp difference between the two systems on a stock engine.
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It also doesn't care if it's conical or not. If it did, don't you think cars would come that way?
Go learn some fluid mechanics. If you can increase the speed, you can increase the pressure differential... if you can do that, you can suck harder. You're not just "sucking air in". Its not forced induction, its the complete opposite, its vaccum induction. Why the hell do you think turbos have to spool up? Are they just sucking air in too? Uh, no, its a vaccum pump, just like the engine is. Faster it spools, the more pressure it can build until the effeciency drops off.
Go find a text book and school yourself before you try to make up **** about something I know about.
