Rep Power: 285

http://www.7thgencivic.com/modules.p...&pid=12&page=4

does anyone actually tear the rubber seal off their new filter, lube it, put it back on the filter, then put the new filter onto the car? i couldnt believe it when i read it...just wondering if anyone here does that and can back up their reason for doing it..

oh yea, he also says to replace the drain bolt, i hope he doesnt mean to buy a new drain bolt...does anyone buy a new drain bolt for each oil change? i understand we have aluminum pans, but thats what the crush washer is for..

 
Rep Power: 282

I've always just lubed the outer rubber seal of the new oil filter with a dab of oil on my finger, and always used the original bolt and washer without any problems.

 
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i personally wouldnt tear the seal off. unnecessary, just lube it and tighten it by hand. as for always changing the drain bolt, there is no benefit unless it starts to look like it is being stripped. to avoid stripping, use the proper equipment (ie 17mm box end wrench). i always use a new crush washer, as they cost .19 cents and can be bought in bulk so why not. i torque with a torque wrench and thats it

 
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um nope. i just lube the outside with a little oil and screw it on. use the same plug to.

 
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Just lube the out side part of the seal put back the bolt and washer that’s it. This guy I know works for Honda for like 26years and he says you don’t need to change the washer every oil change and you don’t need to torque the bolt. If the washer and bolt is starting to wear then ya it is a good idea to change it. Most people just think that titer is better that is just stupid. But it makes you feel better the torque spec on most oil pan bolt is 10-15ft lbs.

 
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i agree with your process about changing filter but i disagree about the torquing. when you use a properly calibrate torque wrench, by torquing you are being precise and consistent. take this for example, how many of us shift by the tach and how many of us shift by the sound/feel of the motor. while you can be right on the money shifting, throw in some variable like a slipping clutch and it can throw off the **feeling**. same way with tighting any fastener, there might be some **variable** that distorts the **feeling**. for example, your drain bolt might be cracked or so on, and tightening by hand you can not see this. using a torque wrench everytime your a tightening the fastener the same amount everytime. 10 -15 lbs on the drain nut sound like honda tech or no honda tech. i learned along time ago that techs are not always the most reliable sources, engine builders give muuuuch more knowledge. being around engine builders has shown me alot, i even helped put one together once i torque everything to factory specs, have my torque wrench calibrated every year and while i may not know much about cars like other ppl on this board, i do all the work on my own car. undertightening the drain bolt can cause a small amount of oil to leak out, check to see if there is an oil film build-up on the bottom of your oil pan <<<<<<<----------this happened to me when i took my car at lube express for my 1st oil change and while i would rather it be undertightened than overtightened. btw, i took my car to honda for my 2nd oil change and the dumb *** tech partially stripped the drain bolt but put back on anyways i had a fun time getting it off. i promised myself i would start doing my own work MORAL----learn how to work on your own car, your are the only person you can trust that wont take shortcuts to save on time and $$$