opto_isolator

iTrader: (8)

Ok folks - I'm writing this to let those of you who want to attempt to install the E-manage on your own know - its a b!tch!

Actually, physically installing the E-manage isn't as difficult as was finding out what settings worked with my car. For some reason, Boosted2k2 had some different settings than I had used. His settings would not work for me.

For those of you who are familar with the E-manage, it can control ignition timing (+/- 20%), injector duty cycle (0-100%), and works similar to the S/VFAC by manipulating the MAP sensor signal.

There are three rotary switches on one side of the unit which determine which "engine" style your car is. Realistically this really doesn't matter - since there isn't a specific application listed for our car, so you need to be creative.

Boosted had his switches set to 4-8-B. This would only partially work for me. The car would run, start, and idle fine. However, whenever I would leave the ignition switch in the "ON" position, the E-Manage would blow the coil pack fuse. I tried many other settings as well, but finally settled on 4-8-C, which is what the S2000 uses. It even seems to list F20C under engine type for their application. This setting seemed to work just fine for me - the car would run, idle and no fuses would blow when I left the ignition in the "ON" position.

After setting the rotary switches you need to set the jumper settings on the board. There are 7 jumpers. The first two, JP1 and JP2 are kind of sketchy. I set JP1 and JP2 to pins 1 and 2. Again, boosted had different settings than I did. I'm really not sure who's setting is correct (since there are no applications listed for us). I went with this setting again, since the S2000 guys didn't have any problems with this setup.

JP1 determines the type of ignition system the car uses. With pins 1 and 2 shorted, the power originates from the ECU and runs to ground (as seen in the Helm manual). If 2 and 3 were shorted, the E-Manage would show 12+ volts to the ECU, which would cause a problem.

JP2 is a difficult jumper to set. Boosted set his to pins 2 and 3, I set mine to pins 1 and 2.

Pins 1 and 2 will provide the ignition coils with a 5 volt output pulse. Shorting pins 2 and 3 will provide a 12 volt output pulse to the ignition coils. I measured the output pulses from the ECU to the ignition coils with a volt meter and found them to be around .5 volts. So, I chose pins 1 and 2, which was closer to our ECU. Don't ask me why this works, as again, I (as well as others on the S2000 forums) have found the output from the ECU to be around .5 volts to the ignition coils.

Once you have these jumpers set, JP3, 4, 5, 6 , and 7 all pretty much determine if you want to enable the unit for V-TEC applications. Even though I have an LX I set the jumpers to what the manual specifies because if you don't, you might get error codes. The reason behind this is because when you select the type of engine you have with the rotary switches, certain combinations are hard coded in the E-Manage. It is expecting to have the jumpers set to work with V-TEC. Confused yet? Ok, to reiterate, I have an LX (no V-TEC) - but I have the jumpers set to USE V-TEC. The E-manage is just a dumb box. It almost does exactly what you tell it. So, if you don't enable the V-TEC modification map you won't throw any error codes. The jumper settings I used were:

JP3 2-3
JP4 1-2
JP5 OPEN
JP6 OPEN
JP7 OPEN

Now, the wiring. Again, boosted and I used different wiring for the ignition harness and injector harness. At this point, I am really not sure whos wiring is correct. Greddy told me to wire them per the firing order of the engine (ours is 1-3-4-2).

Example:

Channel 1 to Cylinder 1
Channel 2 to Cylinder 3
Channel 3 to Cylinder 4
Channel 4 to Cylinder 2

The S2000 guys all said the same thing. HOWEVER - Boosted, as well as the RSX E-Manage installation manual show to wire:

Channel 1 to Cylinder 1
Channel 2 to Cylinder 2
Channel 3 to Cylinder 3
Channel 4 to Cylinder 4

Again, I am not sure if both work, or if they work differently based on the rotary switch settings. I have attempted to play around with the timing and injector duty pulses tonight - and I do hear a difference in the engine and see a difference on the E-Manage data logging display. But without a timing light and 4 gas analyizer I cannot verify that these features are working.

In the E-Manage support tool software (sold separately) you can customize and change a lot of stuff around. You pretty much need the tool to tune your car, so don't skimp if you plan on oing the E-Manage route.

I'm getting tired now, so if anyone wants more I'll write more later.

Now for a little disclaimer, this really isn't an offical DIY - more of a "what to watch out for" if any of you attempt to do this yourself. Just be aware of this!

C2i0v0i1C

iTrader: (2)

and thats why my shop charges 600 bucks to install and 1 base map, boosted has a turbo and upped his FUEL PRESSURE, and doesnt have the need to adjust timing yet, might be a reason his settings didnt match, so my settings would definetly not work with urs either, for when u do go turbo, if u happen to use the missing link, do not use the boost cut option on the emanage as they counteract each other, known by experience, i couldnt tell u the first thing about the wiring as i didnt do my own nor do i tune my own. i do know that my timing is at like +1 for 5psi and -4 for 11-13 psi and my vtec is set for 4k, since u have a stock car with the emanage on it what is the stock fuel pressure,

as for GREDDY, they dont know **** about our cars dealing with the emanage. and when u call them and get the i dont know answer ill have to call u back and then they never call u back WTF is that, their tech support SUCKS, it just shows that there are some more inteligent people out there that know more about their product than they do

djmota

iTrader: (34)

thanks opto_isolator this is good stuff. Being able to maipulate our timing is a must have tool for making safe power. Keep us posted on the results.

futurersxswap

iTrader: (1)

no doubt.. iwant an emanage SOOOO bad... anyone dyno with and without boosted yet?

cambo

iTrader: (1)

V-TEC, VTECH, VTEK, V TEC, etc.

VTEC

still cant believe people mess this up.

cwick187

What the hell does it matter? I knew what he was talking about regardless People need to stop pointing out every little mistake just to get another post. Anyways, i can't wait to see some real #'s with this. Especially with an turbo application. Keep us posted and thanks for your insight on the install.

cheukkin

iTrader: (3)

Keep pointing out little mistake from other people....I really want to know how old is that guy.

aznboysrfr

iTrader: (10)

opto: hmm .. that's cool that you gave us a heads up to what kind of settings to use ...

... now if only you could show us (me) how to work the profec e-01 ... T_T;;;

opto_isolator

iTrader: (8)

To be honest, I don't have (and don't plan) on getting the profec.....I am going to use the laptop and have a tuner (or myself) tune it. I don't really need the profec since I want to use just plain gauges. I might get the greddy pressure sensor as well - it sort of is underplayed. From reading lots of posts tho, it is supposed to be more accurate at tuning vs just using the stock sensor. When the greddy sensor is connected up you can tune for boost vs RPM, not just throttle position vs RPM - a big difference in tuning.

Whomever complained about my spelling of VTEC, frankly I don't give a **** how its spelt. If you don't like my post than don't reply, no one asked you to.

I am going to get my hands on a timing light (hopefully soon) and verify what is all working and what isn't. I'll definitely report back my results and try to take a few photos if I can.

Wish me luck!

opto_isolator

iTrader: (8)

Good news! I bought a cheap timing light tonight from Autozone, didn't seem to know anyone else who had one!

I hooked it up, per the Helm Manual (to coil / cylinder #1) and checked the timing at idle. I than tried to advance and retard the timing by 3 degrees so that I could see a difference - and it worked!!

I than tried to see if the timing could be retarded around 2500 RPM. I found no problems as of yet with just playing around, the timing actually is adjusting by how much I am setting it to....freakin' awesome!


See the following photo I captured from the Support Tool:

SGda

Thanks very much for sharing this information. I also have emanaged my ES civic, but did not manage to get the ignition settings. Looks like your tips will definitely help me.

I've only manage to adjust the fuel, and that's about all. However, after 2 months of driving, the car started to sputter, then the 'check engine' light came on, and the engine kept stalling. Have you encountered this problem? If you have, have you managed to overcome this?

I have narrowed the problem down to the emanage, because, once I remove the emanage, the problem disappeared.

And advise?

opto_isolator

iTrader: (8)

What settings are you using? It sounds like an MAP sensor problem....If you have an OBDII scanner you can read the ECU codes and find out exactly what it is.....

CivicRacer5

i thought the emanage had a smart learning system? Where all you had to do was install it and it would learn the settings?

opto_isolator

iTrader: (8)

Unfortunately that's the AEM EMS, which is not even available for our car yet (maybe someday).....

CivicRacer5

DAMN

SGda

I disconnected the emanage, brought the car down to the local dealer, who said his OBD detected faulty EGR valve. They had it replaced, under warranty, but once i hook back the emanage, the jerking started all over again. so, it might not be EGR problem

opto_isolator

iTrader: (8)

Well, the only way to see what it is is to hook up the scanner while the e-manage is connected.....can't tell you much of anything else. Either that or hook up your laptop to the e-manage and see if anything changed. Also, look for the "red light of death" on the e-manage - if there are errors, the e-manage LED will not be green or orange, but red instead, indicating an error....

canadian2k1si

iTrader: (5)

I am trying to understand this timing map.

If I wanted to advance my timing 3 Deg throughout the entire RPM band, it this the correct way to use this map?

Are they both the same from the adjustments I made, just that the second one goes from 100rpm instead of 500?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

That looks incredibly complicated. I'm so confused by all the things it can do, and it looks like you know more than greddy. Is this thing really expensive, or just hard to install?

canadian2k1si

iTrader: (5)

More E-manage pics are here:

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=161784

Lots of cool stuff, very powerful tool if you can use it properly.

opto_isolator

iTrader: (8)

Its not complicated. It allows you to tune virtual 3D maps (they are not TRUE 3D maps)....BUT - I would not mess with them unless you either have a wideband O2 sensor or EGT gauge - Plus if you have no experience, if you start playing with the timing, and don't have the proper tools to monitor your results - you're going to damage something. Let a tuner do it....