DIY: Return Style Fuel System Conversion
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DIY: Return Style Fuel System Conversion
D.I.Y. Return Style Fuel System Conversion
1.Disconnect battery cables. Don’t want any sparking going on with gas fumes around.
2.We will start with the fuel pump installation and plugging the return side of the OEM fuel pressure regulator. I removed the gas cap from the tank to help relieve pressure in the tank to start off with. I also went ahead and removed the gas line feeding the fuel rail as well to help bleed off the pressure. This hose will spray gas when you disconnect it though so watch out. Next, I removed the lower portion of the back seat to access the top of the gas tank. Remove the four screws in the corners of the cover then raise the cover up and disconnect the wire harness for the fuel pump. After you have disconnected the harness lay the cover to side so it doesn’t get damaged. Then disconnect the fuel supply hose from the top of the cap. Keep in mind that the system may still have a little pressure so make sure you have plenty of rags handy to clean up the gas that will shoot out when you disconnect the hose.
3.Next, unscrew the black plastic ring around the top of the gas tank cap and remove the ring. Be careful here because the cap in spring loaded and will more than likely pop off and spill a little gas around the opening because of the built up pressure in the tank. Mine spilled very little gas at all but be careful anyway just in case.
4.Now you should be able to lift the pump assembly out of the gas tank. The float for the gas gauge will catch on the side of the opening when you lift out the assembly so be careful not to bend this when removing the assembly.
5.Now that we have the assembly out, disconnect the fuel pump and remove the pump from the housing. Go ahead and throw away those hard black fuel hoses as well because you won’t be able to reuse them. Go get about a foot and half or two feet of high-pressure fuel injection hose to replace them with and make sure you get the high-pressure fuel injection hose clamps as well. I got both at Advanced Auto Parts. The hose comes in 18-inch sections. I used 5/16” hose from the pump to the top of the cap and used 3/8” hose for the return side from the cap to the OEM fuel pressure regulator.
6.Next, we need to plug the exit side of the OEM fuel pressure regulator. It is the little metal tube running out the back of the regulator and runs down stopping right in front of the opening in the bottom of the fuel pump housing. I plugged the tube by soldering it and so far it is holding up just fine. If anybody else thinks of a better method than this let me know.
7.After you get that plugged it is time to drill the hole in the top of the cap for the return line fitting. Use whatever size bit you need for the fitting you are going to use. I used a nylon 90 degree fitting with 3/8” NPT on one side and a 3/8” hose barb on the other side. I drilled and tapped the hole for the pipe threaded side, then screwed it into the cap with some nylon/PVC sealant on the threads to make sure that there wasn’t any leaks.
8.Once you have that done you can go ahead and set you new fuel pump into the housing and attach the wire harness to the back of the pump and install the 5/16” fuel supply hose from the pump to the bottom of the cap. Make sure you use the high-pressure fuel injection hose clamps I mentioned earlier or the new high flow pump will blow the lines off the fittings. I speak from experience.
9.Install the 3/8” fuel hose from the bottom of the cap to fitting near the regulator on the housing next.
10.Now you should be able to finish putting the housing together, if you took it completely apart like I did, and install it back into the gas tank exactly the way you took it out. This task is very tricky and will take several tries to get the gasket on the cap to seal right if it is anything like mine. It took me forever to get it just right and get the black ring back on it and screwed down.
11.Once you have the pump assembly back in, reattach your fuel supply line and run your 3/8” fuel return hose from the new fitting on your tank to under the hood wherever you are putting you pressure regulator. Once you get the return hose ran attach it to the fitting you installed and clamp it down. Then plug the wire harness back in and reattach the metal cover over the fuel tank.
12.Next we are going to install our aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. I choose to mount mine on the firewall just below the stamped VIN number. I am using the universal Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator that is adjustable from 40-75 psi. Once you have decided where you are going to mount the regulator attach your return line from the gas tank to the exit side of your regulator. Mine is on the bottom. That takes care of that for now.
13.Now for the hard part….welding or brazing the fitting on the OEM fuel rail for our return line. This is what gave me the biggest headache. Determine where on the rail you want to install the fitting to allow for the easy routing of the return hose from the rail to your fuel pressure regulator. Mark the spot on the rail with a marker. Disconnect the wire harness from each injector and any other harness that may be in the way when removing the rail from the engine. Then disconnect the vacuum line that runs on top of the fuel rail through the metal tube. Remove the little EVAP can from the end of the rail, it just clips on. After everything is disconnected and moved back out of the way, carefully pull up on the fuel rail to dislodge the injectors from the intake manifold and remove the rail. Be careful not to bend or kink the fuel rail when prying it off the intake manifold.
14.Now that you have the rail off, remove the metal retaining clips from the top of the injectors and pull the injectors out of the fuel rail. I went ahead and cut off the vacuum tube that runs on top of the fuel rail and just ran a vacuum hose from the fitting near the firewall to the EVAP can. The vacuum tube is just in the way when you go to weld the fitting in, that is the only reason I removed it.
15.Then drill your hole for your fitting in the fuel rail. Now, depending on what type of fitting you are using, brass or steel, determines what you have to do as far as attaching it to the rail. If you are using a brass hose fitting, you must have the fitting brazed to the rail. If you are using steel fitting, I recommend having it TIG welded to the rail. TIG is preferred, as far as welding goes, because the weld can be “ran” into the cracks around the fitting and plugs the hole much better than other types of welds. Mig or stick welding the rail gets the rail too hot and causes the rail to warp. I know because I migged mine the first time and it warped like hell and also had about a dozen pinhole leaks in the weld. I TIG welded the fitting the next time and it came out much better and only had two small pinhole leaks that were filled in on the second pass. I just did another rail, and had it brazed instead of welded and it came out much better. We had to TIG weld the other rail twice to fill in small pinhole leaks, but the brazing worked the first time. I have had the brazed rail on for about three weeks now and no problems so far. Make sure you let an experienced welder handle this if you haven’t done much welding yourself. Otherwise, a new OEM fuel rail will cost you $75 from your nearest Honda dealership. By the way, if you need to order a new fuel rail from the dealership, they are listed as a fuel pulsation dampener in the Honda parts catalog. Don’t know why they are called that, but that is what they are called.
16.Once you have your fitting installed on the rail, reinstall the injectors and put the rail back on the motor just the way you took it off. Reattach all the wire harnesses and fuel hoses as well.
17.Then run your fuel hose from the fuel rail to the enter side of your fuel pressure regulator.
18.Double check all connections and make sure they are all tight.
19.Reattach you battery cables and get your rags ready again.
20.Turn the ignition to the ON position but do not start the engine. This is will turn on the fuel pump and prime the motor for start which should pressurize the system and send gas up to the fuel rail.
21.Check for leaks. If you have a leak turn the car off immediately and clean up all spilled gas. Then fix the leaks.
22.Once you don’t have any leaks and everything is hooked up, set your fuel pressure regulator to 45 psi (stock setting) using the manufacturers instructions. I set mine to about 49-50 psi and haven’t had any problems.
23.Once the regulator is set attach the vacuum line to the regulator and tee into the vacuum line coming off the backside of the intake manifold. There are two vacuum hoses there, just use the top one. This allows the regulator to up the fuel pressure when the engine is under load or accelerating.
24.Once that is done take your car around the block and test it out. When you get back double check for leaks and do any fine-tuning you may need to do as far as the fuel pressure goes.
Enjoy your fuel return system!
I have a few more pictures if anyone needs them. Feel free to PM me or send me an email with any questions. I will try and answer them the best I can. If anybody has anything to add to this DIY, please feel free. I might have forgot some things.
josh@xtremedreamz.net
1.Disconnect battery cables. Don’t want any sparking going on with gas fumes around.
2.We will start with the fuel pump installation and plugging the return side of the OEM fuel pressure regulator. I removed the gas cap from the tank to help relieve pressure in the tank to start off with. I also went ahead and removed the gas line feeding the fuel rail as well to help bleed off the pressure. This hose will spray gas when you disconnect it though so watch out. Next, I removed the lower portion of the back seat to access the top of the gas tank. Remove the four screws in the corners of the cover then raise the cover up and disconnect the wire harness for the fuel pump. After you have disconnected the harness lay the cover to side so it doesn’t get damaged. Then disconnect the fuel supply hose from the top of the cap. Keep in mind that the system may still have a little pressure so make sure you have plenty of rags handy to clean up the gas that will shoot out when you disconnect the hose.
3.Next, unscrew the black plastic ring around the top of the gas tank cap and remove the ring. Be careful here because the cap in spring loaded and will more than likely pop off and spill a little gas around the opening because of the built up pressure in the tank. Mine spilled very little gas at all but be careful anyway just in case.
4.Now you should be able to lift the pump assembly out of the gas tank. The float for the gas gauge will catch on the side of the opening when you lift out the assembly so be careful not to bend this when removing the assembly.
5.Now that we have the assembly out, disconnect the fuel pump and remove the pump from the housing. Go ahead and throw away those hard black fuel hoses as well because you won’t be able to reuse them. Go get about a foot and half or two feet of high-pressure fuel injection hose to replace them with and make sure you get the high-pressure fuel injection hose clamps as well. I got both at Advanced Auto Parts. The hose comes in 18-inch sections. I used 5/16” hose from the pump to the top of the cap and used 3/8” hose for the return side from the cap to the OEM fuel pressure regulator.
6.Next, we need to plug the exit side of the OEM fuel pressure regulator. It is the little metal tube running out the back of the regulator and runs down stopping right in front of the opening in the bottom of the fuel pump housing. I plugged the tube by soldering it and so far it is holding up just fine. If anybody else thinks of a better method than this let me know.
7.After you get that plugged it is time to drill the hole in the top of the cap for the return line fitting. Use whatever size bit you need for the fitting you are going to use. I used a nylon 90 degree fitting with 3/8” NPT on one side and a 3/8” hose barb on the other side. I drilled and tapped the hole for the pipe threaded side, then screwed it into the cap with some nylon/PVC sealant on the threads to make sure that there wasn’t any leaks.
8.Once you have that done you can go ahead and set you new fuel pump into the housing and attach the wire harness to the back of the pump and install the 5/16” fuel supply hose from the pump to the bottom of the cap. Make sure you use the high-pressure fuel injection hose clamps I mentioned earlier or the new high flow pump will blow the lines off the fittings. I speak from experience.
9.Install the 3/8” fuel hose from the bottom of the cap to fitting near the regulator on the housing next.
10.Now you should be able to finish putting the housing together, if you took it completely apart like I did, and install it back into the gas tank exactly the way you took it out. This task is very tricky and will take several tries to get the gasket on the cap to seal right if it is anything like mine. It took me forever to get it just right and get the black ring back on it and screwed down.
11.Once you have the pump assembly back in, reattach your fuel supply line and run your 3/8” fuel return hose from the new fitting on your tank to under the hood wherever you are putting you pressure regulator. Once you get the return hose ran attach it to the fitting you installed and clamp it down. Then plug the wire harness back in and reattach the metal cover over the fuel tank.
12.Next we are going to install our aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. I choose to mount mine on the firewall just below the stamped VIN number. I am using the universal Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator that is adjustable from 40-75 psi. Once you have decided where you are going to mount the regulator attach your return line from the gas tank to the exit side of your regulator. Mine is on the bottom. That takes care of that for now.
13.Now for the hard part….welding or brazing the fitting on the OEM fuel rail for our return line. This is what gave me the biggest headache. Determine where on the rail you want to install the fitting to allow for the easy routing of the return hose from the rail to your fuel pressure regulator. Mark the spot on the rail with a marker. Disconnect the wire harness from each injector and any other harness that may be in the way when removing the rail from the engine. Then disconnect the vacuum line that runs on top of the fuel rail through the metal tube. Remove the little EVAP can from the end of the rail, it just clips on. After everything is disconnected and moved back out of the way, carefully pull up on the fuel rail to dislodge the injectors from the intake manifold and remove the rail. Be careful not to bend or kink the fuel rail when prying it off the intake manifold.
14.Now that you have the rail off, remove the metal retaining clips from the top of the injectors and pull the injectors out of the fuel rail. I went ahead and cut off the vacuum tube that runs on top of the fuel rail and just ran a vacuum hose from the fitting near the firewall to the EVAP can. The vacuum tube is just in the way when you go to weld the fitting in, that is the only reason I removed it.
15.Then drill your hole for your fitting in the fuel rail. Now, depending on what type of fitting you are using, brass or steel, determines what you have to do as far as attaching it to the rail. If you are using a brass hose fitting, you must have the fitting brazed to the rail. If you are using steel fitting, I recommend having it TIG welded to the rail. TIG is preferred, as far as welding goes, because the weld can be “ran” into the cracks around the fitting and plugs the hole much better than other types of welds. Mig or stick welding the rail gets the rail too hot and causes the rail to warp. I know because I migged mine the first time and it warped like hell and also had about a dozen pinhole leaks in the weld. I TIG welded the fitting the next time and it came out much better and only had two small pinhole leaks that were filled in on the second pass. I just did another rail, and had it brazed instead of welded and it came out much better. We had to TIG weld the other rail twice to fill in small pinhole leaks, but the brazing worked the first time. I have had the brazed rail on for about three weeks now and no problems so far. Make sure you let an experienced welder handle this if you haven’t done much welding yourself. Otherwise, a new OEM fuel rail will cost you $75 from your nearest Honda dealership. By the way, if you need to order a new fuel rail from the dealership, they are listed as a fuel pulsation dampener in the Honda parts catalog. Don’t know why they are called that, but that is what they are called.
16.Once you have your fitting installed on the rail, reinstall the injectors and put the rail back on the motor just the way you took it off. Reattach all the wire harnesses and fuel hoses as well.
17.Then run your fuel hose from the fuel rail to the enter side of your fuel pressure regulator.
18.Double check all connections and make sure they are all tight.
19.Reattach you battery cables and get your rags ready again.
20.Turn the ignition to the ON position but do not start the engine. This is will turn on the fuel pump and prime the motor for start which should pressurize the system and send gas up to the fuel rail.
21.Check for leaks. If you have a leak turn the car off immediately and clean up all spilled gas. Then fix the leaks.
22.Once you don’t have any leaks and everything is hooked up, set your fuel pressure regulator to 45 psi (stock setting) using the manufacturers instructions. I set mine to about 49-50 psi and haven’t had any problems.
23.Once the regulator is set attach the vacuum line to the regulator and tee into the vacuum line coming off the backside of the intake manifold. There are two vacuum hoses there, just use the top one. This allows the regulator to up the fuel pressure when the engine is under load or accelerating.
24.Once that is done take your car around the block and test it out. When you get back double check for leaks and do any fine-tuning you may need to do as far as the fuel pressure goes.
Enjoy your fuel return system!
I have a few more pictures if anyone needs them. Feel free to PM me or send me an email with any questions. I will try and answer them the best I can. If anybody has anything to add to this DIY, please feel free. I might have forgot some things.
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stupid question (honestly never looked up on fuel systems and stuff...): what are the advantages to converting your fuel system to a return style?
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Rep Power: 0 I did it because I am planning on installing a turbo kit this winter. With this fuel setup it allows me to run bigger injectors and adjust my fuel pressure to give the motor more fuel for the boost. There are other ways of doing this for a turbo. I hear that Catalyst's fuel setup for turbos is pretty sweet but I am not real sure how it all works. I am more familiar with this type of setup so that is why I went with it.
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Rep Power: 512 ah.. cool.. thanks for the info, and nice DIY.. i wanna turbo my car once i'm financially able to.. so, here's another thing to do
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
Rep Power: 312 Ok, first off - props to you for posting this 
I've been wondering about this since the turbo talk came around.
But, a few things to consider. As far as I am aware of, there are no aftermarket fuel rails available for our car yet. AEM is supposedly working on one, but who knows when they will have it out. As for aftermarket injectors, there are none available yet.
I tried calling Keihin, the OEM manufacturer of our injector, about obtaining a higher flow rate injector, but the guy I spoke to really didn't have too much information. Plus they only deal with OEM's anyhow I guess. The stock Honda P/N for our injector is 16450-PLC-003 (Majestic Honda's is NOT correct, they do not list honda P/N's, they list their own made up stock #'s).
I attempted to see if RC engineering had any suggestions about this. They said that they do not have a replacement injector which will fit our cars yet. The fuel rail is too close to something or other. The only solution would be to get a custom fuel rail and injector setup, which I'm really not too sure about. They also said that our injectors are running about 220cc's.
From the various fuel calculation sheets, I have estimated that 370-440cc injectors should be adequate for around 250-300 HP.
I've been wondering about this since the turbo talk came around.
But, a few things to consider. As far as I am aware of, there are no aftermarket fuel rails available for our car yet. AEM is supposedly working on one, but who knows when they will have it out. As for aftermarket injectors, there are none available yet.
I tried calling Keihin, the OEM manufacturer of our injector, about obtaining a higher flow rate injector, but the guy I spoke to really didn't have too much information. Plus they only deal with OEM's anyhow I guess. The stock Honda P/N for our injector is 16450-PLC-003 (Majestic Honda's is NOT correct, they do not list honda P/N's, they list their own made up stock #'s).
I attempted to see if RC engineering had any suggestions about this. They said that they do not have a replacement injector which will fit our cars yet. The fuel rail is too close to something or other. The only solution would be to get a custom fuel rail and injector setup, which I'm really not too sure about. They also said that our injectors are running about 220cc's.
From the various fuel calculation sheets, I have estimated that 370-440cc injectors should be adequate for around 250-300 HP.
Last edited by opto_isolator; Oct 16, 2003 at 04:59 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 Here is the info that I have managed to gather myself.
AEM will be releasing their fuel rail hopefully around the end of November. It will still be designed around the OEM returnless setup. So basically no help to us people trying to turbo our car.
However, I have talked the research and development team at Venom (Python Injection) into designing a return style fuel rail for our cars. I should be recieving mine in a few weeks so I will pass on info on that as soon as I get more. I am at work right now but I will post the phone number and name of the guy at Venom that I talk too so you guys can call them an hopefully get some more info on this.
As for injectors...call Summit Racing. You can order custom flow rate injectors from Venom through them. They will cost you about $350 and will take about 2 weeks to get. Venom uses the OEM injector and rebuilds them to the flow rate you need. I had mine build to 390cc. I use a Greddy Emanage and adjust the fuel pressure to tune them in. I am still in the tuning process however and will post info on this as soon as I have get my info from my efforts. I will post the name and phone number of my contact (same as fuel rail) as soon as I get home and find my paperwork on my orders.
I hope this helps some of you out there get the info you need to upgrade your fuel systems. I am trying to get us the parts we need so hang in there. There is light at the end of the tunnel.
AEM will be releasing their fuel rail hopefully around the end of November. It will still be designed around the OEM returnless setup. So basically no help to us people trying to turbo our car.
However, I have talked the research and development team at Venom (Python Injection) into designing a return style fuel rail for our cars. I should be recieving mine in a few weeks so I will pass on info on that as soon as I get more. I am at work right now but I will post the phone number and name of the guy at Venom that I talk too so you guys can call them an hopefully get some more info on this.
As for injectors...call Summit Racing. You can order custom flow rate injectors from Venom through them. They will cost you about $350 and will take about 2 weeks to get. Venom uses the OEM injector and rebuilds them to the flow rate you need. I had mine build to 390cc. I use a Greddy Emanage and adjust the fuel pressure to tune them in. I am still in the tuning process however and will post info on this as soon as I have get my info from my efforts. I will post the name and phone number of my contact (same as fuel rail) as soon as I get home and find my paperwork on my orders.
I hope this helps some of you out there get the info you need to upgrade your fuel systems. I am trying to get us the parts we need so hang in there. There is light at the end of the tunnel.
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
Rep Power: 312 I read somewhere (can't remember where) that rebuilding stock injectors to a higher flow rate is bad, since they might leak. I guess the article was saying that they weren't designed for such higher flow rates to begin with.....
Anyhow, more questions. Did you use a Walbro 255 fuel pump in the tank? Were any modifications necessary for it to fit? The custom injectors from Venom, how are they working for you right now?
My plan is to get the E-manage, but before that happens I want to make sure that SOMEONE on here gets the ignition timing control to work properly, otherwise there would be no point for me to buy greddy. My concern is too advanced timing at higher RPMS in boost. The emanage should compensate IF we can get it working. Keep us posted of your results please!
Anyhow, more questions. Did you use a Walbro 255 fuel pump in the tank? Were any modifications necessary for it to fit? The custom injectors from Venom, how are they working for you right now?
My plan is to get the E-manage, but before that happens I want to make sure that SOMEONE on here gets the ignition timing control to work properly, otherwise there would be no point for me to buy greddy. My concern is too advanced timing at higher RPMS in boost. The emanage should compensate IF we can get it working. Keep us posted of your results please!
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Rep Power: 0 The guys at Venom told me that they make almost all of thier custom flow rate injectors from OEM ones. Including the ones on thier drag cars, without any problems. Yes, I did use the Walbro 255 in-tank pump with no modifications other than using high pressure fuel hose and clamps. The venom injectors idle fine but other than that I can't really say. Since I installed them the car hasn't left the driveway. Still doing some work with the tuning and other mods. Once I am done I will post my setting and such so you guys have something to go by. As far as timing, I haven't ran into a problem there at any RPM yet but then again I am still basically stock as far as induction.
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From: Lexington, KY
Rep Power: 585 i might have not noticed this in ur DIY up top there, but did u not put any bigger injectors in there. i have the RC 440s in place of my stock ones and a return system, if u went to all that trouble to make it a return why didnt u just go ahead and put bigger injectors in(that is if i misread), if ur waiting on a venom rail, why did u do all that to the stock rail, and what does it do when the car is non turbo jw?
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Rep Power: 0 mclean: On a naturally aspirated car the answer is no to all of your quiestions.
hondaluver: Yeah I have pics. Shoot me an email addy if you want them.
c2i0v0i1c: To answer your first question, I just did the DIY on how to do a fuel return system on any 2002 civic, not just mine. I do have Venom 390cc injectors currently on my stock rail. I am waiting for the Venom rail which I did not find out I was getting until after I had done the conversion. Obviously I wouldn't do this to a car I wasn't planning on boosting. The car will be turboed by Spring.
hondaluver: Yeah I have pics. Shoot me an email addy if you want them.
c2i0v0i1c: To answer your first question, I just did the DIY on how to do a fuel return system on any 2002 civic, not just mine. I do have Venom 390cc injectors currently on my stock rail. I am waiting for the Venom rail which I did not find out I was getting until after I had done the conversion. Obviously I wouldn't do this to a car I wasn't planning on boosting. The car will be turboed by Spring.
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Rep Power: 585 so are u driving as is with the return and NA, i am wondering what it does different if anything, bc i did mine all at once, (return and turbo)
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Rep Power: 0 Yeah, I am running NA with a AEM cold air intake with the return. If anything, it seems to pull a little harder in the bottom end from like 1000-3000 rpms. Even that isn't a real big change just a little. Other than that, no change really.
, this needs to be moved to the DIY section.... Originally posted by showtyme
Yeah, I am running NA with a AEM cold air intake with the return. If anything, it seems to pull a little harder in the bottom end from like 1000-3000 rpms. Even that isn't a real big change just a little. Other than that, no change really.
Yeah, I am running NA with a AEM cold air intake with the return. If anything, it seems to pull a little harder in the bottom end from like 1000-3000 rpms. Even that isn't a real big change just a little. Other than that, no change really.
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Rep Power: 0 chesireCAT: I cost me around $350-400 and some of my time. You might be able to do it a little cheaper though. I had some mistakes I had to fix.
mclean987: I have had the cold air intake on for about a year. When I put the return sytle injection in i seemed to pull just a little harder in the bottom end with the intake. Don't get your hopes up as far as that goes though. It is just a tiny bit diffrent, not a big change. Really hardly noticable. The DIY explains how I did it and yes I changed the fuel pump to a Walbro 255 gph pump. Summit sells the pump as a BBK fuel pump but it has Walbro stamped on the outside of the pump.
mclean987: I have had the cold air intake on for about a year. When I put the return sytle injection in i seemed to pull just a little harder in the bottom end with the intake. Don't get your hopes up as far as that goes though. It is just a tiny bit diffrent, not a big change. Really hardly noticable. The DIY explains how I did it and yes I changed the fuel pump to a Walbro 255 gph pump. Summit sells the pump as a BBK fuel pump but it has Walbro stamped on the outside of the pump.
Originally posted by showtyme
chesireCAT: I cost me around $350-400 and some of my time. You might be able to do it a little cheaper though. I had some mistakes I had to fix.
mclean987: I have had the cold air intake on for about a year. When I put the return sytle injection in i seemed to pull just a little harder in the bottom end with the intake. Don't get your hopes up as far as that goes though. It is just a tiny bit diffrent, not a big change. Really hardly noticable. The DIY explains how I did it and yes I changed the fuel pump to a Walbro 255 gph pump. Summit sells the pump as a BBK fuel pump but it has Walbro stamped on the outside of the pump.
chesireCAT: I cost me around $350-400 and some of my time. You might be able to do it a little cheaper though. I had some mistakes I had to fix.
mclean987: I have had the cold air intake on for about a year. When I put the return sytle injection in i seemed to pull just a little harder in the bottom end with the intake. Don't get your hopes up as far as that goes though. It is just a tiny bit diffrent, not a big change. Really hardly noticable. The DIY explains how I did it and yes I changed the fuel pump to a Walbro 255 gph pump. Summit sells the pump as a BBK fuel pump but it has Walbro stamped on the outside of the pump.
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From: Lawrenceburg, Kentucky, US
Rep Power: 0 The fuel pump was $139 from Summit. I did the return and the fuel pump at the same time so I can't say for sure which helped more. I would guess they both did. I do have an Aeromotive universal fuel pressure regulator (135 from Summit) set at 50 psi. I currently am running an AEM cold air, Thermal R&D exhaust, and some shitty Zex plugs. No, it doesn't seem to burn any more gas than before. If it does it isn't noticable to me.
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
Rep Power: 312 Bad news - I just called and asked to speak to Jason (sorry, couldn't wait). They said he quit (or was fired or something). Not only that, but they haven't even begun to develop any fuel rail for our car yet. They have looked at a few civics, but want to see if they are all the same as far as the rail is concerned - only want to release one if possible.
So....................If you are near their offices in CA, call them up and stop by. I for one would love to have a fuel rail for our cars, but if no one lends them their car, who knows how long it will be before it gets released!
So....................If you are near their offices in CA, call them up and stop by. I for one would love to have a fuel rail for our cars, but if no one lends them their car, who knows how long it will be before it gets released!
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From: Lawrenceburg, Kentucky, US
Rep Power: 0 I talked to Jason today and he has not quit. As a matter of fact, he is the owner's son. He did say they hadn't got very far as far as getting to the rail. They thought they were going to be able to use the Neon rail body and just change the mounting holes but the rail body didn't fit the opening for our cars. They are still very interested in developing this rail though. So yes, if any one lives near there offices, please stop in and let them get some info on the civics. Jason wanted to know who you talked to at Venom/Python opto? He was very curious as to why they would tell you something like that. Maybe there is two Jason's working out there or something. Who knows.
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
Rep Power: 312 To be honest I don't recall his name - he sounded a little like he had an accent a bit. I just called up the # listed on their site, and asked to speak to Jason. The guy, whomever he was, said he doesn't work here anymore....rather weird! But, if you know whats going on more than me, more power to us....
