Josip

hey ppl i think i just got myself into abit of a pickle. I just purchased a honda civic yesterday and it has become very clear things are not all good.

The car has alot of trouble with missing when it is taking off. It jerks as its taking off from first and going into second, sometimes even third and backfires every now and then. It doesnt do it as soon as i get in the car but after about 5 minutes of driving, then it stops after about 20 mins when its well warmed up.

Its a 2000 model, 3 door, manual civic, non-vtec with afew mods listed below.
-2" Mandrel bent exhaust
-X-Force Extractors
-Cold Air-intake
-V-AFC Controller
-Strut Brace
-Lowered on King Springs
-15" Advan Replica rims
-Type R Grill and wing
-Angel headlight projectors

Any one got few ideas about this thing, or at least what i should go up to the mechanic with when i get it checked out?
Thanx.

vargasr66

need to start with the basics always... check the plugs, filters and have the timing checked if you don't know how to do it yourself...after that check for any check engine light codes or just gather info for your mech....

05blkrs

idk man, but w/ that afc, what a lot of ppl do, when they get it dyno tuned, they write the settings on the dyno slip and make copies and keep it.. if someone decided to mess w/ the settings, it will screw w/ the whole a/f ratio and you will never run right... and also, like was said above, check plugs, wires, fuel filters etc etc.

GoneIn60

are you sure he didnt put Vtec in it? Thats the only reason you would have a VAFC because its a vtech controller. A SAFC is something that would be used for the non-vtec cars

05blkrs

v-afc will also control a non v-tec car just you need the vafc for a vtec car.... they probably got it for cheap of a b16 car or something that blew who knows.. that sounds like an over all bad deal.. how much did you pay for the car?

Josip

hey guys thanx for the replies, i bought the car for 10.5k (AU). Anyway i dont think the VAFC is programmed to do anything it just shows the reading like revs, comp, throttle etc im not really sure if its tuned to do anything. I tried unpuging the VAFC from the computer and it still seems to run the same (unless it was programmed wrong previously....****). Ill try doing the basics and see if it help first.

If it was programmed wrong and someone stuffed with the VAFC, is there no way to put it bnack to the right settings?

Thanx guys

05blkrs

i'm not positive but i would think that when you unplug the vafc, it will not affect the ecu anymore.. kinda like a piggy back.. once you un plug it, it's gone...

Tayler

Yea, as soon as you unplug it the ecu itself takes over. The memory in the unit is saved though.

Josip

ok, i downloaded manulas for the Vafc and tried going through the setting for the low and high throttle etc and it seemes someone probly did stuff up the tuning, id have to run it on a dyno again to get the correct settings.

For now i tried un-plugging the unit and it runs abit better but still chokes, and there is an engine light on.

Does anyone know how to read the engine codes, or would i need to take it to a Honda dealer and they gotta do it. Coz im thinking if i can get it to run ok with out the VAFC ill get rid of the damn thing and just make some money on it.

Last thing, if i disconnect the battery and leave it of for a couple hours will that re-start the computer?

GoneIn60

You can disconnect your battery and open up your fuse box and pull out your ECU fuse and leave it out for a few minutes that will reset everything and then turn your car on and you will have to teach the PCM an idle learn procedure. This is straight from a Haynes manual, you should do it anytime you disconnect your battery. 1. Make sure all electrical components are turned off. Air conditioning, lights, rear window defog, sound system, etc. 2. Start the engine bring it up to 3,000 rpm and hold it there, with no load so do this in Neutral or Park, until the radiator fan comes on. 3. Allow the engine to idle for at least five minutes with no load on it so the throttle body is closed at this point. NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on during this 5 min period dont include this time during which the fan runs as part of the five minutes.

Josip

ok well i tried restarting the ecu, hasnt seemed to fix the problem. Now im thinking its the O2 sensor since i looked at it and it seems pretty busted, im in the process of buying one of e-bay now.

Anyknow how to read the engine codes, when the engine light comes on?