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My daughter has '98 se coupe. Last couple of months, she can be going down the road and she says it feels like car dies-- for only a split second. Engine light comes on for same time. 2 days ago, car died in rush hour traffic. I took to good Honda mechanic 2 months ago and he could find nothing wrong. Car now at largest Honda dealership in Austin. They haven't been able to find anything. After car died in traffic, it re-started several minutes later. Any ideas what to look for? I'm afraid to let her drive car until we resolve problem. THANKS.

 
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Stalling can be caused by many things BUT when was the last time you changed the fuel filter and air filter and had a tune up??

Most people forget about the fuel filter and it can get really clogged up and cause all sorts of problems.

For good measure, I would add a good quality fuel injector cleaner as well such as chevron techron, etc.

Oh, if an engine light came on, there surely is a trouble code stored in the computer, did anyone check for computer codes?

Some car books like chiltons, etc have diagnostic questions they ask you, then point you in the direction of what it might be based on how you answer the questions, etc.

Also shutting off in rush hour also points to something getting to hot as stop and go traffic really heats things up under the hood.

 
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I agree with checking fuel filter first up. I had a similar problem, changed that filter and all ok.
Once it gets clogged up and dirty, you'll notice the car start to run incredibly bad.

 
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a fuel filter would also cause it to show a "fuel cut" code.. but this code could also mean a loose fuel pump connectoin or any other of 1000000 electrical things..

 
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haha yes.. hence why its not always smart to rely completely on ECU codes.
Too many variables and possibilities.

 
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yes but at least they will let you know roughly what the problem is.. and that there is a problem in the first place... and give you a good starting place to fix it

 
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Thanks For Replys, But If It Was This Simple, I'm Sure The Honda Dealership Would Have Figured Out By Now. Oil And Filters Changed About 1000 Miles Ago. Car Was Doing This Before Change And Continues. I've Been Surfing Internet Constantly Since Yesterday And One Thing Keeps Coming Up Repeatedly On Different Websites-- Honda Had An Igniter Problem, Specifically With One Manufactured By Co. Called Hueco. Any Thoughts?

 
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not if it's stalling.... does it stall suddenly? or does it sputter first?

 
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Daughter Says Up Until This Time, It's Always Just Felt Like It Died, But After Less Than Second, It Feels Ok This Time It Just Died Going About 50mph. One Honda-related Website Says It's Likely An Ignitor Problem If---car Quits Abruptly, All Dash Lights Come On, And Car Starts Again After It Cools. 2 Other Sites Said Basically Same Thing. One Said Coil Is Possible Culprit.

 
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http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html

 
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i was thinking the coil but it could be an ignitor.. i'm not familiar with the ignitor part.. still learning this new technology crap but for all i know the coil and ignitor could be almost the same part.. maybe it's part of the coil.. either way i was going to say it has to be ignition related if it just suddenly stops because w/ fuel problems, it will sputter and die out slowly and normally will not start back up if it doesn't start back right away..


so here's my suggestion.. i think i just found out what the ignitor may be.. have them check/replace the ignition module.. it controlls all the ignition components.. either way, good luck.. just check all coils, and whatever the module that controls them... and you should be set..

 
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Thanks, I'll Mention Module When I Talk To Shop. Service Manager Told Me A Little While Ago He Checked Igniter And It Was Good. One Of Guys Here At Work Mentioned Throttle Body, But Dealership Didn't Think It Was Likely.

 
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I used to have excactly this problem with my toyota. it seriously is exactly this same thing. i was getting deja vu just reading.

This is the brain talking. The computer brain that runs the car is shorting out. But it could be because the charge running to the computer circuit is interrupted or because the wiring is breaking the circuit charge but picking it up again quick enough to restart the car.

They could test by swapping the main brain and trying the car on highway conditions.

 
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sounds more like some sort of short circuit in the engine compartment somewhere.. because it seems as if it happens whenever the engine gets hot.. and once the specific part cools off enough, it's fine..

 
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Yes I had this exact problem but if you live somewhere like Southern California you can't wait 45 minutes to an hour. I have done this and you have like 25 minutes of drive time and that isn't enough to get anywhere. And God help you if you are bumper to bumper or in unfriendly geography.

You could be risking more than the car.

 
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The last time I checked for a fuel filter on my sis' 98 civic, I was told to purchase a whole fuel pump module assembly... FROM THE DEALER!!! The filter is a part of the pump assembly and is not prone to clogging because it is merely a strainer. Have ignition coil checked to make sure adequate fire is being produced (45,000+ volts simultaneously). Sounds like secondary fire is deteriorating on it.

 
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Dealership changed rotor, cap, and plugs-- said wires looked good. told me he wasn't sure this would work, but hey, i got minor tuneup for $115. Daughter drove 250 miles home yesterday. car cut out for a second while in heavy, stop and go traffic. never died. tach immediatelely dropped to zero then returned to previous reading. i have seen on internet that this is definite sign of igniter, as is fact that it won't store a code. any thoughts before i dump another 3 to 4 hundred on igniter?

 
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dont go back to the dealer that's my only thought.. dealsers are a rip.. i used to work for th emazda dealer just north of dallas... just go buy the part and put it on.. 90% of parts can be installed w/ basic hand tools..

 
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yeah $115 for a tune up is ridiculous. What is a "tune up" anyway?
They never really detail just what they do which is a bit of a worry.

You can definitely do that basic stuff yourself.

 
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I would definately suggest that you try a place like autozone,advanced, napa or any other parts place instead of a dealer.. Heck if your not that picky you can even get one from a salvage yard and try that and if that isn't the problem then you just spent a few dollars and not an arm and a leg at the dealer..sometimes the people that work yards don't know what the part is if you can get it yourself and you can tell them that it's anything... plus most of the time they are really busy and will sell you the part cheap just to get to other customers..