Rep Power: 0

Hey guys new here. I've got a 2005 civ 1.7 5 speed. I recently replaced the stock steel stamped pan with an aluminum one off of an si ( P.S. if you plan on doing this you need to grind down a small portion of your engine stiffener!!) After letting the permatex ultra grey set for 24 hours. Also yes I followied torque sequence
, then dropped the car off the stands level added oil and started er up. Low oil pressure light popped on for a split second then shut off. I was alone in the shop so I shut it off after letting it run for maybe 5 -10 seconds. I look under the car and notice that there is oil dropping from what may be the oil pan at the front main seal. So I jack it up start it look under it real quick and can see oil pissing out from what looks like the front main seal maybe? Possibly I knocked my oil pump sump and damaged one of the infamous oil pump seals or gaskets? Any ideas thoughts or opinions on what my next step would be will be greatly appreciated. Will try update with identical picture I found in google as to where it's coming from thank you in adavance!

 
Rep Power: 518

WHY oh why did you replace the oil pan with the wrong one? Why not just fix it the way it was designed in the first place?

FWIW I don't remember running into this on a D17A1, but on older engines the gasket had steel washers embedded in it and those washers would tend to stay stuck to the studs on the block after you removed the pan and old gasket.... which causes the new gasket to not seal properly because the leftover washer(s) acts like a spacer.

Might be worth checking out.

I actually pulled out a transmission (needlessly) one time chasing this exact problem. It sure looked like a rear main seal leak pouring oil out...until the trans and flex plate were out of the way.

 
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Why oh why? Because civic. Because winter beater. Because I live in PEI Canada hahaha. Rust. That's why. Aluminum won't rust away as fast on me it may pit but it's thicker. But okay great thanks for the input silly mistake on my part I'd say and that there is one if not more of them metal spacers like you said in the gasket I did not know about them. Is there any way to plus one you?

 
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Also ezone I bet you will tell me hondabond is needed but permatex ultra grey work?

 
Rep Power: 518

Did you check out your old gasket to see if my idea is a real possibility? Like I said, I it only stands out in my mind on a much older engine and I wasn't sure if the gasket is similar design on this one.

Nah, I tell people that's what I would use if I didn't have scads of Hondabond laying around. I have even re-stuck tiles on my bathroom wall using the Honda stuff.


<--find this icon to +1, thank you for your support!

 
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yes yes I did and Im missing some. Off she comes tomorrow after work. It's 1:30 I've been researching since 9:00. Ugh and good bye fresh 4l of oil. Not quite 4 but ya know I'll keep updated and I might show the grinds needed for the oil pan swap if any1 is interested. Hopefully I'll be back on the road by Wednesday! The 6.0l is a fuel guzzling pig!

 
Rep Power: 518

Drain the oil into a clean jug and reuse it? That stuff is valuable!

 
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ezone another question. Estimated time range for just a valve clearance check/adjust ment. Or rocker arm adjustment I guess you could say. I got a mean chatter at 2-4 grand. Exspecially cold. Temp ranges where I am from 30C to -30C any recommendations on wether I should aim for high side or low side of specs? I think ex calves were .009 tp .007 and intake was less like .006 to .008. Don't quite remember but in that range. Going to sleep will hopefully read a reply in the morning thank you in advance!! Life saver! Was thinking about buying a motor and dropping it in rather than ripping off half of the front of the motor for an o ring but it's 99.999% that I left one of those spacers in

 
Rep Power: 518

In our shop, for a 1.7L engine I'd guess the fee would be around 1.5xlabor rate, give or take. Actual time involved varies by individual persons skill and speed and how far out of whack the valves are when you begin.

I like to set lash to the max spec just because most Hondas are known to tighten up valves as they age, and that's bad news. Loose valves just make a little noise.....Tight valves burn.

Get the real specs in writing, don't rely on fuzzy memory.

 
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I take it your a dyi'r ..? nothing wrong with that, One Question though...
for You the dutchmen did You do any kind of google research on Your own
before tackling this job Yourself.? reason for asking is after reading your previous posts
i really believe Your in over head on this as far as making a successful repair goes at this stage.
take it to a repair shop. just my 2cents.