Prestone Flush 'N Fill?
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Has anybody used the Prestone Flush 'N Fill kit on there civic? I just got one, but im unsure of which hose im supposed to connect the "T" to for the Garden hose. I really want to back Flush my system. If some one has done it could you mabe take a picure of it. so i can see where you put it. I think i know which one it is. but i dont like to mess with things unless im 100% sure.
Thanks for your help.
Also what are your thought on the prestone Flush fluid? Should i or should i not?
Have a 02 Civic| Auto Tranny| 106,000 miles.
Thanks for your help.
Also what are your thought on the prestone Flush fluid? Should i or should i not?
Have a 02 Civic| Auto Tranny| 106,000 miles.
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They're fine. Here is where I put my tee fitting on the hose coming off the water neck. Look at the bottom left of the picture.
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Don't do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Use Honda coolant, and distilled water
here's a nice DIY
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...t-diy-2-a.html
Use Honda coolant, and distilled water
here's a nice DIY
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...t-diy-2-a.html
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Don't do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Use Honda coolant, and distilled water
here's a nice DIY
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...t-diy-2-a.html
Use Honda coolant, and distilled water
here's a nice DIY
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...t-diy-2-a.html
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its fine to use the flush kit, but be sure to use the honda coolant when youre done. those store antifreezes suck.
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yeah thats the air intake resonator box. all that unbolts and then you can reach the hoses. make sure you can put it back on with the T installed. may not be enough space.
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Cool. thanks for you help so much. Wish i would of waited. I just did the flush. I didnt back flush though. cause i was unsure. So i just did a basic flush 2 times. then fill.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
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If it was green then it's been flushed before. Honda coolant is blue. And the refs to "crappy store antifreeze" is a bunch of bunk. **** works just fine in every application.
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no it doesnt actually. ive heard plenty of stories of cooling systems ruined by store coolant, esp hondas. water pump seals get eaten up, rust in the cooling passage, etc. and also the older honda coolant was green, only the new stuff now is blue. alot of 01-03 civics still used the old green honda coolant. but ill be changing to blue soon.
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I don't know about you guys but i would not put tap water (from the garden hose) in my car. This is why it's recommended to use distill water and coolant. I would just drain the old fluid and put the new Honda coolant in there. It's already premix and make it much more easy. Also i would not put that "all make and model" in my car if you compare that to the Dex-Cool the ingredients is identical. You're probably better off doing drain and fill with Honda coolant more often than a "flush"
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yeah thats what i just did. drain the radiator and add honda coolant. very easy and can be done without jacking up the car. i used a siphon pump to take out most of the reservoir coolant so that saved even more time not removing the whole piece. then add the honda coolant, and burp the air out. burping takes the most time and thats really the only hard part. park on an incline to get most of the air out the heatercore. the remaining small amount of bubbles will work themselves out over time. remember the honda coolant is extended life, so 5 yrs conservatively is very safe to go between changes. this is the first time ive changed it in prolly several yrs and the insides were spotless. fluid still looked new too. and the drain and refill gets out about 3/4 gallon, so all you need is one gallon from dealer.
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I believe if you use the autostore stuff, its just about the same. As long as you use a real brand name like prestone. I personally use the Honda stuff because its actually the same price as the autostore stuff.. I personally feel better putting Honda fluids in my car besides their oil, which I believe is just overpriced Moblie.
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yeah aside from oil, i would only use honda fluids. maybe mtf you can use a different brand too. store antifreeze is "okay" but you gotta change it every 2 yrs max, otherwise all the corrosion inhibitors will be gone and also some brands do not have proper formulations for honda cooling systems so you may have parts start failing. thats not worth the hassle to me when the honda coolant is only $15 at the dealer and lasts at least 5 yrs. ofcourse the best coolant is straight distilled water (with some redline waterwetter too if needed), but thats only good if it never drops below freezing in your state. but prolly better to run at least a lil coolant for rust protecting and lube for the waterpump. 60/40 or even 70/30 water to coolant is best in warm climates.
Last edited by gearbox; 11-26-2009 at 05:42 PM.
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On a side note, I am doing a clutch on an 1988 Nissan Sentra, and was wondering is it worth using Nissan OEM stuff for MTF. I dont care about the car that much since I am just learning to drive stick on it then getting rid of it. What you guys think? (Not trying to hijack btw)
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sometimes the oem stuff can make it shift better.
also back to coolant, i found this on another forum if you wanna test it
also back to coolant, i found this on another forum if you wanna test it
You can also use an ordinary digital volt meter. With the engine off, touch the voltmeter positive test lead to the radiator or engine (making sure you get good metal-to-metal contact). Then open the radiator cap and insert the negative test lead into the coolant. A reading of up to 0.2 volts is considered acceptable and indicates the presence of reserve alkalinity in the coolant. If the coolant reads 0.3 to 0.6 volts, it is borderline and should be recycled or replaced. A reading of 0.7 volts or more would tell you the coolant is overdue for a change.
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....
Honda Coolant has sebecate and no silicates, and that makes it much different from ordinary green stuff. If you use a silicated coolant in a Honda, you will get water pump leaks. Honda also requires phosphate in their coolants. The honda/acura Type 2 coolant contains De-ionized water and is prediluted. It states that it is a non silicate/borate coolant. It is rated to last 60K or 5 years. I change mine out at 30K just to be safe. Japanese cars in general require lower pH coolants due to aluminum cooling system parts. Whereas domestics prefer higher pH for many cars using cast iron components.
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