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Ok kids, heres what you've been waiting for. I have successfulyl completed this DIY with a cost of 150 USD and about 40 dollars worth in favors. To date, I have had no problems with the attatchments, welds or anything that might "break off" considering a custom-non-oem modification.

What I have noticed so far: Performance gains are minimal under normal driving conditions. The car does however, perform under high speed turns but don't expect enough G to black out. The roll is transfered from our once "sloshly" rear to the front, which is now the weak point and thus inhibits the performance I expected out of it.

NOTE: If you guys really want to drift in the rain w/o your handbrake, this is one way to do it!


I will not give any parts numbers because they are different btn Canada and USA so I will simply verbally describe them.

You will need:

1 left rear 2001 EX/SI endlink Honda

1 right rear 2001 EX/SI endlink Honda

2 10mm flanged nutz Honda

2 10mm flanged lock nutz Honda

2 19mm sway bar bushings Acura

2 19mm sway bar bushing holders Acura

2 8mmX18mm bolts Honda

4 8mm flange nutz Honda

2 8mm bolts (must be 3 1/2" long) Anystore

2 custom-made steel attatchments



1. First off, you must get you hands on something that allows you to attatch the endlinks to the rear lower arm. I designed my own set of mild-steel attatchment and had them made at a machine shop. Everything was free because I had aquaintance with the engineer. I realized this first step may set most of you guys back from doing this install but I can see in the future to either get a large batch for you guys at a low price or I may simply post the CAD design later. As you can see, the coke can is rougly the diameter of our tube-like control arm.








2. As you can see, from the picture above the pop can is roughly the diameter of our pipe-like lower arm. Once you have this piece made, the rest is quite simply. You must find the spot on the lower arm just distal to the strut linkage on the arm. There, you can find an unobstructed place to WELD these into place. I highly recommend you take it to a muffler shop and beg a 10 minute favor from someone. The beauty of this is that you don't have to be TOO precise on the placement of the steel attatchment. Just try the position by attatching everything to the sway bar and hold it up, tentatively, against the lower center beam and have it welded once u are satisfied with the placement.

NOTE: the mid-pipe clearence







Once it has been welded it might be a good time to spray some automotive rust inhibitor paint over the steel attatchment and the welds. You can see I just did before the photo was taken


3. This part takes some courage on you behalf. You must drill 4 holes into your lower center beam.

NOTE: the top two holes must penetrate the entire 3" of the lower center beam. There is no choice. Fortunatly it is hollow. You will note that one the other side of the beam on the driver side it a bracket holding the fuel tank in place. I drilled right to it but not through it. I do not have a picture to show you, but you will see what I mean. There will be JUST enough space to fit the nut there so have faith. Be precise in your drilling of you'll get a nice fuel leak.....no just kidding, but please do be careful.








4. Basically, with the attatchments welded on, the holes drilled, you're now ready to bolt everything up.

Place the bushings on the sway bar.

Correctly orient the bar. (Just look at how the bar curves up and back down to clear the lower arms)

Place the enlinks on the bar (Remember which is left and which is right by keeping it in its respective packaging)

Bolt up the links to the bar using the 10mm flange nutz(you'll notice the center spindle of the link rotates, preventing you from tightening the nut. Simply find the corresponding HEX key to keep the spindle from rotating.

Bolt up the remaining end of the endlink to the steel attatchments using the 10mm flange lock nutz (use tge same tightening method as above)

Slap on the 2 bushing holders and bolt the top 2 ends first using the 3 and a 1/2 inch 8 mm bolt with the 8mm nutz (getting the driver side will be tricky. Because u drilled under the fuel tank bracket, you'll need nimble rat claws to get the nutz on)

Bolt up the bottom 2 with the 8mm nutz





Presto, drive like go-kart!!!!!!



Attachments:

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[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] ACFC0E.jpg (49 Kb)

[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] ACFC10.jpg (50 Kb)

[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] ACFC12.jpg (50 Kb)

[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] ACFC14.jpg (47 Kb)

[IMG]/forums/themes/orbitz/paperclip.gif[/IMG] ACFC16.jpg (48 Kb)

 
Rep Power: 362

hmm. very nice.
good diy!
im too scared to do that though haha.

 
Rep Power: 433

very nice DIY .

 
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cool

 
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wow that is very nice DIY...how long did the whole process take?

 
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what kind of drink is that? [IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]

 
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looks like coke.. 'cept it's got like an austin powersesque design to it.

 
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Great DIY !!! I can manage everything except the endlink bracket. Are you planning on getting a batch made up? I'm def. interested in buying and I'm semi-local so I can drive there on short notice.

 
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Yep its a Vanilla flavored Coke. Also the whole process took around 3 hrs put together.

 
Rep Power: 369

hmm. vanillia flavored Coke? You Canadians...

good job though... I'm glad I have my ex... my 19mm bolted right on.. sorta. (not throwing it at ur face though)

but good job. its a really tuff one... u should consider selling the cad design or just make a buncha 'em... depending on interest level...

 
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I would make those brackets if there were more people interested....so post away, you ******.

 
Rep Power: 420

I think I can make myself a set of those brackets... I might post on an addendum to your DIY if I do. Hey, so you drill through both sides on the upper bolts? Then there is a long bolt that reaches all the way back there by the gas tank? Then you use a nut all the way back there, correct? What about the lower bolts? Just one layer and then there is a nut that fits on the back too?

 
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That is absolutely correct. Just be weary of the gas tank bracket when drilling through the top bolt hole of the driver side.

 
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Old Milwaukee beer [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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you should just trade in and get a 2k2. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]

 
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thats coooool gj man

 
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instead of welding that piece on, is it possible just to swap out the LX lower control arm for one for the EX that already has the bracket? It seems like it would be more of a hassle to do so, but it would be another option, nonetheless.

 
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Does the 2002 LX Civic Coupe have the LCA's like an EX or are they just the same? I guess I should go take a look at my car right? Sux to read posts in the morning when your at work..argghhh!!!

 
Rep Power: 420

You won't have to do this conversion to a 2002 LX. The 2002 LX already comes with a rear sway bar. Just upgrade to a bigger one. I reccomend the 22mm sway bar. Although you'll also need a tie bar to reinforce the frame in that location. Otherwise you could get failure due to stress on the frame from the sway bar while engaging in hard cornering. I would also reccomend the Progress Group's rear sway bar/tie bar combination. Costs less and you get a 2-for.

 
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I just ordered the progress rear anti-sway bar from the group buy center. Where did you get the idea it has a tie bar built in? From my understanding its just the rear anti-sway bar, not a combo deal. I alreaydy have the DC rear lower tie bar.... Progress website shows pictures of their bars and there is nothing that indicates a tie bar included, maybe you are thinking of some other brand.... I'll let you guys know how everything goes once I get it installed, it should be pretty easy to put on, just unbolt the new one and put the one one on. I like the fact it comes with all new hardware too...

 
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Lookey here: Progress Front/Rear Sways Installed-Reviews
We have the same setup in back as the RSX. Maybe it's just the RSX that gets the integrated rear tie bar? Maybe not? Let us know!

 
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I checked out that web page and it looks like 2 separate parts. The sway bar has gold mounts, but the tie bar has silver mounts and looks like it mounts behind the sway bar. I don't know if I like the way that looks or not....

 
Rep Power: 420

Who cares about looks! It's functional. That's what I'm going for. Maybe I'll paint the sway bar a different color to match my color scheme (red), but the integrated tie bar is kick-***! Strengthens everything and it looks like it actually works. Not like the wimpy DC Sports tie bar. And yes, I know what I'm talking about. I had one and I sold it. The mounts are off-axis from the way the forces are exerted. It relies on the torque applied to the bolts for stiffness. The Progress Group's design stiffens everything up, so the upgraded sway bar will exert some of it's twisting force on that integrated tie bar. An aftermarket tie bar and a 22mm sway bar aren't the best combination because they're not linked together. This design takes that into account. Granted, the Progress logo doesn't look that good. I tend to agree. I might not put on their sticker (if it is a sticker) and just make my own sticker. That font is butt ugly.

 
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Thats pretty baller dude, i have had couple of problems turning too sharp, this might help.

 
Rep Power: 369

the comptechusa rear sway/tie bar combo is similiar to that too...

I wonder how thick is that one on the rsx? the progress one.. its 22 right? no point getting the same 19mm thick sway bar painted green...

an integrated rear sway/tie is nice, but I dont think I need one for the 19mm rsx I got...

I am slapping on a neuspeed rear tie however, once that gets out.

 
Rep Power: 420

Yeah, the Progress rear sway bar is 22mm thick.

 
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I'd definitely be interested in getting that part, as long as I know that configuration is durable. I'm thining it might be more practical to just get an EX Lower control arm or something, but might be a lot more expensive. Get back to me about that part, will ya. THANKS.

 
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I just got an illustration of the rear end from a Honda dealership and I noticed that the sway bar in the picture here seems to go BEHIND where you bolted on your sway bar... Just wondering if I'm confusing something or if you actually had to set it up differently than the stock EX style.

Edit : Nevermind, I didn't notice the arrow pointing Forward saying "FRONT" [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

Sorry.

 
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I'm down! Let me know if you are making up those mounting brackets. Ive been taing my car to the Autocross and the body roll is terrible. I NEED to get it under controlso let me know if I can buy a couple of brackets from you.

Thanks!!!

 
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Make 'em make 'em!