Autocross for Newbs...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 
Autocross for Newbs...
I'm starting this... this is by all means unfinished... so the rest of you junkies can fill in what I missed, your own experiences, etc....
Stick whatever you want about getting started in here, try to keep the set up stuff 7th gen specific to keep confusion down (this is the noob thread) and keep it simple.
So here goes...
FAQ #1: What do I have to do to my car to autocross?
Answer: Nada, Zip, Zilch, Diddly Squat, NOTHING. Leave it alone, just show up and race it. You're not going to win your first time out, so don't put any money into something you don't know if you're even going to like. Bring the car, lunch and if you have one, a helmet. Most regions have loaners if you don't have one or can't find one to borrow from a friend.
7th Gen Civics fit into SCCA H-Stock, midly upgraded STS or STX depending upon what you do, then into SM if you make major alterations or any weight reduction. Street Prepared, it would fall into DSP.
www.moutons.org, read the class rules to see where you fall. There are limits to what you can modify, if you are unsure of the rules, ask BEFORE you buy parts.
Once you're hooked (it usually happens), you still do not need to turn your car into a money pit. Remaining in HS will keep the money spent on the car to a minimum since you aren't allowed to change too much. You're allowed a cat-back exhaust, R-compound tires that fit on stock size rims (14x5.5 or 15x6 and an offset within .25" of the stock +43mm), different front sway bar, and brake pads/stock sized rotors, and new shocks (NOT springs). Thats pretty much it.
STS ups the stakes to suspension mods, but read the rules carefully... not everything's legal. Diagonal braces and any bars that don't attach to the strut towers are illegal. Pillowballs are legal, but changing any other bushing to metal is not legal. Some bolt-on engine parts are legal, but read carefully and evaluate what they're really going to help. If you're really trying to build the car with autoX in mind, high end power should not be the goal, a wide powerband is. You'll be all over the rev range and getting 10 HP from 6000 up but loosing everything below 4500 isn't going to help you.
Street Mod would be for those of you with boost, swaps or carbon fiber crap. If you go here, you better go all out... and I hope you like playing with modified Evos, STis and other cars of the like. Thankfully, you can save yourself from the Corvettes, but you'll still have your hands full. Anyone with an unblown D17 here... ummmm, no comment. Take the carbon fiber eye candy off, drop classes.
I've found the following crap out from starting off.
1. Stock tires suck. If you change anything right off the bat, lose them.
2. The stock suspension is more than able to handle the car. The one thing I would suggest is the 16mm sway bar. The 25.4mm bar is a little thick for the 13 in the back, but do this after you've done a few events.
3. No blaming the car. You suck at driving. If you're not smooth, the car won't like you, and neither will the timing lights.
4. Ask as many questions as you can. No one will turn away someone who wants to learn the right way.
5. Ask for rides with people that are good. Same reason as #4.
6. Ask good drivers to ride fun runs with you. Refer to #5.
7. If you hit a cone, forget it, you just ran its punk *** over. Just don't hit it next time.
8. If you DNF (Did Not Follow), find out from Timing and Scoring where you missed a cone (if you don't already know) so you don't miss it again.
9. Walk the course, walk the course, walk the course.... as many times as you can.
I'll think of more later... ok guys.... add to it.
Stick whatever you want about getting started in here, try to keep the set up stuff 7th gen specific to keep confusion down (this is the noob thread) and keep it simple.
So here goes...
FAQ #1: What do I have to do to my car to autocross?
Answer: Nada, Zip, Zilch, Diddly Squat, NOTHING. Leave it alone, just show up and race it. You're not going to win your first time out, so don't put any money into something you don't know if you're even going to like. Bring the car, lunch and if you have one, a helmet. Most regions have loaners if you don't have one or can't find one to borrow from a friend.
7th Gen Civics fit into SCCA H-Stock, midly upgraded STS or STX depending upon what you do, then into SM if you make major alterations or any weight reduction. Street Prepared, it would fall into DSP.
www.moutons.org, read the class rules to see where you fall. There are limits to what you can modify, if you are unsure of the rules, ask BEFORE you buy parts.
Once you're hooked (it usually happens), you still do not need to turn your car into a money pit. Remaining in HS will keep the money spent on the car to a minimum since you aren't allowed to change too much. You're allowed a cat-back exhaust, R-compound tires that fit on stock size rims (14x5.5 or 15x6 and an offset within .25" of the stock +43mm), different front sway bar, and brake pads/stock sized rotors, and new shocks (NOT springs). Thats pretty much it.
STS ups the stakes to suspension mods, but read the rules carefully... not everything's legal. Diagonal braces and any bars that don't attach to the strut towers are illegal. Pillowballs are legal, but changing any other bushing to metal is not legal. Some bolt-on engine parts are legal, but read carefully and evaluate what they're really going to help. If you're really trying to build the car with autoX in mind, high end power should not be the goal, a wide powerband is. You'll be all over the rev range and getting 10 HP from 6000 up but loosing everything below 4500 isn't going to help you.
Street Mod would be for those of you with boost, swaps or carbon fiber crap. If you go here, you better go all out... and I hope you like playing with modified Evos, STis and other cars of the like. Thankfully, you can save yourself from the Corvettes, but you'll still have your hands full. Anyone with an unblown D17 here... ummmm, no comment. Take the carbon fiber eye candy off, drop classes.
I've found the following crap out from starting off.
1. Stock tires suck. If you change anything right off the bat, lose them.
2. The stock suspension is more than able to handle the car. The one thing I would suggest is the 16mm sway bar. The 25.4mm bar is a little thick for the 13 in the back, but do this after you've done a few events.
3. No blaming the car. You suck at driving. If you're not smooth, the car won't like you, and neither will the timing lights.
4. Ask as many questions as you can. No one will turn away someone who wants to learn the right way.
5. Ask for rides with people that are good. Same reason as #4.
6. Ask good drivers to ride fun runs with you. Refer to #5.
7. If you hit a cone, forget it, you just ran its punk *** over. Just don't hit it next time.
8. If you DNF (Did Not Follow), find out from Timing and Scoring where you missed a cone (if you don't already know) so you don't miss it again.
9. Walk the course, walk the course, walk the course.... as many times as you can.
I'll think of more later... ok guys.... add to it.
Last edited by Boilermaker1; Apr 22, 2004 at 09:09 AM.
Addicted to the Twisties!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,693
Likes: 0
From: Littleton, Co
Rep Power: 314 BREATH DAMN IT !!! (I was SO winded after my VERY first run, because I forgot to breath I was concentrating soooo hard, lol)
LOOK AHEAD...if you're constantly RE-acting to the curves...you're gonna get HOSED. If instead you are looking ahead and planning where you want the car to be coming out of Z corner, it's easier if you place the car in the right spot at turn/corner X and Y. I know, I know you're saying WTF...but TRUST ME, planning ahead will take at LEAST 2-3 seconds off your time, ****...maybe more! lol
Get a copy of the course map and look at it WHILE you walk it. PLAN YOUR SHIFTS and entry points/exit points for EACH TURN !!! I usually have a game plan for trying different things. First run, I'll shift at X point on the course (whether it be up or down). Second run I'll shift at a different point on the course, every run after that, DO THE SHIFTS/ADJUSTMENTS THAT WERE FASTER!!) Also I try and watch the best in my class AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE to see where they are on the course and copy that as best I can, they're usually faster, lol.
START WITH YOUR TIRES OVER INFLATED BEFORE YOU DO YOUR FIRST RUN...it's WAY easier to let air out quickly than it is to pump it back in...not really a big deal, but more of a time saver...IMO.
One thing that I personally do, pick yer bitch. Pick a car/driver that is one of the fastest in the class, watch them, talk to them, and BE THEM. If you can. lol
Ok...that's my $0.02
LOOK AHEAD...if you're constantly RE-acting to the curves...you're gonna get HOSED. If instead you are looking ahead and planning where you want the car to be coming out of Z corner, it's easier if you place the car in the right spot at turn/corner X and Y. I know, I know you're saying WTF...but TRUST ME, planning ahead will take at LEAST 2-3 seconds off your time, ****...maybe more! lol
Get a copy of the course map and look at it WHILE you walk it. PLAN YOUR SHIFTS and entry points/exit points for EACH TURN !!! I usually have a game plan for trying different things. First run, I'll shift at X point on the course (whether it be up or down). Second run I'll shift at a different point on the course, every run after that, DO THE SHIFTS/ADJUSTMENTS THAT WERE FASTER!!) Also I try and watch the best in my class AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE to see where they are on the course and copy that as best I can, they're usually faster, lol.
START WITH YOUR TIRES OVER INFLATED BEFORE YOU DO YOUR FIRST RUN...it's WAY easier to let air out quickly than it is to pump it back in...not really a big deal, but more of a time saver...IMO.
One thing that I personally do, pick yer bitch. Pick a car/driver that is one of the fastest in the class, watch them, talk to them, and BE THEM. If you can. lol
Ok...that's my $0.02
Last edited by FattyMcJ; Mar 25, 2004 at 12:21 AM.
Registered!!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
Rep Power: 0 For those who do not know what Autocross is or what it means:
Autocross/Solo II events are low to medium speed auto racing events; they are often run on parking lots and airport runways, although street events and events at Go Kart tracks sometimes take place. Generally a course will be defined using traffic cones. One driver at a time negotiates a course laid out with the cones, or pylons, testing their skill against the clock. Time penalties are charged for disturbing cones. In most regions, the penalty is 2 seconds per cone, although in some places it may be 1 second.
Generally, each driver takes three or four runs at an event. A driver is awarded the best time of all runs taken.
For clubs in your area start here http://www.autocross.com/
Autocross/Solo II events are low to medium speed auto racing events; they are often run on parking lots and airport runways, although street events and events at Go Kart tracks sometimes take place. Generally a course will be defined using traffic cones. One driver at a time negotiates a course laid out with the cones, or pylons, testing their skill against the clock. Time penalties are charged for disturbing cones. In most regions, the penalty is 2 seconds per cone, although in some places it may be 1 second.
Generally, each driver takes three or four runs at an event. A driver is awarded the best time of all runs taken.
For clubs in your area start here http://www.autocross.com/
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 Good so now have a NOOB thread and a non-noob thread or common knowledge and personal experiences or something.... We've got a whole forum... lets use some of the bandwidth we were granted for legal racing.
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 10,857
Likes: 0
From: Gaithersburg, MD
Rep Power: 412 I make this forum for you guys and you can't even read the FAQ!! muhahaha....And no I wasn't talking to you Justin...Lberry must have missed the training course 
Advice:
Talk to the guys with the grey hair and fast times!! They have been driving A LOT longer than you have.
If you are uncomfortable with navigating the course the 1st or 2nd time, get someone to ride with you to tell you where you messed up.
Make sure you can pass tech before you get down there. Check battery, fluids, intake, wheels, etc.
You MUST PREPARE your car before tech. That means you must put on your race tires before you go in for tech. You can do some adjusting to the coils/tire pressure/etc while you are pitted but you must have the parts you are going to race with, on the car before tech.
Enjoy a good time!!
Advice:
Talk to the guys with the grey hair and fast times!! They have been driving A LOT longer than you have.
If you are uncomfortable with navigating the course the 1st or 2nd time, get someone to ride with you to tell you where you messed up.
Make sure you can pass tech before you get down there. Check battery, fluids, intake, wheels, etc.
You MUST PREPARE your car before tech. That means you must put on your race tires before you go in for tech. You can do some adjusting to the coils/tire pressure/etc while you are pitted but you must have the parts you are going to race with, on the car before tech.
Enjoy a good time!!
Registered!!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Lafayette, IN
Rep Power: 0 Here's a tip I would've appreciated at my first event:
-BRING LOTS OF WATER. When you're standing out on the hot pavement at the end of July for 2 hours you can't have enough water. I generally bring a gallon jug that I fill up before the event at home.
And some more:
-Also, I'd like to reinforce the idea of moderation. Don't go spend a bunch of money on your car in preperation for something you've never done. Get out, run a some events, learn to drive, then spend the money.
-When in a spin, both feet in. Obviously this applies to the brake and the clutch, please don't slam the gas... Unless you're really sure you can save it, just try and get the car safely stopped. Most of the time if a spin is bad enough you've already screwed your time anyhow; this isn't a drift competition. I watched a guy spin and slide across the grass and end up 10 feet from the timing and scoring tent, along with about 20 people, because he thought he could "save it". Don't try to be a hero.
-If you're new, you'll probably want to just chase cones when you work. But for some reason if you do end up tending the flag, don't be scared to use it if you have to. As time goes on you'll learn to recognize whether or not a situation requires a red flag, but when in doubt, throw it. Its better to give someone on the course a re-run rather than have someone hurt. If anyone gives you hard time then they're an ***.
-BRING LOTS OF WATER. When you're standing out on the hot pavement at the end of July for 2 hours you can't have enough water. I generally bring a gallon jug that I fill up before the event at home.
And some more:
-Also, I'd like to reinforce the idea of moderation. Don't go spend a bunch of money on your car in preperation for something you've never done. Get out, run a some events, learn to drive, then spend the money.
-When in a spin, both feet in. Obviously this applies to the brake and the clutch, please don't slam the gas... Unless you're really sure you can save it, just try and get the car safely stopped. Most of the time if a spin is bad enough you've already screwed your time anyhow; this isn't a drift competition. I watched a guy spin and slide across the grass and end up 10 feet from the timing and scoring tent, along with about 20 people, because he thought he could "save it". Don't try to be a hero.
-If you're new, you'll probably want to just chase cones when you work. But for some reason if you do end up tending the flag, don't be scared to use it if you have to. As time goes on you'll learn to recognize whether or not a situation requires a red flag, but when in doubt, throw it. Its better to give someone on the course a re-run rather than have someone hurt. If anyone gives you hard time then they're an ***.
<--That really is ME
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,023
Likes: 0
From: Scarborough, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 0 I'd love to get into this..... thanx for the great info dood...
I've done track once but babied the car... my whole team does circuit... and its kinda / almost the same... ITS THE DRIVER i'll be hangin' around here learnin' and postin' alot more..
peace guys and thanx
I've done track once but babied the car... my whole team does circuit... and its kinda / almost the same... ITS THE DRIVER i'll be hangin' around here learnin' and postin' alot more..
peace guys and thanx
Zoom zoom
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,362
Likes: 0
From: dallas, Texas, US
Rep Power: 318 If you dont have magnetic numbers yet, make sure you get the *good* masking tape, the blue painters tape. Buying the normal crap last minute from a grocery store will most likely require an afternoon & a bottle of goo gone unless you enjoy square numbers half stuck to the side of your car 
Addicted to the Twisties!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,693
Likes: 0
From: Littleton, Co
Rep Power: 314 ROFLMAO....I've heard of this happening before...
but...
I've used the crappy masking tape to hold on paper numbers before, and I've NEVER had a problem with it, so I guess it's all a matter of luck my friend. Either way...HAVE FUN!!!
but...
I've used the crappy masking tape to hold on paper numbers before, and I've NEVER had a problem with it, so I guess it's all a matter of luck my friend. Either way...HAVE FUN!!!
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 10,857
Likes: 0
From: Gaithersburg, MD
Rep Power: 412 It is easier if you PRINT out the number in a very large font set and tape them with just simple clear tape to the INSIDE of your window. It works fine, i have done it a few times. This way it keeps it off your paint. Put it on right before your heat and take it off right after and you shouldn't have a problem.
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 10,857
Likes: 0
From: Gaithersburg, MD
Rep Power: 412 you can on your rear windows. they use shoe polish in my area. So to avoid that I printed out my numbers. No one has bitched at me. I have magnets now though.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 Originally posted by robbclark1
It is easier if you PRINT out the number in a very large font set and tape them with just simple clear tape to the INSIDE of your window. It works fine, i have done it a few times. This way it keeps it off your paint. Put it on right before your heat and take it off right after and you shouldn't have a problem.
It is easier if you PRINT out the number in a very large font set and tape them with just simple clear tape to the INSIDE of your window. It works fine, i have done it a few times. This way it keeps it off your paint. Put it on right before your heat and take it off right after and you shouldn't have a problem.
If you print it out in size 20 font, I will also come hit you, cuz that can't be read either. 6" minimum (SCCA spec says 8" numbers, 4" letters) ... they gotta be read when you're doing 40 or 50 mph.
Autocross Junky
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,211
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, Nevada, US
Rep Power: 380 Our region has recent instituted a new Number policy.... All cars must comply with the National Rules regarding Numbers and Classes (For cars with Permenent numbers) If you are assigned an # at the event, then you are requiered to tape the # to the Door with the provieded Lo-tac tape.
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 10,857
Likes: 0
From: Gaithersburg, MD
Rep Power: 412 Like I said, no one ever bitched at me for it. I don't have tinted windows and you could see the numbers. That is all that mattered to them.
Addicted to the Twisties!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,693
Likes: 0
From: Littleton, Co
Rep Power: 314 Originally posted by Boilermaker1
I, as a corner worker, will come over to the grid and hit you.
If you print it out in size 20 font, I will also come hit you, cuz that can't be read either.
I, as a corner worker, will come over to the grid and hit you.
If you print it out in size 20 font, I will also come hit you, cuz that can't be read either.
ROFLMAO....good call.
Also...remember to tighten your gas plug...last time a car was spilling gas all over the track, every left turn, and people were gettin' PISSED. I almost got gas all over me, if I had been a lil faster to go get the cone in front of him, lol. I guess being fat has it's advantages...lol
Registered!!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 0
From: Jonestown, Pennsylvania, US
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by FattyMcJ
Get a copy of the course map and look at it WHILE you walk it. PLAN YOUR SHIFTS and entry points/exit points for EACH TURN !!! I usually have a game plan for trying different things. First run, I'll shift at X point on the course (whether it be up or down). Second run I'll shift at a different point on the course, every run after that, DO THE SHIFTS/ADJUSTMENTS THAT WERE FASTER!!) Also I try and watch the best in my class AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE to see where they are on the course and copy that as best I can, they're usually faster, lol.
Get a copy of the course map and look at it WHILE you walk it. PLAN YOUR SHIFTS and entry points/exit points for EACH TURN !!! I usually have a game plan for trying different things. First run, I'll shift at X point on the course (whether it be up or down). Second run I'll shift at a different point on the course, every run after that, DO THE SHIFTS/ADJUSTMENTS THAT WERE FASTER!!) Also I try and watch the best in my class AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE to see where they are on the course and copy that as best I can, they're usually faster, lol.
or gradually get more aggressive every lap?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 3
From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 Everyone has their own method to the madness. Some people go ***** to the walls the first run, hit a few cones then back it off. Other people just toss the first run but figure out how fast they might be able to go, then ramp it up. Other people can just crank it off controlled but fast, it all depends, everyone's different. Usually when you're just starting out, if you can make each successive run faster, you're doing well. Once you start to improve, you'll find that the time differences between runs decreases or may just stay about the same. But consistency is only good if you're fast. Play with it, see what works.
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 10,857
Likes: 0
From: Gaithersburg, MD
Rep Power: 412 Most people start of slow to learn the course. I am one of those. I start off slow and get faster. It is the guys that are crazy that go all out for the first run. While they may have a different approach they are usually the most fun to watch!
Thread
Thread Starter
Honda Civic Forum
Replies
Last Post
Zzyzx
General Automotive Discussion
12
Apr 17, 2003 09:35 PM
