dj pyrotechnics

Recently ive been getting interested in autox and a had a few quick questions for you autocrossers.

1. Typically a smaller wheel is better for autox right? I wanted to get 18s, but if i really like autox (probably will) i will probably get whatever is best.

2. What do you need to get started exactly? From what i understood on the SCCA page is that i need an SCCA license, a helmet, and a car (duh)... is there anything else?

3. What mods are suggested? aftermarket wheels with racing tires? just tires? neuspeed springs? what else?

4. About how much money should i spend to make my car streetable (full interior and everything) yet handle like its on rails?

5. Is there a compromise where i could make my car very showwy (ICE, Rims, kit, so on) and still be able to autox well?

any advice or help would be very much appriciated.

ps I drive a 2002 LX 2dr

Dr5D

iTrader: (6)

If you change anything on your car beyond what comes stock it is in a different class. I would say just get better tires for your factory wheels. You could get nice wheels and just change them when you get there. If you get bumped into the next class for one stupid thing you will get stomped. Oh, and they should have loner helmets for you there

Now if you do want to mod your car just for auto x, then you should get wider lightweight wheels, front strut bar, and the two for the rear. That thing that goes under your car that looks like an X, I think it’s called an x-brace or something. Then, obviously you should lower it as much as possible. If you are smart enough you can adjust your camber and toe, it helps with all the cornering and stuff.

There is a book called Secrets of Solo Racing that is awesome. I got it for like $15 at b&n.

dj pyrotechnics

well i already have an AEM CAI.. would that bump me up to the modded class?

Dr5D

iTrader: (6)

Yes, they do an engine inspection before you race, and that would definitely bump you up.

dj pyrotechnics

lol it shouldnt for our cars, it doesnt do crap

Dr5D

iTrader: (6)

no kidding. around here autocross is only like every month or so, you could just chage it the day before or somthing. I dont know if you have been out to an event, but some people are crazy serious and have done about everything to some POS that makes is kill everyone elses times

dj pyrotechnics

yea ive seen some pics of novices like this



and some that are really serious like this



apparently where i live is the "home of the annual SCCA ProSolo & Solo2 nat'l tour openers"
i guess thats a good thing and this is a tiny town too!

dj pyrotechnics

and i cant forget this car ! i believe its here in fort myers as well!

Dr5D

iTrader: (6)

Topeka KS is where major solos are in this area... last time i went there was some guy that had what looked like a Plymoth Horison with ugly (like black and dirty) little wheels that totally stuck out the sides. the car looked like total crap but it whooped on many people

Dr5D

iTrader: (6)

dude my dads best friend in Denver has a car exactly like that!!! cobra right? those hall *****! he autoXs as well. i know thats not him cause he dosent have chrome wheels.

dj pyrotechnics

yea there arent too many beaters that i see.. actually i saw porsches, bmws, celicas, saleens, and tons of other nice *** cars in some pics from the autox events here

dj pyrotechnics

oh also could you also try to answer the rest of my questions if you can

Zzyzx

Welcom to autocross......... have fun


answers to your questions.

1. Smaller is better!!!! basically you want the smallest/lightest wheel with the widest tire you can put on it. the smaller diamiter and lower weight will help with acceleration,.

I run a set of Rota SLipstreams 11.8lbs with Falken Azenis sport tires 205/50R15 (Cheep and sticky!)

2. you do not need to be a member to race locally. If you want to be involved with the nationals then yes you have to be a member. other then that, most clubs have Loaner helmets. Curently if you really want to buy a helmet, the minimum rating of that helmet is M98. I suggest getting a M2000 or better (SA2000).

3. The best way to learn is stock. But if you've all ready modded stuff then STS (where I race) is also a good place to start. Really, you dont need any thing at all on your car. Really. Basically at this point, with you never been autocrossing before, then NO mods will help you win, because YOU will be the only part making you slow. Its a hard pill to swallow but its true.

4. That really depends on you. right now all your cash should be spend on you and learning as much about handling and performance driving as you can. Go to a drivng school. Evoluton Performance Driving school is an Excelent place to start
once you find that the car is slowing you down, then its time to chang parts.

5. If you want show and race, then its going to get expensive. you want the car to be as light as possible (Amps and subwoofers should be light or easily removable.) Body kits probably will not help or hinder you much, unless its heavier then stock. (remeber low weight is your friend)


other wise, race the car how it is now. get use to it, how it pushes in the slow corners and is loose in the fast sweepers. also, TALK to all the OLD DRIVERS!!!!!! ask if you can walk the course with them, ask them about the track, see if you can ride with them, and when you do, watch the driver not the ride!!! you first year is nothing but learning, dont expect to win, but dont let that discurage you.

Keep racing and Keep the shiny side up!!

Zzyzx

oh ya, that cobra aint nothin.

think.....1900lbs with 500Hp

dj pyrotechnics

thanks for all your help zzyzx! unfortunately there are no events til sept so i cant go check out the autox before i try.. all i can do is watch some vids and see pics. im sure its nothing like being behind the wheel! for some reason tho i was thinking about autox all day at work and "rota slipstreams" was stuck in my head.. maybe god wants me to get those instead of my 18" arospeeds :-D

Dr5D

iTrader: (6)

i am proably going to repeat myself, but oh well.....

you could get nice wheels and just change them back to stock when you get there or somthing, you will be in a different class if you leave them on. Now if you get wheels that at 14s or 15s and the same width as the factory wheels, then it should be alright. If you do that then you could get a lighter wheel that improves steering response, and is just plain weight reduction. I bet if you bought Honda brand wheels that were bigger or wider they would not say snything as long as they did not look out of place. i dont really know if the size of the wheel makes a difference, tho the tire pressure does matter.

They should provide loner helments at the events. you will also need some way to put a number on your car. the stuff they sell to write on windows is proably the cheapest, but you could buy magnetic numbers or somthing, just make surenobody else has the same number.

If you want to be in the stock class, do NOHTING. about all you can do is spark plugs and taillights. no body kits, engine, or suspension mods. You may be able to do weight reduction, but im not sure about that. You can also change your brake pads wich will help alot. Ive got EBC GreenStuff pads and I love them. they are for street/light race/solo II use, only problem is that they stink
Now if you want to be is the modded class, you can do whatever you want to the engine since it dosent do a whole lot, but first you shuold do the suspension. Number one: lower it. that will improve handling more than anything. You should also purchase wider wheels, the x brace (I think that’s the name), and the 3 stabilizer bars. Weight reduction always helps too.
As far as tires, it depends. if you are only going to use the tires for autocross, or if you are going to also use them for daily drivers.

however much you want, and see above

well to a point, but you wouldent want heavy subs and a fancy paint job on a car you are going to autoX with

check out the book called Secrets of Solo Racing. its all about solo racing (obviously!), tells you everything you need to know except the names of the parts to get. It tells you how to take corners, check the course, and everthing else that happens out there. Like i said i got mine at b&n for about $15, but i know its available to read on line, but its real long so i just bought it. anyways, its good to have aroud, and be able to take to the events and stuff. just about everything anyone could tell you is in that book i swear. the only catch with the book is that the guy who wrote it always drive a rwd car, so some parts dont apply, but it still helps a TON.

sCoTtEh

sounds like fun

dj pyrotechnics

thanks very much guys!

Dr5D

iTrader: (6)

any more questions???

dj pyrotechnics

not yet but as soon as i do i know who to ask!

Chocobo

iTrader: (2)

cool now i wanna race my sedan....

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

[B]Recently ive been getting interested in autox and a had a few quick questions for you autocrossers.

1. Typically a smaller wheel is better for autox right? I wanted to get 18s, but if i really like autox (probably will) i will probably get whatever is best.

If you want to stay stock... then find some old Integra 14x5.5 Alloy wheels and your're set. You can change the tires as long as the rim is the same size.
For STS, I'd still stick with 14" since you can, but go 14x6 or 7", or 15x7.
In stock classes, you're allowed to run DOT approved Slicks (Kumho Victoracers and V700 seem to be very popular), in STS you need a street tire with a treadwear of 140 or above. Falken Azenis and Kumho Ecsta MX are the 2 biggies. I would recommend a separate set of rims for racing. Something I need to start doing.

2. What do you need to get started exactly? From what i understood on the SCCA page is that i need an SCCA license, a helmet, and a car (duh)... is there anything else?

A helmet (some places have loaners), a valid state DL, and a car that isn't broken. The SCCA liscense is for Solo I and Club Racing. Solo II just requires a DL.

3. What mods are suggested? aftermarket wheels with racing tires? just tires? neuspeed springs? what else?

For stock, you can also have a cat-back exhaust, thats really about it. I think you can change the shocks, but not the springs.... check on that. To go STS, Adjustable shocks and springs or full coils, All the bars, I/H/E, camber adjusters... thats pretty much all you can change. Your stock cat must stay in place. So if you've got an LX, your header is kinda stuck there (unless you can just swap the top... I've never seen what it looks like). I'd also recommend a harness , but make sure you like it before you start tossing all this money. Do it a few times with what you have now... THEN start dropping money.

4. About how much money should i spend to make my car streetable (full interior and everything) yet handle like its on rails?

I'd budget $2000 in parts for a suspension make over.

5. Is there a compromise where i could make my car very showwy (ICE, Rims, kit, so on) and still be able to autox well?

If it weighs a lot, ditch it. NO KITS... they put you in Street Mod, which is not a good place with 115 HP. The only one you can legally have is the Honda kit, since its an available option for the car. You can have that and still run stock or ST classes. If you want ICE, just make sure the box can be easily removed (for weight and because you can't have loose stuff in the car). Big rims are heavy. They slow you down. Skip neons, you'll break them. If you want 18's get them, but don't race on them. I'm getting off my 17's next spring, even though they only weigh 15 lbs and going to 15's.

If you want an autocross car, and a show car... go JDM Style. But do be prepaired to fix some scuffs and chips on occasion. Tracks aren't always on the best surfaces, and you occasionally kick some rocks up. Also be prepared to hit a cone or 2... no big deal, remember, you ran its punk *** over, but they sometimes scuff. Usually it comes right off though.

Zzyzx

Good listing of rules for SCCA Solo II (Autocross)



Street Touring

17.2. BODY WORK
A. Pedal kits and other interior cosmetic accessories may be added.
B. Any fully padded and upholstered front seats with reclining seat backs, rear seats may not be removed.
C. Removal of factory trim (rub strips, emblems)
D. Alternate steering wheels are allowed except that steering wheels with an integral airbag may not be changed.
E. Fenders may not be cut or flared but the inside lip may be rolled in order to gain tire clearance. Flares that are part (left out of rulebook for 2003, but I predict it will return...Ed.) of body kits may be attached to the stock fenders. The intention is to allow cars to maximize tire width up to the maximum allowable size. No other changes to the stock fenders or wheel wells are permitted.
F. Spoilers, body kits, rear wings, etc.


So body kits are allowed

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

hmmm... thats wierd. They told some guy here he couldn't, and that was part of the reason. Oh well... they're still not to your advantage.

Zzyzx

STS was designed to get us "Street racers" interested in autocross.

So they took a look at what the most common mods were and added them in to the class.

civicskater

where can i find dates for local events in my area? the SCCA website? I really want to start autox'ing i think its awesome, and i live in North Carolina where Nascar is really big so theres tracks in a bunch of areas

Zzyzx

Heres a listing of regions form the SCCA

http://www.scca.org/interactive/regions.html



Heres a good site dealing with Autocross

They have a listing of clubs other then the SCCA that do autocross.

RunawaySoul

I'd autocross the Vette but I'm scared of driving it normally. I'll definitely do this when I get a Civic again. I can finally drive like an idiot without getting a ticket.

Zzyzx

why not run the vette? Its the best place to learn how it handles.


These guys do.


Vettes are quite possibly the most popular car to run in Autocross.

Dr5D

iTrader: (6)

heck yea, there were tons of them last time i went