New to the forum...Tell me about the 7th gen.
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New to the forum...Tell me about the 7th gen.
Hi all,
I just joined the forum because I am expecting to buy a civic coupe next year. Just trying to learn a little about these cars before I buy one.
First I was wondering if there is any powertrain strength difference between the DX/LX/HX/EX models...I read all of these numbers for the powertrains here that dont mean much to me.
The car will be a daily driver, not trying to make it fast. I would like to make it look nice though. I am planning on wheels and a drop...If anyone could educate me on the best way to drop the car to loose the least amount of ride quality I would appreciate it. I am thinking to just go with a set of springs.
Right now I am torn between silver and that gunmetal color that they offer. Am thinking about going with the factory Honda side skirts, a 1.5" drop, color matched wheels (silver or gunmetal) with a polished lip, and a QUIET exhaust with a decent looking polished can.
Any info would be appreciated, great site, lots of good info
I just joined the forum because I am expecting to buy a civic coupe next year. Just trying to learn a little about these cars before I buy one.
First I was wondering if there is any powertrain strength difference between the DX/LX/HX/EX models...I read all of these numbers for the powertrains here that dont mean much to me.
The car will be a daily driver, not trying to make it fast. I would like to make it look nice though. I am planning on wheels and a drop...If anyone could educate me on the best way to drop the car to loose the least amount of ride quality I would appreciate it. I am thinking to just go with a set of springs.
Right now I am torn between silver and that gunmetal color that they offer. Am thinking about going with the factory Honda side skirts, a 1.5" drop, color matched wheels (silver or gunmetal) with a polished lip, and a QUIET exhaust with a decent looking polished can.
Any info would be appreciated, great site, lots of good info
Last edited by niphilli; Jan 30, 2005 at 07:02 AM.
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you can expect alot of this
OMG ITS A NOOB, just kidding there are alot of cool people on this forum
As you may already know the EX is the most powerful of the bunch making 127 hp, but its also the heaviest. In general nearly all the models are on par in accerlation. The manual Civics are noticibaly faster than the automatics so if at all possible GET THE MANUAL!!!. The DX model was replaced in 2004 for the VP (Value Package), but it doesn't come witha tach so getting that in a manual requires an aftermarket tach.
AS for powertrain strength, i believe the clutch goes got at about 200whp on all model civics, so heavy modding requires a new clutch.
As for springs, I haven't had any experience with lowering springs, but I haven't heard anything bad about any of the brands of springs.
Also for color, It really depends on how much you want to wash your car. The silver hides dirt better than the gunmetal, but when both cars car nice and clean the gun metal looks very nice. SO if you think you can wash the car on a regular basis the I'd go for the gunmetal. But if you can't fit a car wash every 2 weeks then get the Silver.
OMG ITS A NOOB, just kidding there are alot of cool people on this forum
As you may already know the EX is the most powerful of the bunch making 127 hp, but its also the heaviest. In general nearly all the models are on par in accerlation. The manual Civics are noticibaly faster than the automatics so if at all possible GET THE MANUAL!!!. The DX model was replaced in 2004 for the VP (Value Package), but it doesn't come witha tach so getting that in a manual requires an aftermarket tach.
AS for powertrain strength, i believe the clutch goes got at about 200whp on all model civics, so heavy modding requires a new clutch.
As for springs, I haven't had any experience with lowering springs, but I haven't heard anything bad about any of the brands of springs.
Also for color, It really depends on how much you want to wash your car. The silver hides dirt better than the gunmetal, but when both cars car nice and clean the gun metal looks very nice. SO if you think you can wash the car on a regular basis the I'd go for the gunmetal. But if you can't fit a car wash every 2 weeks then get the Silver.
Last edited by Got Boost???; Jan 30, 2005 at 07:17 AM.
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Rep Power: 412 I am glad that you are interested in purchasing a civic. I can tell you that there is a lot of information on the site and everyone has their own opinion. I suggested read the FAQs for each section (there is one for each type - wheels, suspension, forced induction) and searching around. Educate yourself before buying parts and you will be much happier with your purchases.
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Originally Posted by Got Boost???
you can expect alot of this
OMG ITS A NOOB, just kidding there are alot of cool people on this forum
As you may already know the EX is the most powerful of the bunch making 127 hp, but its also the heaviest. In general nearly all the models are on par in accerlation. The manual Civics are noticibaly faster than the automatics so if at all possible GET THE MANUAL!!!. The DX model was replaced in 2004 for the VP (Value Package), but it doesn't come witha tach so getting that in a manual requires an aftermarket tach.
AS for powertrain strength, i believe the clutch goes got at about 200whp on all model civics, so heavy modding requires a new clutch.
As for springs, I haven't had any experience with lowering springs, but I haven't heard anything bad about any of the brands of springs.
Also for color, It really depends on how much you want to wash your car. The silver hides dirt better than the gunmetal, but when both cars car nice and clean the gun metal looks very nice. SO if you think you can wash the car on a regular basis the I'd go for the gunmetal. But if you can't fit a car wash every 2 weeks then get the Silver.
OMG ITS A NOOB, just kidding there are alot of cool people on this forum
As you may already know the EX is the most powerful of the bunch making 127 hp, but its also the heaviest. In general nearly all the models are on par in accerlation. The manual Civics are noticibaly faster than the automatics so if at all possible GET THE MANUAL!!!. The DX model was replaced in 2004 for the VP (Value Package), but it doesn't come witha tach so getting that in a manual requires an aftermarket tach.
AS for powertrain strength, i believe the clutch goes got at about 200whp on all model civics, so heavy modding requires a new clutch.
As for springs, I haven't had any experience with lowering springs, but I haven't heard anything bad about any of the brands of springs.
Also for color, It really depends on how much you want to wash your car. The silver hides dirt better than the gunmetal, but when both cars car nice and clean the gun metal looks very nice. SO if you think you can wash the car on a regular basis the I'd go for the gunmetal. But if you can't fit a car wash every 2 weeks then get the Silver.
I am torn between the two colors for the exact reasons you mention. I like the gunmetal color a little better and think it is more unique, but the silver looks nice also and is easier to keep clean.
On Springs- I will post this when I get closer to buying in the suspension section, was just wondering if shorter springs cause miss alignment problems or premature wear of the shocks.
I am glad that you are interested in purchasing a civic. I can tell you that there is a lot of information on the site and everyone has their own opinion. I suggested read the FAQs for each section (there is one for each type - wheels, suspension, forced induction) and searching around. Educate yourself before buying parts and you will be much happier with your purchases.
Last edited by niphilli; Jan 30, 2005 at 09:03 AM.
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Rep Power: 0 true coilovers will give u the best ride quality i believe.. they are a lot more expensive then just springs though, about 600-1500 bux depending on what u want. I have neuspeed race springs which are 2f 2.25r drop, and they ride isn't far from stock until ur shocks start going then it gets bouncy. But if u get aftermarket shocks with springs or coilovers then the ride shouldn't be that much worse then stock
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Originally Posted by ACURAwerx
true coilovers will give u the best ride quality i believe.. they are a lot more expensive then just springs though, about 600-1500 bux depending on what u want. I have neuspeed race springs which are 2f 2.25r drop, and they ride isn't far from stock until ur shocks start going then it gets bouncy. But if u get aftermarket shocks with springs or coilovers then the ride shouldn't be that much worse then stock
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Rep Power: 0 i dont know waht u mean by lossen dental work, but true coilovers comes with the spring and shocks and they work the best because they were made for each other! if your just getting a 1.5 drop or something i think u should just get springs and shocks later down the road. If ur going 2 or lower i suggest getting coil overs, because i have springs and wish i could raise my car up and sometimes its just a pain. for instance, getting on and off a tow truck! also, if u get adjustable shocks, you can adjust the stiffness to what you like
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^^^ true...
the HFP package give u a 1" drop i'd imagine that since its factory it'd be the best ride qual, and 1" drop w/ a lip kit or aero kit would look good IMO. the kits are rather expensive.. just depends on the route u wanna take of course if u get factory aero kit and HFP, its all under warranty.. HFP offers more than just the 1" drop.. u get diff rims and some other stuff too, I think.. neway, im not sure if i'd get the hfp/aero kit/lip kit factory.. u can buy OEM/oem replica stuff online cheap, but then its up to you to get it installed or DIY.
the HFP package give u a 1" drop i'd imagine that since its factory it'd be the best ride qual, and 1" drop w/ a lip kit or aero kit would look good IMO. the kits are rather expensive.. just depends on the route u wanna take of course if u get factory aero kit and HFP, its all under warranty.. HFP offers more than just the 1" drop.. u get diff rims and some other stuff too, I think.. neway, im not sure if i'd get the hfp/aero kit/lip kit factory.. u can buy OEM/oem replica stuff online cheap, but then its up to you to get it installed or DIY.
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Like the others, I'm glad to see you're getting a 7thgen, you won't be disappointed ( as long as you get a manual ) lol........................ i have a silver one and yes the snow/salt marks arent as visible as say, a black car but then again, silver can get very dull when you go to cali and see all those fruity ricers ( or miami..whichever).. but anyways good choice and welcome !
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Originally Posted by doubledeuce2k2
i'm glad you said you don't want it to be fast, you won't be dissapointed then
What....?
You mean I can't just buy a Naaaaws kit and live my life ten seconds at a time like in the movies
the HFP package give u a 1" drop i'd imagine that since its factory it'd be the best ride qual, and 1" drop w/ a lip kit or aero kit would look good IMO. the kits are rather expensive.. just depends on the route u wanna take of course if u get factory aero kit and HFP, its all under warranty.. HFP offers more than just the 1" drop.. u get diff rims and some other stuff too, I think.. neway, im not sure if i'd get the hfp/aero kit/lip kit factory.. u can buy OEM/oem replica stuff online cheap, but then its up to you to get it installed or DIY.
Thanks for the warm welcome all
Last edited by niphilli; Jan 30, 2005 at 01:13 PM.
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No really this place kicks *** and there are alot of super good people that will help you for sure....
Welcome
No really this place kicks *** and there are alot of super good people that will help you for sure....
Welcome
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Originally Posted by ACURAwerx
i dont know waht u mean by lossen dental work, but true coilovers comes with the spring and shocks and they work the best because they were made for each other!
This is a very Common misconception, especially with in the Import crowed.
See, there is no company out there that matches a Specific damper to a specific spring rate. Take Tein for example... You can buy the SS or Flex with an alternate spring rate then what they sell as "Stock", however they don’t change the valving on the damper at all. Why? Simply because that Damper is designed to work within a wide range of spring rates, Not just one specific spring rate. Same thing With Koni... Koni Sports (yellows) are known to work well with spring rates ranging from Stock all the way up to At least 600 Lb/in, I’ve even seen people run OTS Yellows with 1000 LB/In springs with good success. The whole concept of matching a specific shock with a specific spring rate is marketing BS designed to influence you to buy their "Coilover" over piecemealing your suspension together.
Another Common Misconception is the Idea that a "true Coilover" is By default Supirior to a Piecemeal Spring + Shock suspension set up, whe thats just not true. There is no reason a Spring+ Shock setup cant give you just as good if not better ride quality and handling then a "Coilover".
To quote a privous Thread
Originally Posted by Zzyzx
OK... were to start... I've been over this subject so many times..
First off, there is no reason why a spring or a Sleeved spring can't be set up to ride and handle just as good if not better then a "Full coilover". The primary drawback of them are that if you run them on OEM shocks you will eventually comprimise the handling and ride quality of the car. SO, and this should be obvious by now, in order to get the best performance out of any spring, you must tie it in with a damper that can adequately control it.
Secondly, "coilovers" are not by default the best option, they are just the option that takes the least amount of thinking.
Here are some pros and cons of both a Piecmeal suspension (Spring Tied in with a performanc damper) and a "Coilover"
Piecemeal suspension....
Pro: Typicaly cheeper, It allows you to purchace what chould be the best shock for your application (be it Koni, Penske, KYB, Tokico or Moton), and You can pick any spring rate and/or length that best suits your application (as long as the sping fits the collar you are using) also, Companys such as koni will modify their dampers to better suit your wants/needs. (Revalving, up valving, Modification to Double or triple adjsutiblity ect..)
Con: You'll need to do your home work inorder to get the best performance out of the setup (you'll need to understand what you want and what you'll need to get it).
"Full Coilover"
Pro: every thing comes in one neat pacage (Spring + shock), some companys offer alternat spring rates that work with in the intergrated dampers Range, and Some offer options such as intergrated camber plates
Con: You are trusting that the company did their home work when designing that suspension for your car/application e.g., did they design it with street use in mind, or was this a Race only application, as well as did the company even test at all...
So you can see that there are pros and cons to each rout.. But just because the "full coilover" requires less thinking at the end users side doesnt mean its better then a spring + shock combo, Its just more convenient.
and finally.... a "Full Coilover" setup is actually a Rarity in the Race world. Most of the Road racers and Autocrossers I know (That run Production cars, rather then Formula Cars) Run a set of Ground Controls (custom spring rate) With a stock or revalved koni shock. The only place I've seen "Full Coilovers" as being promoted as Better or even as more popular then a spring/shock combo is in the Import world.
First off, there is no reason why a spring or a Sleeved spring can't be set up to ride and handle just as good if not better then a "Full coilover". The primary drawback of them are that if you run them on OEM shocks you will eventually comprimise the handling and ride quality of the car. SO, and this should be obvious by now, in order to get the best performance out of any spring, you must tie it in with a damper that can adequately control it.
Secondly, "coilovers" are not by default the best option, they are just the option that takes the least amount of thinking.
Here are some pros and cons of both a Piecmeal suspension (Spring Tied in with a performanc damper) and a "Coilover"
Piecemeal suspension....
Pro: Typicaly cheeper, It allows you to purchace what chould be the best shock for your application (be it Koni, Penske, KYB, Tokico or Moton), and You can pick any spring rate and/or length that best suits your application (as long as the sping fits the collar you are using) also, Companys such as koni will modify their dampers to better suit your wants/needs. (Revalving, up valving, Modification to Double or triple adjsutiblity ect..)
Con: You'll need to do your home work inorder to get the best performance out of the setup (you'll need to understand what you want and what you'll need to get it).
"Full Coilover"
Pro: every thing comes in one neat pacage (Spring + shock), some companys offer alternat spring rates that work with in the intergrated dampers Range, and Some offer options such as intergrated camber plates
Con: You are trusting that the company did their home work when designing that suspension for your car/application e.g., did they design it with street use in mind, or was this a Race only application, as well as did the company even test at all...
So you can see that there are pros and cons to each rout.. But just because the "full coilover" requires less thinking at the end users side doesnt mean its better then a spring + shock combo, Its just more convenient.
and finally.... a "Full Coilover" setup is actually a Rarity in the Race world. Most of the Road racers and Autocrossers I know (That run Production cars, rather then Formula Cars) Run a set of Ground Controls (custom spring rate) With a stock or revalved koni shock. The only place I've seen "Full Coilovers" as being promoted as Better or even as more popular then a spring/shock combo is in the Import world.
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Originally Posted by zen_master
so.................
ur getting the 06 (8th gen civic), then? or the 05s......?
ur getting the 06 (8th gen civic), then? or the 05s......?
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Rep Power: 0 dude, wait for the 06 to come out! from all the rumors floating around, it should have the i-vtec 2.0 liter dohc engine. it will cost a bit more but you will get good performance. and if its ugly, you can always get a left over 05. if you will get the 05, get a magnesium mettalic coupe on stick. it will be slow but with the hfp lip kit, a nice drop, and some nice 15 or 16 inch gunmetal rims, it will look great! add to that an oem spoiler, h.i.d. kit, tints and you are all set. damn i wish i had the car i just described...
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Originally Posted by Zzyzx
This is a very Common misconception, especially with in the Import crowed.
See, there is no company out there that matches a Specific damper to a specific spring rate. Take Tein for example... You can buy the SS or Flex with an alternate spring rate then what they sell as "Stock", however they don’t change the valving on the damper at all. Why? Simply because that Damper is designed to work within a wide range of spring rates, Not just one specific spring rate. Same thing With Koni... Koni Sports (yellows) are known to work well with spring rates ranging from Stock all the way up to At least 600 Lb/in, I’ve even seen people run OTS Yellows with 1000 LB/In springs with good success. The whole concept of matching a specific shock with a specific spring rate is marketing BS designed to influence you to buy their "Coilover" over piecemealing your suspension together.
Another Common Misconception is the Idea that a "true Coilover" is By default Supirior to a Piecemeal Spring + Shock suspension set up, whe thats just not true. There is no reason a Spring+ Shock setup cant give you just as good if not better ride quality and handling then a "Coilover".
To quote a privous Thread
See, there is no company out there that matches a Specific damper to a specific spring rate. Take Tein for example... You can buy the SS or Flex with an alternate spring rate then what they sell as "Stock", however they don’t change the valving on the damper at all. Why? Simply because that Damper is designed to work within a wide range of spring rates, Not just one specific spring rate. Same thing With Koni... Koni Sports (yellows) are known to work well with spring rates ranging from Stock all the way up to At least 600 Lb/in, I’ve even seen people run OTS Yellows with 1000 LB/In springs with good success. The whole concept of matching a specific shock with a specific spring rate is marketing BS designed to influence you to buy their "Coilover" over piecemealing your suspension together.
Another Common Misconception is the Idea that a "true Coilover" is By default Supirior to a Piecemeal Spring + Shock suspension set up, whe thats just not true. There is no reason a Spring+ Shock setup cant give you just as good if not better ride quality and handling then a "Coilover".
To quote a privous Thread
sorry
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Rep Power: 380 out civics are great for doing suspension mods to. go with coil overs, i love mine, and tehn do a few things like bigger sway bars and some strut tower braces. Sways and braces are fairly sheap, check truehonda they are a seller on here and they give ou tpretty good deals on that stuff. and depending on how you want your ride quality, if you don't mind it a little bouncy go 17's with 205 or 215/40 series tires. the 205 or 215 is just the width the 215's are a little wider. im rocking 205/40/17's and they are great on the handeling. Or if you wnat it a little smother go with 16's on a 50 series tire. And if your looking for a car that you don't want fast then 7th gen is a great pic, seeing as bolt on's don't do much for our cars. But they are indeed very fun to drive and easy to make look cool. But with the 5 speed and a few mods you can easily get into the 15's.
I'm The Ballz Of 7th Gen
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Originally Posted by GuliziaN
Welcome, I recommend getting the Magnesium Metallic (the gun-metal you mentioned) because I see far more Silver Civics.
