slick67

First post trying to help my daughter out. she had the garage do a diagnostic check and they said the primary O2 sensor was bad and it would be $380 plus labor to fix. I told her I could change it no problem, as I try to do as much of my own work as possible. After getting multiple answers from the four different parts chains, I decided I'd look it up myself and it does matter what engine code you have as to what sensor will work. I verified she does have the D17A2 motor and it takes a air/fuel (primary) and a secondary O2 sensor. So went on rock auto and choose the upstream one for D17A2 and the EX. First issue, the primary (Pre-cat) connector is not correct it has a female connector an I need a male. So I tried autozone, the primary they have listed for it doesn't come with the connector you have to cut the original and use it, no biggie matched wires up and got it in, as I did this obviously I had battery disconnected to clear the codes, then back to autozone to clear the codes permanently as it came back on on the way there. So 2 codes came up I had her go get a diagnostic check done at Honda, the codes were P0141 and P0134. After talking with service mgr, he is really pushing her to spend the $900 as he claims you must use genuine Honda Parts for her car 2004 EX with D17A2 motor.
I Ohmed out the heater on secondary and it was OL so it was bad an needs also. I got the secondary one replaced it and still have the same issue, checked the heater circut and it reading is 15ohms so that is good.

I don't know if the previous owner done anything to this. Is there anyone who can point me to the wiring diagram and possibly what voltage i should be getting from each pin? So i can see if the stock wiring is bad or the sensor wiring is not correct.

Any help is appreciated! BTW motor and exhaust is stock
Thanks, Slick67

Wankenstein

He is correct concerning the use of OEM o2 sensors only. Aftermarkets will not function correctly and will throw codes as well. OEM is either Denso or NGK
HondaPartsNow: For Automatic transmission (you didn't specify): http://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-l...er.html?PNC=19 Theyr'e not cheap. Amazon used to sell them (Denso) for half that price.

slick67

Parts cost $637.99 (dealer) and rest is labor funny how it only takes less than 10 minutes to do but they charge 2.5 hours labor? Only in PA! The ones that were in there were Denso and that is what I replaced them with. We bought the car used so who knows. The part numbers from the dealer say it doesn't fit my model car,
These are the part numbers from dealer: 36531-PLM-306 and 36532-PMM-A01

ezone

You need:

36531-PLR-003 Primary (A/F sensor) B1S1
36532-PLR-A11 Secondary (O2 sensor) B1S2

Use the DENSO cross reference chart (google it) to find the DENSO part numbers that match

Wankenstein

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda.../dp/B00KTLI8MW

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda.../dp/B00IFPFH14

slick67

Thanks guys, sure wish I thought to look for this forum before the first $400 spent!

The only thing I see being an issue is the Plug connector for the (pre cat) Primary needs to have male pins (at least that is how the harness is set up).

And i just read the head gasket thread as she has a heating issue, not overheating but no heat until you are moving and defrost gives moisture i=on inside of window so probably heater core also?. Going to do the bubble test tonight. I don't see the overflow increasing but who knows. 177,000 miles

slick67

One last thing If anyone can take a pic of there connectors for a D17A2 motor Just to see if someone hacked this up and that is causing me issues. The primary one on this car needs a male plug on the sensor end at least that is how the original was the secondary has a female plug on the sensor end, i just think this was hacked looks original but shouldn't be this hard to find the correct ones!

ezone

Sensor connectors are supposed to be configured differently so it's impossible to get them connected wrong.
It works very well as long as you are installing the correct sensors.

slick67

Agreed , but by looking at the pictures of the amazon ones they both have female connectors. I just can't spend another $400 to find out it's wrong item or the harness in the car is not original.

About the Heating issue, When I checked the rad it needed half gallon, so I used the jack burp method, ended up being 3/4 gallon needed after all bubbles were gone and up to normal OP temp. The heater works normally, I tried the bubble method to check for HG leak and that came up negative. I haven't figured out why the floor was wet yet, or why the inside window fogged up when defrost turned on as i see no visible leak anywhere, and now the temp gauge is reading normal and when defrost is on no fog buildup, and so far floor is dry. I removed the plastic cover where all the compartment stuff is at and didn't see any signs of leakage at all. Going to monitor it all week to see if any overflow issues present themselves, or any leak develop or if any further coolant is needed. Great reading on this forum!