Another no tach/temp/green key/etc thread. PLEASE HELP
09-16-2014
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Another no tach/temp/green key/etc thread. PLEASE HELP
Hey guys,
I'm pretty pissed seeing as I just typed all of this and went to post and it asked me to login in again, so here it is…… Again.
I know this issue has been discussed MANY times on MANY different sites. I am just looking to compile ideas/answers in my own thread so I don't have to necessarily search through 5,374 sites to find answers.
I bought the car, 2001 EX with MT, about 2.5 weeks ago. My buddy I bought it from said all/some of these problems were occurring when he bought it and he put a new ECU in it and it was fine, until recently.
The car was running fine until last week when the battery light randomly came on while driving. It seemed that NOTHING was affected by it, even shut it off and turned it right back on, no issues.
Yesterday the CEL randomly came on after the car just sat in a buddies driveway, didn't seem to have any issues whatsoever. A while after, I was driving, went over some tracks, and all of a sudden it felt like it gave out, the tach and temp gauge died, and the CEL remained on. The past couple days the problems have been sporadic.
Here are the issues I've noted as of now:
1. Green key light blinking, occasionally.
2. Instantly upon start up, the CEL will blink with each bounce of the rev(not my doing), and the main relay will click. This will occur for between 1-10 seconds and then the RPM will steady out at normal idle, CEL will become solid, and clicking stops.
3. Running VERY rich.
4. Will not go above what seems to be 2-2500 RPM and if you push the pedal further than 1/3 it will, almost, "bounce off the rev limiter" really slow.
5. ECU will not connect to scanner(no battery light and solid CEL)
6. Upon removing the power steering pump, I noticed the top alternator mounting bolt was half way out. I managed to get it back in, but it won't thread. Nothing protruding from the engine block mount, and there is about 1/4" of bolt, excluding head, that is sticking out from driver side.
Things I've done in attempts to correct the issue so far:
1. Got alternator bolt back in as far as possible.
2. Tightened the alternator belt tightener wing nut very tight using 1 1/16" socket.
3. Replaced the Electronic Load Detector in engine bay fuse box.
4. Added a ground from the alternator wing nut to the headlight bolt on the fender wall.
5. Taken out the 15amp ECU fuse from the bay fuse box and also undone and touched both battery terminals together.
Also, it seems to me that the ECU isn't "fried" seeing as sometimes the tach will still work? I'm hoping there is an underlying reason that is causing the ECU to just be hiccuping or freezing rather than be fried to the point of replacement… Maybe I could have that ECU reflashed? Or even attempt? I assume that if it is in fact unflashable, that would tell me that it is actually fried and unusable.
Nothing has worked so far. Please, "experts" and other who have solved this issue, give advice on what route I should take. It seems I will be needing to purchase a new ECU. I'm just hoping the problem can be solved with out having to wait for the UPS man.
Post away - Thanks,
Kyle
I'm pretty pissed seeing as I just typed all of this and went to post and it asked me to login in again, so here it is…… Again.
I know this issue has been discussed MANY times on MANY different sites. I am just looking to compile ideas/answers in my own thread so I don't have to necessarily search through 5,374 sites to find answers.
I bought the car, 2001 EX with MT, about 2.5 weeks ago. My buddy I bought it from said all/some of these problems were occurring when he bought it and he put a new ECU in it and it was fine, until recently.
The car was running fine until last week when the battery light randomly came on while driving. It seemed that NOTHING was affected by it, even shut it off and turned it right back on, no issues.
Yesterday the CEL randomly came on after the car just sat in a buddies driveway, didn't seem to have any issues whatsoever. A while after, I was driving, went over some tracks, and all of a sudden it felt like it gave out, the tach and temp gauge died, and the CEL remained on. The past couple days the problems have been sporadic.
Here are the issues I've noted as of now:
1. Green key light blinking, occasionally.
2. Instantly upon start up, the CEL will blink with each bounce of the rev(not my doing), and the main relay will click. This will occur for between 1-10 seconds and then the RPM will steady out at normal idle, CEL will become solid, and clicking stops.
3. Running VERY rich.
4. Will not go above what seems to be 2-2500 RPM and if you push the pedal further than 1/3 it will, almost, "bounce off the rev limiter" really slow.
5. ECU will not connect to scanner(no battery light and solid CEL)
6. Upon removing the power steering pump, I noticed the top alternator mounting bolt was half way out. I managed to get it back in, but it won't thread. Nothing protruding from the engine block mount, and there is about 1/4" of bolt, excluding head, that is sticking out from driver side.
Things I've done in attempts to correct the issue so far:
1. Got alternator bolt back in as far as possible.
2. Tightened the alternator belt tightener wing nut very tight using 1 1/16" socket.
3. Replaced the Electronic Load Detector in engine bay fuse box.
4. Added a ground from the alternator wing nut to the headlight bolt on the fender wall.
5. Taken out the 15amp ECU fuse from the bay fuse box and also undone and touched both battery terminals together.
Also, it seems to me that the ECU isn't "fried" seeing as sometimes the tach will still work? I'm hoping there is an underlying reason that is causing the ECU to just be hiccuping or freezing rather than be fried to the point of replacement… Maybe I could have that ECU reflashed? Or even attempt? I assume that if it is in fact unflashable, that would tell me that it is actually fried and unusable.
Nothing has worked so far. Please, "experts" and other who have solved this issue, give advice on what route I should take. It seems I will be needing to purchase a new ECU. I'm just hoping the problem can be solved with out having to wait for the UPS man.
Post away - Thanks,
Kyle
09-16-2014
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Another no tach/temp/green key/etc thread. PLEASE HELP
Search this forum for "loose alternator bolts" and spend some time reading.
Here's one to read https://www.civicforums.com/forums/21-i-c-e-electrical/361065-ecm-trouble-please-help.html#post4670315
The loose bolts that secured the alternator are the most common cause of this failure. It's so common there was a service bulletin issued about it:
Here's a copy of Hondas bulletin on loose alternator bolts http://www.underhoodservice.com/issu...ontentid=88560
(I know it says no start, but there can be many different symptoms for this problem.)
They were loose, causing an ungrounded condition for the alternator.
This in turn causes the alternator to 'seek' ground through any available path while it's trying to generate electricity. This path is the wiring between the voltage regulator and the PCM.
The PCM gets damaged by excessive voltage in those wires.
In some cases where the problem is caught early and corrected before damage is permanent, the PCM may live. But once the damage has become permanent, the PCM is ruined it must be replaced.
If one didn't figure out and fix the root cause of the failure, he is doomed to ruin the replacement PCM too. (Sounds like this already happened to yours.)
HTH
Here's one to read https://www.civicforums.com/forums/21-i-c-e-electrical/361065-ecm-trouble-please-help.html#post4670315
The loose bolts that secured the alternator are the most common cause of this failure. It's so common there was a service bulletin issued about it:
Here's a copy of Hondas bulletin on loose alternator bolts http://www.underhoodservice.com/issu...ontentid=88560
(I know it says no start, but there can be many different symptoms for this problem.)
They were loose, causing an ungrounded condition for the alternator.
This in turn causes the alternator to 'seek' ground through any available path while it's trying to generate electricity. This path is the wiring between the voltage regulator and the PCM.
The PCM gets damaged by excessive voltage in those wires.
In some cases where the problem is caught early and corrected before damage is permanent, the PCM may live. But once the damage has become permanent, the PCM is ruined it must be replaced.
If one didn't figure out and fix the root cause of the failure, he is doomed to ruin the replacement PCM too. (Sounds like this already happened to yours.)
HTH
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