Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
01-31-2017
#1
OF top 99.5% creator (Formerly of the Puffinblunts variety)
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Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
Recently purchased 1995 Civic EX coupe with JDM B20B engine.Supposedly around 80k miles.. JDM engine store states between 55k-60k miles guaranteed and seller put 10k on it. Manual transmission. Cluster replaced...car originally an automatic and converted to manual. Seller replaced automatic odometer (no tachometer, auto gear selector) and installed a manual (includes tach) with 85K on odometer.
I searched for a month on Craigslist to hopefully find the right car and just as important the right seller. Encountered all kinds of shadiness, small dealers and crap cars during that month. Finally, found a private seller that is a Honda enthusiast, had at least a two year history with the car and he put the build together himself and seems/seemed to be an honest young man. I told him that my one of my highest concerns is to purchase a car without a headgasket issue. He repeated said there's no signs of head gasket issue and said he would never sell a car with a known head gasket breach. I asked him if there any coolant loss in radiator and gain in reservoir or vice-versa and he said no.
Current issue: small, daily coolant loss in reservoir.
That was three weeks ago and before I purchased it had a leakdown test performed on it by a mechanic. All cylinders were under 12% leakage and dry compression numbers are also solid 220, 220, 208, 218. I asked him before the (engine at operating temp) leakdown if the cap should be removed to look for bubbles and said he keeps the rad cap on but will definitely hear it if it bubbles. He was very close to the radiator during the leakdown test.
I forgot to ask him to use straight shop air (without leakdown tester). So even though the leak percentages are good is it possible there is head gasket breach? We did a block test on it and negative for emissions in coolant. Spark plugs dry at operating temp and haven't pulled them when engine is cold.
*Bubble in radiator seem to be minimal at operating temp and when revved,
*Heater works very well and even when car is idling.
*No white smoke from exhaust.
*Engine seems to idle well on cold start and is not lumpy or erratic. *Minimal, intermittent hunting idle at operating temp.
*No engine overheating .. drove four hours continuously first day of purchase and 3 one hour trips since.
* No visible external leaks
* Do not fell dampness or smell coolant near heater core.
* No loss of coolant in radiator combined with gain in reservoir
* Radiator cap looks/feel to be in good shape
What hasn't been done yet is cold and at operating temp coolant system pressure test. Some suggest to do with spark plugs out and inspect for coolant in cylinders.
The seller seems to be very meticulous and the car is in otherwise very good shape. He purchased a new battery a few days after sale because the prior died soon after purchase. Has kept in contact since sale.
I searched for a month on Craigslist to hopefully find the right car and just as important the right seller. Encountered all kinds of shadiness, small dealers and crap cars during that month. Finally, found a private seller that is a Honda enthusiast, had at least a two year history with the car and he put the build together himself and seems/seemed to be an honest young man. I told him that my one of my highest concerns is to purchase a car without a headgasket issue. He repeated said there's no signs of head gasket issue and said he would never sell a car with a known head gasket breach. I asked him if there any coolant loss in radiator and gain in reservoir or vice-versa and he said no.
Current issue: small, daily coolant loss in reservoir.
That was three weeks ago and before I purchased it had a leakdown test performed on it by a mechanic. All cylinders were under 12% leakage and dry compression numbers are also solid 220, 220, 208, 218. I asked him before the (engine at operating temp) leakdown if the cap should be removed to look for bubbles and said he keeps the rad cap on but will definitely hear it if it bubbles. He was very close to the radiator during the leakdown test.
I forgot to ask him to use straight shop air (without leakdown tester). So even though the leak percentages are good is it possible there is head gasket breach? We did a block test on it and negative for emissions in coolant. Spark plugs dry at operating temp and haven't pulled them when engine is cold.
*Bubble in radiator seem to be minimal at operating temp and when revved,
*Heater works very well and even when car is idling.
*No white smoke from exhaust.
*Engine seems to idle well on cold start and is not lumpy or erratic. *Minimal, intermittent hunting idle at operating temp.
*No engine overheating .. drove four hours continuously first day of purchase and 3 one hour trips since.
* No visible external leaks
* Do not fell dampness or smell coolant near heater core.
* No loss of coolant in radiator combined with gain in reservoir
* Radiator cap looks/feel to be in good shape
What hasn't been done yet is cold and at operating temp coolant system pressure test. Some suggest to do with spark plugs out and inspect for coolant in cylinders.
The seller seems to be very meticulous and the car is in otherwise very good shape. He purchased a new battery a few days after sale because the prior died soon after purchase. Has kept in contact since sale.
Last edited by Wankenstein; 01-31-2017 at 02:40 PM.
01-31-2017
#3
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
Coolant level dropping how rapidly?
Are you checking level at the same engine temperature each time (cold fluid levels)?
If you pressure test cooling system, yes pull spark plugs out so you can tell if a significant amount collects in a cylinder.
Are you checking level at the same engine temperature each time (cold fluid levels)?
If you pressure test cooling system, yes pull spark plugs out so you can tell if a significant amount collects in a cylinder.
01-31-2017
#4
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01-31-2017
#5
OF top 99.5% creator (Formerly of the Puffinblunts variety)
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Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
I usually park it overinght and check both radiator and reservoir levels in the morning before driving it. Sometimes I'll check the reservoir at operating temp after driving a bit and the level raises from cold check.
I just put it up on ramps and will cold pressure test it tomorrow morning. Will pull plugs and check cylinders as you suggest. Is it possible to do a pressure test at operating temp or is that risking to much pressure on the system? Thanks Ezone.
01-31-2017
#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
I would say a 1/2 to 1 cup per day. I usually park it overinght and check both radiator and reservoir levels in the morning before driving it. Sometimes I'll check the reservoir at operating temp after driving a bit and the level raises from cold check.
Good lord are you serious? If it's leaking to the outside of the engine, I'd expect to be able to smell that when it's hot.
YOu got it up in the air, slide under with light and search for green trails and maybe growies from repeated seep/evaporation cycles.
YOu got it up in the air, slide under with light and search for green trails and maybe growies from repeated seep/evaporation cycles.
Returning to the exact same level when cold is the important part.
Is it possible to do a pressure test at operating temp or is that risking to much pressure on the system?
The biggest danger is removing the cap from a screaming hot system.
Hot antifreeze causes 3rd degree burns over 85% of your body and you die.
Film at 11. Next danger is YOU pumping too much pressure as you try to check. Don't exceed 16 PSI.
Next dangerous mistake people make is trying to run the engine while a pressure tester is attached. The tester has no way to relieve pressure so you could explode the weak point of the system as the engine heats up. Hot antifreeze explosion causes 3rd degree burns over 85% of your body and you die.
Film at 11. I would start a pressure test at operating temp.....just because a car is usually hot when it gets driven into the shop. Engine off. Safely remove rad cap.
Pressurize.... Wait a few. Look for leaks. If pressure drops off fast, look and listen for leak. If pressure holds, keep it there.
As the engine cools down the pressure will naturally drop. Pump up the tester periodically until it stays stable or until you verify leakage somewhere. .
The idea is that a slow leak would need to be under pressure for a period of time to produce a findable leak. Could leak hot, could leak cold, This covers both situations (hopefully).
Nothing is foolproof, not all leaks can be found this way....this mainly helps to find the leaks that **** a stream under pressure.
Leave pressure pumped up in the system overnight, then use a strong light to inspect all around the car, over and under, check oil to see if it rose (coolant entering crankcase can make the oil level go up)
Look in throttle body and intake manifold to see if the IAC/gasket is seeping coolant?
Check the piston tops through the open plug holes. Maaaybe if there was seepage into a cylinder you would see it pooled on a piston...but you may not find anything if it's a teeny seep.
Crank it over with the starter and watch for liquid coolant to be blown out of the plug holes.
Basically check everywhere and everything that could possibly carry, contain, be exposed to, and therefore leak coolant.
I'm sure I missed something in this.
02-01-2017
#7
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Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
The engine bay seems to always smell of coolant.
Yes.That much I know.
The seller installed an aftermarket OPL brand two core all aluminum radiator that has a metal slim can reservoir..so I may be overestimating the amount of loss but, it definitely goes down on a daily basis.
Yes. If I ever open a cap at operating temp I always use a rag and open the cap halfway for a few minutes to relieve pressure before removing it fully.
I plan to stay around 15 or 16 pounds and no higher.
Reading about other people doing this prompted my question about hot pressure testing. Thank you for clearing this up and I am glad I asked ahead of time. I have to this point only pressure tested a cold system on other cars.
So, remove cap (safely), hook up pressure tester, if it stays at 16 pounds then do not add pressure, if pressure drops look for leaks.
If pressure holds how long should it take for coolant to appear in cylinders if it an internal leak?
Since the engine will be cold I plan to start that way first. However, if no leaks show while cold I will bring it up to operating temp and test as you instructed.
Okay.
This (including safety steps) is great info concerning finding leaks. I've read on various sites people recommending an overnight pressure test to find internal leaks so your suggestion correlates. Maybe I should purchase a small camera to look inside cylinders.
With all this said it all starts with the seller when trying to avoid a car with a coolant loss issue. Bottom line is he didn't disclose this and when I approached him about it he keeps insisting coolant loss wasn't an issue while he owned it. He knows too much about engines (part time mechanic) to not have gone through the steps that I have and will go through to isolate the problem.
The seller installed an aftermarket OPL brand two core all aluminum radiator that has a metal slim can reservoir..so I may be overestimating the amount of loss but, it definitely goes down on a daily basis.
Next dangerous mistake people make is trying to run the engine while a pressure tester is attached. The tester has no way to relieve pressure so you could explode the weak point of the system as the engine heats up. Hot antifreeze explosion causes 3rd degree burns over 85% of your body and you die. Film at 11.
Film at 11.I would start a pressure test at operating temp.....just because a car is usually hot when it gets driven into the shop. Engine off. Safely remove rad cap. Pressurize.... Wait a few. Look for leaks. If pressure drops off fast, look and listen for leak. If pressure holds, keep it there.
If pressure holds how long should it take for coolant to appear in cylinders if it an internal leak?
As the engine cools down the pressure will naturally drop. Pump up the tester periodically until it stays stable or until you verify leakage somewhere.The idea is that a slow leak would need to be under pressure for a period of time to produce a findable leak. Could leak hot, could leak cold, This covers both situations (hopefully).
Leave pressure pumped up in the system overnight, then use a strong light to inspect all around the car, over and under, check oil to see if it rose (coolant entering crankcase can make the oil level go up)
Look in throttle body and intake manifold to see if the IAC/gasket is seeping coolant?
Check the piston tops through the open plug holes. Maaaybe if there was seepage into a cylinder you would see it pooled on a piston...but you may not find anything if it's a teeny seep.
Crank it over with the starter and watch for liquid coolant to be blown out of the plug holes.Basically check everywhere and everything that could possibly carry, contain, be exposed to, and therefore leak coolant.
I'm sure I missed something in this.
Look in throttle body and intake manifold to see if the IAC/gasket is seeping coolant?
Check the piston tops through the open plug holes. Maaaybe if there was seepage into a cylinder you would see it pooled on a piston...but you may not find anything if it's a teeny seep.
Crank it over with the starter and watch for liquid coolant to be blown out of the plug holes.Basically check everywhere and everything that could possibly carry, contain, be exposed to, and therefore leak coolant.
I'm sure I missed something in this.
With all this said it all starts with the seller when trying to avoid a car with a coolant loss issue. Bottom line is he didn't disclose this and when I approached him about it he keeps insisting coolant loss wasn't an issue while he owned it. He knows too much about engines (part time mechanic) to not have gone through the steps that I have and will go through to isolate the problem.
02-01-2017
#8
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
So, remove cap (safely), hook up pressure tester, if it stays at 16 pounds then do not add pressure, if pressure drops look for leaks.
If pressure holds how long should it take for coolant to appear in cylinders if it an internal leak?
If pressure holds how long should it take for coolant to appear in cylinders if it an internal leak?
How long is an unknown. It all depends on the size of a leak, if there is a leak.
However, if no leaks show while cold I will bring it up to operating temp
Maybe I should purchase a small camera to look inside cylinders.
With all this said it all starts with the seller when trying to avoid a car with a coolant loss issue. Bottom line is he didn't disclose this and when I approached him about it he keeps insisting coolant loss wasn't an issue while he owned it. He knows too much about engines (part time mechanic) to not have gone through the steps that I have and will go through to isolate the problem.
He was the car seller. He is not the owner of the car, you are. You now own all the problems that came with it.
02-01-2017
#9
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Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
Not relevant, and just because someone can do the nuts and bolts of replacing parts doesn't necessarily mean they notice and can diagnose problems. There are an awful lot of 'professional' mechanics who get by on guessing and replacing parts too. He was the car seller. He is not the owner of the car, you are. You now own all the problems that came with it.
I guess that's true but, highly unlikely coolant loss wasn't known before selling. Sold "as is" doesn't prevent unscrupulous sellers from being successfully sued in small claims court. Not the route I am going but, can and does happen. My strongest hope is that it's just an external leak issue because I really like the car otherwise. I like the seller too but due to life's hard knocks I only trust my family and close friends. I also trust auto mechanic advice from you. However, yes..the problem, if there is one, is mine now.
I did a cold pressure test this morning and although it wouldn't hold pressure (slowly leaking from adapter) I did find a loose corkscrew clamp at the thermostat housing location that was leaking quite a bit. Also found small leaks on two of the TB body coolant hoses. Purchased these clamps:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-3-8-automotive-fuel-injection-hose-clamp-4-pack-ac52f16v/89016086-p?iv_=__iv_p_1_a_214327102_g_12425515822_w_pla-61865531738_h_9012284_ii__d_c_v__n_g_x_pla_y_62016 84_f_online_o_89016086-P_z_US_i_en_j_61865531738_s__vi__&utm_source=ACQ&u tm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&utm_content=shoppin gcampaigns&gclid=CJS7yp3g79ECFY6PswodrnIE9A
because stock spring clamps were very loose and causing leak. Couldn't find small enough corskscrew style clamp but, I am concerned about heat expansion and pressure on this style clamp..so may be very temporary. Couldn't find any other leak. Kept pumping up pressure every 5 minutes to 16 pounds. Waited about an hour, inspected cylinders and spark plugs. No sign of coolant on/in either. Cranked engine with plugs out, gas pedal to floor and nothing came out of them.
Removed pressure tester and started engine while front end well raised on jackstands. Took a look at the tail pipe and noticed small amount of white smoke combined with water dripping from exhaust. White smoke seemed to stop or greatly reduce a few minutes after reaching operating temp. Is this normal or sign of coolant in cylinders?
I let engine run from cold to op temp with radiator cap off to bleed coolant and look for abnormal bubbles and noticed the bubbles were less frequent and smaller than before. There was barely any bubbling at all even when revved. Is this due to plugging the external leaks described above?
I cut the engine off and put the pressure tester back on the radiator about 10 minutes after reaching op-temp (rad cap still off). I expected the gauge to reach 16 pounds without adding any extra pressure but, it stayed at zero. Afraid to add further pressure with pump so I just pur the rad cap back on, ran engine and checked for leaks..none found.
I will monitor for coolant loss daily and update. Any/all suggestions appreciated.
Last edited by Wankenstein; 02-01-2017 at 03:23 PM.
02-01-2017
#10
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
I did find a loose corkscrew clamp at the thermostat housing location that was leaking quite a bit. Also found small leaks on two of the TB body coolant hoses.
Purchased these clamps:
because stock spring clamps were very loose and causing leak.
Spring clamps stay tight and leak free for many years, they spring to conform with hose expansion and contraction as the temperature changes.
Regular clamps can't do that, they usually need tightened so much the hose looks damaged, then still need periodic retightening as they begin seeping.
Couldn't find small enough corskscrew style clamp but, I am concerned about heat expansion and pressure on this style clamp..so may be very temporary.
Is this normal or sign of coolant in cylinders?
(Chemistry 101.)
The exhaust will emit visible steam (water vapor) until the exhaust system has become hot enough to vaporize it within the pipes.
Now if the steam hangs in the air long after it should have dissipated and it smells sickeningly sweet, that's antifreeze. It might fog out a city block before it dissipates.
Is this due to plugging the external leaks described above?
and put the pressure tester back on the radiator about 10 minutes after reaching op-temp (rad cap still off). I expected the gauge to reach 16 pounds without adding any extra pressure but, it stayed at zero.
02-01-2017
#11
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Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
Thanks Ezone.
Yes and I hope it stops the coolant loss.
I do too. Not sure why the seller used a corkscrew type... most likely due to (as you eluded to) aftermarket silicone hoses/different size.
Good to know. It doesn't have a sweet smell to it however, I may not be sensitive to that type of smell or not enough experience to differentiate.
Okay. I will try it again while at operating temp tomorrow.
Next repair is replacing both rear hub assemblies. Watched videos and it looks fairly easy unless the inner race doesn't pull off with hub. What's the best way to remove the inner race? I rented a 7 ton, 7", three jaw puller but, not sure if that's a good tool for it.
Yes and I hope it stops the coolant loss.
I do too. Not sure why the seller used a corkscrew type... most likely due to (as you eluded to) aftermarket silicone hoses/different size.
Normal. Water is a by-product of combustion. Burning a hydrocarbon creates water and carbon dioxide (Chemistry 101.) The exhaust will emit visible steam (water vapor) until the exhaust system has become hot enough to vaporize it within the pipes. Now if the steam hangs in the air long after it should have dissipated and it smells sickeningly sweet, that's antifreeze. It might fog out a city block before it dissipates.
Okay. I will try it again while at operating temp tomorrow.
Next repair is replacing both rear hub assemblies. Watched videos and it looks fairly easy unless the inner race doesn't pull off with hub. What's the best way to remove the inner race? I rented a 7 ton, 7", three jaw puller but, not sure if that's a good tool for it.
02-01-2017
#12
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
EPDM rubber is so damn good....
Good to know. It doesn't have a sweet smell to it however, I may not be sensitive to that type of smell or not enough experience to differentiate.
What's the best way to remove the inner race?
If it's really stuck I would use a cutoff wheel to grind a slot diagonally then whack it with a chisel to make it crack....Once it's cracked it slides right off.
Watch this guy use a dremel with a cutoff disc: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2UMq7rtUko
(Video embedding has been broken for a week or so....)
Watch the older guy in the doorway starting around 2 min... by 2.30 he's looking around and finally asks "who the hell are you talking to?" LMAO
02-01-2017
#13
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Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
the race is hardened steel, use that to your advantage! (meaning if you heat it up you'll never be able to crack it) If it's really stuck I would use a cutoff wheel to grind a slot diagonally then whack it with a chisel to make it crack....Once it's cracked it slides right off.
Watch the older guy in the doorway starting around 2 min... by 2.30 he's looking around and finally asks "who the hell are you talking to?" LMAO
Watch the older guy in the doorway starting around 2 min... by 2.30 he's looking around and finally asks "who the hell are you talking to?" LMAO
I don't have a dremel but, may be able to use my brother's.
I purchased SKF brand hubs ($65 each) ..I may go with option 2 and have mechanic replace: $115 labor for both sides. However, that money could go towards a dremel. Would an electric dremel cut it (pun intended)?
I have a small pancake compressor that may work well enough for an air powered dremel.
Last edited by Wankenstein; 02-01-2017 at 10:33 PM.
02-01-2017
#14
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
Yeah, sickeningly sweet.....of course it depends on the coolant sweetness. Some are embittered so they don't taste so good.
And if the hubs slide right off then you don't need more tools at all.
I think the one in the video was electric. (I have one old Dremel with the flexible cable drive real similar to the one shown.)
However, that money could go towards a dremel.
Would an electric dremel cut it (pun intended)?
02-02-2017
#15
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Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
Not really into B&D products but, is reasonably priced for 2.0 amps.
I didn't pressure test at op-temp yet (too tired after night shift). The coolant level in reservoir didn't seem to drop when I checked it after I slept about 6 hours. I will keep monitoring it and will pressure check it again tomorrow.
Last edited by Wankenstein; 02-02-2017 at 06:13 PM.
02-02-2017
#16
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
Meh, if you fixed the obvious leakage points, just drive it and monitor levels for a while.
If coolant keeps disappearing, then you have something to go on.
If coolant keeps disappearing, then you have something to go on.
02-02-2017
#17
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Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
He's a young, independent mechanic and has a small shop with a lift. Will pay him a bit extra to take a look for coolant leaks. I still smell coolant after driving to work tonight but that could be burn off from the coolant spilled yesterday.
The silicone hose are made by TT Racing (Ebay) and I found some related info: http://www.tundraheadquarters.com/bl...-pros-and-con/ Looks like they do need inner ring clamps to avoid cutting hose. So, I either need new clamps or new hoses.
Last edited by Wankenstein; 02-02-2017 at 10:47 PM.
02-05-2017
#18
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Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
Coolant level is holding steady for past few days.
Installed a fuel filler neck (easy) and left side rear hub assembly.
I used two hammers (claw side) at 9 and 3 position to remove stuck hub and that worked well. The inner race was stuck on axle and I used the rotary tool to remove it. I tried to be careful but, due to bell shaped inner race I ended up cutting a slot through the dust cover behind it and nicking the thicker metal piece that is directly behind the hub. The nicks are not deep at all but, did cause some burring. Will this be an issue?
I cut a diagnal slot as you suggested and used a chisel.. cut chisel, cut chisel. I had to cut almost to the axel and I ended up cutting two slots 180 degrees from each other and then the chisel finished the job.
When I do the other side I plan to do to cuts opposite of each other and avoid getting close the dust shield and the part I nicked up.
The left rear hub that I replaced sounds like it was the offending, moaning hub and now is much quiter and seems to coast better too. I plan to replace right side rear hub soon..already have the part.
Installed a fuel filler neck (easy) and left side rear hub assembly.
I used two hammers (claw side) at 9 and 3 position to remove stuck hub and that worked well. The inner race was stuck on axle and I used the rotary tool to remove it. I tried to be careful but, due to bell shaped inner race I ended up cutting a slot through the dust cover behind it and nicking the thicker metal piece that is directly behind the hub. The nicks are not deep at all but, did cause some burring. Will this be an issue?
I cut a diagnal slot as you suggested and used a chisel.. cut chisel, cut chisel. I had to cut almost to the axel and I ended up cutting two slots 180 degrees from each other and then the chisel finished the job.
When I do the other side I plan to do to cuts opposite of each other and avoid getting close the dust shield and the part I nicked up.
The left rear hub that I replaced sounds like it was the offending, moaning hub and now is much quiter and seems to coast better too. I plan to replace right side rear hub soon..already have the part.
02-05-2017
#19
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Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
What where you thinking??? Find an 65+ (70 even better) senior citizen living in a non flood, hurricane, tornado alley, winter salt, civil war, didn't carry it to Jiffy L ecc..area with a 2-3 year old Civic they purchased new. Buy that one next time.
02-05-2017
#20
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Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
What's even more sad that this car is much better shape than half the turd-mobiles I checked out at the same price. I probably paid $500 too much considering the a/c issue but, if in three years it's driving around with minimal issues I may have got my money's worth. Plus, it's much more fun to drive than stock D-series. Torque(y) little **** this one is.
I will post some pics in my garage soon. Some turds (unlike me) can be polished.
02-05-2017
#21
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
It's over, you fixed the head gasket problem LOL
Got pics? Guessing it wouldn't be a problem as long as the new race seats fully in place.
The cut(s) are only intended to remove material from the race so it can be cracked, there needs to be a thin area through a significant portion of the hardened steel in order to crack it easily.
The thickest part of the race is the hardest to cut through, that's why I make a diagonal cut.
If you only try to make a slice parallel with the axle stub (spindle), you'll grind through a piece of the shoulder that the race is pushed up against.
The direction cut can be any which way necessary to reach the goal. I might make a big L shape with 2 cuts, I might make a single cut, I might make a Z or W with several cuts. It all depends on the situation at the time, how much room I have to work the cutting wheel in.
The cutoff wheel is much larger than a dremel wheel.
I often go all the way through the race (not intentional but it's hard to judge depth while sparks are flying), but as long as the cut isn't insane deep into the underlying shaft it's not hurting anything IMO.
I ended up cutting a slot through the dust cover behind it and nicking the thicker metal piece that is directly behind the hub. The nicks are not deep at all but, did cause some burring. Will this be an issue?
I cut a diagnal slot as you suggested and used a chisel.. cut chisel, cut chisel. I had to cut almost to the axel and I ended up cutting two slots 180 degrees from each other and then the chisel finished the job.
When I do the other side I plan to do to cuts opposite of each other and avoid getting close the dust shield and the part I nicked up.
When I do the other side I plan to do to cuts opposite of each other and avoid getting close the dust shield and the part I nicked up.
The thickest part of the race is the hardest to cut through, that's why I make a diagonal cut.
If you only try to make a slice parallel with the axle stub (spindle), you'll grind through a piece of the shoulder that the race is pushed up against.
The direction cut can be any which way necessary to reach the goal. I might make a big L shape with 2 cuts, I might make a single cut, I might make a Z or W with several cuts. It all depends on the situation at the time, how much room I have to work the cutting wheel in.
The cutoff wheel is much larger than a dremel wheel.
I often go all the way through the race (not intentional but it's hard to judge depth while sparks are flying), but as long as the cut isn't insane deep into the underlying shaft it's not hurting anything IMO.
02-05-2017
#22
OF top 99.5% creator (Formerly of the Puffinblunts variety)
Thread Starter
Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
I was goint to take pics but, too lazy and dirty to do so. I greased the inner gub and axle a bit with Napa Syl-Gilde sythetic grease and slid the axle by hand as far as it would go. I figured the axle nut would push back as needed from there. I spun the tire afterwards by hand and heard minor rotational scraping but, chalked it up to brake pads hitting drum. No metallic sound.
Speaking of the drum it is cracked and a piece broken off on the backside inner ring... nearest the large dust cover the caliper and brake components are mounted to. Doesn't seem like it would effect function at all though.
Last edited by Wankenstein; 02-05-2017 at 12:03 PM.
02-05-2017
#23
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
02-05-2017
#24
OF top 99.5% creator (Formerly of the Puffinblunts variety)
Thread Starter
Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
Correct... it's the cover's lip/backside. No friction.
Generic pic attached:
Last edited by Wankenstein; 02-05-2017 at 12:28 PM.
02-05-2017
#25
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
I doubt the missing piece would cause a problem by itself...
BUT it shows the drum has enough rust and age to be structurally compromised....and that could become a problem if it cracks in a more important area later on.
BUT it shows the drum has enough rust and age to be structurally compromised....and that could become a problem if it cracks in a more important area later on.
02-05-2017
#26
OF top 99.5% creator (Formerly of the Puffinblunts variety)
Thread Starter
Re: Another Possible Headgasket Breach Post
I updated my last post and included generic pic and description. I will pull one next time I'm at salvage yard.
