98 LX: Fuel leak after fuel filter change
04-24-2013
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98 LX: Fuel leak after fuel filter change
Hey all,
I've got a 98 LX with around 140k on it. Yesterday, I changed the fuel filter and also used the included pair of new copper washers for the upper hose and even torqued the banjo bolt to spec. The problem now is it has started to leak around the copper washer area. Seems like one of those leaks that will continue no matter how tight I make the banjo bolt.
Does anyone know what the fix is? I'm not sure if the previous owner has even changed the fuel filter before but I noticed that the old washers were bigger in diameter and seemed to be in good shape. Should I reuse it? Or is there a better washer to use altogether?
Thanks,
Brandon
I've got a 98 LX with around 140k on it. Yesterday, I changed the fuel filter and also used the included pair of new copper washers for the upper hose and even torqued the banjo bolt to spec. The problem now is it has started to leak around the copper washer area. Seems like one of those leaks that will continue no matter how tight I make the banjo bolt.
Does anyone know what the fix is? I'm not sure if the previous owner has even changed the fuel filter before but I noticed that the old washers were bigger in diameter and seemed to be in good shape. Should I reuse it? Or is there a better washer to use altogether?
Thanks,
Brandon
04-24-2013
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Well I just went ahead and reinstalled the old bigger/thicker aluminum washer for the top....hopefully that does the trick.
04-24-2013
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Re: 98 LX: Fuel leak after fuel filter change
Make sure all sides of the 2 washers are clean, and the surfaces of the banjo bolt and the seal surface on the filter.
I tighten until I can feel the washers squashing. Sometimes you just can't feel this if the washers are not soft metal.
What are the old washers made of?
If there are soft aluminum washers available (similar to our aluminum oil and trans drainplug washers), I'd probably prefer to use those.
If they are soft enough, they can "squish" and seal at a lower torque than many of the copper washers.
I tighten until I can feel the washers squashing. Sometimes you just can't feel this if the washers are not soft metal.
What are the old washers made of?
If there are soft aluminum washers available (similar to our aluminum oil and trans drainplug washers), I'd probably prefer to use those.
If they are soft enough, they can "squish" and seal at a lower torque than many of the copper washers.
04-24-2013
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The old washers were aluminum on the top and copper at the bottom. The new ones that came with the Purolator filter I bought were both copper. I just used the new bottom one and reused the old aluminum upper washer.
I made sure they were clean, but all the washers were not the crush type. They seemed like simple flat washers. The bottom (which was the more annoying to reach of the two) seems to be fine and isn't leaking at all.
I probably won't be using the same filter again in the future cause the nut welded to the top of the filter does not have enough thickness between the can and the hose bracket to fit a wrench over when holding the filter to tighten the banjo bolt. Just made the job a bit more annoying.
I made sure they were clean, but all the washers were not the crush type. They seemed like simple flat washers. The bottom (which was the more annoying to reach of the two) seems to be fine and isn't leaking at all.
I probably won't be using the same filter again in the future cause the nut welded to the top of the filter does not have enough thickness between the can and the hose bracket to fit a wrench over when holding the filter to tighten the banjo bolt. Just made the job a bit more annoying.
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