The install of the S2000 button is straight forward and simple. Search for info on that if you have one.
If not you will want to get a normal switch and a nice relay. All parts needed are listed below.
Materials Needed:
- Starter Switch from Honda S2000 OR any Momentary On pushbutton switch
- If not S2000 button you need a SPDT 30A relay (or 40,50,60A, etc) (relay harness helps)
- Drill
- Drill bits to cut holes or dremel with sanding drum
- Spare wires (some 10 or 12 gauge, and some like 16 or 18 gauge)
- Soldering Iron and solder
- Wire cutter/stripper
- Heatshrink & lighter
- 470 resistor for lighted switchs
- Crimp on Female connectors ( link )
- Electrical Tape
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Switch available here for $19.50 Relay available here for $2.95 Relay harness available here for $2.95
using the above Relay Harness, since the one terminal is not used, you can remove the middle (red) wire from the harness.
Total cost for materials assuming you have all tools: $35
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Procedure:
Step 1: Design the circuit
Here are the schematics for a lighted switch and relay, and non-lighted switch and relay
Lighted Switch:
Non-Lighted Switch:
Step 2: Build circuit I
Label the wires on relay harness for ground, signal from switch, +12V, and Starter
Use the above diagram and the information below to see which wires are to what.
Relay Information Step 3: Build circuit II
First thing to do is solder wire extensions onto the existing relay harness. Add about 2 feet if you have the spare wire, to ensure that there will be enough later.
For the wires from the switch and to ground (the wires for the coil) use the higher gauge wire (skinnier wire).
For the other 2 wires that will be used to power the starter use 10 or 12 gauge wire.
Heatshrink over all solders to make sure they are secure and safe from exposing metal.
Step 4: Mount switch
Wherever you decide to mount the switch, whether it be in a completly custom location in the dash, or a spare panel like I did, you must prepare the spot where you will install the switch.
Use a small drill bit at the center of where you would like the switch to make a small hole.
From there use the hole cutting bits to get a nice circle. Always cut a tiny bit smaller than the switch can fit it.
Sand the hole with the dremel and sanding drum until the switch fits in snugly without getting stuck.
Step 5: Prepare Car
Remove the screws underneath the steering wheel column. They are on the bottom of the plastic cover that is right behind the wheel. Once you have the screws out, the top and bottom cover pieces snap apart and will come off. Just give it a little muscle and it will come off easily.
Also remove the lower dash panel by turning the two knobs and pulling it off.
The last place you need to get to is wherever you are installing the switch. If you install it where I did, you should already have that panel out and the switch in place.
Step 6: Build circuit III
Lighted switch only: Solder the resistor in line with the wire going to the LED from the +12V source, or coming off the - side of the LED.
This is a cross-section diagram of how the resistor should be soldered into place.
Also you should heatshrink over the resistor in the wire. I also recommend taping this until the tape is very thick to prevent the resistor leads from breaking off.
Continue soldering and heatshrinking all the ends of the wires that connect to the switch.
Now the switch is mounted into the little panel and is connected to the relay. Step 7: Install I
Start by attaching all of the wires to the switch from the previous step. I recommend putting heatshrink on the wires just large enough to fit over the connectors, attaching the connectors to the switch, and heatshrinking over each connector. This way if the tabs get bent in the car, the switch will not short out and break or try to start the car on its own.
Install switch into place.
check connections.
Step 8: Install II Remove ground wire from battery.
Once you have the switch in place, you will want to get power and ground to the switch. I used power and ground from existing wires taken off the cigarette lighter plug. You may use these wires, or you may want to ground to the metal near the switch and take power from the 'accessory' wire in the harness we will work with later.
After soldering and taping these 2 wires, attach ground cable back to the battery. Turn the car to 'on' and hit the switch. Make sure the switch activates the relay. If not check all connections.
Disconnect ground from battery once again.
Step 9: Install III
Now is the tricky part. You must attain +12V and Starter connections to the relay. To do this start by looking for the White wire, and the Black wire with a white stripe, behind the steering wheel. They will both be coming from a brown plug. The white wire and black/white wire are both thick wires.
Once you see which wires they are, you must remove the shielding from them in one spot. DO NOT CUT THE WIRES! Just take a knife and slowly remove the shielding until you have about 1/2" of the wire exposed. When both wires are ready, solder the corresponding wires from the realy (doesn't really matter which is which) to the white and white/black wires.
As you can see in the picture, I used a lot of extra wire which was cut off after the soldering was finished. Remember it's always better to have too much than not enough!
Make sure you solder them on extremly well, and make sure you tape them as much as possible! This is crucial. You will have about 30 or 40 amps running through these solder points and you DO NOT want this to come apart!
Step 10: Test
Re-attach the ground wire to the battery. Turn the key to 'on'. Push and hold the button till it starts.
If it is not cranking over, then you have some wires messed up. Check all connections and refer to diagrams above.
Step 11: Clean up
Re-attach all interior panels.
Vaccuum Interior.
Store all tools and items used/left over.
Enjoy!
As with all my DIYs, feel free to Private Message me ANY time to talk about this, ask for help, or just talk about nothing. I am on here at least every day so drop me a PM any time.
welcome. You going to do it?
