Civicnoobie

How many miles is the honda oil filters good for? I had a friend tell me it can last 2 oil changes is that true? And is a special tool needed to get it on and off cause the honda filter is quite a bit smaller than aftermarket ones.

The current filter and oil (Mobil 1 5W30 syn) is 6 months old, 6500km on it (4349 miles).

Do you think i could still go bit longer on this filter with 4349miles on it?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

i go 10k/1year on my filter (its a wix not honda) and switch it every oil change. if your engine is in good shape the filter doesnt matter much.

MindBomber

I use OEM Honda s2k and change it every second oil change, approximately once every 4-6 months.

Civicnoobie

10,000m or km? You do that on one filter? But im sure the Wix one is better than OEM no?

How many KMs you doing in that 4-6 months?

Dumb question but is there a way to replace the filter without draining the oil out?

Reason i ask all this is because last night i was planning on doing an oil change I had 4.4L of Mobil 1 and OEM Filter. I couldnt take the damn filter off no matter what i tried (hence why i ask if a special tool is required for this from Honda). The oil filter tool i have was too big, even tried wrapping a towel along the inner edge to tighten the gap. I spent 20mins and tried different things, couldnt get the filter off. So stupid me having drained my current oil already, all the dealers were closed by now so i had to put the new oil in for the time being. I had no choice but to just fill on my old filter.

So my new oil is in with the old filter and i still have my new OEM filter with me on hand. Im wondering if i should drain this new oil again (i know itll be a waste as i just bought it yesterday, $50 for 4.4L!!!!) and go buy another 4.4L jug. This stuff has gone up in price at walmart!

MelJ

I change my filter with every oil change, so every 6,000 miles. Give or take a more or less miles. If the filter is stuck, you can try gloves with grip....or my favorite method. Sandpaper. I honestly think the filter is in a horrible spot to begin with. I also have some cheesy attachment which hooks up to a 3/8" ratchet to help pop em off. Didn't work so well on my filter though.

Civicnoobie

So you think i should drain the new oil i just put in last night? or wait?

I figure since i only have 4349 miles on the current filter that i should maybe just leave it for a month then change the oil and filter altogether?

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

When I used Honda OEM filters, I changed them every oil change, since I had a military ration of them at home (bought em at like $3 a piece)
But now that I know they're the same shitty quality as Fram, I'm opting out of them.

I used to change every 5k on mobil1,
Now, I'm gonna do a Royal purple filter + Royal purple oil combo
It'll last me at least 10k

So instead of $30 an oil change, I'll be paying like $50, but it's worth 2 oil changes...
So in the end I'll still be paying less for better quality

Btw, a filter socket works wonders for taking off the filter

pjb3

I would not change oil again after only one day. The oil capacity of the filter for a Honda is not that large so I would just change the filter and top off the oil.

I have had good luck using the metal caps that fit on the end of the oil filter and are turned with a ratchet. The key is to get the correct size, one that is a tight fit, not one that kind of fits but is a little loose. I take the new filter I am buying and use that to get the right size.

I don't have a problem with going 10k miles on an oil filter. One word of warning is you do have to know your engine. Synthetic oil will slowly clean an engine and the debris will end up in the oil filter. If i bought a car with 90 to 100k miles and had no idea how often the oil was changed, I would do the first change at 5k and cut open the filter to see what's in it. If it looked good I would then go to 10k intervals.

Civicnoobie

Oh I thought OEM Honda filters are suppose to be good? Theyre as bad as Fram?

So you can replace the filter without draining the oil? didnt know that. If this is true, itd be great...save me $ from buying another jug. When you pop the filter out how much oil do you think needs to be replaced? Cause ill have to go buy another L jug.

pjb3

Just a guess but I would think an oil filter for a Civic holds about 8oz of oil.

MindBomber

OEM Honda filters were at one point superior to just about anything else available, the only real exceptions were high end Mugen filters that are extremely expensive. At that point a company call toyo roki based in Japan manufactured them for Honda. A few years ago however Honda began contracting honeywell fram to manufacture their oil filters, with the exception of the s2000 filters which were still made by toyo roki for some time after, but eventually honeywell fram eventually started making them as well. The filters I use are toyo roki s200 filters, i bought as many as I could when they were discontinued and have a couple cases left. When i eventually run out, I'll likely switch to royal purple or mugen.

Also, $50 for mobil 1 is a rip off. I buy a case of 12 quarts of royal purple at the parts store for $90 and that lasts 3 oil changes.

Civicnoobie

Oh, so you think i should throw this new OEM filter out and pick up one at napa? So the honda filters are basically fram brand? Well that just sucks. If thats the case i wont use them again.

Called Napa and they only sell Wix brand. Im guessing its probably better than OEM?

For the Mobil 1 - its always been $45+ for a 4.4L jug but lately its gone up. Its $50 everywhere now. For some reason up here in canada, Mobil 1 has always been one of the most expensive oils. I would go Royal Purple but i was told once you go with one brand, its not good idea to switch to another.

They said something like the additives is specific in each brand oil. Switching it is bad cause the engine has to get used to it each time and a different formula.

Nto sure if true or not.

Well either way too late its in my car already, when i get home ill pick up a filter from napa and throw the OEM one out and put the new filter on tommorow.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

I dont think you can change out the filter alone without losing at least a quart of oil.

Wix is a nice brand, But I think I'm gonna just bust a nut and buy royal purple, seeing the cut open review on youtube makes it seem really worth it.

Mobil1 here is $23 at walmart for a 5qt container.
So I spend approx $25~$30 per oil change atm.
But thats per 5,000 miles thats around $60 per 10,000 miles

So if I spend $32 for 4qts of Royal Purple + like $15 for the Royal Purple Filter
I'm still only out ~$50, but for 10,000 miles

I'm thinking its completely worth it.

Civicnoobie

im gonna pick up a Wix one tonight from Napa and throw out the OEM one.

WHen I take the filter off, will oil be squirting out all over the place like a fountain? Do i need to have a towel ready to close the hole until i get the new filter on?

pjb3

If the engine is off oil will not squirt out since it is not under pressure. How much oil will you lose? I would guess about 10 oz, maybe 8 in the filter and maybe 2 in the passage leading to the filter. The same as any other time you remove the filter.

As far as the oil filter goes, I'm not sure I would throw out the OEM. Just because a filter is made by a certain company does not mean it is the same as another filter made by the same company. Honda may use the same manufacturer as Fram but the specs may be different. I have never used a Honda filter or opened one up so I don't know what they are like, my guess is I can but a better filter for the same price.

I buy either Wix or Purolater PureOne filters, both are highly rated at a resonable price. I have also used K&N, Mobil1 and Bosch when they are included as part of an oil promotion.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

You would think that, but look at the cutout videos on youtube, they are the same exact paper and cardboard filter they use in the Fram
They look exactly the same on the inside, the only different is the casing

Civicnoobie

i picked up a couple Napa Gold ones at Napa yesterday. Theyre made by Wix, just like their air filters. Gonna install it this afternoon.

THrew out the OEM one, looked at it and ya it said "Honeywell" on it. Disgusts me that ive been using this for the past year. Never buying OEM again, thanks for the heads up, cause i never would have known and would have kept using it.

MindBomber

OEM filters aren't that bad, I know lots of people who still use them. They're not as good as when toyo roki made them, but they aren't the same cheap design as fram filters just because honeywell fram makes them now.

Balzdpr

Mindbomber,
Wht is your opinion on the purolator filters you can get a auto stores? I heard conflicting information about them but nothing in here yet either way. Whats up with them they garbage or middle road or high quality?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

purolator pureone is about as good as the top rated filters. the regular purolator is garbage

marccayen

I use the K&N performance gold filters and I change them with each oil change which is about every 6000 KM on Royal Purple oil. I rather not cheap out on such small things like that which can have a pretty good impact on the engine life of my car. Whats a extra 10-15 bucks every 3-5 months.

Civicnoobie

Well i got the OEM fiter off, it was on way too tight, had to use my hand after it cooled. I BARELY got it off and it took a helluva lot of elbow grease to do it. Is there a reason to have oil filters on that tight? Cause as they get hot, it gets even tighter i was told.

Put the Wix one on and screwed it on by hand. Didnt put it too tight. How tight you guys normally set yours to?

Shift-E

You put it on hand tight, over time it will tighten. Thats why you need the tool to remove them because otherwise it would be ridiculously hard

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

I always learned to do it hand tight
Not like the incredible hulk, but a decent amount where its not loose.

As I said above, the filter wrench/socket thingy works wonders, dunno if the other filters have the hex type grip on them like the OEM, but if they do...
it's about $3 a wrench, and it fits on your 1/2" socket

EASY AS PIE when taking out the filter

MelJ

I remember one day I somehow went OD on putting my oil filter on. It took me ages to get that sucker out. I think I ate my Wheaties that day. Anyway, if you can get your hands on a good quality wrench, do it like Kenny said. It makes a world of difference.

Civicnoobie

Well the dumbass who changed my oil last wintrr put the filter on way too tight. Almost like he used the tool to tighten it.

I got a question, when checking our oil, when we shut the car off doesnt the oil all drop from the pan? If this is the case then wouldnt it be best to check it with the car still running but in park?

MelJ

No. The car needs to be off and on a level surface to get an accurate reading. If it's running, the oil is being using to lubricate parts, cool parts, and basically every other function the does, so its being used. Others will disagree with me on this next part, but I always check my oil the next morning before I even start doing any driving, as it has all settled back into the pan.

marccayen

One reason why the oil filter is on so tight is maybe who ever put your last filter on didn't lube the threads with oil. This normally helps a bit when you have to remove your old filter. Also dont forget to fill your new filter almost half way with new oil before putting in on.

Civicnoobie

Oh you check yours when its cold? I thought the oil has to be hot no? Im guessing most people check after they shut it off and wait 5mins?

MindBomber

I never put my filter on more than hand tight, but it's always extremely tight when I try to remove it; it's not tight because I'm a dumb ***, it's a result of the constant expansion and contraction of the threads.

You want your engine to be either cold or to have been sitting for several minutes not running when you check the oil, because otherwise there will be oil continuing to circulate throughout the engine and you'll be unable to get an accurate reading on exactly how much oil is in the pan. Regardless of whether you check the oil on a completely cold or warm engine, be consistent about how you do it. If you check your oil cold, always do that, if you give you engine five minutes to cool down before checking it, always do that. Inconsistent procedures will net inconsistent results, which are no help in monitoring engine health.

It's important to note, when your first beginning to do your own maintenance the number one concern should not be the car itself; engines are replaceable. Pay more attention to the way you chalk the wheels of the car, jacking points and the way the car is being supported while your partially underneath it; if your car slips off a jack stand and crushes your chest, your thoracic cavity will be more difficult to replace than an engine.