Thermal Flasher
05-07-2012
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Thermal Flasher
Where is the Thermal Flasher fuse/relay located on a 2009 (8th generation) Honda Civic EX sedan? I want to fix my LED problem with the hyperflashing but I don't want to use a load resistor I rather change the thermal flasher for an electronic flasher.
05-07-2012
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05-07-2012
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Re: Thermal Flasher
goto the auto store (pepboys or maybe autozone) and ask if they have a tridon LED flasher for trailering. these types use a copper coil and are similar to the thermal style except they work properly with "no load" so any leds will blink normally. it flashes slightly faster than oem so 80f/m instead of 60f/m.
05-07-2012
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goto the auto store (pepboys or maybe autozone) and ask if they have a tridon LED flasher for trailering. these types use a copper coil and are similar to the thermal style except they work properly with "no load" so any leds will blink normally. it flashes slightly faster than oem so 80f/m instead of 60f/m.
05-07-2012
#6
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Re: Thermal Flasher
Or add resistors to the LEDs so they match the ohms of a regular bulb.
05-07-2012
#8
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Re: Thermal Flasher
Why?
Simple, cheap, effective. What more could you want?
You could probably hack into the wiring so the resistors aren't inside the lenses, if you want to hide them.
The factory flasher is built into the MICU (body computer inside the fusebox), as CraigW said.
It needs to see a correct load (resistance of the bulb, and amperage to light it up) to regulate flash speed.
LEDs give almost no load, so the flasher goes fast as he!!.
Add resistance to slow down the flasher.
HTH
Simple, cheap, effective. What more could you want?
You could probably hack into the wiring so the resistors aren't inside the lenses, if you want to hide them.
The factory flasher is built into the MICU (body computer inside the fusebox), as CraigW said.
It needs to see a correct load (resistance of the bulb, and amperage to light it up) to regulate flash speed.
LEDs give almost no load, so the flasher goes fast as he!!.
Add resistance to slow down the flasher.
HTH
05-07-2012
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Why?
Simple, cheap, effective. What more could you want?
You could probably hack into the wiring so the resistors aren't inside the lenses, if you want to hide them.
The factory flasher is built into the MICU (body computer inside the fusebox), as CraigW said.
It needs to see a correct load (resistance of the bulb, and amperage to light it up) to regulate flash speed.
LEDs give almost no load, so the flasher goes fast as he!!.
Add resistance to slow down the flasher.
HTH
Simple, cheap, effective. What more could you want?
You could probably hack into the wiring so the resistors aren't inside the lenses, if you want to hide them.
The factory flasher is built into the MICU (body computer inside the fusebox), as CraigW said.
It needs to see a correct load (resistance of the bulb, and amperage to light it up) to regulate flash speed.
LEDs give almost no load, so the flasher goes fast as he!!.
Add resistance to slow down the flasher.
HTH
05-07-2012
#10
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Thermal Flasher
Oh. I get it.
Not sure what you are using for resistors, but you can use a heatsink.
Make it, buy it, whatever.
Just don't short circuit it.
They have special resistors made to mount on heatsinks too, if you don't want to fabricate.
Heatsink.
Wire, run to a remote location, like under the speaker shelf...
Cool looking heatsink!
LOL
http://www.ohmite.com/search.php?function=results
http://www.instructables.com/answers/Resistor-Heatsink/
Since signals front and rear are wired parallel you would only need to locate resistors in one end of the car. As long as the value is enough to cover all the LEDs in the circuit.
Not sure what you are using for resistors, but you can use a heatsink.
Make it, buy it, whatever.
Just don't short circuit it.
They have special resistors made to mount on heatsinks too, if you don't want to fabricate.
Heatsink.
Wire, run to a remote location, like under the speaker shelf...
Cool looking heatsink!
LOL
http://www.ohmite.com/search.php?function=results
http://www.instructables.com/answers/Resistor-Heatsink/
Since signals front and rear are wired parallel you would only need to locate resistors in one end of the car. As long as the value is enough to cover all the LEDs in the circuit.
05-07-2012
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Oh. I get it.
Not sure what you are using for resistors, but you can use a heatsink.
Make it, buy it, whatever.
Just don't short circuit it.
They have special resistors made to mount on heatsinks too, if you don't want to fabricate.
Heatsink.
Wire, run to a remote location, like under the speaker shelf...
Cool looking heatsink!
LOL
http://www.ohmite.com/search.php?function=results
http://www.instructables.com/answers/Resistor-Heatsink/
Since signals front and rear are wired parallel you would only need to locate resistors in one end of the car. As long as the value is enough to cover all the LEDs in the circuit.
Not sure what you are using for resistors, but you can use a heatsink.
Make it, buy it, whatever.
Just don't short circuit it.
They have special resistors made to mount on heatsinks too, if you don't want to fabricate.
Heatsink.
Wire, run to a remote location, like under the speaker shelf...
Cool looking heatsink!
LOL
http://www.ohmite.com/search.php?function=results
http://www.instructables.com/answers/Resistor-Heatsink/
Since signals front and rear are wired parallel you would only need to locate resistors in one end of the car. As long as the value is enough to cover all the LEDs in the circuit.
Ok this is basically what I would do if I were to use a load resistor and not change the flasher instead:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/...istor_info.pdf
The gold/yellow part gets to hot that i would melt plastic and remove paint so I would need to mounted on metal unless there is away I can safely insulated. In a 2009 Honda Civic EX sedan the turn signal wiring is basically in between the fender and the splash guard.
05-07-2012
#12
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Thermal Flasher
Ok this is basically what I would do if I were to use a load resistor and not change the flasher instead:
I doubt you are going to change the flasher unless you are a mad scientist and have no fear of stripping the fusebox apart to get into the MICU.
You better price it before you decide to do it. And add 3 more digits for programming with the dealer level scantool.
I have not had to figure this out for myself, but just from looking at wiring diagrams and info that I have, I think you are stuck with using the resistors if you want it to flash at the right speed.
Or add an extra light bulb on each side. Front or rear.
The gold/yellow part gets to hot that i would melt plastic and remove paint
Ummmm.....
The diagram you linked says in a box at the bottom that the resistor gets as hot as a light bulb and must not be near paint or plastic.
so I would need to mounted on metal unless there is away I can safely insulated.
You don't want it insulated (thermally), you want it toget rid of the heat.With a heat sink.Spread the heat out over a large area so it is easier to get rid of.Large chunk of metal.With fins.
Ever noticed the aluminum fins on an amplifier? Heat sink.
Got a dead amp you can hack up?
That yellow resistor they show in the diagram looks exactly like some in the link I had http://www.ohmite.com/search.php?function=results.
Those are made to be mounted on a heatsink, that's why it has bolt holes in the housing (outer shell).
In a 2009 Honda Civic EX sedan the turn signal wiring is basically in between the fender and the splash guard.
Not sure where you got that from.
The wiring is just in front of the taillights inside the trunk, just pull down the carpet to find it. You could follow it halfway through the car if you really wanted.
Just splice into the correct wires wherever it is convenient. Add wire long enough to reach wherever you want to put the resistors and heat sink.
You could even put the resistors in the front turn signal harnesses and leave them in the engine compartment if you wanted, since the front/rear signals are wired in parallel. Anywhere in the correct circuit, front or rear.
HTH
I doubt you are going to change the flasher unless you are a mad scientist and have no fear of stripping the fusebox apart to get into the MICU.
You better price it before you decide to do it. And add 3 more digits for programming with the dealer level scantool.
I have not had to figure this out for myself, but just from looking at wiring diagrams and info that I have, I think you are stuck with using the resistors if you want it to flash at the right speed.
Or add an extra light bulb on each side. Front or rear.
The gold/yellow part gets to hot that i would melt plastic and remove paint
Ummmm.....
The diagram you linked says in a box at the bottom that the resistor gets as hot as a light bulb and must not be near paint or plastic.
so I would need to mounted on metal unless there is away I can safely insulated.
You don't want it insulated (thermally), you want it toget rid of the heat.With a heat sink.Spread the heat out over a large area so it is easier to get rid of.Large chunk of metal.With fins.
Ever noticed the aluminum fins on an amplifier? Heat sink.
Got a dead amp you can hack up?
That yellow resistor they show in the diagram looks exactly like some in the link I had http://www.ohmite.com/search.php?function=results.
Those are made to be mounted on a heatsink, that's why it has bolt holes in the housing (outer shell).
In a 2009 Honda Civic EX sedan the turn signal wiring is basically in between the fender and the splash guard.
Not sure where you got that from.
The wiring is just in front of the taillights inside the trunk, just pull down the carpet to find it. You could follow it halfway through the car if you really wanted.
Just splice into the correct wires wherever it is convenient. Add wire long enough to reach wherever you want to put the resistors and heat sink.
You could even put the resistors in the front turn signal harnesses and leave them in the engine compartment if you wanted, since the front/rear signals are wired in parallel. Anywhere in the correct circuit, front or rear.
HTH
05-07-2012
#13
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i wouldnt use resistors because that defeats the whole point of leds in the first place-power savings. might as well stay with filament bulbs as you gain no benefit from leds (other than prolly much dimmer brightness). a flasher relay replacement is perfectly safe, so long as the stock part comes out and you can find an aftermarket version (usually the same company makes them all). if the 06+ civics really have the flasher built into the micu, what happens when it stops working? replace the whole fuse box? these cars keep getting better each year lmao.
05-07-2012
#14
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Thermal Flasher
the whole point of leds in the first place-power savings.
Speed of illumination is why I have LEDs in the rear of my bike, handmade board and all...
Instant light from LEDs, as opposed to having to heat up a toaster element that just happens to emit a little light as a byproduct.
And the cool factor.
dimmer brightness
Oxymoron?
replace the whole fuse box? these cars keep getting better each year lmao.
Yes they do. Don't forget the programming that goes with replacing a computer.
lmao.
Speed of illumination is why I have LEDs in the rear of my bike, handmade board and all...
Instant light from LEDs, as opposed to having to heat up a toaster element that just happens to emit a little light as a byproduct.
And the cool factor.
dimmer brightness
Oxymoron?
replace the whole fuse box? these cars keep getting better each year lmao.
Yes they do. Don't forget the programming that goes with replacing a computer.
lmao.
05-07-2012
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To ezone- when I said the turn signal wiring I mean't the harness. It looks like the one in the link. As for the heatsink...it seems complicated since I didn't want anything in the car except near the harness both front and rear.
to gearbox- This is why I would just change the flasher because a load resistor, like you said, defeats the purpose. I have a question for you. Do you own a 8th gen civic or have worked on one where you have actually seen the flasher? I totally agree with you when you said what happens when it stops working.
to gearbox- This is why I would just change the flasher because a load resistor, like you said, defeats the purpose. I have a question for you. Do you own a 8th gen civic or have worked on one where you have actually seen the flasher? I totally agree with you when you said what happens when it stops working.
05-07-2012
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05-07-2012
#17
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
05-07-2012
#19
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Thermal Flasher
The flasher is built into the MICU.
It is not separate.
MICU is inside the dash fusebox.
You are not going to change it unless it quits completely, and then the new fusebox must be programmed. Dealer.
It is not separate.
MICU is inside the dash fusebox.
You are not going to change it unless it quits completely, and then the new fusebox must be programmed. Dealer.
05-07-2012
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o well. All the need is video/picture DIY of this because I am a visual learner lol 
....suspicious lol
05-08-2012
#23
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Thermal Flasher
C&P:
The heat generated must be removed to ensure optimal performance. Heat Removal
Newton's law of cooling states that the rate of heat loss is proportional to the temperature difference between a body and its surroundings. As a component's temperature increases, the rate of heat loss per second equates to the heat-per-second produced within the component. For some components, internally produced heat may be high enough to significantly shorten the component's working life and eventually cause it to fail.
One heat-removal technique is to attach a heat-sink, artificially increasing surface area in order to allow heat to dissipate. The heat-sink is usually composed of a highly thermally conductive material (e.g., a metal), so the heat can be transferred away from the component. Heat is mainly lost from the surface of a body into its surroundings; therefore, heat-sinks generally are constructed with fins to maximize the surface area per unit volume.
The device and heat-sink are typically solid substrates. In order to facilitate heat transfer between the device and the heat-sink, the gap between them must be eliminated, since air is an extremely poor thermal conductor. The use of a thermal adhesive, such as CMI’s 109-12, can significantly improve the thermal interface between the two substrates.
GIS:
It is really just using the yellow resistor in your link diagram, and bolting it to a large chunk of aluminum. Fins help.
Then stick it somewhere it can get a little air, not covered up by carpet..
Is this making sense?
Google images search for resistor with heatsink.
The heat generated must be removed to ensure optimal performance. Heat Removal
Newton's law of cooling states that the rate of heat loss is proportional to the temperature difference between a body and its surroundings. As a component's temperature increases, the rate of heat loss per second equates to the heat-per-second produced within the component. For some components, internally produced heat may be high enough to significantly shorten the component's working life and eventually cause it to fail.
One heat-removal technique is to attach a heat-sink, artificially increasing surface area in order to allow heat to dissipate. The heat-sink is usually composed of a highly thermally conductive material (e.g., a metal), so the heat can be transferred away from the component. Heat is mainly lost from the surface of a body into its surroundings; therefore, heat-sinks generally are constructed with fins to maximize the surface area per unit volume.
The device and heat-sink are typically solid substrates. In order to facilitate heat transfer between the device and the heat-sink, the gap between them must be eliminated, since air is an extremely poor thermal conductor. The use of a thermal adhesive, such as CMI’s 109-12, can significantly improve the thermal interface between the two substrates.
GIS:
It is really just using the yellow resistor in your link diagram, and bolting it to a large chunk of aluminum. Fins help.
Then stick it somewhere it can get a little air, not covered up by carpet..
Is this making sense?
Google images search for resistor with heatsink.
05-08-2012
#24
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you posted literally the same thing i did just seconds earlier ha. didnt see the need for double posts with the same info.
05-08-2012
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C&P:
The heat generated must be removed to ensure optimal performance. Heat Removal
Newton's law of cooling states that the rate of heat loss is proportional to the temperature difference between a body and its surroundings. As a component's temperature increases, the rate of heat loss per second equates to the heat-per-second produced within the component. For some components, internally produced heat may be high enough to significantly shorten the component's working life and eventually cause it to fail.
One heat-removal technique is to attach a heat-sink, artificially increasing surface area in order to allow heat to dissipate. The heat-sink is usually composed of a highly thermally conductive material (e.g., a metal), so the heat can be transferred away from the component. Heat is mainly lost from the surface of a body into its surroundings; therefore, heat-sinks generally are constructed with fins to maximize the surface area per unit volume.
The device and heat-sink are typically solid substrates. In order to facilitate heat transfer between the device and the heat-sink, the gap between them must be eliminated, since air is an extremely poor thermal conductor. The use of a thermal adhesive, such as CMI’s 109-12, can significantly improve the thermal interface between the two substrates.
GIS:
It is really just using the yellow resistor in your link diagram, and bolting it to a large chunk of aluminum. Fins help.
Then stick it somewhere it can get a little air, not covered up by carpet..
Is this making sense?
Google images search for resistor with heatsink.
The heat generated must be removed to ensure optimal performance. Heat Removal
Newton's law of cooling states that the rate of heat loss is proportional to the temperature difference between a body and its surroundings. As a component's temperature increases, the rate of heat loss per second equates to the heat-per-second produced within the component. For some components, internally produced heat may be high enough to significantly shorten the component's working life and eventually cause it to fail.
One heat-removal technique is to attach a heat-sink, artificially increasing surface area in order to allow heat to dissipate. The heat-sink is usually composed of a highly thermally conductive material (e.g., a metal), so the heat can be transferred away from the component. Heat is mainly lost from the surface of a body into its surroundings; therefore, heat-sinks generally are constructed with fins to maximize the surface area per unit volume.
The device and heat-sink are typically solid substrates. In order to facilitate heat transfer between the device and the heat-sink, the gap between them must be eliminated, since air is an extremely poor thermal conductor. The use of a thermal adhesive, such as CMI’s 109-12, can significantly improve the thermal interface between the two substrates.
GIS:
It is really just using the yellow resistor in your link diagram, and bolting it to a large chunk of aluminum. Fins help.
Then stick it somewhere it can get a little air, not covered up by carpet..
Is this making sense?
Google images search for resistor with heatsink.
05-08-2012
#26
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Thermal Flasher
Is there smaller sizes?
I'm pretty sure you can get damn near any size you need.
The resistor is going to be pretty close to blinker like I showed you in the diagram.
(The diagram: http://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/...istor_info.pdf)
Close?
What blinker?
Who cares?
You must not understand electricity. It isn't like plumbing. It doesn't rely on gravity to operate.
You can splice in anywhere in the circuit for this. Front signals or rear. You can put the resistor on the damn roof, if you want.
I'm guessing this heatsink is pretty heavy so it can't hang just from the wires (freely in the air).
Never dangle anything by its wires.
Another think with the resistor on the heatsink can I mounted on plastic with no harm?
If the sink is big enough and dissipates heat fast enough.
HTH
I'm pretty sure you can get damn near any size you need.
The resistor is going to be pretty close to blinker like I showed you in the diagram.
(The diagram: http://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/...istor_info.pdf)
Close?
What blinker?
Who cares?
You must not understand electricity. It isn't like plumbing. It doesn't rely on gravity to operate.
You can splice in anywhere in the circuit for this. Front signals or rear. You can put the resistor on the damn roof, if you want.
I'm guessing this heatsink is pretty heavy so it can't hang just from the wires (freely in the air).
Never dangle anything by its wires.
Another think with the resistor on the heatsink can I mounted on plastic with no harm?
If the sink is big enough and dissipates heat fast enough.
HTH
05-08-2012
#27
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Is there smaller sizes?
I'm pretty sure you can get damn near any size you need.
The resistor is going to be pretty close to blinker like I showed you in the diagram.
(The diagram: http://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/...istor_info.pdf)
Close?
What blinker?
Who cares?
You must not understand electricity. It isn't like plumbing. It doesn't rely on gravity to operate.
You can splice in anywhere in the circuit for this. Front signals or rear. You can put the resistor on the damn roof, if you want.
I'm guessing this heatsink is pretty heavy so it can't hang just from the wires (freely in the air).
Never dangle anything by its wires.
Another think with the resistor on the heatsink can I mounted on plastic with no harm?
If the sink is big enough and dissipates heat fast enough.
HTH
I'm pretty sure you can get damn near any size you need.
The resistor is going to be pretty close to blinker like I showed you in the diagram.
(The diagram: http://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/...istor_info.pdf)
Close?
What blinker?
Who cares?
You must not understand electricity. It isn't like plumbing. It doesn't rely on gravity to operate.
You can splice in anywhere in the circuit for this. Front signals or rear. You can put the resistor on the damn roof, if you want.
I'm guessing this heatsink is pretty heavy so it can't hang just from the wires (freely in the air).
Never dangle anything by its wires.
Another think with the resistor on the heatsink can I mounted on plastic with no harm?
If the sink is big enough and dissipates heat fast enough.
HTH
05-08-2012
#28
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get some thermal epoxy and mount it to a piece of metal frame. just sand the two sides and wipe with alcohol to get a good bond.
05-08-2012
#29
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Thermal Flasher
LOL trust me I know how electricity works I'm a mechanical engineering student LOL.
But anyway when I said blinker I mean't the bulb.
So basically I'm going to have to somehow fit the heatsink between the fender and the flasher guard since the harness is located there.
That is my problem. How will it fit in that small space, where to mount and how?
But anyway when I said blinker I mean't the bulb.
So basically I'm going to have to somehow fit the heatsink between the fender and the flasher guard since the harness is located there.
That is my problem. How will it fit in that small space, where to mount and how?
**blinks in disbelief**
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