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What you will need: Phillips Head Screwdriver, Flathead Screwdriver (or other small prying device or Lee Press-on nails), A Socket Wrench, 14mm socket, 10mm socket.
There have been numerous people hounding for this. I don't understand how this job got blown so out of proportion making it sound like it was some hella-difficult job to complete. Takes about 15mins to take apart with a friend and about 25 mins alone. Do it more than once and it'll be 15 mins alone.
*note*the pictures and guides are based on a coupe, so if you own a sedan one thing you'll notice different is the first step, but this guide can be used to remove your rear deck as well =o)
First step is to get your 14mm wrench and undo the bar that holds down the front seat belts.
After you get the bar removed you'll probably want to wrap it up in a towel or something else to prevent it from scratching up your panels while you're working.
Alright now get your small flat head screw driver, or prying device, or Lee press-on nails, and flip open the little cover underneath the rear arm rest / hand rail.
Behind this tab is the only screw that holds this panel on, get your phillips head screw driver to remove it.
Now repeat steps 1-2 for the other side, then proceed to step 3
Next we'll want to remove the rear 1/3 seat. Fold down both seats first. Behind the 1/3 seat you'll see a flap held on by velcro
Peel back the flap and you'll find two 10mm bolts, take your wrench to that and remove both bolts.
After un-screwing the two bolts you should be able to slide the seat out as shown
Now, there's another 10mm bolt holding on the 2/3 seat, unscrew that as well and you should be able to remove the seat exactly the same way as the 1/3.
With the 2/3 seat you may have to push it a little bit towards the side panel before being able to get the axle out of the middle post.
Now going back to the side panel, you will notice a black plastic pop-in screw holding it to back. You'll want to pop this out.
You can either pry it out, brute force it out by pulling on the panel, or you'll notice a side cover which you can pop off, allowing your hand to reach behind the panel and support it whilst pulling.
You'll want to remove the plastic cover that's over the pillar at this point.
After removing it, you'll see this white plastic clip, from this pull it out, and then work your way around the top edge of the side panel.
Once you reach the front you'll need to pull straight up in order to free the panel, from this point on you should be able to remove the entire side panel.
Take caution not to scratch up your panels as you remove them.
This is what your car should look like after removing the side panel.
Now before removing the infamous rear deck, go underneath in the trunk and unplug your third brake light.
*NOTE* at this point you can also take the opportunity to make the next step easier by taking pliers and squeezing the white plugs that hold the deck down from underneath and loosening them.
As demonstrated by TsunamiSplash here, you'll need to pop out the white clips before giving it a good pull or else you risk breaking them.
You'll also find three tabs that fold over and underneath at the front of the rear deck these just unfold to unclip the front
Now yank up and out...you'll now have removed the rear deck!
Now you're able to get your windows tinted properly, or install those new 6x9's or clean your windows!
The stock pioneer's are crappy paper cones as you can see here, they're held on by 4 screws and you can see that it's a BIZNATCH to remove the 4th screw closest to the window. By the way it takes an 8mm socket
Same Deal on the left side.
Now before you put your deck back together, you'll want to check to see if you left any of these white plugs behind when pulling it out.
If you did, you'll want to remove them and place them on the actual deck before replacing..cuz it's much more difficult to slide them in if you don't. And if you don't notice them..hey you're gonna have a nasty rattle!
here's the underside of the rear deck, there should be a total of 7 white plugs. you'll see that two are cut off the pic, and there are two missing from the middle holders. Now you can see why it's so difficult to slide it in if you leave them in the metal deck.
Here's the locations of the plugs on the underside of the pillar covers, make sure you pound it in good or you'll get rattles in your pillar too.
Well, I got around to doing all of this today. Sadly what I am fginding I think, is that due to my speakers being top mounted and spaced to clear the torsion bars, it's keeping the back far left and right corners from popping down properly. The front 3 and back 2 center pop in good, but those corners cannot be pushed down. I'm going to have to find a way to make the trunk pop open with the torsion bars removed, then get them removed and bottom mount the speakers so the deck mounts flat like it should. Need to redo a bunch of the foam stripping too while I'm at it.