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After you unpack your parts, here is what you should have. Two main intake tubes, some rubber adapters, hose clamps, screw, nut, washers, stickers, and the filter.
Before you start, You may need the following tools. It is suggested you have most of these tools, because bare hands don't always work that well.
A) Hex Driver B) Hex Driver C) 27mm Deep Socket D) 10mm socket E) 19mm socket F) 12mm socket
G) 4" socket extension H) 9.6V Power Drill I) Side Cutters J) Socket wrench K) 10mm wrench L) 12mm wrench
First here are some pictures of what you will be working with. I suggest you familiarize yourself with your engine compartment before doing any work. And if you have never seen under the hood before, well, now is a good time to start.
Notice the two large black boxes, you will be removing these completely.
FIRST: Remove each screw indicated by the yellow arrows. You will need a Philips head screw driver or 8mm socket, which I failed to include on my required tools.
SECOND: After the cover is removed, and the filter removed, using your 10mm socket and extentions, remove the mounting bolts on the baffle housing. Also remove the bolts on the intake tube.
THIRD: Remove the baffle housing and intake tube. You should be able to do this without disconnecting the battery cables. Also, watch for the retaining clip mounted on the back of the baffle housing. Just press down on the tab and pull, it should come loose fairly easily.
LASTLY: Remove the last of the bolts holding the filter housing base onto the intake manifold. Remove the hose connected directly to the engine and the temp. sensor on the right hand side.
Now we will need to remove the stock transmission mounting bracket. FIRST: Using your 27mm deep socket (PepBoys $4.99), remove the reverse light switch, and don't loose the washer. *** Carefull to not drop anything in the hole... ***
SECOND: After removing the ground cable and clutch line bracket, remove the two 12mm bolts holding the mounting bracket onto the transmission housing.
THIRD: Install the reverse light switch. Make sure it still has the washer.
LASTLY: Install the new AEM supplied bracket. The AEM instructions call for removing the nut attached to the transmission mount, which requires 40 ft/lbs. of trouqe, but there is another solution. Thanks to InspectaDeck on 2k1civic.com, while you are at PepBoys getting your 27mm deep socket, pick up a nut to fit (12x1.25 - $0.19). The head size will most likly turn out to be 19mm, at least mine was. Now just mount the bracket on top of the stock nut, and tighten. Attach ground cable onto bracket as well.
Install the adapter sleve onto the throtle body using one of the 2" hose clamps.
After tightened down, slide a second clamp over the sleve for tightening on the upper pipe.
Install the intake sensor gromit into the hole on upper pipe.
Mount upper intake pipe onto the throtle body sleve and mount the support arm onto the stock mounting point using AEM's supplied bolt and washer.
Now connect the breather hose between engine body and upper intake pipe. I found you can only use one hose clamp because the mounting tube on the engine is too large for the clamp to fit around. Because of it's size, you shouldn't need to worry about the hose disconnecting, ever. You can also attach the intake sensor at this point too.
LAST Step for upper intake pipe: attach the adapter hose, and keep the clamp loose enough for movement.
FIRST: Using the supplied mounting bolt, mount the clutch line bracket onto the new AEM bracket from the top.
SECOND: Now mount the lower tube into the adapter pipe and attach the support arm onto the mounting bolt using the second washer and nut supplied in the kit (10mm socket/10mm wrench). You may need to move and adjust the pipes until they sit flush with the mounting surfaces.
Now tighten all your hose clamps and make sure all your tubbing sits well positioned.
Hopefully it should look like this by now.
Now here's the hard part, at least for some of you. Jack up the car, and crawl under the engine compartment. get the last hose clamp, slide it over the filter tube, and install the filter onto the lower intake pipe. You should be able to mount it under the transmission body and not have it touch any parts underneth. the end of the filter should sit just above the splash guard as well.
Tighten the clamp, and BAM! you're not done yet!
The Final Step: Remove protective tape on AEM logo! Also, you may want to reset your Fuel Injection ECU. If you don't your car will still eventually learn how to deal with the new mass amounts of air. This just makes the process a little faster. Thanks to 2k1civic.com member knight who posted this a long ass time ago. To do this: A) Open the fuse box in your engine compartment and look on the diagram for the F.I. ECU (7.5 amp fuse) B) Pull the fuse out and wait 10 minutes or longer. C) Put the fuse back in. D) VERY IMPORTANT - Start the car, and DO NOT touch the gas peddle!!! E) Let the car idle for about 10 minutes, DO NOT toch the GAS!!! F) Turn off car. G) Turn on car, and turn back off. H) Turn back on, and make some noise!!!
BAM! Now you're done!
These are all the parts you should have left over. And contrary to popular belief, car stickers do not make your car go faster!
AEM CAI installed in a 2k1 Honda Civic LX 5speed 2DR Coupe
Estimated Install time: .5 - 2 hours, based on skill level.
Intake Sensor and breather hose.
Mounting bracket.
Intake Pipping.
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