damn that is a lot of miles. i am at about 60k on the b20 i swapped in. it is still strong. i just finished figuring out some issues i had with idle. believe it or not it was the battery and alt. once those were replaced it runs GREAT. getting new tires over the weekend so ill be prepared. falken azenis RT615 215/45/16.. hehe. i love them. i have 205/40's on now but they aer getting bad. so i want a little bigger tire this time.

i am sure we will see eachother at a meet sometime soon, then we can line um up!! LOL

my original b18a had over 200k. im startin fresh. i dont want someone elses abuse on my motor. i plan to throw a lot of boost and a lot of nitrous at this motor and it has to hold up.

how did you register it with a b20 in the bay?

i'm lucky that my engine is still pretty strong with the mileage. you can tell honda designed this engine to easily last 300k. I'm going to finish working on the outside first then work on the engine.

you guys on team-integra?

i looked at team integra last night. probably going to join. im already on honda-tech, this site, g2ic, and my forum.

i dont really like honda tech...there too many ricers on that website. i mainly check here and team integra now.

i am 96tegls2dr on T I. i havent had to smog it yet but iti shouldnt be a problem. the motor is a 97 jap b20 and my car is a 96. same year or newer with orig. vehicle smog equip.

im goin from an obd0 b18a to an obd1 b18b in a 90 LS. i dont plan on registering it anyway as of now. its probably gonna be a trailer queen to the track and back. i dont like the idea of puttin all this money in it and not being able to drive it around. i had my 780whp gsr registered, but it was before we started emissions testing. we just started about a year ago and its thrown a wrech in the gears for sure. muffler shops were packed with modded cars.

i finally did my jdm conversion.

I'm pretty much done with the outside. I'm just going to get the type R lip and rear lip.

I just need to work on the engine.

I'm debating wheather i should stick with NA or go boost.

I found out the greddy turbo kit is carb legal

Looks new, good job on it.

looks 100x better. i tried to fanagle the type r front end out of a fender bender i got in to. i got hit in parking lot and well i got a new front end but not the JDM type r i wanted. but oh well. your car looks great. nwo lets line them up LOL

there is actually a greddy kit on ebay for $2100 including emanage and injectors. brand new too.. that isnt a bad price. but you will want to put on an I/C later on and upgrade to high boost levels. but the greddy kit kind of makes it easy to do that. you should check it out and liek you said it is carb legal. i would wait to boost it though until you rebuild, with 160k i would be kind of leary

^^^^
you should post pics of your car.

I know turbo is where i want to be power wise, but after doing more research in the cost of rebuilding my block, sleeving, and the cost of the turbo itself...i'm leaning more towards NA since i already have a high compression engine.

Here's my NA build so far. I bit it off some other guys build on the integra forums for a carb legal build NA. I'm lookin at a 9000rpm-9500rpm redline. I want 200whp, but i'm thinking it'll be probably more 175whp to 185whp with a powerband of 7000rpm to 9000rpm. I'm still probably going to edit the list as i do more research.

You think if i bore it out to 85mm it'll still pass smog or will it fail miseably?

NA engine build


block
H beam eagle rods $310
ARP ROD BOLTS 3/8 $70
MUGEN HEAD GASKET kit $100
ARP Head Studs 208-4303 Acura Integra GSR $130
CURA INTEGRA GSR TYPE-R OIL PUMP $100

total $710

head
skunk2 stage 1 camshafts $540
SKUNK2 TITANIUM RETAINERS & VALVE SPRINGS $350
Skunk2 Pro-Series Intake Manifold $250
AEM HIGH VOLUME FUEL RAIL 94-01 ACURA INTEGRA $120
WALBRO 255 LPH FUEL PUMP Acura Integra $80
GOLDEN EAGLE CAM SEAL TRIPLE $30
GOLDEN EAGLE CAM GEARS B-SERIES $200
JDM Authentic Integra Type-R DC2 ITR 62mm Throttle Body $200
JDM INTEGRA TYPE R PISTONS $190
JDM Honda Integra type R intake valves $125


Hondadata s200 ecu $500

need some new floormats lol, otherwise it looks great...white wheels would be a nice add on i think

I have the cheap walmart rubber floor mats. I looks dirty because i stepped in some mudd during the day of the meet.

As for the wheels, right now i have my beater 17's on. I need to get shocks first though. My driver side shock is blown. Then i'm going to get the rear and front lips and build the engine.

ill try to get some pics up tonight..
the thing is that since i have a b20, 200whp isnt far away. with a headswap, injectors and tune with ls cams i am there. i want something a little bit harder. LOL besides smog isnt of concern. i know people and on top of that the car wont be driven much after the build.

realistically you can find stock rebuild kits for $500. that with boost would put you over 200whp and leave room for improvement. and it wouldnt be much different in cost. I put a kit together for my s10 for $1500. all new parts too. my redline will be a little lower due to weaker cyl walls at arounf 8k-8500. a set or arp rods bolt will do the trick holding the rods to the crank. b20's are notorious for 2 things over reving and causing rod bearings to spin and thin cyl walls cracking. if you keep your revs under control neither will be of great concern.

and remember if you want 300whp, N/A wont do it. but if you build boost even with a stock bottom end you can always use a block guard to run higher boost later on and prevent cyl walk. i have seen stock bottom ends push 350+whp

hey how much was the paint job btw?

I paid $800, it included the door jams and trunk area.

Post the link to the pics when you finally have them up. I was looking more toward 200whp-250whp. I'm little bit more comfortable with NA, but i'm going to do some more research. I do like the power point of turbo, but i also like the idea of being able to rev to 9k-9500rpm.

first things first, i'm going to get my koni's.

let me know if you want any b series engine parts. ive got a b18b1 block and crank that is wicked clean. bought it from the owner of the machine shop i use. ive got an 0bd0 LS head, an obd1 LS head, obd0 LS intake mani, obd1 LS intake mani, obd0 LS throttle body, obd0 and obd1 engine harnesses, and tons of other b18 parts im tryin to get rid of. and it might help with your build so you can leave your motor in until you have another one built and ready to drop in. ive got a b20b bare block thats bored to 91mm if i understood the guy at the machine shop right. i sent it off months ago to experiment with and it got resleeved and bored like there was no tomorrow. i never picked the project back up.

^^^^^
i probably would...if you weren't in TN. I'd get raped on shipping. If i had a house i would just buy another block, unfortunately houses are really expensive in cali so i have to live in a apt. I'm probably just going to buy all the parts i need piece by piece then just do it all at once.

i shipped a bare block and head to louisana and it was $68.33. 110 pounds.

having a bit of trouble uploading pics. i need to fix my home pc. 200-250whp would be easy to obtain with boost. with a rebuild kit and low boost(6psi) you could easily make that. then when your ready to increase power just increase boost. you should be able to tune in about 8-10psi putting you in the 300whp range. boost isnt hard. if i could make a reccomendation, go get the book "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. it will give you all the insight as to what it would take to get it done. seriously $1500 kit i put together got me a 120whp gain @8psi on my old s10.

Looks nice. I'd like to learn a bit more about the whole carputer deal.

yeah i was doing so more research. For now my engine is really strong for its age. I'm going to work on my suspension then work on getting the car smog exempt. Once its smog exempt, i dont have to worry about fix it tickets and i can throw whatever i want in the engine bay. I'll probably just go with a custom kit and hondata s300.

best place to start doing your research is mp3car.com | your source for mobile computing solutions

I learn a lot from this site. if you have knowledge about computers and basically wiring, its a pretty easy install. Just be ready to spent some cash, its going to at least be $600-700.

NICE! me likey.

wow looks gooodd

OMG LOOK AT THAT RICE!!!! j/p bro. finally get to see your teggy after uve been bragging about the things uve done to it. yea im way late blah blah blah but i dont come to the ricer site anymore only to check the mid atlantic section. that looks like a freaking desktop computer unless its smaller than it looks.

still trying to upload pics.
if you need help with smog i can probably hook u up. but obviously since you just bought it you have 2yrs before it comes up again.

and i also have a ton of spare b series parts. complete ls motor, obdI mani, GSR mani... all sorts of stuff, i could list but why. i even have an extra set of dc mirrors power in silver and a replacement silver gas door. like i said tons of little shizz. if you need anything let me know.
temjinx2 seriously we need to meet up. i want to check out your front end and carputer and also line em up...LOL just got my new tires and finally exceeded the 500 mile mark so i am good to rip it up. went for the falken azenis rt615 in a 215/45/16. traction feels even better then the rt615's in a 205/40/16 i had on before. still havent launched it hard though. i think my clutch is next. the 4 puk unsprung i have now the pads were getting pretty worn when i did the motor swap and i have heard a little chirp for the past week when i let the clutch out. so i think the flywheel needs to be resurfaced and a new 4 puk unsprung disk needs to be installed. but it still grabs like no other just the little chirp when letting the clutch out.

i have also had an idle problem forever. thought i fixed it several times but it keeps showing it ugly face. i have done soo much troubleshooting to try to find out what it is and i am stumped. its down to the TPS now. i have replaced the motor, motor mounts, alt, bat, dizzy cap and rotor and coil and a new set of ngk iridiums even a new primary O2. cleaned out my IACV and check and swapped out the MAP to see if it made a difference. nothing. so i am down to the TPS and i am hoping this will solve my problem. it isnt too bad just annoying to have it struggle to keep the idle up at a light. sometimes it idles fine and others it doesnt it wants to drop and die out. IDK...grrrrr
but motor feels strong. ill let you take it for a spin when we meet. you can see what a difference a stiff strong clutch makes lol

Hey man,

yeah i'm getting my tsx retro in soon. What site you on now? It is a desktop computer. I built it using spare computer parts i had to keep the costs down. The only thing i bought was the case, dc to dc power supply and the screen. The touch screen works well.

You should check out the new 08 sti. They finally reworked the front.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/a...1&d=1171003512

Yeah i'm down to meet. We should setup a mini meet or something. Where you located? I'm located around cerritos.


My cars a 94, so its already obd I. I'm saving for new tires and shocks. Right now i have 215-45-17 from my 7th on there. I'm probably going to get some yokohama's with a 205-40-17. I'm going to try out some engine restorer stuff after my oil change this weekend and see if i can regain any lost compression. I'm probably going to take out my skunk2 muffler too and switch out with a rsx one as well. The skunk2 sounds great, but sux as a Daily driver exhaust.