got keyed... duplicolor?
 

i bought this duplicolor 2 in 1 scratch formula for my car... sadly i was keyed on the passenger door and on my hood... i was wondering if anyone had used this and wat were their results?... its one long key mark... cut through the paint.. i can see the primer.... pleaseeeee give input cuz it comes with some sort of wet sandpaper and im scared i will mess up my car on the side... wondering if i should try it or leave it with just a huge scratch....

take to body shop

wouldnt they just try to repaint my whole door? also how much would this run me? i already bought thsi duplicolor so im wondering if its worth trying or to just leave it and return it...

dont get the duplicator, its not the same color. get paint from paintscratch.com

they have paint thats made specifically for our cars.

r u sure?... its duplicolor and it has the matching number as my paint on the bottle... its also specifically for hondas with the same model number on the bottle

damn man i know how you feel. my car just got keyed last weekend i thought about using duplicolor and all these other stuff then changed my mind and eneded up bringing it to the shop instead cause i know it will not be the same as original. dont waste your time bro if you really want it perfect bring it to the shop cause its gonna keep bothering you no matter what you do until you bring it.

ive never tried duplicator but ive seen those in pepboys, autozone, etc.

to be honest with u, i wouldnt trust them when it comes to paint. id either go to a body shop or just go to paintscratch.com

u can try it and tell us how it turns out

im scared as hell hahahaha how much did the shop charge u?

u can always sand it down if u mess up

im just scared ima sand down the original paint thats not messed up or keyed and not be able to restore that.. thats why im scared or else id just do it =]

check this ish out, it's really easy. If you're repainting a section of your car, you can do it and make it look good. The whole duplicolor thing is fine as long as you paint along the natural bodylines of the car, no one will know. I have to run, but tomorrow I promise I'll post a DIY for paint/repaint.

sweet. please make it ASAP! i got scratches ive been dying to fix.

Take it to a body shop and repaint the door and the hood. Save your time with all that touching up.

hey I feel you on the scratches man. My dog (now EXdog) scratched and chewed up both of my fenders and the front bumper and hood. It bugs the hell out of me whenever I see it. Anyways, the bite marks and scratches are too freakin deep so I am getting the my car repainted once my kaminari lip kit comes in.
I really dont trust the duplicolor thing... try and checkout that paintscratch.com TOEnail said.

Save your time and take it to the body shop. Its better to have it professionally done then to do it and then not be happy with the out come.

i went to napa and they gave me the exact paint ...... but dont do it by urself

A project like this CAN be done with excellent results. This is of course, if you are interested in spending some quality time with your car. I looked in the "Tech chat and DIY" section of the site, and as for painting the area, you would follow the same procedure. But I'll just re-write it here. And I'm thinking about writing a whole DIY for it. (I did a complete color change on my first car, and would like to share the info.)

1) PLANNING Determine the area in which you are going to touch up. This area is not always just the section on the vehicle where the scratch is, sometimes it's more. For example, if there is a scratch on the door, then you might want to repaint a strip the size of the scratch vertically and the length of the door horizontally. Know what I mean?

2) MASKING/PREP Use painters tape (blue roll) or masking tape, or any kinda tape for that matter in conjunction with a lot of newspaper and diligence to mask off everything that you do not want to be sprayed with.(I use large old blankets that I don't mind getting paint on.)

3) SANDING/PREP At this point weather you have a dent that you are going to bondo or just a scratch to fix, you need to sand. If you do not sand, and you just paint right on top of the old paint, then you will see the scratch through the new paint, it'll just be a colored in scratch.
____3a) You can use your hands, or you can use one of those block sanders that vibrates quickly to sand for you. One takes longer then the other.... :-) remember, if you do decide to use a hand sander, use a block sander with a flat bottom to ensure smoothness. Sand the area beginning with a lower grit number such as 200 or 300. Sand all of the scratch out, but try not to sand anything you don't have to.
___3b) Continue sanding with a higher grit number you can move up to 400 or 500. Just nice and easy, pretend you are sanding the outside of an egg, or something, nice and easy.
___3c) SAND MORE! but here's the catch, sand with a higher grit such as 1000 or 1500 do this just a lil bit, then by hand-Wetsand. Wetsanding is a controlled method that you use to complete the sanding process. Dip the 1000 or 1500 in some water, then sand carefully in the section where the scratch is. Not too much water, just enough to control the scratches that the sand makes.

REMEMBER- Check periodically through these steps to feel with your hand the smoothness of the section where the scratch was. In most cases when dealing with paint you don't really need to get crazy with the amount of stages of grit you use. If you're dealing with bondo or polyester body filler, then obviously, you will most likely want to use more then just three stages of grit. Moving on....

4) PRIMER/PREP When you are done wetsanding and you have a perfectly smooth and oh so fresh section to paint on top of: Just take a blow dryer and dry the beast. You'd laugh when you see some people try to spray paint over a wet surface. At this point you'll either see a grey surface which is the factory primer, or a shiny metal surface, which is the bare metal. Seeing either is OK. This is where the tricky part comes in. Spray primer in the section that you masked off, make sure you apply evenly and cleanly. In my own practices/opinion, I've always just sprayed primer over the spot where the scratch was and NOT to the edge of where I masked it off. I believe that this benefits because then you don't have this sharp raised edge where the primer and the paint stops. After you prime it, find a dry piece of 1000 or 1500 whichever was the highest grit you used, and barely just smooth out the area around the primer that meets the paint on the car. If you feel the area where the primer meets the paint on the car, it'll feel rough and not good. If you touch it easily with a high grit, it will remove that roughness.

Prep is done. Imagine doing that on an entire car!

5) PAINT THE SON-OF-UH... Check it out, there is a piece of cloth, I don't remember the exact name, I think it's called prep cloth or something. You can get it anywhere, even at like the auto/paint/sandpaper section in Walmart. I reccommend using it. all you do with it is wipe the entire surface of the area you are going to paint, it picks up all foriegn objects that may have landed on your working area, aliens maybe? From Planet X or Mexico I suppose. Wipe it and spray. Spray conservatively---> too much and it'll run and drip. not enough and it'll patch up and not come together for a glass like finish. SIDE NOTE: Still have that blow dryer with you? Good, use it from a good distance to promote quick drying. Just spray paint a couple of coats of that stuff untill you're satisfied with the results.

6) LET IT DRY Um....yeah...this might be kinda difficult for those people with ADD....you know like not wanting to sit still for 10 seconds. Let it dry. only when it is one hundred percent dry should you remove the masking tape etc.

EXTRA If you ever decide that you want to tackle those dents use the same process but slip in the Bondo or Polyester body filler after you sand but before you prime. More sanding is better then less sanding. So when you think you are done sanding, sand some more.

Hm, I don't believe I've left anything out. The only thing that I can think of is weather or not you should use a clear coat. The answer is- I don't know. What does the can of paint say? When you've finished painting everything and your all said and done-do you believe that it should be shininer? If so then ya friggin clear coat it. It's all about what you think as you're doing it/ when it's done. Keep in mind, if at any point in time you think you've messed up or anything, or if you're just not satisfied with the results, then you can just let it dry, sand it down and start over. I hope your project goes well, show em who's boss.
now that i've written this article, I feel like writing an article on molding a body kit, and methods for color change. Does anyone think I should write one? Is there already an article on that here?

insurance will cover it taking mine down today all down the drivers side and across the trunk real deep all the way around

duplicolor works on parts, but will NOT blend with the metallic paint. The SSM match duplicolor is NOT metallic at all.
I painted my grill, rear trunk molding, and eyelids in the duplicolor and It looks perfect from any distance, but in real hard sun it won't shine like the rest of the car. 99% or the time perfect, but it won't blend

Yo Eyger, what about the clear coat man?

I wrote a lil blurb about the clear coat at the very end of the article: I've always used clear coats on all of my projects, just because it looks nice when it's done. I don't have any personal first hand expirence with the duplicolor, so I couldn't say. The only way that I would suggest using a clear coat would be if the same company that you buy, in this case 'Duplicolor' created a clear coat. AKA only using manufacturer similar clear coats, just to make sure. Because I donno how different or similar standard clear coat for like furniture/standard applications from automotive clear coat.