Sway bar Noise is too much Here is the deal, about two months ago I had noise coming from my progress front sway bar, and it was crazy loud. So I finally took the bolts securing the poly bushings off and lubed up the bushings with silicone grease. I did both the front and rear sway. It sounded fantastic!!:) No noise what so ever. Today the noise is back and bigger than ever. Obviously the grease i used wasnt the right type, so question is what is the right grease to use? I also have an idea that would probably half work. there is this stuff called teflon tape used in the plumbing industry to seal screw type joints. If there was a way to install this tape and prevent it from squeezing out from between the sway bar and the poly bushing I think this would be best. So question is what will hold that teflon tape in there? Keep in mind that the teflon tape is not sticky so it wont adhere by itself. |
tell me tell me tell me. somebody just tell me what grease will work and last long time.... |
Lithium grease works the best. Comes in a can or jar and it's about 7 bucks. |
Originally Posted by half_n_half17 Lithium grease works the best. Comes in a can or jar and it's about 7 bucks. I will post my results one day with the lithium. But remember guys, 100% silicone grease is worthless for this application. |
how long did the orginal grease you used last for? |
Find something that says "Marine" or "outdoor use" or something to that effect. Marine grease is best because its designed for water use. |
most lithium-based greases are high-quality EP level 2 lubricant, which is what i use in 1000+ hp domestic hot rod applications (drivetrain parts). |
Originally Posted by Boilermaker1 Find something that says "Marine" or "outdoor use" or something to that effect. Marine grease is best because its designed for water use. totally agree |
Originally Posted by D5cIvIc how long did the orginal grease you used last for? |
Originally Posted by CivicSF most lithium-based greases are high-quality EP level 2 lubricant, which is what i use in 1000+ hp domestic hot rod applications (drivetrain parts). |
why not just save money and keep on lubing it every now and then with the grease you already have |
Originally Posted by D5cIvIc why not just save money and keep on lubing it every now and then with the grease you already have |
real grease keeps you on the road. shitty grease can cause shhit to fail. think about being 3 hours from the closest town to bumfuk, whereever, and having your axle about to fall off cause you use shitty CV grease 30k miles ago and didn't maintenance it since. that'll get you using EP greases mighty quick. |
Here's a technique I read about that some off-roaders use with poly bushings. Rough up the inside of the bushing with some sandpaper (80 grit worked for me) then install with whatever grease you choose. Worked great for my rear ES bushings. My thinking is that the bushing can only squeak if it has a large smooth surface in contact with the bar. I noticed that H&R bushings have some sort of weave on the inner surface of their bushings, I would assume for the same reason. YMMV however. |
i think it's not that much i got one |
Originally Posted by P40vic Here's a technique I read about that some off-roaders use with poly bushings. Rough up the inside of the bushing with some sandpaper (80 grit worked for me) then install with whatever grease you choose. Worked great for my rear ES bushings. My thinking is that the bushing can only squeak if it has a large smooth surface in contact with the bar. I noticed that H&R bushings have some sort of weave on the inner surface of their bushings, I would assume for the same reason. YMMV however. THX |
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