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I recently replaced the head gasket.But still no start.You can hear the engine sounding like its getting compression.Sorta like a steam engine when trying to crank it but it will not start up.I can also smell a little bit of gas when trying to start it.The fuel line are connected the injectors are in pretty good.Not sure what else it could be.

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Was it starting and running well before head gasket replacement?
Did you follow FSM (service manual) during head gasket replacement?
Did you bring the head to a machine shop? If so, what all did they do to it?

From your description it sounds like air (compression) is being pushed out.
Spark plugs torqued to spec? All vacuum lines connected? Did you have the valve stems seals replaced if and when the cylinder head was at the machine shop? Bled air out of coolant per FSM? Do a compression test dry and wet.

Did you try spraying starter fluid in the throttle body?
Try pressing gas pedal to floor for seconds with key in the second position.. then release gas pedal and try starting.

Air, fuel and spark.

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before the head gasket replacement it started and i went to the store.Got ready to leave it wouldn't crank back up.I knew the head gasket was blown pretty bad.Took the head to the machine shop.They told me the whole head needed to be rebuilt.So i just bought a new one.Put it on and it still wouldn't start.I have pressure in the fuel line when i went to dis connet it.Fuel shot everywhere.I also have spark at the wires.I haven't tried starter fluid.My battery died from the cold weather also.So i have been jumping it off everytime i go to try and start it until the battery dies back down from trying to crank it.Sometimes it spins over fast when the battery is charged.But when it's drained it's a lag

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Compression test?

Timing correct: Cam-crank/timing belt?

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i haven't done a compression test yet I'm going to Monday.What should be the compression for the cylinders.The Timing Is correct number one piston is at TDC and the cam sprocket is lined up with the notch

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OP.. Your prior post as reference: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...placement.html
You purchased a completely rebuilt head that has new valves, stem seals, resurfaced and installed it yourself ?

Before the old cylinder head's valves bent was there jumped teeth or improper timing belt change done on it that may have caused the valves to bend? Did you replace the timing belt for the (new) rebuilt head or just reuse the timing belt?

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I purchased a completely rebuilt head and the machine shop resurfaced.I installed it.With the old head i looked before i took it off and everything was still in time.But i did replace the belt with the head and everything lines up.I guess I just need to do a compression test.

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What about the prior head/bent valves.. you said (other post) the timing belt did not snap or fall off so, did it jump teeth? What I am saying is are you sure your mechanical timing is correct? Because, with the rebuilt head you just installed if, you just set it at TDC and slipped the timing belt off without correcting the possible timing issue that may have caused the valves to bend prior.. then you're most likely facing the same scenario with the newly installed rebuilt head. Refer to your prior (linked) post Ezone states: "Ouch. Was it still correctly timed when you took it apart?
Did you rotate cam or crank after removing the timing belt?"

Also, I'll ask again did you do a recent timing belt change to the old head prior to the valves bending? I am not trying to put you on the spot ..just trying to get a proper history because whithout it we may not be able to properly help.

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yes i put a new belt on and tensioner on and spring.Put the number one piston at TDC and lined the cam sprocket up with the notch on the head and then slipped the belt on and tighten the spring.It's fine i'm just trying to get her running lol

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did a compression test only getting 45psi in each cylinder

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All 4 read the same?

If those numbers are even remotely accurate, you have a serious problem.


I'd recheck all aspects of timing, because anything that affects the cam-crank relationship can result in low compression.
Even making sure the gears are correctly aligned on the crankshaft (key missing?) and cam gear is properly installed and aligned on the cam, and then the timing belt install.

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yes they all are putting out the same reading.The crankshaft key I'll have to recheck the timing.With that being said if the timing is off a hair could that of possibly bent some valves

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I'm going to go back and check the timing is there a timing mark on the crankshaft like it is on the camshaft. I put the number one piston at top dead center.

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Just a few teeth off, probably not.

Several teeth, yes.

If anything went sour during assembly, yes.

There are always a few valves open, it's easy to damage them--- so if you set the head down on the engine wrong ....or on the workbench or floor during your work, any open valves could have been damaged.

If you spun the crankshaft around and any pistons went to the top where any valves were open, that tends to flatten out any open valves.

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if I pull the head off will I need a new head gasket the one I just put on is brand new and it doesn't have any miles or anything. Also is there a way to check for bent valves myself. If the timing is off its off by just a little.I set the number 1 piston up and and lined the sprocket up good as I could.Ive done a head gasket job on one of these cars before set the timing got it back together and it fired right up.

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Have you rechecked now that you know the compression is far too low?

Sure, but you check for valve sealing ability, using a leakdown test.

I'd sure be darn sure it needs to come apart before taking it all apart again. I hate extra work, I'm damn lazy.

Technically it needs to be replaced.

If you want to try reusing, that's up to you.
I've done it once or twice out of necessity and got lucky.


How's the valve clearance?
Did you check and adjust them during assembly?

Bent valves would suddenly have a whole bunch of excessive clearance.

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I haven't rechecked since the low compression ratio. I didn't adjust them during assembly.It doesn't even have resistance when turning the crank with a regular socket.It spins easy like it has no spark plugs in it.Im thinking of just buying a brand new head? and a graphite head gasket?http://i65.tinypic.com/1z5lw5u.jpg

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I can't see your timing marks in your pic.

Check timing.

Check valve clearances and adjust if necessary. Tight valves can cause low compression readings.


Valves are usually cheaper than a cylinder head.
If you don't figure out what went wrong, a new head might suffer the same fate too?

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I'm going to check all of that out. thanks