Valves leaking air into intake manifold. Nevermind, no text. ^_^ I did a leak-down test on TDC exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke. *facepalm* |
Re: Valves leaking air into intake manifold.
Originally Posted by Cleft_Asunder
(Post 4671042)
Nevermind, no text. ^_^ I did a leak-down test on TDC exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke. *facepalm* Well at least you don't have any issues with it lol |
Re: Valves leaking air into intake manifold.
Originally Posted by OneJzSupra
(Post 4671047)
:_doh: Well at least you don't have any issues with it lol So I adjusted the clearance to maximum allowable so that I can clean the valves through hard driving, allowing them an opportunity to seat in. (.009/.011) The car is already idling properly, which it wasn't before. After about 2 weeks of hard driving, I will do another valve job and put them back to minumum spec. (007/.009) Yeah, nothing serious. At 165k I've got really good compression: 160 160 155 155 |
Re: Valves leaking air into intake manifold. I'm curious why you are setting them at the minimum. I would think the increased chance chance of burning a valve wouldn't be worth it. |
Re: Valves leaking air into intake manifold. I set Hondas valves to the loose end of the spec range because most of them tend to tighten over time and miles. They aren't noisy when I do it, and it allows more time and miles before they need adjusted again. Loose valves might be just noisy. Tight valves are quiet..... BUT too tight can also lead to P0172 rich codes and burned valves. |
Re: Valves leaking air into intake manifold.
Originally Posted by ezone
(Post 4671103)
I set Hondas valves to the loose end of the spec range because most of them tend to tighten over time and miles. They aren't noisy when I do it, and it allows more time and miles before they need adjusted again. Loose valves might be just noisy. Tight valves are quiet..... BUT too tight can also lead to P0172 rich codes and burned valves. |
Re: Valves leaking air into intake manifold.
Originally Posted by OneJzSupra
(Post 4671124)
What are some of the signs that lead to needing a valve adjustment? Symptoms of tight valve issues can vary, depending on the severity of the condition. |
Re: Valves leaking air into intake manifold.
Originally Posted by OneJzSupra
(Post 4671124)
What are some of the signs that lead to needing a valve adjustment? Tight valves caused excessive engine vibration in trucks like mine LOL. |
Re: Valves leaking air into intake manifold.
Originally Posted by pjb3
(Post 4671081)
I'm curious why you are setting them at the minimum. I would think the increased chance chance of burning a valve wouldn't be worth it. Any way, the reason I set them low is because the engine is significantly more responsive and tight. You can tell on these low HP engines. But you have to push the car hard before a valve job or you will not adjust properly. |
Re: Valves leaking air into intake manifold.
Originally Posted by Cleft_Asunder
(Post 4671551)
You're not going to burn a valve or get any of the issues ezone mentioned when you're adjusting to minimum specs. That's why honda says it's in spec, because there will be no issues there. |
Re: Valves leaking air into intake manifold.
Originally Posted by ezone
(Post 4671555)
Correct. Anywhere within the specified clearance adjustment range is still "in spec". And the torque on the nuts is very important. Don't hand-tighten. 13 ft. lbs. is the spec, and it's very tight for such little nuts because they will come loose if you torque lower due to the excessive movement and the oil on the threads. |
Re: Valves leaking air into intake manifold.
Originally Posted by Cleft_Asunder
(Post 4671601)
Ohhh, you were saying below minimum spec; getting it to as close to no clearance as you can. (like .001) Probably a bad idea. ^_^ I adjust to the loose end of the specs simply because so many of the engines tend to tighten the valves as they wear. That hopefully allows more miles between needing adjustments. Any way, the reason I set them low is because the engine is significantly more responsive and tight. You can tell on these low HP engines. (My average dealership customers don't employ the butt-dyno.) And the torque on the nuts is very important. Don't hand-tighten. 13 ft. lbs. is the spec, and it's very tight for such little nuts because they will come loose if you torque lower due to the excessive movement and the oil on the threads. Everyone doing this should look up the correct specs for their particular engine before the job begins. "Too loose is too loose, and too tight can be too loose too." |
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