Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
 

Since we seem to have plenty of threads on check engine light issues, SRS light issues and ABS light issues, I thought I would make this thread to give you the rundown on what you need to do if any one of those lights comes on. This way we can cut down on all the threads started about what to do if the light comes on.

Check Engine Light: If the check engine light comes on in your vehicle and stays on, then there is a problem with your car and the ECU recognizes the problem and sets the check engine light on and stores a trouble code in the ECU. Now dont freak out if the light comes on. Alot of times the car will still run like normal, and other times it might run rough or different then normal. If you are still in warranty, take it to the dealer and they will fix it for you for free, that is if you dont have a deductable or anything. Now if you are out of warranty and dont want to spend all the money that the dealer charges or auto shop, you can go to any autozone (if there is one in your area) and they will check the code for you for free. Now dont let them start telling you what part you need to replace once they give you the code, most places assume that if you have a check engine light on and the code is for a 02 sensor circuit high, that your o2 sensor is bad. Now what happens if you replace it and the light still stays on. You are going to complain and autozone will say sorry. SO dont let that happen, you need to run the diagnostics for that code and see what the problem is. There are others things that could be wrong. You could have an ECU issue, a problem with wiring (short, open, or bad grounds, etc...), or a bad relay or fuse. And running the diagnostics will point you in the direction of the problem. Here is the link to the list of codes that you could possibly get:

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/s...ht=OBD+2+codes

(WHEN VIEWING THE LIST OF OBD 2 CODES IN THAT THREAD, GO TO POST NUMBER 9 AND USE THAT LIST, THE FIRST POST WITH THE LIST DOESNT FULLY CORRESPOND WITH THE CODES IN THE SERVICE MANAUL, BASICALLY THE DESCRIPTION OF THOSE CODES DIFFER FROM WHAT THE SERVICE MANAUL SAYS, SO USE THE SECOND LIST OF OBD 2 CODES).

Now having the manaul will help you in figuring out the true problem, and to run the diagnostics for that code.

Now to get the light to go off after you have fixed the problem, just pull the #6 fuse in the under hood fuse box for 10-20 seconds, put it back in and start the car. that will reset the ECU. Now if the light comes back on, then you didnt fix the problem.

Now if your check engine light happens to come on after you filled up with gas, then check your gas cap. Leaving it loose or off will cause the light to come on. Just tighten the cap and reset the ECU described above. If it doesnt go off, then find out the code and go from there.

Now if the car doesnt run like normal and the check engine light comes on, most likely the problem relates to why the check engine light is on.


SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) Light: If your SRS light comes on for any reason, then there is a problem with the SRS system. And when that light comes on, the SRS system will be disabled untill the problem is fixed and light is off. Now you cant go to autozone for them to check this code, it has to be checked by a dealer or any auto shop. The regular OBD 2 scanners cant check for SRS codes unless otherwise specified.

Now pulling the battery cable wont reset the light either.

Now if you happened to remove your front seats for any reason and didnt disconnect the battery before you pulled the connecters to the SRS module and now your SRS light is on, here is the link to the DIY to reset the light, that is if there are actually no problems with the SRS system:

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/s...d.php?t=155251


ABS (Anti-Lock Braking System) Light: If your ABS light comes on for any reason, then there is a problem with your ABS system. And if the light comes on, your ABS system will be disabled untill you fix the problem and the light is off. Now just like the SRS light, this has to be checked by either a dealer or auto shop. Most OBD 2 scanners wont check ABS codes. So unless you have a scanner for ABS trouble codes, best bet is spending the money to get it fixed.

Most of the time, problems that occur with the ABS light being on are the wheel speed sensors. Other times it is wiring problems, or the occasional problem with the ABS modulator, but ABS light issues are just like SRS light issues.



I hope this thread answers alot of questions that alot of you had. If anyone has anything to add, to hesitate to add it.

Good post :tup:

Maybe we should merge the mant. required light in to this one too?

^ yes, i would most definately merge it in here as well. Good thread man

injen

Good stuff

If You Are Having Car Problems And Your Check Engine Light Is On, Please Read This!!!
 

No this is not another thread on how to turn the check engine light off, but I have another issue to address.

Ok I had to make this thread to shed some light to people.

I have seen several threads during the cource of my time on 7thgen where people are having major issues with there car whether it be idle problems, tranny problems, or whatever and they dont know what to do or whats causing it. then come to find out that there check engine light is on.

Well, lets go over something here.

A car runs off of inputs which are sensors. Now those sensors send information to the ECU (basically send signals to the ECU) and based on those signals recieved at the ECU will determine what the ECU will send to various outputs which are actuators, solenoids, etc... and that is what runs your car

Now if your car runs good, then the ECU sees the right signals and sends info to other outputs and the car runs fine.

Now lets just say (I was use an example that I gave another member a few days ago) that you wake up one morning and get in your car and start driving around and after 5 minutes, black smoke is pouring out of your exhaust, you are getting really crappy gas mileage on your 1000 mile trip and have to fill up every 100 miles or so, and the car barely runs, it boggs down and even stalls out every once and awhile. And has problems starting. And your check engine light is on.

the first thing that people will do is wonder what the hell is wrong with there car. And the first thing they do is overlook the check engine light and start doing everything possible to fix it. Replace air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition coils, run higher octane gas, whatever so they dont have to take it in to the dealer and have to pay too much money.

Well back to the scenerio, after relacing all of these items, the car still runs like it did before and they give up and take it to the dealer. A few days later you get the car back with a brand new o2 sensor, no check engine light and the car runs like new again and you have a $40 bill for a new o2 sensor. and you are wondering what the hell? You just got done spending over $200 to try and fix it when a $40 part was the cause

Well now you ask how did my o2 sensor cause all of those problems. Well lets take a look. A o2 sensors job is to measure the amount of oxygen in the air before it goes to the cat converter. And based on that reading, the o2 sensor will send a signal to the ECU and based on that signal, the ECU will add or reduce fuel to the engine. Now if that sensor happened to fail and read extreme lean all of the time, the o2 sensor will think there is too much oxygen coming out and will instruct the ECU to dump the engine with fuel to compensate the over lean condition even though your engine is running fine. Now you are running extremely rich and have too much fuel entering the combustion chamber to mix with the air coming in resulting in the black smoke out the exhaust, bad fuel mileage, and stalling. All of these because one sensor sent a false signal to the ECU.

The point I am trying to make with this is if your car is running like crap, your tranny stopped shifting, your car has crappy fuel mileage, whatever and your check engine light is on, dont start throwing parts at the car to try and fix it, find out why the check engine light is on. I have seen people go to the extreme when there tranny fails and the check engine light is on and they replace the tranny cause they think its shot when all that was wrong was a bad sensor. which was a $20 part.

This goes for any other issues to. If your car doesnt start, a bad crankshaft positiom sensor not sending a signal to the PCM to let it know which cylinder to fire. That will cause a no start condition and throw your check engine light on.

Again I made this thread to let everyone know if your car is causing you problems and the check engine light is on to diagnosis that first because usually that is the cause of the major problem you are having. I am just annoyed on how many threads I see daily where people overlook there check engine light.


I am not here to try and explain to you how a car works or try and sound like the smartest person around, I am simply here to help everyone. I love working on cars and I hate when I see people not use common sense when trying to find out what is wrong with there car.

Good post!!!

For all those that go get the code read, go here to check what it means:http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=182026

I can't imagine not finding out first why the check engine light is on!

Mine came on and I assumed it was the o2 sensor... my father in law has a computer to hook up and read the codes from the car. I brought it to him and it actually was the EGR valve! Glad I didn't go buy a $60 O2 sensor. Instead I needed a $150 EGR valve and gasket!

loved this thread + the one about the maintnece required light, I had my SRS, Maint Required, AND check engine light on, got them all to go away in under 5 minutes and for free thanks to you guys!! ;)

the reason why the light is on is because you said you dont have a actually converter in there correct? if there is no catalyst material in there, the light will come on because the secondary o2 sensor is signaling the ecu that there is no cat. also the placement of the sensor in the converter also has an effect. but if the cat converter you purhcased is just a "resonator pipe" then it will stay on. you can get an o2 simulator, but it just turns the light off. search up on it, there are plenty of threads.

Thanks
 

Thanks for the tip -Although I read into those more and my car would not pass Echeck. I just ordered the stock cat and it shut the light right off. The only aftermarket one I have seen for my car was made by randomtechnology and costed way too much.

Check here

Also, try googling first. It was the first hit that came up on google when I searched for your problem.

excellent....answered my question about the SRS light b4 i could ask it!


high 5 !

take it to a different shop. if the check engine light is on, there will be DTC's stored in the ecu. the jerking is the result of why the light is on.

the link for the srs light isn't working for me, i dunno if its my computer or what, but it keeps saying page not found

Here are the instructions for the SRS light Reset.

1. There is a yellow plug under the dash plugged into the fuse panel. It has two wires going into it. Take that plug out, place a jumper wire (or paperclip) into the two holes to short the wires.

2. Turn the ignition key to the “ON” (II) position. The SRS light will go off. Within 4 seconds unplug one side of the jumper wire.

3. When the SRS light comes back on plug the jumper wire back in within 4 seconds the light will blink twice and go out.

4. Unplug the jumper and turn the ignition key off. Wait 15 seconds, and then start your car.

The memory will be reset. Replace the plug and you're done. You may have to try it a few times but it does work when you do it right.

If you have an actual problem with your SRS system the light will just come back on so then you need to have it looked at.

For links that do not work.
Copy then paste them in the URL bar then replace "WWW.7thgencivic.com" with "www.civicforums.com". The links will work again.

awesome, thanks for the reply. i will try that...when i have the time, lol.

Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
 

damn..where have i been....gonna have to give this a try tomorrow

Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
 

i insatalled 2 new sparco seats and i disconnected the connectors to the srs module from the factor seats and i was wondering if you guys could suggest how to get the srs light off thanks

Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
 

Dude, it tells you how in the first post... after the check engine, but before the ABS paragraph... geeze, you searched the forum, found the thread, but didnt read it? Man... But in all seriousness.... scroll up to find your answer, and welcome to the board.

Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
 

Figured I'd add this info.

If your "Side Airbag Off" light goes on and off, while driving, with no one sitting in the passenger seat, this pertains to the OPDS (occupant position detection system) module and sensor in the seat. There are numerous threads on here regarding this issues, which Honda acknowledges is due to a faulty OPDS module.

This will be covered under warranty, if it is determined that the unit is bad. The issue is addressed in Honda service bulletin 02-054, and a number of threads on here. Link to service bulletin. However, that bulletin addresses only 01-02 Civics. Having just spoken with American Honda customer service, it seems there is another SB, # 06-009, that "may" cover additional years of 7th gen civics having the issue with the "side airbag off" light coming on intermittently. You may want to cite this bulletin number when trying to get Honda to fix this issue. Hope this helps.

Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
 

excellent post! much props for the valuable info!

Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
 

i would see if theres any engine code in the computer.

Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
 

Hello all,

I just reset Jane's SRS (01 Civic) and got the light thats been on for a year or so to go out. I had pulled the seats 2 years ago and that post saved me posterior from a financial run around. Thanks much.

Oh yeah I used 2 little bread board connectors to hook into the MES and then extended that with 2 aligator clips.

Worked great once I reconnected the under-seat wiring...

Scott

Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
 

How to Check the ABS and SRS error codes YOUR SELF WITH OUT A COMUTER

The ABS light could be on due to various reasons, Best way to find out what is wron is to Get the ABS error code from the ECU and check it with the error code list for ABS errors.
There are two ways to find the error code
First you can attach a ABS scanner to the diagnostic socket, which is located near the driver.
Or you can check it yourself by connecting the pin 4 with the pin 9 of the diagnostic socket. Here is a video explaining the procedure

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIBjIr9a42w

then check your code with honda specific abs codes

94-97 ABS CODES (thanks to JimBlake):

1 - ABS pump motor over-run
1 2 ABS pump motor
1 3 high pressure leakage
1 4 pressure switch
1 8 high pressure system
2 1 parking brake
3 1 pulser RF
3 2 pulser LF
3 4 pulser RR
3 8 pulser LR
3 12 different diameter tires
4 1 wheel sensor RF
4 2 wheel sensor LF
4 4 wheel sensor RR
4 8 wheel sensor LR
5 - rear wheel lock - R/L
5 4 rear wheel lock - R
5 8 rear wheel lock - L
6 - fail-safe relay - F/R
6 1 fail-safe relay - F
6 4 fail-safe relay - R
7 1 solenoid - RF
7 2 solenoid - LF
7 4 solenoid - R
8 1 ABS function
8 2 CPU comparison
8 4 IC self-check

There's NO long flashes, it's all short flashes with short & long pauses in between.

Beginning in '98 there's a whole different ABS system, with a different list of codes.

98+ CODES (thanks to 2000GSRT)

11 - wheel senor (open/short to body ground/short to power) FR
13 - wheel senor (open/short to body ground/short to power) FL
15 - wheel senor (open/short to body ground/short to power) RR
17 - wheel senor (open/short to body ground/short to power) RL
12 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) FR
14 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) FL
16 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) RR
18 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) RL
21 - pulser FR
22 - pulser FL
23 - pulser RR
24 - pulser RL
31 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) FR-IN
32 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) FR-OUT
33 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) FL-IN
34 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) FL-OUT
35 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RR-IN
36 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RR-OUT
37 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RL-IN
38 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RL-OUT
41 - wheel lock FR
42 - wheel lock FL
43 - wheel lock RR
44 - wheel lock RL
51 - motor lock
52 - motor stuck OFF
53 - motor stuck ON
54 - fail-safe relay
61 - ignition voltage
62 - ignition voltage
71 - different diameter tire
81 - central processing unti (CPU)

Re: Is your Check Engine Light, SRS Light, Or ABS Light On? If so, Please Read
 

This site helped me with my faulty airbag Cartipsntricks.com. Bypass faulty air bags or seatbelt switch with resistor tutorial and video. Also, srs rest, super easy.(Works every time).:rockon:

Re: If You Are Having Car Problems And Your Check Engine Light Is On, Please Read Thi
 

ecu dudethe key light is def a sign that there is an ecu problem mine only comes on whn i turn the ting off (it's a reminder that the key is still in the ignition) so yah, big expensive problemo for you man, cuse the data link isn't connected it'd say it was the ecu or the harness is kaput for the connection, which i doubt, it's realy hard to say hat if you got the harness to run the car but the ecu connection is poopy, so i-d have your ecu checked and if it's good check your obdII port wires best of luck

Re: If You Are Having Car Problems And Your Check Engine Light Is On, Please Read Thi
 

Streetglower, thanks for the awesome info.

88Wag

Re: If You Are Having Car Problems And Your Check Engine Light Is On, Please Read Thi
 

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instead of just posting, why not check the link i posted? ...
There is a difference when a thread says post questions or when a thread says please read this...

Re: If You Are Having Car Problems And Your Check Engine Light Is On, Please Read Thi
 

my throttle sensor is going cause my engine light is on. do you kfnow were i can get one whitout going to the dealer?