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-   -   2000 civic d16y7 overheating confusion (https://www.civicforums.com/forums/217-mechanical-problems-vehicle-issues-fix-forum/360369-2000-civic-d16y7-overheating-confusion.html)

armysniper18 06-29-2014 04:30 AM

2000 civic d16y7 overheating confusion
 
hey ok this damn car still is confusing me... ok so i got the head gasket job done got a felpro headgasket smothered it in copper spray and machined the head .. brand new radiator, water pump, timing belt, alternator, thermastat (although idk if this was oem or not), and basically everything under the sun besides a new transmission and starter. so im driving boom car overheats again.. ok soo heres what i did:

-first i tried re-burping the system heater turn nob to high fan off.. also noticed no heat was coming out after a solid 30+ minutes of car on idle and temp gauge riased turned on fan (not ac part still no heat from vents even turned on ac and no heat thru vents, i did this at midnight soo def cold outside) did this in driveway with front of car raised.. (maybe heater core)?

-replaced the engine temperature sensor, the coolant temp sensor, and fan switch sensor .. checked the relays and all was good and the overheating happens during hottest part of day and sometimes in the evening (i live in california so temps are hotter then other places) and also when at idle. both top and bottom hoses are hot, fan comes on although idk if they are coming on correctly tho i would think it is due to replacing all 3 sensors.. im hella confused and cant figure this out..

*will get oem thermostat when i get paid after july 4th.*

can it be headgasket again? it cant possibly be another blown headgasket right? what the hell could be wrong with it? why does it still shoot up to red in temp but then comes back down when driving or on hot days shoots up a little hot but then comes back down i dont understand? it happens for sure when going uphil or some sort of load on it.. doesnt matter if ac is on or not.. please answer this is beginning to piss me off ive dumped way to much money into this car.. some one anyones help would be appreciated..

-thanks, armysniper18

ezone 06-29-2014 08:02 AM

Re: 2000 civic d16y7 overheating confusion
 

smothered it in copper spray
Is this step in the instructions?

If you think the head gasket isn't sealing, have you rechecked for combustion leakage into the cooling system yet?


no heat from vents
I'd think this is important. Assuming the temperature controls inside the dash still work ok, I'd think you have a water flow problem through the heater core, either due to trapped air OR a physical blockage.


Does the heater core and hoses need to be burped manually? It's possible. Air can stay trapped in the high spots of the system hoses. (I can't see what yours looks like...I know the 5th gens were really bad about trapping air in the heater circuit though.)
I've had some that refused to burp by running the engine.
I've had to take off or loosen hoses and manipulate them to get air bubbles worked through, and there have been some that I've had to force water through (garden hose) to purge the air.





Feel the heater hoses after the engine is up to operating temp.
Are they both very hot where they enter the firewall?
Are they different temperatures?



Does the heater water valve open and close as the HVAC controls are moved from cold to hot?
The lever on the heater valve should move roughly 90 degrees between opened and closed.
The cable on it is moved by the blend door linkages on the heater housing in the dash.
The valve inside should open and close to block or allow water flow as the lever is turned.
Sometimes these can break off at the shaft so the lever still LOOKS like it's working but it isn't really connected to anything on the inside of the valve.

armysniper18 06-29-2014 11:44 AM

Re: 2000 civic d16y7 overheating confusion
 

Originally Posted by ezone (Post 4666503)
Is this step in the instructions?

If you think the head gasket isn't sealing, have you rechecked for combustion leakage into the cooling system yet?

I'd think this is important. Assuming the temperature controls inside the dash still work ok, I'd think you have a water flow problem through the heater core, either due to trapped air OR a physical blockage.


Does the heater core and hoses need to be burped manually? It's possible. Air can stay trapped in the high spots of the system hoses. (I can't see what yours looks like...I know the 5th gens were really bad about trapping air in the heater circuit though.)
I've had some that refused to burp by running the engine.
I've had to take off or loosen hoses and manipulate them to get air bubbles worked through, and there have been some that I've had to force water through (garden hose) to purge the air.





Feel the heater hoses after the engine is up to operating temp.
Are they both very hot where they enter the firewall?
Are they different temperatures?



Does the heater water valve open and close as the HVAC controls are moved from cold to hot?
The lever on the heater valve should move roughly 90 degrees between opened and closed.
The cable on it is moved by the blend door linkages on the heater housing in the dash.
The valve inside should open and close to block or allow water flow as the lever is turned.
Sometimes these can break off at the shaft so the lever still LOOKS like it's working but it isn't really connected to anything on the inside of the valve.


thanks for the reply.. ok..

so when i move the turn nob i can hear the buzzing of what seem like the lever is turning.. however i realy dont understand or know how to check the heator core because i really do not know exactly where it is and what hoses there are.. however i just assumed that it may be that due to it not getting hot and all the forums say to turn the nob when u burb it..

so if u could show me or tell me which ones and how to check that based on ur instructions that would help..

i havnt done any combustion things cuz i dont have the tools or the money to take it someone to have them do that.. thats the downside:/

but whats wierd is i did get hear during the day.. but that one time during the night i didnt.. but when it was hot i did get heat ...

ezone 06-29-2014 12:45 PM

Re: 2000 civic d16y7 overheating confusion
 
Heater hoses: they go between the engine and the firewall, carry hot antifreeze to the heater core....there's a valve in one hose to shut off water flow.

Something like this
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Ho...valvehonda.png

...I'm trying to understand....
You DO have heat sometimes, but not others?


Get the engine fully warmed up.
Let it idle.
Turn temp on hot and fan on full blast and set to dash vents.
Got great heat? Burn your hand if you hold it there too long?
Wait 2 minutes.
Does it still have great heat?

armysniper18 06-29-2014 03:45 PM

Re: 2000 civic d16y7 overheating confusion
 

Originally Posted by ezone (Post 4666515)
Heater hoses: they go between the engine and the firewall, carry hot antifreeze to the heater core....there's a valve in one hose to shut off water flow.

Something like this
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Ho...valvehonda.png

...I'm trying to understand....
You DO have heat sometimes, but not others?


Get the engine fully warmed up.
Let it idle.
Turn temp on hot and fan on full blast and set to dash vents.
Got great heat? Burn your hand if you hold it there too long?
Wait 2 minutes.
Does it still have great heat?



yes i do have heat sometimes ok forgive me for my ignorance but what donu mean by dash vents? do you mean have it pointed at the face on the selector switch or is there something i should also have on.. turn the ac on or off? and when i bleed it i always use the ac button not the car button with the recycle symbol.. i feel dumb but what do u mean as the dash vents what vents should i have and yes i do have heat sometimes but it was weird last night with ac button on car obv hot but no heat..


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