kick panel Fabrication
 

So, my Sixoctave's rolled in from CDT Audio the other day. This begins the process of Kick Panel fabrication. So, my Q-series will get to hang around long enough for me to get these kicks going, but after that they are taking a vacation. Anyway, I intend to linger around the planning stage for a while considering there are so many variables I'm unsure of in this project. Some of the things I need to iron out include
-What to use for grills
-Whether to relocate the hood release or build around it.
-What style bezel (I'm leaning toward seperate and round, like the picture indicates.)

The planning stages.

I'm thinking about using the grille from the 6.5 to go over the 4" and then mounting the tweeter at the same height. The 4" didin't come with grilles and I prefer the seperate, round look over a 1-piece custom grille.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y15...ckPlanning.jpg

well, keep us updated, but I just can't imagine them sounding better than the Qs. As you know, I have the premiums, and I was blown away by the sound quality. I can only imagine how good the Q series are. I know its fun trying new stuff out though, so I don't blame you. Good luck with the project.

Cut that 6.5 grille down... or use grill cloth and create your own grilles.

^^^^^ Thought about doing both, but I'm not sure. I wanna see how it looks first, When I tried an old 4" grill in there, it looked kinda Goofy.

You hit the nail on the head. I don't really have expectation set for it to blow my Qs away (although the increase in mid-bass will be refreshing) but I just wanted to check out this new line and expermiment a bit with kick panels in my car.

How about a 5 1/4 grill with matching tweeter grill?
If it's hard to tell from the picture, the grille is completely flush.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y15...ickFleeced.jpg

looks hot like usual 187 :)

i wish i knew enough about components to do this :(

looks good!

id build around the latch, you can see the pics of my diy to see how I did it that time, and it turned out pretty well in that area. if you strengthen the wrap around mightily with well laminated fiberglass (no bubbles and no globs of resin with no glass) then you should need minimal bondo and entirely for cosmetic purposes.

if you have access to small amounts of carbon, that would be even better around that area. the only problem with the latch is that theres not much clearance. I think it can be done though, to get that extension up high without taking up the thickness to block the latch.

only other thing is that I like how the grills look, and it solves the problem of foothappy passengers, but I would leave open the ability to position the tweet individually. itll give you more command over your stage positions and height. If you have to dim the drivers side tweet by angling it off axis, you can respond in kind to the passenger tweet to equilize the top end rolloff without screwing with the mid imaging characteristics. as an example.

and if you are gona paint, id take the time to cut the curves on that baffle PERFECT. itll show through, otherwise :)

so what equipment are you running? are you coupling the sixoctave set with a midbass driver, or is it an addition on a component set already? whats the deal?

I'm gonna try different things an see around the latch. Most likely I think I may keep part of the factory kick in place as a frame utilizing the part that goes around the latch.

I'm coupling the sixoctaves with an existing set of CL-61As which I never installed. The sixoctaves I went for are the CL series as well and, for an experiment, you really can't beat the $99 price tag :)

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna vinyl when i am done and I'll be the usual stickler for smooth finishes that I can't help being. I'm not sure I'll make much progress this week, but I'll keep posting as I do.