Quick valve clearance question.
 

In regards to the clearance range, I don't know if I should set it to the lowest value or the highest on intake or exhaust. Any recommendations? Essentially I want to make it so that the clearance doesn't go 'out of spec' sooner.

intake .18-.22mm
Exhaust .23-.27mm

I would set it more in the middle. or toward the lower of the number. Over time the clearances will increase, so setting it lower should help. If it was on my car I would set it at .20 for the intake and .25 for the exhaust.

Thank you. Regarding the camshaft pulley (where the timing belt rests), I'm having a hard time moving it. It doesn't want to budge. What's the trick? I guess I'm supposed to use the bolt in the center, but I'm worried it will be altered. I'm trying to align the TDC markings.

Are you trying to put the timing belt on and line it up?? Or are you trying to turn the motor over to check the valve clearances??? If you are trying to turn the whole motor over to check valve clearance dont do it by the cam. If you are just lining up the belts you can back off the valve adjusters to make it easier to turn and turn it over clockwise till its where you need it(counter clockwise may back off on the bolt). If you are trying to turn the whole motor over to do a valve adjustment with the belt on you should be able to pull the ECM fuse out of the underhood fuse box and have a friend tap the ignition to bump the motor over while you watch to get it where you need it . Its fuse number 6 its a 15A fuse. Dont do this if your timing belt is off or you WILL bend the valves. The reason you unplug the ECM fuse is to prevent your injectors from firing and tripping CELs from having stuff unplugged. You could also do this with the car off and one of those handheld starter buttons that just acts as a jumper for the starter.

Also if you are cranking the whole motor over it may help you to pop the spark plugs out so the compression doesnt screw you up. just dont let anything get in the holes.

just use a breaker bar and socket and turn the engine over from the crank. thats what the manaul recommends when doing the valve adjustments. whatever you do, dont remove the belt. There is a tensioner to remove the tension from the timing belt, but you dont even need to worry about that. besides you have to remove a bunch of things to get it off.

Now I suggest you take it into a shop. No offense, but you dont sound like you know what your doing. Misadjusting valves can damage your engine. Plus it helps to have the manaul when doing this.

Thanks all. I did the valves yesterday by turning the motor using the bolt behind the left wheel. Ticking is still there and I think it's becaue the actual valve arms have a leeway. That is, you can move the valve arm on the valve that you've got open up and down a bit. This is true for all the valves that are open, but hte ones that are closed are not able to move up and down. This must be why it's ticking, and therefore it can't be a problem.

Well I have a 98 honda manual, this forum, and I'm mechanically experienced. I did the valves quite well thank you. :) If I don't know what I'm doing, I wont even tackle it.

well not to bust your balls but with all the experience that you say you have, you should know that the valve clearance will tighten up when the motor warms up. The noise you are hearing is more than likely the same noise pretty much every d17 has, because of the VTEC design. Put aftermarket valve springs in it and you will notice it even more.:tup: